Newcastle has always been known for its oustanding Indian restaurants, and more recently its game-changing street food eateries, so the recent opening of Khai Khai was full of promise.
While Tier Three restrictions last December put Khai Khai’s initial opening on hold, the restaurant pushed forward with a popular take-away service and launched an ‘at home’ range on the deli counter at Fenwick Food Hall.
With an established fan base and glowing reviews, Khai Khai finally opened at the end of May and I was thrilled to be able to book a table to celebrate my birthday. Perhaps news also reached Hollywood, as just this week, Harrison Ford stopped by for lunch while filming Indiana Jones 5 in the North East.
Khai Khai occupies a prime spot on upscale Queen Street, just off the Quayside, and is set across two floors of a beautiful Victorian grade II listed building, nestled among exotic plants. Inside is just as impressive with earth-toned interiors, cosy leather booths, smoked marble tables and flashes of neon, designed by creative agency Run For The Hills.
Khai Khai explores the art of ‘smoke play’, offering heritage Indian comfort food cooked over hot stones, coals and wood fires. You can experience time-honoured favourites from diverse regions such as Delhi, Kolkata and Lucknow.
Owner Jaf Ali (director of local favourite Dabbawal) has worked closely with renowned Michelin-starred chef Alfred Prasad to evoke the nostalgic flavours of his grandma’s kitchen with game-changing cooking techniques.
We were shown to a lovely table at the centre of the Heritage Room and ordered from the early evening menu, boasting a generous selection of the restaurant’s signature dishes for £16 per person.
To start, we shared the most delicious Chicken 65 – crispy, tender fried chicken with a subtle kick, served with a cooling chive yogurt dip. Onion and samphire bhaji was the best I’ve ever had and the chilli garlic dip was a great match. They almost had the texture of a rosti with super-fine strands of golden, deep-fried onion and the addition of samphire was an inspired choice.
Old Delhi butter chicken has to be my all-time favourite curry and Khai Khai’s was insanely good. The chicken tikka kebabs are cooked in both a traditional tandoor oven and a josper oven to get an extra smoky flavour, then smothered in an aromatic tomato sauce with herb butter – perfection!
A wonderful contrast was the Grilled seabass – a substantial pan-grilled fillet with lots of flavour and crispy skin, sat atop a vibrant yet mellow, slightly sweet Kerala moilee sauce and fresh spinach poriyal.
The mains also came with fluffy steamed Basmati rice, some punchy Tadka yellow lentils and moreish, bubbly naan. I couldn’t resist ordering an extra naan to mop up all of that lovely, rich sauce.
From the all-day menu, you can also indulge in dishes such as Achari tiger prawn, Josper lamb chops, Dumm Gosht Biryani, Gunpowder chips and all different kinds of naan and pulao rice. For the ultimate decadence, Khai Khai will take care of your entire table with the Chef’s Feast at £35 per person.
If you manage to find room, there’s Josper-grilled pineapple for dessert, as well as luscious, smoke-inspired cocktails and spicy masala chai.
Khai Khai was just as fabulous as expected, with delightful staff, efficient service and exquisite food. I can’t wait to return and try some more dishes.
For more information and booking, visit: www.khaikhai.co.uk
Food photos by Chérie City (interiors via Run For The Hills for Khai Khai).
