To celebrate my milestone birthday this year, I knew it had to be something truly memorable to mark the occasion. After falling in love with Poland on recent trips to Wroclaw and Krakow, I was keen to see what the capital city Warsaw had to offer. There are plenty of luxury hotels in the city, but the absolute pinnacle of hospitality is Raffles Europejski Warsaw.
Not only is the iconic Europejski a true Polish landmark, but the hotel is significantly more attainable (as a special treat) than some Raffles properties that start at four figures per night. Since we were staying in Warsaw for five nights, we took time out from exploring to relax and fully immerse ourselves in the Raffles experience.
Location
Raffles Europejski Warsaw is located on the prestigious Royal Route, next to the Presidential Palace and the Polish National Opera. It also overlooks the Tomb of the Unknown Solider in Saski Gardens and is a short walk from the picturesque Old Town (a UNESCO World Heritage Site).
The hotel
Hotel Europejski was built by Italian-Polish architect Enrico Marconi and opened to much fanfare in 1857. It quickly became the place to stay and socialise and has famously hosted Marlene Dietrich, The Rolling Stones and the Kennedys. Most of the neo-Renaissance building was decimated during the Second World War and was subsequently rebuilt and turned into a restaurant. Following a major five-year reconstruction, it reopened as Raffles Europejski Warsaw in 2018.
The lobby
Despite the hotel’s grandeur, the entrance is discreet and fuss-free. The marble lobby is awash with vibrant colours and you’re immediately met with decorative touches like a neon sculpture, fresh flowers and ornate chandeliers.
Set designer Boris Kudlicka and Warsaw-based architects WWAA have created joyful interiors that celebrate Polish art and craftsmanship. In fact, the hotel boasts a collection of almost 500 works by 120 contemporary Polish artists.
Dining
Walking through the lobby promenade, you will find the Michelin-listed Europejski Grill and the signature Long Bar, home to the Warsaw Sling (a local spin on the famous Singapore Sling created at Raffles Singapore in 1915).
Also not to be missed is Lourse Warszawa, a bijou patisserie serving exquisite cakes, hand-painted chocolates, ice cream, biscuits and preserves. Raffles reimagined Swiss confectioner Laurent Lourse’s historic literary cafe (Fryderyk Chopin had been a regular), continuing its story as one of the best places for afternoon tea in Warsaw.
Shopping
At the other side of the lobby is the Europejski Boutiques luxury shopping gallery with Poland’s first Hermès store, alongside Brunello Cucinelli, HE Concept Store and Aston Martin.
Check-in
On arrival, our bags were swiftly taken care of and we were warmly greeted by the reception staff. We took a seat at the desk to check in and were offered a choice of two rooms – a Raffles Room on the second floor or a Deluxe Room on the pavillion side of the building. After taking a spin around both rooms, we were drawn to the Deluxe Room, as it had high ceilings and lots of daylight flooding in from the large windows.
The room
Our Deluxe Room was an absolute dream, designed in cool, neutral shades with sumptuous fabrics and beautiful parquet floors. The focal point of the room is the magnificent king-size bed with a statement headboard and Art Deco bedside lamps, custom-made linen and plush down bedding.
Room features include a large flatscreen TV, work desk with a Raffles writing set, a selection of books curated by the Art Collection Manager, Nespresso machine and kettle with teas, minibar and complimentary mineral water.
After going out for lunch and a stroll through the Old Town, we came back to a beautiful birthday cake with strawberries, fresh cream and delicate flowers from Lourse Warszawa. It was absolutely delicious and such a lovely surprise!
A 24-hour butler service is also included, however we didn’t require much assistance. Our butler did come to the room to oversee our room service order and helped us turn off the audio in the bathroom, so they’re clearly very attentive.
There was also a dedicated turndown service, preparing the room for sleeping with cotton mats and embroidered slippers by the bedside, drawn curtains, dimmed lighting and a refresh of the bathroom area.
The bathroom
We were also wowed by the Art Deco-style marble bathroom with a separate soaking tub (lavender bath salts included), powerful rainfall shower, double sink, underfloor heating, thick cotton towels and face cloths and plush bathrobes.
The bathroom products by exclusive French perfumer Blaise Mautin were also a joy to use, with subtle, harmonious notes of bergamot, petit grain, sweet orange and vetiver.
The spa
One of the reasons we chose Raffles Europejski Warsaw was its fabulous, award-winning spa, which is available to guests everyday. It’s one of the most luxurious, well-maintained spas I’ve ever visited with a serene ambiance and excellent facilites.
The spa has six treatment rooms and restorative treatments using products by Sisley and Aromatherapy Associates. The water circuit includes a heavenly endless upstream indoor pool, powerful sauna and steam room, tropical experience showers and ice fountain. There’s also a state-of-the-art gym, open 24-hours a day, spacious changing rooms and cosy relaxation rooms with bottles of still and sparkling water.
Room service
For the ultimate birthday indulgence, we ordered room service burgers and watched movies. After running around exploring the city’s restaurants every night, it felt like such a treat to slow down and chill out.
The Europejski black angus steak burger came with free-range bacon, burnt shallots, Polish Gouda and sour cucumbers in a brioche bun with a generous portion of hot, crispy French fries – definitely one of my favourite burgers ever.
Breakfast
After a blissful night’s sleep, we headed down to Europejski Grill for a delicious breakfast. The continental buffet had plenty of choice and was neatly presented with home-baked bread and viennoiserie (the best almond croissants I’ve ever tasted), cured meats and fish, artisanal cheese, sliced fruit, yoghurt and cereal.
The full Raffles Europejski Breakfast also includes a main dish and side to order – we went for organic Eggs Benedict and Eggs Royale with sides of avocado topped with dukkah.
There are no theatrics such as the live cooking stations and mimosa trolleys that you often find in five star hotels, but all of the food is high quality and locally sourced and there’s a welcome calmness to the dining room.
Check-out
When we managed to tear ourselves away from our cocoon to check out, we were very kindly given chilled bottles of water for the journey and a big box of hand-painted chocolates from Lourse Warszawa. What could be better than that?
Impressions
Raffles Europejski Warsaw is an incredibly beautiful hotel with superior amenities, however it’s the staff that really make it shine. I’ve never felt so welcome and valued in a hotel before and they made my birthday unforgettable with so many thoughtful touches. I promised to come back and I really meant it – there will always be something to celebrate!
For my birthday this year, I knew we had to do something memorable, so we spent a night at the iconic Raffles Europejski Warsaw. This historic 19th century hotel on the Royal Route is understated luxury at its best, but it’s the staff that really make your stay feel special. We had the chance to choose our own room and we went for a beautiful, light-filled room with high ceilings on the pavillion floor. The room was so spacious with a sumptuous bed and a stunning marble bathroom with Blaise Mautin toiletries. The afternoon was spent relaxing at the spa and pool and there was a surprise birthday cake from Lourse patisserie waiting in the room. That evening, we ordered room service burgers and fries (the best ever) and watched movies. Breakfast in Europejski Grill was excellent too with Eggs Benny to order, fresh juices and the most delicious almond croissants. At check-out, we were given bottles of water for the journey and a box of hand-painted chocolates. Raffles Warsaw really made our stay unforgettable and I would definitely book it again for future celebrations. #traveltiktok#warsaw#luxuryhotel#hoteltour#fivestarhotel#hotelbreakfast#hotelroom#travel
There’s nothing better than a city break to kick off the warmer months, so I was thrilled to be invited to explore the Polish city of Krakow with Jet2holidays. I fell in love with Poland on my first trip to Wroclaw and recently celebrated my birthday in Warsaw, so I was curious to see how Krakow would compare.
Krakow may be the second largest city in Poland but it is by far the most popular destination for travellers and it’s easy to see why – it simply has it all! Not only does the Polish zloty exchange rate make it ideal for cheap holidays, but this fascinating city is very walkable, modern, friendly and safe.
Dating back to the 7th century, Krakow is one of the oldest cities in Poland and was once the country’s capital. It was named the European Capital of Culture in 2000 and is a UNESCO City of Literature, so it has plenty to offer for a weekend break.
The flight
We chose flights from Newcastle Airport and the journey couldn’t have been easier, as we sailed through the newly-upgraded security area in just a few minutes (it was awarded Best Small Airport 2023 for a reason). The departure lounge was buzzing and jolly with mostly couples and groups of friends ready to board their flights to Krakow with Jet2. Boarding was remarkably quick and efficient and the plane seats were nice and comfortable, so the 2 hour 30 minutes flight time flew by.
Krakow Airport is easy to navigate and the best way to travel into the city is the airport train, which arrives at the Central Station in just 20 minutes. Uber and Wolt are also very cheap, convenient options.
The hotel
We stayed in the centre of Krakow for three nights and were booked into PURO Krakow Stare Miasto with Jet2holidays. This fabulous design hotel is conveniently located next to Central Station and the modern Galeria Krakowska shopping mall, plus there is a tram stop just on the doorstep.
PURO is a popular Polish boutique hotel group, known for its cool design aesthetic, tech focus and ‘home away from home’ social spaces. I’ve previously stayed at PURO hotels in Wroclaw and Warsaw and this one certainly didn’t disappoint (there’s also another PURO in the city’s Kazimierz neighbourhood).
Our Classic Room on the second floor was cosy and calm with retro wood panelling, plush red furnishings and large windows letting in plenty of natural daylight. The double bed was extremely comfortable with high quality linens and there was a large flat screen TV – perfect for crashing out after a long day of exploring.
The bathroom also had a powerful walk-in shower, fluffy towels and lovely, full-size bathroom products by Polish skincare brand Alba 1913. Everything in the room is operated by iPad, including lighting, temperature, calls to reception and housekeeping requests.
Each morning, we enjoyed a wonderful buffet breakfast in Hint restaurant with everything you could want to start the day well. I particularly liked the selection of dishes made fresh to order including avocado and poached egg on toast, a Croque Madame and blueberry porridge. There is also a free coffee machine in the lounge (a PURO signature), so you can enjoy a hot drink at any time, day or night.
Here are some of the best things to pack into a long weekend in Krakow…
Krakow Old Town
The historic centre of Krakow was established as a merchants’ town in the 13th century and holds UNESCO World Heritage status. It’s full of charm with cobbled streets, Cracovian street lamps, pastel-hued buildings and horse-drawn carriages.
At the heart of the Old Town is the impressive Rynek Glowny, one of the largest medieval market squares in Europe. Among the popular restaurants, pavement cafes and colourful historic houses, there are a number of monuments to look out for.
The Renaissance-era Cloth Hall was once the centre of commerce for travelling merchants and today you can still find interesting local products including Polish pottery, amber necklaces and woven textiles. The upper floor of the hall features the Sukiennice Museum, housing the largest permanent collection of 19th-century Polish painting and sculpture.
On the main square, you can also find St Mary’s Basilica, the Old Town Hall Tower and Rynek Underground Museum. Also, look out for Eros Bendato (known as ‘the head’), a striking bronze sculpture by Polish artist Igor Mitoraj (1944-2014).
Planty park
Planty park encircles the historic centre with 3km of urban greenery and benches to sit and watch the world go by. It reminded me of parts of New York’s Central Park and is the perfect spot to refuel over coffee and pastries.
Interesting sights along the way include the Barbican fortification, Krakow University’s Collegium Medicum, the baroque Juliusz Slowacki Theatre, idyllic water fountains and the Jadwiga and Jagiello monument.
Wawel Castle
Wawel Royal Castle sits majestically at the top of Wawel Hill, overlooking the Vistula River. The castle was originally built in the 11th century in the Gothic style and was later developed by King Casimir III the Great and extended around around the imposing Italian-styled courtyard.
The Renaissance palace is now a museum comprising five separate areas, including the State Rooms, Crown Treasury and Armoury, Royal Private Apartments, Lost Wawel and the Exhibition of Oriental Art. The museum features an extensive collection of Italian painting, ceramics, porcelain (look out for the playful pug vases), goldsmith’s work, clocks and armour.
You can also venture down into the Dragon’s Den, climb to the top of the Sandomierska Tower, visit the royal gardens or catch a live concert in the courtyard. There’s so much to see that you should plan to spend at least half a day here.
Wawel Castle is free to visit on Mondays from 10am to 4pm, however you need to pick up timed entry tickets for the areas you want to see on arrival at the ticket office.
Kazimierz
Kazimierz is Krakow’s historic Jewish quarter and from the 14th to the 19th century, it was an independent city of its own. It’s now a hotspot for cool restaurants, cafes and bars, however its cultural heritage remains present. Here, you can see the Old Synagogue (dating back to the 1400s), Hebrew wall murals, the Galicia Jewish Museum and listen to klezmer bands performing at the traditional Jewish restaurants lining picturesque Szeroka street.
Kazimierz is also home to bohemian Jozefa street filled with art galleries and cafes and Schindler’s List Passage, a small alleyway used as a filming location for Steven Spielberg’s Oscar-winning Schindler’s List.
Plac Nowy is the beating heart of Kazimierz with restaurants and bars lining the square. In the daytime, it’s home to quirky flea markets selling menorahs and vintage cameras and at night, it’s where everyone goes for late-night munchies.
Zapiekanka, a popular Polish version of a French bread pizza, is sold with a number of toppings from a former fish market building. You can also find enormous kebabs, shawarma and falafel smothered in hummus – a great cheap eat in Krakow.
Museum of Contemporary Art in Krakow MOCAK
Museum of Contemporary Art in Krakow MOCAK is a fantastic contemporary art gallery in the modern Zablocie district. It focusses on art from the last two decades, across all mediums, and the building itself (designed by Claudio Nardi) is quite spectacular.
We loved the Food in Art temporary exhibition with sculptures of golden junk food and patchwork apple cores as well as the Weaves exhibition with intricate woven maps of the world and transformed Persian carpets.
If you’re a guest at PURO Krakow Stare Miasto, you can pick up free tickets to MOCAK at reception – a perk not to be missed!
Manggha Museum of Japanese Art and Technology
Manggha Museum of Japanese Art and Technology celebrates the art and culture of Japan with an impressive permanent collection and interactive exhibitions. Opened in 1994 by Andrzej Wajda and Krystyna Zachwatowicz, Manggha was originally part of the National Museum in Krakow before being granted museum status in its own right.
This stunning building, designed by Japanese architect Arata Isozaki, is perched on the bank of the Vistula river and boasts great views over the city.
The current Background exhibition explores the world of manga, anime and video games with comic books and prints from animation company Studio Ghibli and video game designer Hideo Kojima. Hiroshige: A Journey into the Woodblock Print showcases the work of Japanese ukiyo-e master Utagawa Hiroshige (1797–1858), who left behind over 5,800 works. We had the chance to create our own woodblock prints on postcards, which made fun souvenirs.
It’s worth planning a visit around lunch or afternoon tea to try the excellent Cafe Manggha. We loved the Japanese teriyaki sets with steamed rice, miso soup, edamame, pickles and fresh fruit, washed down with a pot of hojicha roasted green tea and an iced matcha latte.
Krakow street food
Krakow has a fantastic food scene with everything from cheap and hearty street food and traditional Polish cuisine to hip neighbourhood spots and fine dining restaurants. Of course, a trip to Krakow wouldn’t be complete without trying some of the local street food delicacies.
Obwarzanek Krakowski
The famous obwarzanek Krakowski is an absolute must and can be found at bright blue carts around the city’s parks and main streets for a mere 2 zloty. What makes them so special? These golden, braided bread snacks look like a cross between a bagel and a pretzel (but are regarded as neither, so don’t make this faux pas) and are finished with salt, poppy or sesame seeds.
The obwarzanek dates back to the 1600s and was given PGI (Protected Geographic Indication) status in 2010, meaning that it is unique to the region and cannot be copied. They’re baked twice a day in the Malopolskie Province and only stay fresh for a few hours, so be sure to grab one right away.
Oscypek
Head to Krakow’s charming Maly Rynek (Little Market Square) and be dazzled by the stalls of tempting Polish street food. Here, you can try oscypek, a delicious smoked cheese made of salted sheep milk from the Tatra mountains. Enjoy them grilled and doused in cranberry sauce – the contrasting sweet, sour and smoky flavours really work.
You can also find enormous grilled Polish sausages and pork knuckles, home-made iced gingerbread and Polish sweets.
Paczki
If you love doughnuts, try paczki and be prepared to have your mind blown. Paczki dough is richer than regular doughnuts, making them lighter and more fluffy. Dobra Paczkarnia on central Florianska street offers paczki in an overwhelming number of fillings, finished with a choice of glaze or powdered sugar. I reccommend trying the chocolate rum and apple cinnamon flavours – you might even want to take a box for the flight home.
Judah Food Market
Judah Food Market in Kazimierz is a great spot for some tasty street food, especially when it’s sunny. Local food trucks offer bites such as zapiekanki, hot dogs, pierogis, loaded baked potatoes, gourmet burgers, chimney cakes and barista coffee.
Krakow restaurants
The Black Duck
For an indulgent Cracovian feast, look no further than Czarna Kaczka (The Black Duck) in the Old Town. As the name suggests, their speciality is roasted black duck, served in different ways, alongside traditional Polish dishes. We went big and ordered the whole roasted duck stuffed in Galician style, served with Silesian dumplings, roast potatoes, red cabbage and cranberries with both mushroom and blackcurrant sauces.
Our lovely waitress ceremoniously cut through the duck with scissors at the table and the red fruit stuffing tumbled out – it was absolutely epic. The duck was so tender and worked perfectly with the fluffy dumplings, tart fruits and creamy sauce. I would make a pilgrimage back to Krakow for the duck alone.
Bufet KRK
Bufet KRK in Kazimierz is one of Krakow’s hottest restaurants (for now, as least) and luckily we managed to score a table for lunch. It’s a new concept from Przemyslaw Klima, co-owner and head chef at two-Michelin-starred restaurant Bottiglieria 1881.
Bufet takes a modern approach to nostalgic childhood dishes, using high quality local produce. We started with golden, crunchy croquettes with pork cheek, Cheddar and kimchi mayo and refreshing chicory with nuts, Jura Bleu cheese and gooseberry.
They were followed by excellent Duroc pork schnitzel, burnt butter and capers and lamb sausage, green peas, mint and plum barbecue sauce, accompanied by some decadent French fries with truffle mayo and Parmesan.
Be sure to leave room for the heavenly Karpatka with rhubarb – it’s a must! The cooking and service was of a very high standard and I can see Bufet gaining Michelin Guide recognition in the near future.
Molam Thai Canteen & Bar
If you’re craving authentic South-east Asian flavours, head to Molam Thai Canteen & Bar, a lively eatery awarded with a Michelin Bib Gourmand. Inspired by Bangkok street food, Molam offers authentic sharing plates from all four regions of Thailand, alongside creative, aromatic cocktails.
We grazed on flavourful pad see ew (stir-fried rice noodles), grilled pork belly in Haeng Lae glaze. grilled chicken thigh with Nahm Jim Jaew dipping sauce and pik gai tod chilli wing with sweet fish sauce glaze. Everything we tried was deliciously rich and punchy, however it’s worth adding a salad to bring a touch of freshness.
Nolio Pop
On the first night, we hopped on the tram to try Nolio Pop, a modern pizzeria in lively Kazimierz. We had the most fantastic cacio e pepe fried pasta with Parmesan sauce and potato croquettes with smoked mozzarella and nduja mayo, followed by delicious, authentic Neapolitan-style pizzas topped with burrata, basil oil and salami.
Nolio Pop is open until 11pm/12am everyday and no reservations are needed, so it’s perfect if your flight arrives in the early evening.
Krakow is the perfect destination for an affordable, exciting city break and there’s so much to see and do around the city. I would love to go back and see the magic of the Christmas markets on the main square.
Have you visited Krakow on a city break? Where are your favourite places to visit?
Chérie City was a guest of Jet2holidays, however all thoughts and opinions are my own.
I recently explored Krakow with @jet2 and it’s definitely one of the prettiest cities for a long weekend break. Here are some great places to see: ?? The Old Town – for charming, cobbled streets and pastel-hued houses. Look out for the Main Square, Cloth Hall, Eros Bendato and Planty Park. ?? Kazimierz – the vibrant former Jewish quarter known for its buzzing restaurants and nightlife. ?? MOCAK Krakow – two floors of contemporary art in a spectacular building in arty Zablocie. ?? Maly Rynek – a picturesque square with traditional Polish street food including grilled oscypek, a smoked cheese with sheep milk from the mountains. ?? Wawel Castle – Krakow’s impressive Renaissance palace with art museums, state rooms and royal gardens (free to visit on Mondays). ?? Manggha Museum – a fantastic museum for Japanese arts and culture with a great cafe and views of the Vistula river. More about Krakow to come here… and on my blog post {ad}. #krakow#traveltiktok#travel#city#poland??#traveltok
Copenhagen has so many great places to eat, from leading Michelin-starred restaurants to artisan bakeries with the flakiest pastries, and you’ll definitely want to plan your city break around them. The standard of food and hospitality is very high in the Danish capital and you can easily find expert cooking, superior produce and a hyggelig atmosphere all across town.
Eating out there can be expensive for visitors, but I’ve found the best way to enjoy Copenhagen is to order the set dinner menu at a good restaurant, as they are usually well-composed and offer excellent value (as well as fuelling up for the day with a big hotel breakfast).
I first visited Copenhagen a few years ago and had a memorable five-course dinner at Höst, delicious sourdough pizza at Mother, gourmet burgers at Cocks and Cows at Hotel SP34 and warming street food at the Torvehallerne food hall. This time, we discovered more gems and further explored the vibrant Kødbyen (Meatpacking District). Here are some top places to add to your list…
BÆST
BÆST by Michelin-starred chef Christian Puglisi appears on every ‘best pizza in the world’ list and it’s definitely an essential stop on any pizza pilgrimage.
This game-changing Nørrebro restaurant takes a uniquely Danish approach to Italian cooking and has its own sustainable eco system. Fresh ingredients are sourced from Puglisi’s organic Farm of Ideas, while the artisan cheeses and charcuterie are made upstairs in the micro-dairy and salumeria and bread comes straight from the oven at Mirabelle bakery next door.
Pizza, however, is just one aspect of the kitchen’s offering, and you can feast on sharing plates such as BÆST speck and mozzarella, Burrata with Hokkaido pumpkin and grilled herb oil, Chicken thighs with miso glaze and Grilled rib-eye with kale, elderflower and capers. The full BÆST Experience and Sunday Brunch offers a selection of small plates, pizza and dessert, so you can try a bit of everything.
As we were short on time, we enjoyed a lighter lunch of two pizzas, which were served one at a time for sharing. The first pizza – Tomato passata, garlic, BÆST Stracciatella and oregano – was definitely our favourite. The dough was nicely blistered and ever so light and the combination of the extra-juicy tomatoes, creamy Stracciatella, slivers of punchy garlic and fresh micro-herbs was absolutely dreamy.
Pizza number 7 – Savoy Cabbage, smoked BÆST Mozzarella, Hindsholm sausage and Pecorino Romano – was indulgent and complex with high quality meat, a drizzle of oil and a surprising tartness from the cheese. I’d love to go back and try even more of the menu next time.
Fleisch
Copenhagen’s Meatpacking District is packed full of outstanding restaurants and bars and you could easily spend every night there working through them all. One of the best is Fleisch, a white tiled butcher shop, bar and restaurant with a surprisingly cosy atmosphere.
From the name of the restaurant, you might expect it to be a full nose-to-tail experience, but the style of cooking is actually on the classic side. We visited in the evening for the five-course butcher’s menu filled with tempting, varied dishes. To begin, we grazed on moreish Serrano ham and springy sourdough bread with salted butter, while waiting for our sharing starters.
Ceviche of pike perch with yellow chilli, lime, ginger, shallots, radish and black sesame was incredibly fresh and tangy and a real contrast to the hearty, satisfying Crispy croquette of game with stewed kale.
Sirloin beef tartare had a silky texture and mature flavour and it went perfectly with the flavourful pickled parsley roots, porcini mayo and root chips.
The main dish of Fried duck breast, duck sausage, stewed white cabbage, glazed beetroot, prunes and port wine sauce was an absolute delight with rich, seasonal flavours and exceptional, tender meat.
The meal ended on a decadent note with a luscious dessert – Cherry sorbet, cherry compote, creme anglaise and dark chocolate.
If you book one indulgent dinner in Copenhagen, make it Fleisch and you won’t be disappointed.
Warpigs
Just around the corner from Fleisch is Warpigs, a temple of smoked meats, craft beer and rock music. This well-established brewpub specialises in authentic Texan-style barbecue and has an on-site brewery with 22 American-Danish beers on tap.
Warpigs is one of the most popular spots in the Meatpacking District and it can be hard to grab a seat on busy evenings, but it’s definitely worth the wait, especially since there’s no waiting around for your food. It has a bit of a school canteen vibe where you sit at a communal table and queue at the counter for the pit master to fill your tray with different meats, freshly carved and weighed to order. Then, it’s over to the bar to collect the drinks and within moments you can ravenously dig in!
We shared the Trooper Tray packed with 1/4lb spare rib, 1/4 pulled pork, 1/4 link sausage and two side, plus an extra 1/2lb of brisket. The sausages had a touch of curry spice and the meats were so tender and smoky with a punchy dry rub and a thin melt-in-the-mouth layer of fat on the brisket.
The mac and cheese wasn’t very cheesy and the sauce tasted like more of a beer-infused bechamel, but it was still rather scrumptious and the burnt end baked beans were tangy with a real chilli kick. We washed it all down with a delicious Existential Crisis IPA, full of aromatic honey notes.
The soundtrack was more ‘Friday night rock classics’ than the ‘death metal’ that is often mentioned in reviews, but the atmosphere was great and we had a lot of fun. I’ll never forget the entire place singing along to Radiohead’s Creep, forks waving in the air.
Hija de Sanchez
Hija de Sanchez is the place in Copenhagen for authentic Mexican tacos. Chef and restaurateur Rosio Sanchez moved from Chicago to Copenhagen to work at noma and opened her first taqueria in the Torvehallerne food market in 2015. There are now four Hija de Sanchez taquerias and the high-end Sanchez restaurant with a five-course tasting menu in Vesterbro.
Hija de Sanchez uses high quality local meat and vegetables and everything is home-made, from the tortillas to the sauces. For that authentic flavour, the corn and organic quesillo are imported from Mexico.
To try a bit of everything, go for the combo of the day with salsa, including one barbacoa taco, one pastor taco and one vegetarian taco. The meat tacos are rich, generously filled and finished with fresh herbs, however they’re some of the most subtle, singular tacos I’ve tried (keeping with tradition). We also enjoyed sides of tortilla chips and guacamole and red rice with peas, corn, pinto beans and fresh cheese.
Studio x Kitchen
It’s hard to find cafes with a neighbourhood feel in the city centre, but Studio x Kitchen on Dronningens Tværgade has that cosy, friendly vibe. It’s perfect for a light lunch or coffee break and everything is home-made, using high quality ingredients from local farms, and presented on pottery plates.
Go for their signature folded eggs from Søagergård with either Gammel Knas cheese and nduja butter or Birkemosegaard kale, preserved citrus vinaigrette and hazelnuts with home-made sesame focaccia – both delicious. There are also excellent flat whites and artisanal Japanese teas, plus tempting baked treats at the counter.
YOBURGER
On one of our nights in Copenhagen there was a big storm, so a low-key take-out burger was on the cards. We headed for the famous Gasolene Grill, but when it closed early for the evening all was not lost, as YOBURGER (a favourite of Emili Sindlev) was just around the corner.
We went big and ordered a double Yobacon’ Avo Menu each, which came with crispy skin-on fries and a can of soda. The burger was huge and delicious with two patties of ground Danish beef grilled perfectly medium, smoky bacon, half an avocado sliced, gooey American cheese, signature burger sauce, fresh tomato and lettuce all packed inside a Belgian butter brioche bun.
At 159 DKK, it’s probably the most I’ve ever paid for a gourmet fast food burger meal, but the quality was great and it seems in line with similar burger joints in Copenhagen.
Kafeteria
SMK (National Gallery of Denmark) is one of the best art galleries I’ve ever been to, with stunning architecture, excellent curation and a bit of everything on display, from the Dutch Masters to contemporary Danish sculpture. It’s also home to Kafeteria by chef and restaurateur Frederik Bille Brahe, who also operates the stylish Atelier September and Apollo Bar & Kantine.
We enjoyed a light lunch of warming, velvety Pumpkin soup with coconut yoghurt and seeds with fantastic sourdough bread.
Just when we were trying to be healthy, the little girl sitting next to us tucked into the most enormous stack of pancakes with mascarpone and maple syrup and I couldn’t help feeling a touch of food envy, but there’s always next time!
Hooked
One thing I love about Copenhagen is the abundance of fresh seafood, especially when it’s served in a casual street food style. Hooked began as a food truck at the city’s food markets and festivals and it became so popular that its first restaurant opened in 2017.
Its sixth location recently opened at Christianshavn, with a wallet-friendly 20% intro offer, so we popped along for a tasty lunch after an early morning of travelling. It’s a casual, cave-like restaurant where you can drop by or book a table.
I couldn’t resist ordering the deliciously authentic American lobster roll with warm pieces of fresh lobster doused in brown butter and lemon in a toasted brioche bun, finished with chive, mayo and thin crispy onions. It was served with a huge portion of Hooked’s signature chunky vinegar fries (so good) and a moreish truffle mayo dip as part of a combo.
Fish and chips was also excellent with a succulent fillet of pollack fried in spiced breadcrumbs, vinegar fries, pea mint mash and tartar sauce.
Conditori La Glace
There’s something truly magical about Conditori La Glace, Denmark’s oldest patisserie and tea salon (dating back to 1870). In the winter, there is a constant queue in front of the extravagant window displays laden with cakes and sweets, however it’s well worth the wait to get a table.
La Glace specialises in traditional Danish pastries (many named after composers, actresses and royals), confectionery and towering layer cakes. The signature hot chocolate is served in a silver jug with pots of fresh whipped cream and you can visit the counter for a refill.
We paired our hot chocolate with a slice of Cherry Christmas – a decadent, bright red cake with cherries, Christmas spices, mascarpone and an almond base.
We enjoyed La Glace so much that we went back the next day for another warming hot chocolate – it’s hard to resist!
The American Pie Co.
Stumbling across an authentic American pie shop in the middle of Copenhagen was a joyful and unexpected discovery and the aromas of apples and spice lured us in. The American Pie Co. – a cosy cafe and bakery on the corner of Skindergade – has a 1920s diner-meets-apothecary vibe with a big American flag and vintage pie pans adorning the walls.
There is a tempting array of both savoury and sweet pies at the counter – in classic flavours like pumpkin, cranberry, chocolate peppermint and brandy butterscotch.
We ordered a slice of Bourbon pecan pie and Salted apple caramel pie with big glasses filled with hot apple cider. Both pies were absolutely delicious and a good contrast and the hot apple cider was spicy and tangy without being overly sweet.
Slices of pie are also available for take-out and you can order whole pies in advance – I did wonder if we could sneak one back on the plane!
Have you been on a foodie trip to Copenhagen? Where are your favourite places to eat?
Eating out in Copenhagen can get pricey, but look out for those set lunch menus and you can eat very well. Odette is a cosy restaurant in the heart of Copenhagen’s old town and its home-made pasta is fantastic. We had the most delicious pasta dishes and garlic bread to share… ?? Bucatini, eggplant ragout, salciccia, marjoram and Parmesan. ?? Ravioli, pumpkin, ricotta, sage and Pecorino. ?? Bread made from Oland wheat with garlic and thyme. #copenhagen#foodie#denmark#pasta#pastatiktok#restaurant
Eating out in Palma de Mallorca is an absolute joy with plenty of charming tapas bars to choose from, however there’s no hotter place on the island than El Camino from restaurateur Eddie Hart.
Having conquered London with the game-changing Barrafina tapas bars (including the Michelin-starred Soho original), as well as Fino and Quo Vadis, Eddie moved away from his brothers for the sunnier climes of Mallorca and partnered with singer-songwriter Samuel Gough to launch El Camino.
Located in the heart of Palma’s vibrant old town, on a narrow side street just off the elegant tree-lined Passeig del Born, El Camino feels like a secret address among those in the know. It’s also in good company with the design-led Brondo Architect Hotel, tucked away on the Carrer de Can Brondo.
El Camino is a stunning restaurant, designed by Elsa Oliveras Studio, with intricate mosaic floors, shiny white metro tiles and romantic touches like hand-painted wall murals, smoked mirrors and little stars adorning the ceiling.
Like Barrafina, it’s all about counter dining at the long marble-topped oak bar, where you can watch the chefs at work, perched on a comfy burgundy leather bar stool. There’s also a cosy bar area at the back of the restaurant to kick off your night with a glass of wine and some olives and padrón peppers while waiting to be seated (which may take a little while since it’s walk-ins only).
El Camino offers Mediterranean tapas with a focus on local Mallorcan ingredients sourced by Chef David Taborda. The wine list also features well-priced wines from the island and mainland Spain.
The well-edited menu is designed for sharing and is divided into para picar, tapas, rice, fish, meat and vegetables, along with daily specials.
We started with the most fantastic Jamon croquettes – crunchy, plump and oozing with velvety bechamel and flecks of high quality ham.
Classic tortilla was incredibly moreish and substantial – crispy and golden on the outside with layers of thinly-sliced potato and onion and a runny, deep orange-hued centre. It also comes with a choice of prawns or chorizo and is a must-order dish.
We were also wowed by the magnificent Squid ink rice, served in a copper cooking dish. The black rice was nicely firm and herby, topped with tender fresh squid and served with a punchy garlic aioli.
Basque cod was also a real treat and expertly cooked a la plancha. The juicy, flaky cod fillet had perfectly scorched skin and sat atop a vibrant, well-seasoned red pepper stew. It’s so delicious that you might want to put aside the sharing idea and order one each!
Although El Camino stands strong with its own identity and concept, it’s hard not to compare it to Barrafina, as there are so many similarities and the standard is equally high. It’s the kind of place that you always hope to find on holiday and can’t wait to tell everyone about it when you get home.
The walk-in policy means you might have to arrive early and be prepared to wait, however you will be well looked after and there is a delightful private dining room that can be booked for larger groups.
Have you been to El Camino? Where is your favourite place to eat tapas in Palma de Mallorca?
Photos by Chérie City (interior image from El Camino)
Dining out in Amsterdam is always an event, whether you’re in the mood for a juicy burger, the freshest sushi or creative small plates. Brunch is also done exceedingly well and you can’t beat the city’s famous croquettes, sweet waffles and Dutch apple pie.
On my last trip to Amsterdam, I ventured a bit further out of the historic centre and explored the food scene across the river in Noord and the lively Albert Cuypstraat in cool neighbourhood, De Pijp.
Here are a few top eateries to add to your Amsterdam list…
The Butcher Social Club
Ask where to find a great burger in Amsterdam and everyone will point you to The Butcher. It’s a real institution with five gourmet burger bars across the city including The Butcher Social Club, complete with ping pong and pinball machines, inside the hip Sir Adam Hotel.
The Butcher is famed for its juicy, saucy, flame-grilled burgers with prime Aberdeen Angus beef, Dutch Edam cheese for that local touch, signature burger sauce and plenty of toppings. If you’re not in the mood for a beef burger, go for prime New Zealand lamb, grilled marinated chicken, beer battered blue cod, or a fried chickpea veggie burger. The sides are pretty standard, with sweet potato fries, onion rings and mozzarella sticks, but make sure you order the smoky babaganoush sauce for dipping – it’s a game-changer.
CHUN
Bubble tea happens to be one of my secret vices, so I had to check out CHUN in the busy 9 Streets district. This petite tea shop has a contemporary, minimalist feel with a well-edited menu and a focus on high quality natural ingredients. You can try hot or cold drinks made with fresh tea and home-made syrups, including a classic brown sugar milk tea, taro coconut milk tea, matcha latte or hojicha.
As it was a sunny day, we ordered two refreshing fruit-based teas – Mango jasmine iced tea with added boba pearls and Orange peach iced tea. They were so luscious and uplifting that we stopped by the next day for another!
Staring at Jacob
One of my favourite Amsterdam finds has to be Staring at Jacob, a New York brunch bar on the corner of a leafy Oud-West street where you could imagine Carrie Bradshaw living. It’s the place to come when you’re in the mood for big breakfast platters and cocktails – think fried chicken and bloody marys and buttermilk pancakes with mimosa pitchers.
We grabbed a seat outdoors by the canal and watched the world go by while waiting for our food to arrive. I went for the absolutely delicious Jacob’s Benny – two poached eggs on sourdough toast with smoked butter, smoked bacon, hollandaise sauce and hash browns.
We also had to try Staring at Jacob’s signature dish, Rasco – fried chicken, buttermilk waffle, soft scrambled eggs, mixed leaves and maple syrup. The fried chicken was tender, crunchy and herby and it went perfectly with the fluffy waffle and buttery scrambled eggs, all finished nicely with good quality maple syrup. Be sure to bring your appetite!
Dignita
Another great brunch spot is Dignita Hoftuin, a delightful all-glass restaurant and terrace in a beautiful garden behind the Hermitage Museum. With three outposts across the city, Dignita is not only about eating well but doing good for the community, as it works closely Not For Sale, a social enterprise offering training and support to vulnerable people get back into work.
The menu is full of comforting brunch classics like pancake stacks, truffled mushrooms on toast and coconut granola, but there’s a lightness that keeps everything quite healthy. The Benny Boy didn’t disappoint with two perfectly poached Freiland eggs, a generous dollop of tangy apple cider hollandaise, micro greens and fresh smashed avocado on a light and crispy potato hash.
Another must-order dish is the flavourful Slow-roasted lamb leg sandwich with plenty of tender, aromatic Italan-style lamb on home-made sourdough bread with a herby rosemary spread, pickled red onions and baby watercress.
De Japanner
De Japanner, a petite izakaya on Albert Cuypstraat, is the place for Japanese bites and cocktails in De Pijp. Having worked at the renowned Taiko at the Conservatorium Hotel and some of the city’s best bars, owners Tosao van Coevorden and Guido De Bruijn have created a place that’s relaxed, unpretentious and full of soul.
Every plate we tried was exquisite. Beef tataki was ever so tender with a tangy, aromatic ginger and sesame ponzu and punchy garlic chips, while Chicken katsu was hot and crispy with a mature flavour and home-made tonkatsu sauce.
We also loved the fluffy Pork chashu bao with silky pork belly and chunky kimchi and the fantastic Ebi fry uramaki – perhaps the best sushi I’ve ever had!
Cabrón
Further along the street is Cabrón, a Mexican taqueria and cocktail bar with outdoor seating. It offers a tempting selection of traditional tacos and quesadillas, as well as larger south American-inspired plates like ceviche and brochetas.
The tacos are particularly good and our favourites were Carnitas with juicy roasted pork, fresh cheese and sweet potato and the spicy Birria – tender beef stew and aji onions.
It’s also worth filling up on a substantial, piquant Adobo chicken quesadilla and crowd-pleasing Cheese nachos, piled high with jalapenos and pickled pink onions, all washed down with a zesty Margarita or Pisco Sour.
Cafe-Restaurant Stork
In the warmer months, there’s nothing better than eating on the terrace at Cafe-Restaurant Stork, a fabulous fish and seafood restaurant in a renovated industrial warehouse on the northern banks of the River IJ.
It’s also perfectly placed to discover the newly-developed Amsterdam-Noord neighbourhood (a few minutes from Central Station on the ferry), where old shipyards have been transformed into cafes, breweries, taquerias, art galleries and urban beaches.
The menu is varied and accessible, so you can simply graze on a poke bowl or fish soup for lunch or go large with an indulgent seafood tower, whole Canadian lobster or the catch of the day. We had a light lunch and loved the crunchy Crab cakes, moreish Shrimp croquettes and the Avocado melt with sliced sirloin, parmesan and rocket and golden Friethoes fries.
Bar Fisk
Bar Fisk, a charming little fish bar in De Pijp, evokes the flavours of a Tel Aviv food market with a well-edited menu of delicately spiced sharing plates. Everything we ate was beautifully-presented with vibrant colours, harmonious pairings and the freshest produce.
We absolutely loved the Scallops with beetroot, walnut and chervil and the Grilled seabass in a fennel bouillabaisse. It’s also worth ordering some freshly-baked sesame bread with houmous and pickles and some inventive vegetable dishes.
Trattoria Graziella
You might not expect to find an Italian trattoria inside a luxury five star hotel, but the addition of Trattoria Graziella at the iconic Hotel De L’Europe somehow feels just right. We were staying at the hotel and after finishing the day unwinding in the fabulous spa, it was an absolute treat to simply roll downstairs to feast on antipasti and spaghetti.
Trattoria Graziella is a beautiful restaurant – modern yet rustic and warm – with a central counter and cosy window booths overlooking Nieuwe Doelenstraat. We started with generously-sized plates of top quality Prosciutto di Parma and creamy mozzarella di bufala and Beef carpaccio with artichokes, parmesan, rocket and balsamic vinegar.
Spaghetti Carbonara was ever so indulgent and scrumptious and I was wowed by the deliciously slow-cooked Spaghetti ai 5 pomodori, made lovingly from a time-honoured recipe with five types of tomato, basil and parmesan.
The staff were so lovely and welcoming and sent us on our merry way with a complimentary shot of limoncello. It feels like the kind of warm, convivial restaurant to celebrate an occasion with friends and family – it’s just so lovely.
Where are your favourite places to eat out in the Dutch capital? For more Amsterdam ideas, read my guide on places to eat out from previous trips.
Cologne is a charming, jolly city where the Kölsch beer flows freely and a hearty bratwurst is never too far away. Here, you can eat and drink with gusto and get to know the region’s flavourful and filling cuisine.
Traditional brauhauses can be found in the city centre close to the famous Cathedral while the stylish Belgian Quarter is the place to be in you’re in the mood for ramen, souvlaki or gourmet burgers. It’s also worth venturing out a little further to hip Ehrenfeld for great brunch spots, indie coffee shops and Turkish bakeries offering sticky baklava and pide fresh from the oven.
Here are some top cafes and restaurants that you must try when visiting Cologne:
Zeit Für Brot
I discovered this fabulous bakery-cafe in Berlin and was thrilled to find an outpost in Ehrenfeld, Cologne’s coolest neighbourhood. Its signature ‘snails’ come in a variety of flavours and are rustically served straight from the tray at the counter.
We loved the spiced apple and gooey dark chocolate flavours – both huge, fluffy and still warm from the oven.
Bar Schmitz
Schmitz is an all-day institution on Aachener Strasse, the Belgian Quarter’s lively main street. Set across three historic houses, this dining and drinking empire features four separate destinations with their own personalities – 1950s-inspired Salon Schmitz, Art Nouveau-style Bar Schmitz, the petite deli and patisserie Metzgerei Schmitz and the glitzy club Coco Schmitz.
It’s incredibly popular for weekend brunch and lucky we were able to grab a table at Bar Schmitz, the elegant brasserie and cafe with a take-away ice cream shop. It feels like a step back in time to a more glamorous era with opulent gold ceilings, red banquettes, smoked mirrors and an old fashioned bar.
We had the most fantastic Banana pancakes that were nicely caramelised and served with plenty of maple syrup. The breakfast menu is extensive with lots of classic dishes to choose from, so be sure to add Schmitz to your list.
Cafe Reichard
If you’re searching for your #AccidentalWesAnderson moment in Cologne, then step right up to Cafe Reichard. This family-run coffee house and terrace dates back to the 19th century and occupies a prime spot in front of the famous Cologne Cathedral.
The inviting patisserie and confectionery counter immediately lures you in and it’s worth stopping a while for an afternoon treat. The main salon is a real ‘good time’ place with live music, friendly waitresses in pink and a dedicated cake station.
It may not have the finesse of Europe’s notable grand cafes, but it’s a lovely place to take in Cologne life and indulge in a magnificent cherry meringue pie and hot chocolate.
Bei Oma Kleinmann
Cologne’s biggest (and possibly the best) schnitzel can be found at Bei Oma Kleinmann, a historic corner bar in the Latin Quarter. Named after its formidable cook and landlady Paula ‘Grandma’ Kleinmann, this traditional pub is small and cosy with a big reputation and an even bigger queue, thanks to Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown.
Table reservations are snapped up weeks in advance but we managed to walk in and be seating within around 45 minutes, after several rounds of Kölsch.
Schnitzel is Grandma Kleinmann’s speciality and it comes in either pork or veal with a number of different sauces, toppings and fillings. We tried a classic Wiener Schnitzel with insanely good roast potatoes and Hunter Schnitzel with crispy fries and a mouthwatering creamy sauce packed with wine and bacon.
Both were enormous with high quality meat, fine golden breadcrumbs and plenty of seasoning, accompanied by a fresh dressed salad. We couldn’t resist a small side of comforting, buttery Spaetzle, but the portion size was so big that it was impossible to finish.
Peters Brauhaus
Peters Brauhaus is one of those memorable, cosy places that you could go back to again and again. Originally named Zum Kranz (the wreath), this Mühlengasse brewery was established in 1544 and passed through many hands over the centuries, as well as being destroyed in World War II. Peters Brauhaus took the reins in 1994 and restored it to its former glory with its striking stained glass ceiling, oak panelling and majestic wreaths throughout.
At this merry, atmospheric bolthole, you can discover the cuisine of North Rhine-Westphalia with dishes such as Heaven and earth (black pudding with fried onions, mashed potato and apple sauce), Roasted pork knuckle, Herring fillets, Deer stew and Goulash.
We both went for the Grilled sausage with savoy cabbage and bacon fried potatoes and it was a real treat. In fact, I wish we’d had more time to go back and try more of the menu.
Belgischer Hof
For a romantic Saturday night dinner in the Belgian Quarter, be sure to book a table at Belgischer Hof. Tucked away off the main street, this popular brasserie and bar is accessed by a pretty courtyard filled with flowers and plants.
It’s best known for its flammkucken (a thin and crispy German pizza) with a number of toppings, from the traditional to the more experimental. We went for a classic flammkucken with bacon, onion, chives and creme fraiche, which was ever so moreish, smoky and slightly creamy.
Our main dishes were equally impressive and hearty – a real taste of the autumn season. The Wild boar cutlet with pancake crust, potato and cinnamon purée and baked pumpkin had an intense meaty flavour and went well with the spiced mash and soft, caramelised pumpkin.
I originally ordered the veal, but an unfortunate mistake with the English-translated menu led to me being served the Phesant breast with pommes macaire and caramelised beets and grapes. It wasn’t a loss though, as the pheasant was delicious and I loved the sweetness from the beets and the indulgent potato cakes.
My only criticism is that both meats were a little too well-done and could have been more tender.
NENI Cologne
To end our Cologne trip on a high note, we enjoyed dinner at NENI, an old favourite that we’d previously visited in Berlin, Hamburg and Mallorca. Chef Haya Molcho’s ‘Balagan-style’ restaurant always has a fun, breezy vibe and offers magnificent views over the city from the eighth floor of the fabulous 25hours Hotel The Circle.
We grazed on the house offering of fresh sourdough bread with creamy za’atar yoghurt and olives and started with delicious Moroccan cigars – crispy filo pastry filled with spiced beef and pine nuts. From the robata grill, we enjoyed the NENI-style kebab – smoky, juicy beef-lamb kebab with Har Bracha tahina, parsley, baharat, grilled vegetables and pita bread.
The spice continued with the Jerusalem Teller with tender grilled strips of chicken with spices, fresh herbs, humus, Har Bracha tahina, bell pepper, onion and pita bread. This was already more than enough, but we couldn’t resist a bowl of crunchy Sweet potato fries with a piquant mango aioli.
Whether you’re visiting Cologne for the Christmas markets, Carnival or simply a weekend break, you’re sure to eat well in this convivial city.
My past two summer holidays have been spent on the beautiful Balearic island of Mallorca and this year I tried to switch up destinations, but then Bikini Island & Mountain Hotel Port de Soller came along!
As a lover of design hotels, I often plan my trips around inspiring accommodation and I was keen to see what this resort inspired by San Francisco’s sixties hippie movement was all about.
Opened just last summer, Bikini Island & Mountain Hotel Port de Soller is the creative vision of four hospitality experts, including the two masterminds behind Germany’s pioneering 25hours hotels There are a few familiar touches that guests of the urban hotel group will recognise.
Arrival
We spent three night in Palma, staying at our old favourite Innside Palma Center, and took a scenic 45-minute bus ride over to Port de Soller to stay at Bikini for the remaining two nights (remind me to book for longer next time).
A quick taxi ride up the hill and we were checking in to Bikini heaven. Many of the friendly staff have come over from Germany from the summer season and we found the reception staff particularly efficient and welcoming.
The Room
Our Bayside Room on the second floor was bigger than I’d expected with a ‘college dorm meets surf shack’ style with turquoise walls, pine shelving and a pink peace sign on the ceiling.
Room features include a large flatscreen TV, king-size bed with cheeky ‘make love, not war’ cushions, Nespresso machine, minibar and a colourful beach bag and cotton beach towels to use during your stay. Fast wifi and powerful air-conditioning made everything tick along nicely.
Though the bathroom was petite, it had an exotic spa feel with a powerful walk-in shower, full size ILoveEcoEssentials bathroom products, fluffy towels and cotton waffle bathrobes.
Best of all was the private balcony with a day bed and hand-woven cream cushions that you’d expect to see in Tulum. Incense and tea light candles were thoughtfully provided free of charge to make the balcony all twinkling and fragrant at night.
The Pool
The jewel of the hotel is the fabulous swimming pool with a floral peace sign, which is suprisingly deep and surrounded by sunbeds shaded by raffia parasols and a few cabanas. Bikini is adults-only and the vibe is purposely chilled, so there aren’t any screaming childen or stag parties to contend with, just those cheeky sunbed hoggers (to the hotel’s credit, they have signs up discouraging it).
For the ultimate wellness break, there’s also morning yoga classes, a rooftop gym, sauna and steam room and Santaverde Spa with aloe vera treatments to cool down any sunburn.
Pikkini Bar
Among the pretty gardens punctuated with vivid bougainvillea is the Pikkini Bar, where you can refuel with burgers, salads and smoothies. We loved the enormous Club sandwich and the Loaded sweet potato fries with avocado and jalapenos – more than enough for two to share.
The colourful Donkey Bar, created by Joerg Meyer of Hamburg’s Le Lion Bar, is another cool retreat serving cocktails and snacks from late-afternoon into the night.
Dinner at NENI
A big deciding factor in staying at Bikini was the hotel restaurant, NENI Mallorca, part of a boutique chain by Tel Aviv-born chef Haya Molcho and her sons (I love their restaurants in Berlin, Cologne and Hamburg). This made it very appealing to eat at the hotel morning and night and truly relax.
The restaurant is absolutely beautiful, covered in bottle green tiles with hanging plants in colourful pots and comfy garden-style seating. Of course, the outdoor terrace is the place to be, with spectacular views over the port and mountains, and we were fortune to have the same lovely front row table for two each time we dined there (make sure you book in advance).
NENI is all about Balagan-style social eating and everything is made to share around the table. Go for the Best of NENI (39 Euros per person) and let the chef prepare a dazzling feast for you, or go for a few mezze and mains like we did.
Highlights from our two dinners there were crispy Moroccan cigars, tender Marinated lamb steak with Mallorcan oranges and char-grilled broccoli, my usual favourite Jerusalem plate with spiced chicken, hummus, roasted red peppers and Har Bracha tahini with pita bread and the most fantastic grilled Gambas with tomato seeds, spinach and garlic.
We also loved the refreshing NENI iced tea and Limonana served in one-litre pitchers, New York-style cheesecake and the labneh with olives and pita bread served at the start of the meal.
Breakfast
Breakfast was equally impressive with a self-service buffet laden with Mallorcan and Middle Eastern treats. Alongside the typical breakfast items were Shakshuka, Spanish tortilla, traditional coca bread, fresh hummus, tahini and guacamole, high quality jamon Iberico and fresh yoghurt with granola.
Other highlights were little squares of sticky pistachio cake, the most luscious freshly-squeezed Soller orange juice, home-baked breads and loose leaf teas.
Location
To really get the most out of your stay at Bikini, you can hire Steven’s bicycles for free or take a spin in a cute Mercedes Benz convertible to explore the pretty town of Soller and charming, artistic villages Valldemossa and Deià. Port de Soller, with its promenade full of restaurants, cafes and shops, is just 5-minutes walk downhill and you can hike in the Serra de Tramuntana, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Bikini Island & Mountain Hotel Port de Soller is a great addition to this beautiful part of the island and its boho-luxe vibe is matched with unparalleled facilities and warm staff. Life is Better in Bikini, as they say!
Hôtel Plaza Athénée is one of Paris’ most stylish and romantic five star hotels with an unrivalled fashion heritage. Located on the chic Avenue Montaigne, this Art Nouveau palace hotel has been epitome Parisian luxury since 1911.
I was recently invited to spend the night at Hôtel Plaza Athénée as part of a luxury trip to the Hermès Atelier and Hermès Left Bank store. Staying at Plaza Athénée has always been a dream and pulling up to the hotel in our taxi, seeing the iconic red awnings was a real ‘wow’ moment.
Sex and the City filming
This is a good point to mention that Hôtel Plaza Athénée was the backdrop for Carrie Bradshaw’s Paris adventures for ‘An American Girl in Paris’, the last two episodes of Sex and the City. The lobby is elegant, intimate and filled with beautiful floral arrangements. It is in fact cosier than in the TV series (a trick of the camera), yet just as spectacular.
Arrival
Throughout the hotel there is a luminous warmth, making you feel enveloped in a cashmere cocoon of luxury. The friendly, attentive staff impressed by learning to pronounce my name perfectly, addressing me as ‘Madame Alimohamadi’ for the duration of my stay. It’s these small touches that keeps Plaza Athénée, a member of the prestigious Dorchester Collection, at the top of its game.
The Room
My Deluxe Room on the first floor overlooking the Avenue Montaigne was simply exquisite. It was designed in a Parisian style with a colour palette of pink, silver grey and light beige. The stunning Louis XVI-style chairs and the heavy silk drapes were made of the finest fabric and I loved the antique lamps and marquetry writing bureau.
A Welcome Treat
I was welcomed with a delicious lemon cake, large bottle of mineral water and fresh fruit.
The spacious room also featured a separate dressing room with two wardrobes, a full-length cupboard and a vanity dresser.
The king-size bed was ever so comfortable and covered with crisp hypo-allergenic linen. There is also a pillow menu, so you choose between de-stressing, osteopathic, beautifying, wheat, synthetic or horsehair. I didn’t have time to select my pillows before dinner, but the pillows selected for me were perfect (I’d like to think they were the beautifying ones).
When I first arrived, it took a while to find the TV. I searched the cupboards and tables for a sign of a screen and eventually discovered that the large gilded mirror turned into a plasma TV!
Other room features include remote-control air conditioning, internet access (for a fee), DVD player, twice daily housekeeping (including evening turn-down), complimentary shoe shine and a minibar stocked with 80 items.
The Bathroom
The marble bathroom was also suitably luxurious with a marble bath, walk-in shower, double sink and embroidered bathrobes and slippers. The chic bathroom amenities resembled Chanel No.5 bottles and were specially developed for the hotel by natural skincare brand, Plantation.
Breakfast
In the morning, we had an early start, so I ordered the American Breakfast – Poached Eggs on Toast with bacon, a selection of Viennoiserie, cereal, red berries, fresh orange juice and English breakfast tea. The breakfast was excellent and beautifully presented on a full-size table with silver service.
The Carrie Bradshaw Suite
We were given a tour of the hotel, starting with the Eiffel Suite, also known as the Carrie Bradshaw suite. The suite has since been redesigned, however, we stood on the balcony where a Sonia Rykiel-clad Carrie screams at the Eiffel Tower.
On this one rare occasion, I felt slightly more fortunate than Carrie Bradshaw, as I had the pleasure of spending my time there with Hermès and fabulous fashion bloggers, rather than Aleksandr Petrovsky! However, wearing her mille-feuille couture gown to dinner would have been most welcome.
Dining at Plaza Athénée is an absolute delight. You can enjoy tea and cake by renowned pastry chef Christophe Michalak in the elegant Galerie des Gobelins (where Carrie met Petrovsky’s daughter Chloé) or summer outdoor dining at La Terrasse Montaigne or the romantic Cour Jardin.
For something more traditional and typically Parisian, try Le Relais Plaza with its steak and seafood focused bistro menu by Alain Ducasse. The interiors are inspired by the Art Deco liner Le Normandie and the entrance is lined with photographs of celebrity guests at Le Relais Plaza.
Dinner at Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée
The jewel of the hotel, however, is the three Michelin star restaurant, Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée. We enjoyed a long, multiple course dinner at The Chef’s Table – an experience for special occasions that cannot be bought.
Le Bar du Plaza Athénée
An apéritif or a cocktail at Le Bar du Plaza Athénée is an absolute must. The hip bar is designed by Patrick Jouin, a former protégé of Philippe Starck and has cool features such as a sculpted glass bar and iPads for ordering cocktails. Recently, the Plaza Athénée mixologist Thierry Hernandez collaborated with perfumer Sophie Labbé on L’ELIXIR DE PRINTEMPS, a unique cocktail and perfume experience. With each cocktail, guests receive a limited edition bottle of L’ELIXIR DE PRINTEMPS perfume.
Dior Institut
Another perk of staying at Hôtel Plaza Athénée is access to the stunning Dior Institut. Opened in 2008, the Dior Institut pays tribute to the long-standing relationship between the hotel and Christian Dior. In 1947, Christian Dior opened his first shop on Avenue Montaigne, so that he could be close to his beloved Plaza Athénée and his well-heeled clients. In fact, Monsieur Dior even named some of his collections ‘Plaza’ and ‘Athénée’.
This stylish, peaceful sanctuary offers a relaxation lounge, tea room, steam baths, saunas and fitness centre. Luxurious Dior Beauté skin and body treatments are offered in private rooms designed to reflect Christian Dior’s iconic geometric lines and signature colours, white and grey.
Hôtel Plaza Athénée continues its strong fashion legacy by hosting the Dorchester Collection Prize 2012. The judging panel, from different sectors of the fashion industry, includes Kenzo Takada, Lorenz Baumer, Bruno Frisoni, Nathalie Rykiel, Chantal Thomass, Alexandra Golovanoff, Harumi Klossowska de Rola and Jean-Jacques Picart.
Staying at Hôtel Plaza Athénée is a dreamy, awe-inspiring experience, where luxury is a fine art. A more stylish Paris address simply cannot be found.
A Deluxe Room is priced at €995 per night. Suites start from €1,255. For more info and booking, visit: www.plaza-athenee-paris.com
Les Ateliers Hermès is a hallowed temple of tradition and craftsmanship to which a select few are granted access. I had the enormous privilege of being among a group of the first bloggers ever to be invited to see behind the scenes of the iconic leather maison.
Located in Pantin, on the outskirts of Paris, the Hermès atelier is a central hub of artisans, craftsmen and head office staff – the place where ideas are born and developed. Originally above the Faubourg St Honoré store (back in the early days of 1837), there are now ten ateliers in France, each containing ten workshops.
The exterior of the building is unassuming, yet inside it’s a sparkling, minimalist hive with splashes of Hermès colour, designed by artistic director, Pierre-Alexis Dumas. I expected more of a cluttered workshop environment, but in fact, the Hermès aesthetic is present throughout the production stages, not just a glossy finish for the customer.
We visited the Atelier Petits Sacs where smaller bags such as the Constance (my personal favourite), Illico, Birkin, Kelly and a few other designs are produced. The room was filled with the sound of hammering and the intoxicating scent of leather.
Dotted around the spacious workshop were the personal work stations of the craftsmen and artisans, each personalised with their own photos, mementos, books, mascots and little Hermès emblems.
Apprentices train at the Hermès leather school for one year, learning to create the core designs such as the Birkin and Kelly in different leathers. When they begin to work in the atelier, they build on their skills, making more complex bags with difficult skins such as croc and python. At present, Hermès uses 30 different skins and 300 colours. After ten years at Hermès, they have earned the titled of ‘artisan’.
Each craftsman sees their own bag through all stages of production and every bag bears a subtle signature mark inside. They are each able to make three to four bags per week, depending on the complexity of the specific bag. For example, a Birkin can take 12-14 hours to make and around 25 hours in an advanced skin such as croc.
We met a number of artisans who allowed us to watch them working on their bag. They were welcoming and appeared pleased to show off their skills, remaining unfazed while we zoomed and clicked away. We watched Stefan hand-stitch the brand new Kelly bag design with contrasting broguing. He listens to music while he works to keep his concentrating.
All bags are hand-stitched to make them stronger and more durable than bags stitched by machine. The bags are sewn by saddle-stitch using two needles and just one piece of thread, so it’s imperative to get the length right from the start.
Martine showed us how she sands down the edges of the leather with a hot tool to remove the excess glue and to get a smooth edge. When she’s satisfied that the edges are perfect, she then adds a layer of lacquer to seal them.
There are many other stages in the production of the bags, such as nailing the hardware onto the leather and clipping it down by hand, creating a curve on certain bags and coating the leather in beeswax to make it last longer and bring out the full colour.
In addition to the key pieces, Hermès bags from previous eras are often taken out of the archive and re-edited, creating exciting new challenges for the craftsmen. A recently revived design is the Sac a Depeche, a handsome briefcase in super smooth leather with a buckle clasp.
There is a tense moment as the hand-stitched bags are turned the right side out. If the bags are anything less than perfect, they can’t be finished and sold, so hours of work are wasted. However, there are no horror stories of rejected bags being destroyed, as the bags with tiny imperfections are available for Hermès staff to buy at a discounted price.
Also, Hermès has recently launched Petit H Creative Lab, a project where unfinished bags are transformed into imaginative new pieces by artists. Located close to the atelier, the Petit H lab is a place for re-imagining the classics, not just for art’s sake, but for future innovations at Hermès.
Visiting Les Ateliers Hermès was not only a rare fashion experience but also a real education. Coming from a family of professional craftswomen (my grandmother was a tailor and my mother is a quilter with her own fabric store), I understand the skill and ability involved, but this was entirely another level of perfection.
Now that I’ve seen the care, time and soul that goes into Hermès bags, the pursuit of a Constance bag has become a life-long mission.
