Paris | cheriecity.co.uk

A Wonderful Weekend in Paris

April 2, 2022 by cheriecity

Throughout lockdown, I longed for the familiar pleasures of walking the streets of Paris. Stopping at a boulangerie for freshly-baked pastries, an indulgent bistro dinner of steak frites and spending hours exploring a museum.

At the end of last year (pre-Omicron travel madness), my wish was granted and I spent a magical few days in the French capital with my mum. The streets were noticably quieter than usual, apart from the crowded Champs-Élysées, but it still felt like the same, charming Paris.

Here are some of the fantastic places we visited on this whirlwind trip…

La Samaritaine

Our first stop was La Samaritaine, the iconic Pont-Neuf department store that reopened last summer after being closed for over 16 years. LVMH has transformed the historic 19th century building from a bazaar selling everything under the sun to a shimmering temple of luxury. It really is spectacular!

All of the top tier designer brands are there, as you would expect, but what makes the store stand out is its modern, playful approach, with the quirky Boutique de Loulou lifestyle shop, the incredible beauty hall filled with cult products and cute patisserie counters by Bogato and Dalloyau.

We met my friend Coralie for a long-overdue coffee at Parisienne, a casual cafe by Petit Plisson with classic French pastries and light salads. It’s a great spot to know about for a quick refuel.

We stayed until the early evening and then walked along the Seine, over to the Left Bank for dinner.

La Laiterie Sainte Clotilde

La Laiterie Sainte Clotilde on Rue de Bellechasse is a gorgeous little bistro by Jean-Baptiste Varenne, housed in a former dairy. It’s a real neighbourhood gem with a mostly Parisian crowd and lovely staff who really look after you well.

To start, we had a creamy, velvety Pumpkin soup and a punchy Roasted cauliflower with harissa – both were full of flavour and well-seasoned.

We couldn’t resist the tender, juicy Steak with peppercorn sauce and sautéed baby potatoes. It was a classic done exceedingly well with very high quality meat, a moreish sauce and more crispy potatoes than you could ever ask for.

Dessert was an indulgent Gateau ‘Chardon’ au chocolat, which had a rich yet light fondant texture inside. I would definitely visit again, as it’s an interesting yet dependable place for a good dinner, however I’d be keen to try the weekday lunch set menu at 30 Euros for 3 courses.

Thierry Mugler: Couturissime

Fashion exhibitons at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs are always spectacular and I’m so pleased we had the opportunity to see the most recent opening, Thierry Mugler: Couturissime. This major exhibition explores the couturier’s stellar career with works dating from 1973 to 2014. It feels especially poignant and vital since his passing in January this year.

The world of Mugler is truly glamorous and exotic, which the curator has expertly captured across both floors. Be prepared to be wowed by rows of mannequins in cutting-edge ready-to-wear, sculptural haute couture and iconic stage costumes worn by the likes of Beyoncé, Lady Gaga, Linda Evangelista and Jerry Hall.

The exhibition has an immersive feel with scene-setting light and soundscapes and a subtle trail of the famous fragrance ANGEL, complete with an enormous, diamond-encrusted bottle to admire.

You can also delve deeper with rare photographs signed by Guy Bourdin, Helmut Newton and Ellen von Unwerth, as well as unpublished archives and mesmerising films of pivotal catwalk shows.

I could have easily spent hours there, but we were also keen to see the Cartier Islamic Arts exhibition just across the hall. It featured the most dazzling fine jewellery with enormous diamonds and gems, ancient sculptures and miniature paintings.

Café de Flore

For a moment of Paris nostalgia, we headed over to the Left Bank for a light lunch at the historic Café de Flore on Boulevard Saint-Germain. After a bit of queuing we were seated at one of the coveted terrace tables – perfect for indulging in the time-honoured sport of people watching.

While the location is undeniably fabulous, the excruciatingly long wait to be served and the unexpectedly bland Soupe a l’oignon gratinée made it my least favourite meal of the trip. Next time I’ll play it safe and stick to the excellent chocolat chaud and tarte tatin.

La Grande Épicerie

The afternoon still ended on a sweet note with a sweep around La Grande Épicerie, the magnificent food hall at Le Bon Marché department store on Rue de Sèvres. We refuelled over an exquisite Tarte framboise and Praline cake and pots of Earl Grey tea from the patisserie.

Paris food halls are an absolute joy and this one is widely regarded as the best in town. Every time I visit, I promise myself to book an apartment for a week and cook with these exquisite ingredients.

Aux Crus de Bourgogne

After some more shopping and strolling around the Left Bank, we headed to the lively Montorgueil quarter for dinner at Aux Crus de Bourgogne on Rue Bachaumont. This historic bistro was revived by new owners Jérôme and Stéphane Dumant in 2019 and is known for its regional French gastronomy cooking and Burgundy wines.

It was once a haunt of writer and cultural minister André Malraux, although today you could imagine Wes Anderson perched at a table, scouting his next filming location.

The return of the great French brasserie (a trend bubbling away in Paris over the last few years) really satisfies the craving for familiarity and rollicking good times, especially in this age of uncertainty. This is definitely something you can find here, feasting on hearty Lyonnaise dishes and having a laugh with the most charming waiters in Paris.

We had the most fantastic Poulet au vin jaune & morilles, which was served in a rustic copper pot with spongey morels to soak up the rich, creamy sauce. Coq au vin was equally indulgent and boozy with the finest farm-style chicken that you can only seem to find in France and ribbons of fresh tagliatelle.

For dessert, we did the unthinkable and ordered Mousse au chocolat & Madeleine twice, just in case it wasn’t so sharable. Little did we know that it would be a monster-sized mousse filling an entire Le Creuset pot with two giant madeleines. However, I don’t regret a thing, as it was so thick and velvety and the madeleines were crispy and golden, straight from the oven – a moment of absolute heaven!

Montmartre

We made the most of a bright and sunny morning and climbed up the millions of stairs to the Sacré-Cœur. It was lovely to explore Montmartre and follow the winding, cobbled paths and spotting pretty landmarks like Le Lapin Agile, Place du Tertre, Le Consulat, Place Dalida and La Maison Rose.

A new discovery was Vignes du Clos, an urban winery on a sunny hillside in Montmartre. Paris’ oldest vineyard was created as a green space by the City of Paris in 1933 to protect the plot of land from being developed.

It’s generally closed to the public, but in October, the vineyard opens the gates for guided tours as part of the city’s Fête des Vendanges (a five-day grape harvest festival).

Hotel Amour

After such arduous hill climbing, we were ready for lunch at Hotel Amour, one of my old favourites in Pigalle. It always has a good vibe and sitting at a table overlooking the garden is just delightful.

We both managed to squeeze in one last Steak frites and it was a winner (although I would have liked it to come with a sauce).

Galeries Lafayette Gourmet

Our last stop of the trip was the wonderful Galeries Lafayette Gourmet, which has changed a lot since I last visited. The most exciting part for me is the deli, bakery and patisserie section that takes up almost the entire ground floor.

It was a chance to load up on baked goods from Babka Zana, a cute bakery in the 9th arrondissement that has a counter here. We tried the sticky, delicious Babka rolls in rich Chocolate hazelnut and fragrant Pistachio and orange blossom flavours.

It was also a good call to bring home a large Babka cake, packaged majestically in a pastel pink and gold box, to keep the Paris memories going.

Hotel Keppler

Our home for the weekend was the elegant Hotel Keppler, designed by Pierre-Yves Rochon, located in a Haussmanian building on a quiet street just off the Champs-Élysées.

The hotel features 48 guest rooms and suites (some with balconies and Eiffel Tower views), plus two cosy library lounges and a fitness room and sauna.

Our Executive Room was bright and comfortable with timeless black, white and vibrant yellow accents. The large marble bathroom had a TV in the mirror, a powerful shower and bathtub, fluffy bathrobes and slippers and a full set of Hermès Eau D’Orange Verte bathroom products.

Breakfast was served downstairs overlooking the leafy private courtyard and everything was excellent. The buffet was petite but full of high quality items like scrambled eggs and crispy bacon, pancakes and crepes, cured meats and salmon, French cheese, luxury yoghurt and fruit juice. You can also order fresh eggs and omelettes cooked to order.

The lovely staff took good care of us, serving freshly-made coffee and tea and a basket of pastries and baguette to our table. It was the highlight of our stay and definitely worth booking.

We didn’t spend much time in the hotel on this trip, as we were out exploring from morning to night, but it was still a very enjoyable stay.

Have you been to Paris recently? Where are your favourite places to visit?

All photos by Chérie City

Hotels, Paris

A Luxury Stay at Parister Hotel, Paris

February 13, 2018 by cheriecity

Paris has no shortage of luxury design hotels, but Parister Hotel offers something quite different to the rest. This new hotel in the hip 9th arrondissement may appear typically Parisian with its Haussmannian facade, but inside it has some striking architectural surprises.

Opened just a few months ago by hotelier Nicolas Nonon, the 45-room Parister Hotel is a forward-thinking five star urban retreat with all the lifestyle amenities that travellers want for a comfortable city break. In particular, what really takes the hotel to the next level is its focus on wellness, going far beyond your average hotel spa facilities with a dedicated high-tech fitness floor.

Design

The building, designed by architectural firm Beckman N’Thépé, comprises two buildings – traditional and new – with a leafy courtyard showcasing its Brutalist splendor as a focal point. As expected, concrete plays a prominent role in the hotel’s look, which interior designer Céline Boullenger cleverly offsets with tactile velvets and touches of opulent brass and dark green marble. The interiors are also complemented by interesting artworks lent by Galerie Kamel Mennour.

The sprawling lobby has plenty of cosy nooks for relaxing or working and in place of the typical hotel restaurant is cocktail bar Les Passerelles (run by Le Distrait), which offers a simple lunch menu and room service. It’s also the place where you can enjoy a Parisian breakfast from the comfort of a cosy banquette or outside on the terrace.

The Suite

Check-in was friendly and efficient and I was shown to a beautiful Junior Suite on the third floor. The generously-sized suite had a contemporary luxury feel with a sleek cream sofa, warm wood features, heavy blue velvet curtains, mood lighting, plush cream carpet and a shimmering blue and green statement wall.

Room features include a 40-inch interactive TV, a cool Marshall bluetooth speaker, complimentary use of a Smartphone, Nespresso machine with espresso capsules and Dammann Frères tea, large bottles of filtered still and sparkling water.

A choice of one king-size bed or a double-twin was offered and I was so impressed with the quality of the bed – firm and high with many layers of support. There were also more pillows and cushions than you could ever ask for, as well as a monogrammed wool throw, giving it that extra touch of indulgence.

The spacious bathroom, covered in calming blue tiles, was truly impressive with a powerful walk-in rain shower, large bathtub, double sink, fluffy bathrobes and stylish black slippers, flip flops for the spa and Zenology ‘Fycus Sycomorus’ botanical bathroom products.

It’s worth mentioning that for its size, Parister Hotel offers a wide range of room categories, from the lead-in Superior Room through to a Duplex with private hammam and Suite with a terrace. This makes it both accessible for a short weekend break and desirable for a real blow-out stay.

The Swimming Pool

My Parisian friend Coralie joined me for a swim and breakfast, so we headed down to the basement in our robes for some relaxation. The mosaic-tiled hammam was pristine and ever so hot and we loved the 18-metre-long pool, which was perfect for swimming laps. It was a lovely chill-out space with loungers, plants and cool French music – you could easily spend an hour or so there.

Parister Hotel has also partnered with Parisian exercise company CYD (Conquer Your Day) to offer six wellness classes per day in the impressive basement gym studio. Classes range from high-energy boxing and cross-training to calming yoga and pilates, plus there is a special programme for children. However, if you prefer to get outdoors and explore the city, you can rent complimentary bicycles directly from the hotel.

Breakfast

We enjoyed a classic high quality Parisian breakfast in Les Passerelles and found it a peaceful and stylish place to plan our day ahead. You can have eggs to order as well as the buffet with hot scrambled eggs and bacon, fresh baguette with artisanal butter, flaky pastries with Alain Milliat jams, cereal, French set yoghurts and fresh berries.

Location

Parister Hotel’s location is a real asset – it’s just 12-minutes walk from the Eurostar terminal at Gare du Nord and Cadet metro stop is just at the top of the street. The famous Folies Bergère, Palais Garnier, Galeries Lafayette and the Musée de la Vie Romantique are all in the neighbourhood.

Foodies are also well-served with some great restaurants on the doorstep such as Abri, Le Yacht Club, Nanashi and Richer, plus stylish cafes like PEONIES and Cafe Marlette. It’s also on the cusp of ‘Veggietown’, the quarter named for its flurry of vegetarian and vegan eateries.

Parister Hotel is the ideal base if you want the privacy of a boutique hotel with extra facilities that really enhance your stay. It’s the kind of unique hotel that makes a trip to Paris that little bit sweeter.

For more information and booking, visit: www.paristerhotel.com

Chérie City was a guest of Parister Hotel

All photos by Chérie City

Paris

Beautiful Famous Film Locations in Paris

January 12, 2018 by cheriecity

Does strolling around Paris ever make you feel like you’re in the movies? The city of lights has been captured on screen countless times, from François Truffaut’s New Wave classic The 400 Blows to the bittersweet Le Weekend.

Last time I was in Paris, we passed by no less than three film sets on the streets and were even asked to appear as extras in a short film! There are so many famous set locations that you could easily pick spots from your favourite films and create your own ‘seen on screen’ tour.

Here are a few unmissable Paris sights for film buffs…

Hôtel Plaza Athénée

Carrie Bradshaw may not have found love in Paris, but she did live like a queen for a few weeks at Hôtel Plaza Athénée.

Even if you can’t make it up to the Carrie Suite with the balcony overlooking the Eiffel Tower, you can have a glass of champagne in the leafy courtyard or tea in the chic salon where she meets Aleksandr Petrovsky and his daughter Chloé. For Sex and the City fans, experiencing Hôtel Plaza Athénée is a real must-see!

Le Nemours

Just a few steps away from the Palais-Royal on Place Colette, Le Nemours is one of Paris’ best-known terrace cafes. Angelina Jolie took her morning coffee here in The Tourist with Johnny Depp and hysteria levels peaked when Brad Pitt joined her on set.

As well as being a prime spot for people-watching, Le Nemours serves a great Croque Madame and Parisian café crème.

Canal Saint-Martin

Arguably, the greatest love letter to Paris is Amélie and while much of the action takes place in Montmartre, it’s worth making a pilgrimage to the Canal Saint-Martin.

This is where young Amélie and her mother set free Cachalot, the suicidal goldfish, and she returns as an adult to skip stones across the water. It’s also a fun spot to go for drinks and dinner or sit and watch the world go by when the weather is warm.

River Seine

Romance is always in the air in Paris but Before Sunset (starring Julie Delpy and Ethan Hawke) is far from your typical saccharine love story. Jesse and Celine meander through the streets of Paris passionately discussing life and their journey takes them through the Promenade plantée, the hip Marais neighbourhood and even a boat cruise on the River Seine.

I’ve shared a few more Paris locations from Before Sunset over on Travel Republic for following in the footsteps of Jesse and Celine and possibly finding love in Paris.

Place de la Concorde

Remember the scene in The Devil Wears Prada when Andy can’t handle any more of Miranda Priestly and jumps out of the car? Well, that was at the Place de la Concorde, probably the busiest and craziest traffic spots in central Paris. It’s also one of Paris’ most majestic areas, leading from the Tuileries Garden straight to the Arc de Triomphe at the top of the Champs-Élysées.

What are your favourite movies set in Paris? I’m excited to check out more film locations in Paris during my trip at the end of the month.

Post in collaboration with Travel Republic

All photos by Chérie City

Paris

Five Top Paris Hotspots To Visit Now

November 26, 2017 by cheriecity

On my recent trip to Paris, I discovered some great new places and got reacquainted with some old favourites. It’s impossible to tick everything off the wish list – I still need to try Holiday Cafe and see the new Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris – but here are a few places to visit when you’re next in the city of lights…

Go Italian at Pink Mamma

Big Mamma Group has become quite an institution in Paris with seven trattorias and bars across the city. Pink Mamma in Pigalle is probably the most popular of all its outposts, with Parisians and clued-up visitors flocking there for the authentic Italian food, lively atmosphere and stunning interiors.

Designed by Martin Brudnizki this fabulous pink-tiled townhouse features unique dining spaces across four floors with open kitchens, marble counter seating and cosy corners. The most coveted spot, however, is the rooftop garden and we were lucky enough to find a seat there at lunchtime.

Pink Mamma’s signature dish is its rich and creamy truffle pasta served in a copper pan, but for a lighter lunch we went for a selection of antipasti to share. Highlights were the Burrata with green olives and tarragon, fresh and cool Mozzarella, a generous portion of flavourful Jambon di Parma and moreish Arancini filled with sweet, tangy tomato-infused rice and sausage.

With such delicious food (at very reasonable prices), it’s tempting to work your way around the Big Mamma restaurants and try as much of the menu as possible. The Fiorentina steak looked seriously impressive!

Brunch at Season

I first spotted Season on Instagram and was curious to see if the food was as mouth-watering as it looked. Season is a rarity in Paris, as you can tuck into comforting dishes like pancakes, Shakshuka and gourmet sandwiches, from early morning to as late as 1am – what could be better than that!

I enjoyed a delightful Avocado tartine with perfectly poached eggs and sesame-dressed leaves. However, Steven ordered the winner – Egg sandwich with Noglu gluten-free bread, fried egg, crispy onions, bacon, tomato and red chilli jam, baby spinach and avocado. It was substantial and full of flavour, plus the tomato chilli jam was a real game-changer.

Season is walk-in only, so try and avoid peak times to score a table – it’s definitely worth it!

Be Bowled Over at Nous

Dinner at Nous was a happy accident, as we arrived to meet a friend at new opening Le Yacht Club (from the folk behind Les Niçois) and found it was packed full for hours even on a Monday night. We’d spotted Nous earlier in the day, as it was just around the corner from Hotel Bienvenue, so maybe it was meant to be.

Nous has three restaurants in the 9th and 10th arrondissements and offers healthy and tasty organic dishes inspired by street food. Steven and I both had the Roast chicken bowl with rice, houmous and salad with a choice of yoghurt and mint or satay sauce and Coralie enjoyed the Curry bowl of the day.

They were all so tasty, nourishing and plentiful and the restaurant had a bright and calm vibe so we could chat easily. In all, a good find that I’d return to for some healthy comfort food.

Say Goodbye to Colette

Colette, the iconic concept store on the rue St-Honoré is closing on 20th December and to say it feels like the end of an era is an understatement. Opened by Colette Rousseaux and her daughter Sarah Andelman in 1997, Colette revolutionised retail, championing young fashion and lifestyle brands and bringing rare labels to Paris.

Its collaborations have always been epic and during our visit, the downstairs Water Bar had been transformed into a Sant Ambroeus pop-up with sentimental decorative plates from the store’s key partners over the years. We even caught a glimpse of Madame Colette herself tending to a customer ever so graciously in the beauty department.

Whether you’re a fan of Colette or not, its influence can’t be denied and the Saint Laurent store arriving in its places seems unlikely to fill the void.

J’Adior le Musée des Arts Décoratifs

If you can’t make it over to Paris in time to pay your respects to Colette, try and visit before 7th January to catch Christian Dior, Couturier des Rêves at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs.

This truly memorable exhibition celebrates the 70th anniversary of the creation of the House of Dior and the couturiers who succeeded the great master. It features over 300 haute couture gowns as well as accessories, shoe, perfume bottles, illustrations, sketches and vintage fashion advertisements.

The curation is meticulous and chronological, with a room of colour-coded Dior artefacts leading to a parade of Dior’s most recognised dresses from the red carpet and current designer Maria Grazia Chiuri’s radical, monochrome looks for today’s cool and socially-conscious Dior woman.

Most impressive, however, is the exquisite ballroom scene in the nave of the building, where the most spectacular gowns are complemented by dazzling lights and the gilded opulence of this never-seen-before room.

The exhibition is real treat for fashion lovers and perhaps the strongest that the museum has ever hosted. Leave a few hours to fully explore and then go for tea at Angelina nearby.

Where are your favourite Paris hotspots? What’s on your Paris wish list?

All photos by Chérie City

Hotels, Paris

A Wonderful Stay at The Hoxton Paris

October 20, 2017 by cheriecity

The Hoxton Paris is one of the hottest hotel openings of the year and it has quickly become what is known as a ‘bonne adresse’ among stylish Parisians.

I’ve long been a fan of The Hoxton and have watched the affordable London hotel brand grow from just one pioneering hotel in Shoreditch to properties in London, Amsterdam, Paris and soon Williamsburg, Los Angeles and Chicago.

Since opening in August, The Hoxton Paris has followed the same path of attracting a local crowd as well as savvy travellers (surely what every prominent hotel wants). In fact, a Parisian friend told us that the hotel’s Rivié restaurant is so popular right now that it’s proving near impossible to book a table. Thankfully The Hoxton Paris managed to squeeze us in for a night so we could see what all the buzz is about.

Location

The Hoxton Paris is located in a magnificent 18th century ‘hotel particulier’, neatly tucked away on rue du Sentier. This central area in the second arrondissement has in recent years become Paris’ tech start-up hub and is known as ‘Silicon Sentier’.

With cool spots nearby such as Gregory Marchand’s Frenchie To Go, L’Appartement Sézanne and Stoney Clove Bakery from American videographer Philip Andelman and pastry chef Beth Beji, it’s no wonder the lifestyle-focused hotel set roots here.

Check-In

Arriving through the grand door of The Hoxton Paris, you get an instant feel for the atmosphere, meandering through the lofty lobby bar and a cosy salon with a verdant living wall to get to the petite reception desk. The staff are super-efficient and speedy, but if you arrive at a busy time, there’s an adjoining library for relaxing (or Instagramming its sweeping staircase).

The Room

The hotel boasts 172 rooms across four floors, from the weekender-friendly Shoebox (not actually that small) to the generously-sized Biggy. Our Cosy Room (the second room category up) on the second floor was an absolute delight – the spirit of London combined with very Parisian interiors.

The high ceilings and large windows overlooking the atrium gave it an airy feel and I loved the ink blue walls, chevron timber floors and mood lighting. Room features include a glossy red-topped writing desk, half-length wardrobe (a little too small), large LCD TV, retro Roberts radio, comfy armchair, a tall statement mirror (that the internet says looks like an iPhone X) and a selection of French books.

The queen-size bed, complete with leather headboard cushions, was extremely comfortable and covered with checked linen that not only looked the part but felt very luxurious. It’s also worth mentioning that the room was very quiet and well sound-proofed, so there shouldn’t be any disturbances for a good night’s sleep.

Those who have stayed in other Hoxton hotels will recognise signatures such as the tea and coffee facilities with collectable Hoxton mugs that you can buy at the lobby shop, a free minibar with mineral water and milk and a handy curated guide to the local area.

Breakfast

Another perk was the light and healthy complimentary breakfast bag, which was filled with a luxurious granola yoghurt pot, freshly-squeezed orange juice and a banana and left outside of our door at the requested time – a brilliant idea!

The bathroom was also stunning with white metro tiles, blue graphic print floor, a walk-in shower with rose-tinted copper fixtures, thick cotton towels and a full set of really nice aromatic Bl_nk bathroom products.

It’s not the most private of bathrooms, with frosted glass between the shower and the bedroom, but I think we’re all used to this trend now in most new hotels.

Dinner at Rivié

That evening we dined at Rivié, the hotel’s modern French brasserie that reminded me a little of London’s Hoxton Grill. The restaurant features an open kitchen, leather banquettes and stylish counter seating, as well as the lively courtyard terrace.

We started with a refreshing Hoxton Mule cocktail and some tasty Gougères with mustard beer dip. My main dish of Baby chicken with onion purée, crispy new potatoes and herb chicken jus was out of this world – so tender, crispy and rich.

Steven’s Entrecote (250g) was deliciously succulent and smokey, served with golden frites and a generous pot of tangy, lightly whipped béarnaise. Be sure to order a side of Mac and cheese – it was just heavenly, with lots of melted Gruyère and a herby flavour.

For dessert, we shared a Tarte tatin with Chantilly cream and caramel, which was a spin on the French classic dessert, and some very British Earl Grey before rolling back to our room. If scoring a table in the restaurant is proving difficult, the lobby lounge is also a part of Rivié and includes a lighter bar menu of sliders, truffle fries and a traditional Croque Monsieur.

The Hoxton Paris is an impressive, vibrant place to eat, drink and sleep in an up-and-coming part of the city. If you appreciate great design, a hip lobby scene and sumptuous comfort food, this is where you should call home in Paris.

Shoebox Rooms at The Hoxton Paris start from just 99 Euros per night (a Cosy Room starts from 149 Euros per night). For more information and booking, visit: www.thehoxton.com

Chérie City was a guest of The Hoxton Paris

All photos by Chérie City

Hotels, Paris

A Great Stay at Hotel Adèle & Jules Paris

January 3, 2017 by cheriecity

On my recent trip to Paris, I arrived early on the Eurostar to spend the afternoon with my Parisian friend Coralie. Steven joined later after work and so we had plenty of time for shopping and gossiping, just like the old days when we used to live in the same city.

For my stylish base in Paris, I was charmed by Hotel Adèle & Jules, a new four-star boutique hotel in the hip ninth arrondissement and booked my one-night stay through Expedia.

Coralie met me at the hotel and we headed out so she could take me around some of her favourite spots nearby and in the Marais. Here are a few great addresses to check out when visiting Paris…

L’Appartement Sézane

Our first stop was the Sézane Apartment, the hip concept store by designer Morgane Sézalory. Sézane began as an online fashion brand and the townhouse apartment in the second arrondissement beautifully showcases its offering.

We filled our Christmas wish lists with Parisian chic clothes, stylish ankle boots and leather handbags. There’s also a homeware section with guest lifestyle brands as well as exclusive Sézane collaborations. Be sure to visit the petite cafe for a quick coffee on the go.

Leon & Harper

The shopping continued at Leon & Harper, just a few doors down from merci in the Marais. It’s a lesser-known brand than the likes of Sandro and Maje and its style is indie and cosy with a few quirky pieces like embroidered tees, Tyrolean-style knitwear and denim pinafore dresses. The geometic and delicate gold jewellery is also on point and hard to resist.

Rachel’s Grocery

This new opening from Rachel’s Pont aux Choux restaurant is the American deli that you dream of having in your neighbourhood. Rachel became known in Paris for her amazing cheesecake and diner classics and now the grocery offers all of these delights to take away. You can find proper New York hot dogs, home-made mac n cheese, toasted bagels, hard-to-find American food products and of course the famous cheesecake.

Maison Plisson

Another must for gourmands is the glorious food emporium Maison Plisson. Often referred to as the Dean and Deluca of Paris, this food temple features a gourmet deli, charcuterie and cheese counter, wine cellar, bakery, cafe and terrace.

It’s the perfect spot for a glass of wine with small bites in the evening or an indulgent weekend brunch. You might also find it hard to pass the bakery without picking up a little something – the chocolate baguette is just heavenly.

Breizh Cafe

Breizh Cafe is a real Marais institution, where you can find authentic Breton crêpes and galettes at a reasonable price. You might imagine that it originated in France, but in fact, chef and restaurateur Bertrand Larcher opened his first crêperie in Japan and it has since expanded naturally to Paris, Cancale and Saint-Malo.

It’s a really cosy spot, with the feel of a rustic cabin – perfect for warming up on a cold winter’s day. I chose a Crêpe with chocolate and Chantilly cream and a signature Breizh Cola. The crêpe was piping hot and golden with a generous drizzle of velvety home-made dark chocolate sauce that had a rich and bittersweet flavour.

Having visited a number of times, Coralie picked the winning dishes, opting for a crêpe covered in Breton salted butter caramel and Chantilly cream with a traditional, full-bodied cider served in a little bowl.

The Hotel

After a bit more shopping, I headed back to Hotel Adèle & Jules to chill out before picking Steven up from Gare du Nord, a convenient 15-minute walk away.

The Bedroom

My Boulevard Club Room was ever so stylish and colourful and because it’s a recently-opened hotel, everything felt new and fresh. I absolutely loved the vibrant design with cool Ankara and ikat textiles and a palette of vermillion, burgundy and magenta. The fashion-inspired artwork, Far East-inspired wardrobe and typical Haussmann juliette balcony finish the look perfectly.

Room features include a large LCD TV (with a few more English channels than usual), a luxurious felt sofa, writing desk, bluetooth speakers, Nespresso machine and separate kettle with tea and coffee, complimentary bottles of Evian and of course free wifi.

The king-size bed was extremely comfortable and was covered in high quality bed linen with good pillows. Since the hotel is neatly tucked away in a courtyard, we found it very peaceful and slept well.

The bathroom was spacious and urban with pristine metro-style white tiles, shower, thick and fluffy towels, plush bathrobes and slippers and a full set of Fragonard bathroom products.

The hotel lounge is a cosy place to sit and relax and it also offers a little teatime treat of tea or coffee, fresh juice, mini pastries and biscuits. As a small hotel, there isn’t a restaurant, however the lounge has well-stocked honesty bar and I spotted some rather tempting room service being delivered to some savvy guests on my floor. There are also some notable restaurants and cafes close to the hotel such as Richer, Mersea, L’Office, Cafe Pinson and La Crème de Paris.

I really fell in love with Hotel Adèle & Jules and recommend it if you’re looking for a romantic urban bolthole with a homely feel and chic design in a vibrant neighbourhood.

Photos by Chérie City (some interiors by Leon & Harper and Rachel’s Grocery).

Thanks to Expedia for supporting this stay.

Hotels, Paris

A Great Stay at La Clef Tour Eiffel Paris

December 12, 2016 by cheriecity

Whenever I go to Paris, I dream of living like a local in a cute little Parisian apartment. Recently, my dream came true when I stayed at La Clef Tour Eiffel, a wonderful collection of luxury serviced apartments by Ascott The Residence.

Location

Located in the elegant 16th arrondissement, La Clef Tour Eiffel is in a prime position on Avenue Kléber, close to the Eiffel Tower, Trocadéro, Palais de Chaillot and the Seine. It’s also quite a cultural hub, surrounded by the city’s best museums and galleries, as well as chic terrace cafes, designer boutiques and quaint boulangeries.

La Clef Tour Eiffel is one of The Ascott group’s two luxury properties in Paris – the other occupies an equally prestigious spot near the Louvre and La Clef Champs-Élysées is set to open in 2018.

Check-In

On arrival, La Clef Tour Eiffel appears grand yet understated and has a secure key card entrance. We were warmly greeted at check in and enjoyed a pot of tea in the sprawling marble lobby lounge before heading up to our Parisian apartment.

The lobby has a relaxed atmosphere with comfy seating, coffee table books and games for that homely feel. Running through the public areas is a fashion and movie theme with interesting artworks and scultpures. There is also a self-service hot drinks machine, so you can stay cosy with complimentary premium tea and coffee 24-hours a day.

The Apartment

Our Deluxe One-Bedroom Apartment on the third floor was absolutely heavenly. It has a chic Parisian style with soft grey wood panelling, parquet floor, high ceilings and signature Haussmannian windows that open on to Avenue Kléber.

The living room boasts contemporary furnishings such as a large LCD TV, dining table with two chairs, writing desk, wool sofa, coffee table and a plush designer rug. The high-tech, gleaming kitchen has just what you need to prepare simple meals, decked out with a large fridge, microwave, cooking utencils, a full set of china, Nespresso machine with espresso capsules and a kettle with plenty of tea.

We were very kindly welcomed with bottles of still and sparkling water, Alain Milliat fresh juices and the most delicious Jean-Paul Hévin chocolate – exactly what my dream Parisian apartment would be stocked with.

We found the bedroom cosy and tranquil with another LCDTV, fitted wardrobes, a luxurious queen bed with high quality linen and lavender pillow mist.

Past a sliding door in the bedroom is the stunning grey mosaic-tiled bathroom with an enormous walk-in shower, double sink, a proper hairdryer, a full set of L’Occitane verbena bathroom products (complete with three mini hand creams in different scents) and bathrobe and slippers.

Exploring Paris

After settling in, we headed to the nearby Avenue Wilson food market to drool over the farm-fresh produce, gourmet delicacies and pretty flowers. Our lunch plan included the famous rotisserie chicken and potatoes, but it was so popular that it had run out by the time we arrived. However, there was no shortage of tasty dishes at this market, so instead, we shared a hearty Beef Bourguignon.

Either side of the market are my favourite institutions in Paris – the Palais de Tokyo and fashion museum the Palais Galliera. The Palais de Tokyo was packed full (it was Saturday, after all), so we had just enough time to pop in to the bookshop before heading back to La Clef for tea time.

Afternoon Tea

A perk of staying at La Clef Tour Eiffel is the amazing tea time, which is complimentary for all guests and is served from 3pm to 5pm in the lounge. We expected a simple treat but the offering was seriously Marie-Antoinette level!

We grazed on dainty mini macarons, home-made candied fruit loaf cake, mini croissants and the most exquisite petits fours including financiers, eclairs, clafoutis and madeleines. While hotel tea time is becoming a trend in Paris, this level of luxury is rare and really, it should be a dealbreaker when choosing where to stay.

After warming up over afternoon tea, we headed back out to Les Villages de Noël. This glorious Christmas market brings a touch of festive sparkle to the Champs-Élysées with wooden huts offering everything from hand-crafted products from regions of France to mulled wine and roasted chestnuts.

We couldn’t resist picking up some authentic Bordelais canelés to munch on later back at our apartment – as if we hadn’t consumed enough baked goods already that day!

The grand Concorde square looked so Christmassy with the historic buildings and ferris wheel illuminated, and we rediscovered romantic Paris with a stroll along the Seine. We usually spend time searching for hidden gems in the city’s hip (and not always so pretty) neighbourhoods, but this time it was fun to remember what made us fall in love with Paris.

Dinner at Cafe Kléber

Of course, a classic day out in Paris should end with a traditional French supper of Steak Frites. We went to Cafe Kléber, a typically Parisian brasserie with a nice family atmosphere and charming old school waiters, conveniently on the corner of our street. The food was pretty good and really hit the spot when liberally doused with a yummy Béarnaise sauce.

If you don’t want to venture too far out for dinner, there are some good choices around Avenue Kléber such as Monsieur Bleu at Palais de Tokyo, flashy hotspot Le Coq and Carette for its tempting cakes. Or right on the doorstep, there’s Hexagone, Chef Mathieu Pacaud’s acclaimed and beautifully-designed gastronomic restaurant.

Breakfast

Even though La Clef is a serviced apartment concept rather than a hotel, guests can enjoy a prepared breakfast in the lounge. The breakfast buffet is generous and very high quality with the usual hot items, fresh baguette, mini pastries, candied fruit muffins, cereal, luxury farm yoghurts, French cheeses, charcuterie and a choice of tiny jams and sauces.

Our time at La Clef Tour Eiffel was truly indulgent and memorable and I’m convinced that it’s one of the most comfortable ways to enjoy a short or extended stay in Paris. From the dedicated staff to the relaxed atmosphere and stylish design, La Clef Tour Eiffel has it all!

For more information and booking, visit: www.the-ascott.com

Cherie City was a guest of La Clef Tour Eiffel

All photos by Cherie City

Hotels, Paris

A Stay at Sofitel Paris Arc de Triomphe

September 27, 2016 by cheriecity

Sofitel Paris Arc de Triomphe was top of my list for my recent trip to Paris with my mum. We fell in love with the Sofitel brand following our stay at the ultra-chic Sofitel Paris Le Faubourg and after all, our mamans deserve nothing but the best!

While Sofitel Paris Le Faubourg is all about fashion and rose-scented decadence, Sofitel Paris Arc de Triomphe is a sleek and minimalist affair.

Location

The sophisticated five star hotel is located in an elegant Haussmann-style building on the corner of upscale rue Beaujon just a few steps from the Arc de Triomphe and the Champs-Elysées. It’s also within walking distance of the Seine, the Tuileries Garden and the art instutions of the 8th arrondissement – Palais de Tokyo, Paris Museum of Modern Art and the Palais Galliera.

Arrival

The open-plan lobby is buzzing yet calm with a stylish all-day bar that offers light bites and exquisite pastries during the day and inventive cocktails at night. On the other side of the lobby is a relaxed guest lounge designed in electric blue with comfy sofas.

The Room

Check-in was warm and friendly and we were personally shown to our Luxury Room on the fifth floor. Designed by Studio Putman, our room was so zen and tranquil with a simple, cool palette of white, soft grey and beige. The minimalist style was complemented by high end touches such as a tactile suede headboard, plush carpet and a high tech mood lighting system (which admittedly took me a little while to master).

A perk of staying at Sofitel is the signature MyBed, and it was just as cosy and heavenly and I remembered with crisp linen and fabulous pillows – like floating on a cloud.

Other room features included a Nespresso coffee machine and separate kettle with Dammann Frères teas and complimentary bottles of Evian. There was also handily-placed room service menu for the hotel’s restaurant Les Cocottes Arc de Triomphe by Michelin starred chef Christian Constant. The restaurant has a unique ‘kitchen to table’ concept with rustic, comforting dishes served in little cast iron pots and the design is contemporary yet nostalgic.

It’s hard not to be tempted by its offering of an authentic French onion soup, rotisserie roasted chicken or a trio of gourmet Croque Monsieurs. I actually wish we’d dined there that evening, as our meal at a terrace cafe was very average and clouded in Friday night smoke. However, our lunch at Le Frank at the nearby Fondation Louis Vuitton was truly memorable, so it was still a successful foodie day.

The Bathroom

One of Andrée Putman’s design philosophies is that the bathroom is the most important room in a home or hotel room, so of course our bathroom was quite the destination. It could be accessed by two sliding doors on each side (Carrie Bradshaw would approve) and designed in glossy white with tiny blue and grey mosaic tiles.

It features a walk-in shower, a pristine Corian sink, silver stool, magnifying mirror, thick towels, a full set of Hermès Eau d’Orange Verte bathroom products and best of all, a snuggly Sofitel bathrobe and branded slippers.

A Welcome Treat

Just before the evening turndown, we were very kindly welcomed with a sweet gift of macarons, apricot pâte de fruit and fresh apricots. Another lovely surprise was a stunning 14 rue Beaujon candle each, designed exclusively for the hotel by perfumer Rami Mekdachi – the nose behind scents for Chloé, Roger Vivier, Costes, Colette and some of the best hotels in the world. These candles can be bought in the lobby, as well as cute Paris-themed handbags by designer Barbara Rihl, as a luxurious souvenir of your stay.

Breakfast

In the morning, we had the chance to discover Les Cocottes Arc de Triomphe over a sumptuous breakfast. After we were shown to our table by the lovely morning staff, a shot of healthy fruit juice and a basket of flaky pastries swiftly arrived with our hot drinks.

Sofitel hotels are known for their superior breakfasts and this one was a real delight, so be sure to leave plenty of time to really indulge. There is a generous selection of hot dishes, fresh baguette, yoghurt, crêpes, cake, mini financiers and brownies and an impressive choice of gluten-free baked items.

Sofitel Paris Arc de Triomphe is a smart yet relaxed place to stay where you will feel really looked after. It’s a particularly good choice for first-time visitors to Paris who will benefit from its central location close to famous landmarks and an international approach to service.

For more information and booking, visit: www.sofitel.com

Chérie City was a guest of Sofitel Paris Arc de Triomphe

Photos by Chérie City and Sofitel (Les Cocottes Arc de Triomphe by Gilles Trillard).

Hotels, Paris

A Great Stay at Hotel Square Louvois Paris

September 22, 2016 by cheriecity

It’s a rare joy to discover a hotel that makes you feel truly at home with the comforts that you miss when travelling. Hotel Square Louvois in the centre of Paris has only been open since August, but it’s already a slick operation with super-friendly staff, thoughtful amenities and seriously covetable interiors by designer Leslie Gauthier.

Location

This four-star contemporary design hotel overlooks the peaceful, leafy Square Louvois and is conveniently close to the Palais Royal, Louvre and Opera. I thought I knew central Paris pretty well, but Square Louvois was a new discovery. Apparently its elegant residences hosted the cream of Parisian high society in the 19th century.

Check-In

Arriving at Hotel Square Louvois, my mum and I were warmly welcomed and offered a seat to check in via an iPad (I liked that we were the first guests to try the new digital system). The open-plan lobby is a cool lifestyle space with bookshelves laden with paperpack folio editions of classic French novels, two Apple iMacs and a cosy nook with headphones and magazine.

The lobby has a Parisian-meets-Scandinavian style that feels very hip and ‘now’ but the atmosphere is relaxed, fuss-free and unpretentious. It’s also pet-friendly, so you may spot the occasional pampered pooch trotting around.

Guests can also kick back with complimentary refreshments – there’s a Nespresso machine, chilled bottles of Evian and a glass jar filled with Madeleines. There’s also a daily ‘gouter’ afternoon snack served between 4pm and 6pm in the dining room, but unfortunately we weren’t around to indulge.

The Room

Our Deluxe Room on the second floor was so calming and chic, designed in a palette of petrol blue, inky grey and soft gold with highlights of dark wood, copper and tan leather. There are so many gorgeous details such as the black and white photographs of French writers, a cool houndstooth chair and a luxurious geometric-patterned rug covering the parquet floor. I couldn’t help imagining that if I had a dream Paris apartment, it would look exactly like this.

The complimentary amenities continue to the guest rooms with Nespresso coffee and tea facilities, speculoos biscuits and bottles of Evian, as well as free movies on the large LCD TV. We had an unexpectedly late night following dinner at nearby Cafe Ruc, staying up to watch The Intern in bed.

Our twin beds were incredibly comfortable and covered with superior quality linen (possibly Frette) and indigo denim-style cushions. Also worth a mention is the powerful and completely noiseless air-conditioning, which made all the difference for a blissful night’s sleep.

The Bathroom

The pristine bathroom is an adequate size with a powerful shower and bath and proper hairdryer, but it’s the small touches that make it more fun – luxurious bathrobes and slippers, stunning patterned mosaic tiles and a full set of L’Occitane bathroom products in a cute denim blue felted pouch.

Breakfast

In the morning, a delightful buffet breakfast is served from a rustic-luxe French kitchen and pantry. There are hot options like scrambled eggs and bacon as well as delicious mini pastries, ready-to-slice baguette, French cheeses, charcuterie, cereal, fruit juices, apple compote and lots of different kinds of yoghurt.

Perhaps the addition of a few surprising items like crêpes, waffles or a healthy chia pudding might give the Parisian breakfast an edge, but everything was very high quality and served perfectly. I also liked the accompaniments of luxurious French butter, miniature Bonne Maman jams and Dammann Frères tea.

The spacious breakfast room was so pleasant and relaxed that we enjoyed a second cup while planning our day ahead.

The Swimming Pool

The real jewel in the crown of Hotel Square Louvois is its fabulous lower ground Wellness area with a sleek yoga studio, relaxation room and swimming pool. In fact, calling it a swimming pool is an understatement, as its powerful hydromassage jets along one side make it an enormous jacuzzi at the push of a button.

It was such a treat to unwind after a day of walking around the city and it really added to the vibe of a chilled out urban resort.

Hotel Square Louvois is the kind of hotel that you can’t help falling in love with and a stay there is sure to be memorable. If you appreciate cool design, a central location and plenty of thoughtful extras, this is the place that you should make your home in Paris.

For more information and booking, visit: www.hotel-louvois-paris.com

Chérie City was a guest of Hotel Square Louvois

For more Paris hotel ideas, read my review of:

Art, Paris, Restaurants

Inside the Wonderful Fondation Louis Vuitton Paris

September 14, 2016 by cheriecity

Top of the list for my recent Paris trip was visiting the Fondation Louis Vuitton. Not only is it one of the city’s most striking new buildings, but it boast fabulous views of Paris and a wonderful restaurant.

The LVMH-supported art museum and cultural centre was designed by renowned architect Frank Gehry and opened just two years ago. It occupies a prime spot in the perfectly-manicured Jardin d’Acclimatation in the Bois de Boulogne, on the edge of Paris’ elegant Neuilly suburb.

We visited in a quiet period between exhibitions, however there was still plenty to see. Most prominent was French conceptual artist Daniel Buren’s ‘Observatory of Light’ work in situ. He is best known for the monochrome striped columns in the Palais Royal and the Red Arc at the Guggenheim Bilbao.

Buren has transformed the Fondation’s twelve glass ‘sails’ with coloured filters and white stripes to create a new vision. The usual appearance, though remarkable, is more sober with clear glass, so the flashes of colour really enhance the form of the building.

The lower-ground pond with its crystal clear reflection and multiple mirrors is also a really cool architectural feature, as is the dramatic exterior waterfall that cascades towards the building.

While there weren’t any major exhibitions on, we still got our art fix from The Collection, dedicated to Chinese art. Xu Zhen’s large-scale sculpture Giant no. 3 brings together two Chinese heritage emblems – Buddha and the Victory of Samothrace and is made entirely from animal hides.

There’s also a surreal, dream-like video piece by Yang Fudong that expresses the anxiety of age in modern China and contemplative works by Ai Weiwei, Huang Yong Ping and Zhang Huan.

Lunch at Le Frank

Of course, one cannot survive on art alone and Le Frank restaurant is hard to resist. Headed up by Michelin-starred chef Jean-Louis Nomicos (La Grand Cascade, Lasserre and Les Tablettes Jean-Louis Nomicos), Le Frank is everything that a museum restaurant should be – stylish, exciting and innovative yet relaxing.

The restaurant is bright and airy with floor to ceiling windows, a floating art installation and vintage Louis Vuitton trunks mounted on the wall. There’s a chic terrace overlooking the Jardin d’Acclimatation, but we chose a window seat inside to keep cool on that hot day.

The Menu

We were tempted by the Garden Composition (€28) – a set lunch menu that includes a selection of signature dishes, dessert, a large bottle of mineral water and tea or coffee.

These tasters came beautifully presented on a wooden board and they worked harmoniously together. Poached egg, potato and saffron and Parmesan cream was actually quite light and not overly rich, while the chilled Tomato veloute with ginger lemon jelly was smooth, fragrant and very refreshing.

Tomatoes and mozzarella with basil was simple yet high quality with a clean and fresh taste and Tabbouleh was summery and aromatic with a fluffy texture and a subtle touch of mint.

Dessert

The dessert of Vanilla-coconut Japanese pearls, madeleines and sweet gazpacho was an absolute delight. The Japanese pearls melted in the mouth and I loved the velvety salted caramel topping with baked Madeleines fresh from the oven, finished with a zingy iced strawberry and tomato soup that acted as a palate cleanser.

The sweet course was accompanied by a Nespresso Macchiato for my mum while I enjoyed a Palais des Thés Blue of London Earl Grey tea served in a heavy iron teapot.

Our lunch was exquisite and excellent value and we were really well looked after by the charming staff. I’d happily stay for a bite to eat on every visit, whether it’s for lunch, dinner or afternoon tea and cake.

The Fondation Louis Vuitton is a truly inspiring space and I’m dying to go back and see the new autumn exhibitions. Even in between shows, it’s worth paying the reasonable nine Euros entry fee just to experience the building and view the art collections.

For more information, visit: www.fondationlouisvuitton.fr and www.restaurantlefrank.fr

All photos by Chérie City

Cafes, Paris

The Best Lattes at Café Kitsuné Palais Royal in Paris

February 1, 2016 by cheriecity

One of my favourite things about a short break in Paris is having the time to sit in a cafe and watch the world go by. Of course there is no shortage of cafes to refuel in Paris, whether you’re after a traditional espresso at the counter of a tabac, a chic café crème on the terrace at Café de Flore or a chai latte and vegan cake at a hip place near the Canal St-Martin.

Café Kitsuné Paris at Palais Royal is rather special and a joyful blend of all of the above. Best of all, it was right on our doorstep when we stayed at the beautiful Grand Hotel du Palais Royal for two nights.

Created by Gildas Loaëc and Masaya Kuroki in 2002, Maison Kitsuné is a music, fashion and lifestyle brand that’s always ahead of the rest. I became a fan of Kitsuné soon after its launch from seeing the label’s bands and DJs play at their gigs and club nights. I also can’t resist the modern-classic, well-cut clothes – one day that luxurious lambswool fox sweater will be mine.

So, I was pleased to find that Café Kitsuné lived up to expectations and is the perfect place to sip a matcha latte in the heart of Paris. It’s a tiny cafe in the Galerie de Montpensier with simply a mirrored counter to stand and drink. However, there are plenty of tables outside where you can watch the ebb and flow of the Palais Royal gardens.

We ordered a chai latte and an almond milk matcha latte and browsed the Maison Kitsuné products while waiting at the bar. The extensive drinks menu also includes coffee using Daterra Santa Colomba beans from the Minas Gerais region of Brazil (roasted in London), artisan teas and cold-pressed juices from Parisian favourite Bob’s Juice Bar. For something to munch on, there are slices of cake, cookies and cute foxy shortbread from nearby organic, gluten-free bakery Noglu.

My almond milk matcha latte was so dreamy and delicate (the trick is not to burn the matcha with boiling water) and Steven’s chai latte was punchy and aromatic, made with proper spices rather than syrup.

There is a a larger, colourful Café Kitsuné at Filles du Calvaire which I’m planning to visit on my next trip, but the Palais Royal cafe is a must for its picturesque, inspiring location. What better way to spend an hour or so in Paris?

Photos by Chérie City

Paris, Restaurants

A Wonderful Foodie Trip to Paris

December 2, 2015 by cheriecity

Our recent trip to Paris was a whirlwind of foodie delights and as ever, we made lots of new discoveries. I usually plan our meals with military precision but decided to loosen things up this time and go wherever our hearts and stomachs took us.

When we arrived in Paris and settled in to our lovely room at Grand Hotel du Palais Royal, a lazy Sunday afternoon was in full swing. Our Paris trips are almost always mid-week, so it was a rare pleasure to see Parisians and visitors strolling around with their pooches, kissing in the Tuileries and making the most of a sunny weekend.

Cafe Le Nemours

One of my favourite people-watching spots in Paris is the terrace of Cafe Le Nemours on Place Colette, sandwiched between the Louvre and the Palais Royal. We managed to score an outside table and ordered two Croque Madames for a tasty refuel. I’m always on the hunt for these traditional Croques with bubbling, oozing Gruyère, crispy buttered bread and a runny egg yolk (none of that slim slice of pain Poilâne nonsense).

Bistrot Vivienne

As much as I tend to seek out creative neo-bistros and hip new bars, I also love a bit of Parisian old world charm. The kind of institutions that have been serving up exemplary steak frites to the hungry masses for decades without a care for the latest trends.

There’s no better place to find these gems than around the Palais Royal with its many traditional arcades nearby. So later that evening, we headed to Bistrot Vivienne set in the characterful, early 19th century Galerie Vivienne for a relaxed supper.

We both had our hearts set on steak frites and washed them down with a Monaco instead of the usual red wine. My Scotch beef onglet steak was tender and lean, served perfectly medium with a velvety, mild gorgonzola sauce. Steven’s Scotch Beef entrecôte with Guérande sea salt had a more mature flavour and a melt-in-the-mouth texture and was served with pot of a tangy, herby Béarnaise sauce.

The accompanying hand-cut fries are possibly the best I’ve ever tasted in Paris – hot, crispy, golden and freshly cooked. We didn’t find room for dessert but will no doubt be lured back next time for the Brioche pain perdue and the Bourbon vanilla rice pudding with salted caramel.

Le Lulli

Of course, it wouldn’t be a luxury Paris trip without a little casual fine dining and what better than a leisurely three-course lunch at Le Lulli, the stunning restaurant at Grand Hotel du Palais Royal?

I loved the restaurant’s relaxed atmosphere and contemporary design with a pretty winter garden referencing nature in the Palais Royal Garden. It was quiet when we visited but is generally popular among the local business crowd and ladies who lunch, looking for something special and more private than nearby bistrots.

The Chef

At the helm of Le Lulli is Executive Chef Clément Le Norcy, who honed his skills under the guidance of Michelin starred chefs at Hotel Auberge du Jeu de Paume in Chantilly, L’Abbaye Saint Ambroix and Hotel Le Saint-James and Le Gabriel in Bordeaux.

I started with the most delicious Gambas with roasted sucrine and shellfish vinaigrette. The plump gambas were perfectly cooked and had an Asian twist with the slightly sweet vinaigrette and tiny mushrooms infused with soy.

Steven’s Salmon marinated with rose berry, cucumbers and spring onions was a delight with plenty of nicely-cured salmon, mini blinis and tempura spring onion.

After the previous evening’s indulgent steak, I went with a light and healthy Cod with mashed mushrooms and pistachio pesto. It was succulent and crispy on top and the accompanying sauces were full of flavour with a smooth texture.

The winning dish, however, was Steven’s Lamb marinated with thyme and lemon, grilled leeks and spiced yoghurt. The tender, lightly glazed lamb was ever so satisfying with a rich, meaty jus and delicate, fresh leeks.

For dessert, my Entrement Chocolat, described as melty and crunchy from Tanzania, was simply heavenly. The exquisite, velvety milk chocolate mousse was filled with sticky sponge and topped with a chocolate sablé biscuit and drops of shimmering fruit gelée.

Steven’s Lemon tart was a refreshing classic with zingy lemon curd softened by lightly-whipped meringue, a buttery pastry base and crunchy lemon sugar tuiles.

Le Lulli Bar

That evening, it was back to Le Lulli Bar for an aperitif with a long-time Twitter friend. We chatted about all things Paris and travel over the most fantastic cocktails – head barman Maxime Rousseau’s cocktails are so tempting it took us a while choose. My cocktail, Le Louvre, was a potent, fragrant blend of Hendick’s Gin, iced tea, hibiscus syrup and lime. If you’re in the mood for bubbles, there are over 30 types of Champagne available.

Glou

After cocktails, we raced across town to meet our friends Coralie and Sunny at Glou in the Marais. We have Coralie to thank for suggesting this cosy, loft-style bistrot by ex-food writer Julien Fouin. It’s all about simple, honest cooking with a focus on organic ingredients from French terroirs and natural, biodynamic wine.

My Perigord chicken with Paris mushrooms and potato purée was the very best of comfort food and Steven was impressed with the Cod fillet with fennel choucroute and black olive oil.

Coralie enjoyed her Grilled plaice with potato purée and while the vegetarian Moussaka had run out, Sunny was brought a platter of rich, creamy vegetable-based dishes.

Desserts were typically French Tarte Tatin and Caramel rice pudding, which were executed well and with few surprises. Glou is a great spot if you’re in the mood for fresh, home-cooked food in a pleasant atmosphere with friendly service – we would certainly visit again.

Sébastien Gaudard Patisserie Salon de Thé des Tuileries

Of course, a trip to Paris is only complete with at least one beautiful cake. I was delighted that our hotel was so close to the Sébastien Gaudard Patisserie Salon de Thé des Tuileries, as I’ve wanted to visit since discovering his first patisserie on the rue des Martyrs last year.

Since we were running late for the Eurostar (time is always too short in Paris), we ordered cakes to take out as a special treat for the train ride home. A great idea in theory, but the baggage scanners aren’t always patisserie-friendly and they looked a little rough and ready, but still edible.

Steven’s Rum Baba was a classic done exceedingly well, but my Religieuse au Chocolat wasn’t really to my taste. I rarely meet a cake I don’t like, but the dark chocolate filling was a little too heavy and intense (the selection at Ladurée remains undefeated as my favourite). I am however undeterred and will continue to work through Sébastien Gaudard’s sweet repertoire on my next trip.

Our trip to Paris was a foodie success and there are still plenty of restaurants on my wish list for next time – Rachel’s, Monsieur Bleu, Lazare, Paris-New York and Le Grand Colbert to name but a few.

Have you tried any of these cafes and restaurants? Where are your favourite foodie spots in Paris?

Photos by Chérie City (restaurant interior by Le Lulli)

Chérie City was a guest of Le Lulli as part of a two-night stay at Grand Hotel du Palais Royal

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