Cologne is a charming, jolly city where the Kölsch beer flows freely and a hearty bratwurst is never too far away. Here, you can eat and drink with gusto and get to know the region’s flavourful and filling cuisine.
Traditional brauhauses can be found in the city centre close to the famous Cathedral while the stylish Belgian Quarter is the place to be in you’re in the mood for ramen, souvlaki or gourmet burgers. It’s also worth venturing out a little further to hip Ehrenfeld for great brunch spots, indie coffee shops and Turkish bakeries offering sticky baklava and pide fresh from the oven.
Here are some top cafes and restaurants that you must try when visiting Cologne:
Zeit Für Brot
I discovered this fabulous bakery-cafe in Berlin and was thrilled to find an outpost in Ehrenfeld, Cologne’s coolest neighbourhood. Its signature ‘snails’ come in a variety of flavours and are rustically served straight from the tray at the counter.
We loved the spiced apple and gooey dark chocolate flavours – both huge, fluffy and still warm from the oven.
Bar Schmitz
Schmitz is an all-day institution on Aachener Strasse, the Belgian Quarter’s lively main street. Set across three historic houses, this dining and drinking empire features four separate destinations with their own personalities – 1950s-inspired Salon Schmitz, Art Nouveau-style Bar Schmitz, the petite deli and patisserie Metzgerei Schmitz and the glitzy club Coco Schmitz.
It’s incredibly popular for weekend brunch and lucky we were able to grab a table at Bar Schmitz, the elegant brasserie and cafe with a take-away ice cream shop. It feels like a step back in time to a more glamorous era with opulent gold ceilings, red banquettes, smoked mirrors and an old fashioned bar.
We had the most fantastic Banana pancakes that were nicely caramelised and served with plenty of maple syrup. The breakfast menu is extensive with lots of classic dishes to choose from, so be sure to add Schmitz to your list.
Cafe Reichard
If you’re searching for your #AccidentalWesAnderson moment in Cologne, then step right up to Cafe Reichard. This family-run coffee house and terrace dates back to the 19th century and occupies a prime spot in front of the famous Cologne Cathedral.
The inviting patisserie and confectionery counter immediately lures you in and it’s worth stopping a while for an afternoon treat. The main salon is a real ‘good time’ place with live music, friendly waitresses in pink and a dedicated cake station.
It may not have the finesse of Europe’s notable grand cafes, but it’s a lovely place to take in Cologne life and indulge in a magnificent cherry meringue pie and hot chocolate.
Bei Oma Kleinmann
Cologne’s biggest (and possibly the best) schnitzel can be found at Bei Oma Kleinmann, a historic corner bar in the Latin Quarter. Named after its formidable cook and landlady Paula ‘Grandma’ Kleinmann, this traditional pub is small and cosy with a big reputation and an even bigger queue, thanks to Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown.
Table reservations are snapped up weeks in advance but we managed to walk in and be seating within around 45 minutes, after several rounds of Kölsch.
Schnitzel is Grandma Kleinmann’s speciality and it comes in either pork or veal with a number of different sauces, toppings and fillings. We tried a classic Wiener Schnitzel with insanely good roast potatoes and Hunter Schnitzel with crispy fries and a mouthwatering creamy sauce packed with wine and bacon.
Both were enormous with high quality meat, fine golden breadcrumbs and plenty of seasoning, accompanied by a fresh dressed salad. We couldn’t resist a small side of comforting, buttery Spaetzle, but the portion size was so big that it was impossible to finish.
Peters Brauhaus
Peters Brauhaus is one of those memorable, cosy places that you could go back to again and again. Originally named Zum Kranz (the wreath), this Mühlengasse brewery was established in 1544 and passed through many hands over the centuries, as well as being destroyed in World War II. Peters Brauhaus took the reins in 1994 and restored it to its former glory with its striking stained glass ceiling, oak panelling and majestic wreaths throughout.
At this merry, atmospheric bolthole, you can discover the cuisine of North Rhine-Westphalia with dishes such as Heaven and earth (black pudding with fried onions, mashed potato and apple sauce), Roasted pork knuckle, Herring fillets, Deer stew and Goulash.
We both went for the Grilled sausage with savoy cabbage and bacon fried potatoes and it was a real treat. In fact, I wish we’d had more time to go back and try more of the menu.
Belgischer Hof
For a romantic Saturday night dinner in the Belgian Quarter, be sure to book a table at Belgischer Hof. Tucked away off the main street, this popular brasserie and bar is accessed by a pretty courtyard filled with flowers and plants.
It’s best known for its flammkucken (a thin and crispy German pizza) with a number of toppings, from the traditional to the more experimental. We went for a classic flammkucken with bacon, onion, chives and creme fraiche, which was ever so moreish, smoky and slightly creamy.
Our main dishes were equally impressive and hearty – a real taste of the autumn season. The Wild boar cutlet with pancake crust, potato and cinnamon purée and baked pumpkin had an intense meaty flavour and went well with the spiced mash and soft, caramelised pumpkin.
I originally ordered the veal, but an unfortunate mistake with the English-translated menu led to me being served the Phesant breast with pommes macaire and caramelised beets and grapes. It wasn’t a loss though, as the pheasant was delicious and I loved the sweetness from the beets and the indulgent potato cakes.
My only criticism is that both meats were a little too well-done and could have been more tender.
NENI Cologne
To end our Cologne trip on a high note, we enjoyed dinner at NENI, an old favourite that we’d previously visited in Berlin, Hamburg and Mallorca. Chef Haya Molcho’s ‘Balagan-style’ restaurant always has a fun, breezy vibe and offers magnificent views over the city from the eighth floor of the fabulous 25hours Hotel The Circle.
We grazed on the house offering of fresh sourdough bread with creamy za’atar yoghurt and olives and started with delicious Moroccan cigars – crispy filo pastry filled with spiced beef and pine nuts. From the robata grill, we enjoyed the NENI-style kebab – smoky, juicy beef-lamb kebab with Har Bracha tahina, parsley, baharat, grilled vegetables and pita bread.
The spice continued with the Jerusalem Teller with tender grilled strips of chicken with spices, fresh herbs, humus, Har Bracha tahina, bell pepper, onion and pita bread. This was already more than enough, but we couldn’t resist a bowl of crunchy Sweet potato fries with a piquant mango aioli.
Whether you’re visiting Cologne for the Christmas markets, Carnival or simply a weekend break, you’re sure to eat well in this convivial city.
All photos by Chérie City
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