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Designers, Fashion, London, London Fashion Week

LFW SS12: Jacob Kimmie at Vauxhall Fashion Scout

September 18, 2011 by cheriecity

Jacob Kimmie returns to Vauxhall Fashion Scout with ‘Rhapsody’, inspired by religion and the decorative opulence and restrained sexuality that is entwined. The stunning collection includes sheer monochrome, digital prints, full tulle skirts and of course, his signature bridal pieces.

He began the show with a sense of subtle, dark seduction that would continue through the whole collection. A slim-fitting black midi-length dress with cropped sleeves featured vertical mesh panels that revealed the contours of the body – an intelligent baring of the flesh.

Mesh and tulle full skirts, slim pencil skirts and black or cream palazzo pants were worn with sheer high-collared chiffon blouses with delicate ruffles.

A black satin dress that was reminiscent of those worn at a conservative communion was styled with a simple black veil and diamond crucifix – a striking, slightly eerie image.

The style of this simple dress with a light veil was continued but with an eye-catching dove print on the skirt – another religious symbol.

I couldn’t help noticing that the statuesque, mesmerising black models were sent down the runway in succession wearing garments from the same series.

A minor detail if we were talking about any other designer, but given the influence of Jacob Kimmie’s formative years spent in apartheid South Africa and the political context of his work, it’s possible that this was a conscious statement tied in closely with the concept of the collection.

Long sheer chiffon dresses, mere whispers of fabric, had a ghost-like movement and featured stunning digital prints in shades of black and grey, with one in a palette of soft reds – reminiscent of Ungaro at its best.

Jacob Kimmie’s Spring/Summer 2012 collection is a much more wearable than his earlier intricate, demi-couture laser-cut pieces and the silhouettes are more feminine than his avant-garde Autumn/Winter 2011 collection.

Perhaps this move towards a slightly more commercial, yet still edgy look could make Jacob Kimmie’s collections accessible to a wider audience and gain him the recognition that he truly deserves as one of London’s most talented, technically brilliant designers.

For more info and to see previous collections, visit: www.jacobkimmie.com

All photos by Chérie City.

Designers, Fashion, London, Shopping, Websites

Chérie Loves: Young British Designers

September 11, 2010 by cheriecity

It’s been the talk of London fashion circles all summer and finally, YoungBritishDesigners.com is here for us to shop to our hearts content.

As the same suggests, Young British Designers is dedicated to working with emerging designers who will really benefit from the support and exposure as they try to expand their labels.

Young designers can often be at a disadvantage, as customers just don’t know where to source their pieces, or the boutiques that stock them can be off the main shopping circuit.

So what better than to bring together all our fave new designers and showcase their clothing and accessories on one beautifully crafted and accessible website!

The first retail experience of its kind, Young British Designers backs designers in the formative years of their label and from different fashion pathways.

It showcases designers who have made their names through NEWGEN, ON | OFF, Estethica, Fashion Fringe, Vauxhall Fashion Scout, London Fashion Week and Arising.

Established womenswear designers include Danielle Scutt, Felder Felder, Kinder Aggugini, Olivia Rubin, Felicity Brown, LP.BG and Jasper Garvida.

Striped Mohair Coat by Danielle Scutt, £1420

Square T-Shirt Top in 100% Wool by LP.BG, £330
Olivia Rubin, Rose Belle Dress, £175

Young British Designers also promotes up-and-coming labels such as Ada Zanditon, Alice Palmer, Emesha, Simeon Farrar, Viking Wong, Minna, Jena.Theo, Julian J Smith and many more…

Agyness Dress by Ada Zanditon £127.50
Batman Dress by Alice Palmer, £600
Corseted Cocktail Dress by Emesha, £730

Accessories are a great way to invest in a new designer and the collection of jewellery, bags and leather goods at YBD are sure to make it onto a number of wishlists this season.

I love this embellished swallow necklace by Minna and am plotting ways to bag ever piece by Cabinet and Fannie Sciavoni’s oxidised steel ring body jewellery.

Bird Necklace by Minna, £112
Feathered Collective Pendant by Cabinet, £175
Cross Necklace by Fannie Sciavoni, £189

Leather Cuff by Felder Felder, £149
Grey Pin Tuck Oversize Clutch by Heidi Mottram, £264
Picasso Cuff by Lucy Hutchings, £324

YBD’s shoe collection is covetable enough to rival Manolo and Louboutin. Bionda Castana create elegant heels using the most luxurious materials, Sophie Gittins takes inspiration from architecture and Kinder Aggugini’s shoes were created exclusively for his catwalk show.

Nyla Shoes by Bionda Castana, £570
Khaki Romanza Peep Toe Boots by Sophie Gittins, £1123
Black Military Court Shoes by Kinder Aggugini, £480

The website is easy to navigate, with pieces divided into categories, and there is a dedicated designer section with detailed bios.

YBD highlights the fact that they are all emerging designers and you can sort through by fashion organisation such as Arise, LFW and Estethica. Making the experience even more interactive, YBD promotes its designers’ presence at London Fashion Week.

Some of the prices may be more than you would expect to pay for new designers, but the cost reflects the amount of work, fine detail and craftsmanship. There are a number of affordable pieces so you can have something unique and special without spending a fortune and support new design talent.

To see the full designer collection, visit www.youngbritishdesigners.com

Designers, Fashion, London, London Fashion Week

LFW Day 3: Harriet’s Muse presentation

February 22, 2010 by cheriecity

After spending the afternoon trawling around central London’s H&M stores for some serious Sonia Rykiel shopping, I headed back to Vauxhall Fashion Scout for the the Harriet’s Muse presentation. At first I thought I’d missed all the action, with fashion folk toasting a handful of dresses and a vacant gold backdrop.

About 20 minutes later, Sophie Anderton and two impossibly lithe models took part in a live photo shoot to showcase the garments. Sophie has been a regular on the front row at the Vauxhall Fashion Scout shows this season and is taking an interest in emerging designers.

Despite her ‘train wreck’ reputation, Sophie cut a statuesque, dignified figure in her photo shoot and showed off her amazing body with some angular poses. It seems like Sophie is making a statement this season by trying to shake off that tacky reality TV image and getting back to the industry that made her famous – fashion.

Harriet’s Muse was a wise choice of designer for Sophie to be associated with, as it’s strong, sexy and ultra feminine. The Autumn/Winter 10-11 collection, entitled Armoured & dangerous is inspired by the idea of body armour and the durable, abrasive shell of a beetle.

This is achieved through sharp tailoring, quilted textures and hand-embroidery in metallic thread. Each look had a different silhouette, focusing on pointed, jutted out hips, nipped in waists and volume around the legs.

The make-up was severe femme fatale (ignoring this season’s no mascara trend) and the messy up-dos with statement silver hair pins added to the spiky, insect-inspired aesthetic.

The asymmetric, scale-effect corsets were a great addition to otherwise very simple black party dresses. There appeared to be a few too many black cocktail dresses in somewhat unoriginal shapes that would have benefited from some more inspiring detailing or finishes from the designers.

Similarly, the deep teal silk dresses were beautifully cut, but they needed something extra, other than the lovely embroidered beetles to make them really stand out.

The highlight of the collection was the artfully tailored, belted tulip coat with asymmetric quilted detailing. It evokes 80s Yves Saint Laurent ‘Le Smoking’ and uses sophisticated draping with good use of volume.

This voluminous batwing dress also caught my attention for its minimal, Grecian silhouette. The shoulder bow lifts the garment and stops it becoming too dense. The dress was in deep contrast to the next look with a luxurious black satin corset and full skirt that just screamed seductive pirate girl.

Illustrator Stephen Stone was on hand to sketch the dresses and he even did some portraits of the audience before the show started. The minimal, fluid line drawings with lucid splashes of colour are so beautiful, I’d love to cover my walls in them!

Harriet’s Muse Autumn/Winter 10-11 collection is cohesive and somewhat commercial, with a strong focus on partywear. The use of luxurious fabrics and accomplished tailoring are designers Cheryl and Craig’s strong points and their following is sure to increase with this playful, vampy collection.

Designers, Fashion, London, London Fashion Week

LFW Day 3: Doii Paris at Vauxhall Fashion Scout

February 22, 2010 by cheriecity

It’s the third day into London Fashion Week and the majority of the fashion industy has swapped vertiginous heels and blazers for flat military boots and wool coats. Perhaps the sartorial shift had something to do with swapping Sunday morning in bed with coffee and the Sunday Times Style for a typically delayed show or the pouring rain outside, but the coquettish Doii Paris show quickly lifted everyone’s spirits.

This is the first time that Korean designer Doii Lee is showing at London Fashion Week and her show was arguably one of the prettiest, among a sea of asymmetric panel dresses.

Doii’s Autumn/Winter 10-11 collection was inspired by her favourite Russian fairytale, Babushka, and the folklore influences are present on all of the striking, bohemian pieces.

The first part of the collection was all about bold rose print dresses with translucent sequins, coats trimmed with white faux fur, rose covered headpieces and those shoes! These gorgeous cherry red, platform courts with printed silk ankle-tie were awarded their own post on The Fashion Scout daily blog, as they really are just so stunning!

The models looked impossibly fresh, with tumbling curls, red lips, rosy cheeks and dewy skin – no slicked-back androids there!

The Doii Paris collection reminds me very much of Blumarine’s colour-bursting prints, Moschino’s bold romanticism and KENZO’s crafted, patchwork-inspired detailing.

The purpose of the digital prints is to tell a story and Doii does this with playing cards, winter landscapes, skulls and even bottles of wine. It is a style also seen in Romeo Pires’ Spring/Summer 10 collection, which featured a collage of checkered flags, skeletons and apples.

The second part of the collection focused on an adorable coral, red and turquoise print depicting birds and monsters. The whimsical print featured on very feminine and wearable trench coats, romantic ruffle dresses and a full-length gown.

Next up was more detailed, abstract digital prints in floaty silk dresses and an Eastern kimono-style shift dresses panelled with grey jersey.

Then came the lace – a delicate lace party dress with a structured bodice (very Daisy Lowe), a lace wool two-tone coat and a 50s minimal lace dress with bell sleeves and contrasting printed detailing.

Metallics also featured with this dainty drop-waisted, printed dress with soft-spun gold cuffs and waistband and translucent sequins. Wool coats also got the Doii treatment, with colourful fabric-covered buttons, polka dot lapels, faux fur trims and printed tie-belts.

The show culminated with a model dressed in a black fur and embroidered print coat with an oversized fringed bonnet – very elegant, old world Parisian. I wonder if Doii took inspiration from that other stylish Parisian, the inimitable Diane Pernet, with her signature black veil…

Doii Lee graduated with BA Hons in Fashion Design and Knitwear from Central St Martins in 2002 and soon after started her career with John Galliano in Paris. The next year, she was approached by Antoni Marras, the new art director at KENZO, and worked for KENZO Défilé Studio.

She presented the first collection of Doii Paris during Paris Fashion Week, October 2006 and is now based in London. Doii’s work is so intricate, exquisitely tailored and optimistic, which is a real breath of fresh air this season!

* All photos by Chérie City

Designers, Fashion, London, London Fashion Week

LFW Day Two: Jacob Kimmie at Vauxhall Fashion Scout

February 21, 2010 by cheriecity

Jacob Kimmie’s show was one of the highlights of the Vauxhall Fashion Scout schedule and his collection was certainly the most dramatic, much helped by the spectacular Masonic Temple location.

The self-taught South-African designer’s monochrome A/W 10-11 collection, ‘Pilgrims’ was inspired by modern Aztec spirituality, Inca temples and religious rituals. The delicate ruffles and bright colours of previous seasons have been replaced with a strong, sleek and forceful interpretation of femininity.

The first section showed long, draped dresses with cut-away panels, ‘primitive’ pleats and faux layering – all in a palette of black. With plunging necklines and major leg splits, the dresses take on an unusual ‘seductive Puritan’ image.

Then came short, knife-pleat tunics with sequinned snoods and the most covetable, luxurious chunky knit, hooded coat (labelling it a cardigan seems like a big understatement). Some dresses were shadowed with veils of black tulle, giving the impression of a dark, serious bride.

The next phase was all about cream with pristine, linear wool coats adored with sumptuous feathers. Kimmie combined the ‘pilgrim’ influence with 60s minimalism, showing sober, sculptural dresses with long sleeves and luxurious draping.

The monochrome styling added to the dramatic effect, with the designer adding black cotton or sheer white tights and bare legs to transform the look. The models’ hair was scraped back into a plaited bun (another ‘primitive’ reference) and the make-up was all about heavy, black eyes, flawless skin and nude lips.

The finale saw a model in an intricately embellished silk and tulle bridal dress, carrying….a baby!! I know there’s been a lot of raised eyebrows over press and buyers bringing their kids to London Fashion Week, but this tiny tot actually made its way onto the catwalk.

Carried royally in a bespoke white leather harness, the baby was blissfully unfazed by the tribal drum music and stern-looking models, and seemed to be having a jolly old time.

Unless Jacob Kimmie is answering a calling for designing baby wear, which I very much doubt, I’d say that the presence of le bébé is rather a statement on concepts of pre-marital purity and religious ritual. This was probably lost on most of the crowd, as everyone seemed elated to see such a little cutie pie on the catwalk…and why not?

One of the most striking parts of the collection was the laser-cut leather masks and necklaces. Jacob Kimmie collaborated with leather artist, Ginta Siceva on the accessories and her incredible designs were on display at the LFW exhibition in Somerset House. Leather gloves were supplied by Aspinals of London and after the show, everyone was talking about those chunky knit arm warmers!

Jacob Kimmie’s work seems to be getting more conceptual and his A/W 10-11 collection has a much stronger impact than past seasons. It really is an exceptional collection, as it is simultaneously aggressive and romantic, striking and unified.

Kimmie has simplified certain aspects like colour and ornamentation and concentrated on texture and precision tailoring. By becoming more focused, his garments have adopted a new sophistication and significance.

All photos: JacobKimmie.com

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Designers, Fashion, London, London Fashion Week

LFW Day Two: Iris Van Herpen @ Vauxhall Fashion Scout

February 21, 2010 by cheriecity

Dutch designer Iris Van Herpen really knows how to create an atmosphere, from the cinematic, industrial music down to the models’ other-worldly, meditative expression. The attention to detail is absolutely mesmerising.

Iris Van Herpen left a lasting impression on me from last season’s Blow Presents… show and her Autumn/Winter 10-11 collection, ‘Synesthesia’ succeeded once again in leaving me temporarily speechless.

‘Synesthesia’ describes a state of dual cognitive senses, such as hearing colour, smelling motion or feeling sound and this perplexing condition characterises Iris Van Herpen’s Autumn/Winter 10-11 collection.

The winding knots, twists and volume of the leatherwork creates a trompe l’oeil effect and manipulates the senses.

Iris Van Herpen is a true fashion architect and her sculptural garments are painstakingly intricate and beautifully crafted. She creates those long, slinky strips using metallic leather and continues to work with Ecco Leather.

The Autumn/Winter 10-11 palette centres around bronze, gold, taupe, nude and black and dark purple, with many of the garments creating a two-tone effect. Her dresses externalise the inner bodily composition while exaggerating the female form with voluminous hips, curved busts and nipped in waists.

The accompanying look of the models was lucid and clinical with bleached eyebrows, pale glossy faces and milky lips and eyes. The cloud-like angel hair was styled by James Brown and added to their look of just being hatched from a laboratory pod.

After graduating from ARTEZ Institute of Arts in 2006, Iris Van Herpen assisted Viktor & Rolf and Alexander McQueen. She’s obviously taken inspiration from both designers’ artistic concept mixed with semi-couture detailing.

Iris Van Herpen brings drama, concept and intrigue to London Fashion Week and her shows continue to be among the most fixating, intense and awe-inspiring.

* All photos by: Chérie City

Designers, Fashion, London, London Fashion Week

Gemma Slack A/W 10 presentation @ Vauxhall Fashion Scout

February 19, 2010 by cheriecity

Gemma Slack showed her A/W 2010 collection in a presentation at Vauxhall Fashion Scout, complete with a promotional film and a live performance from Chew Lips.

For Gemma’s third collection, the silver tribal collars and oriental hats of Spring/Summer 10 have been replaced with draped gold chains and intricate facial jewellery – a collaboration between Gemma and Katie Rowland Jewellery called Rowland Vs. Slack.

Black leather panelled and sheer body con dresses continue the super heroine, gothic aesthetic, but they are less structured and certainly more wearable than last season’s rigid silver cone skirts.

For the winter season, Gemma has worked with more texture, using wool and embossed leather.

There are references to Jean-Paul Gaultier’s exaggerated femininity with the integrated suspender belt, structured bustiers and ‘pierced nipples’ holding up a layer of diaphanous chiffon.

Gemma Slack’s woman is part fierce biker girl and part elegant vamp. Many of the pieces are actually based on classic tailoring, like the asymmetric, long black dress and the sculptural tulip skirt.

The Autumn/Winter 10 collection doesn’t make such an intense impact as the last season’s but it’s the attention to details like leather-trimmed hems and the contrast between the fuzzy and smooth fabrics that really appeal.

There’s a bit of Gareth Pugh (Gemma’s one-time mentor) in the cropped jacket with an almost blow-up leather collar and the jumper with studded elbow pads echoes Ashish.

Despite the Catwoman and 80s references, Gemma Slack’s pieces are very modern and simultaneously complement and fetishise the female body. It would have been great to see the garments on female models, as the sheer panels and cut-away sections leave some styling questions. Plus, it would make the clothes look even damn sexier!

All photos: Cherie City

Designers, Events, Fashion, London

Romeo Pires Spring/Summer 10 @ LFW

October 5, 2009 by cheriecity

Romeo Pires’ Spring/Summer 10 show kicked off with cosmos and mojitos, which is always better than queuing in the rain. This is design duo Nicholas Humphrey and Sergio Pires’ second collection at LFW and they picked up where they left off last season with their signature art-inspired graphic prints.

The collection featured diaphanous silk collared shirt dresses and jumpsuits, beginning with monochrome and graduating into colour-bursting prints.

The monochrome pieces showed a more feminine, dreamy take on a tuxedo and skeleton prints were also featured.

The second part of the collection saw graphic colour prints emblazoned with checkerboards, apples, Roy Lichtenstein-inspired tableaux, mystical swirls and geometric blocks.

The majority of the collection was created using silk and includes sheer blouses, tailored shorts and beautifully draped jumpsuits. A perfectly wearable and cohesive Spring/Summer collection if ever there was!

Designers, Events, Fashion, London, London Fashion Week, News

Vauxhall Fashion Scout at LFW SS10

September 22, 2009 by cheriecity

I wish I’d got to see more Vauxhall Fashion Scout shows this season – I did catch Bryce d’Anice Aime and Romeo Pires – but sadly you can’t be everywhere at once.

The Bryce show was absolutely packed with people even standing on the ledges to get a better view. I loved the kind of hush-hush, secret society vibe of the Freemasons Hall – such an interesting venue!

Bryce d'Anice Aime

Bryce’s Spring/Summer 10 collection combined chic, 50s Parisian style with a contemporary ‘London body-con’ look and futuristic detailing. This season’s woman has grown up and is a sophisticated bombshell with a whole lot of attitude.

Bryce d'Anice Aime

The collection was divided into 3 different styles – he kicked off with sheer structured dresses, a panelled bodysuit adorned with some fierce Lady Gaga-esque fabric spikes, all in a palette of black and gold-spun beige. The next look was a lot softer and more playful with two-tone dresses featuring a gorgeous bold circle print. They still had the obligatory statement shoulders and the spikes ran through the collection. The last instalment focused on the black body-con dress and skirt suit in stretch satin with beautifully draped red chiffon. There were also flashes of glittering pillarbox red on the skirts and leggings.

Thanks to Fashion Mongers for use of Bryce d’Anice Aime catwalk images.