Grand Joanne is one of Copenhagen’s most talked about new lifestyle hotels and it’s safe to say that it lives up to the hype. The Danish capital’s hotel scene has flourished in recent years, establishing its reputation as a style city. With gorgeous new residences such as Coco Hotel, 25hours Hotel Indre By and Villa Copenhagen, there’s never been a better time to visit.
The hotel
Set across six floors of a newly-restored building from the 1800s, the hotel is illuminated with a warm, golden glow. With a cute hot chocolate cart and pastel pink bicycles lined up in front of the cinema-style entrance, it was instantly clear that this grande dame was going to be a winner.
Location
The hotel is nestled on a corner of central Vesterbrogade within walking distance of the Tivoli Gardens, the bars and restaurants of the Meatpacking District and Central Station. Its convenient location makes it the perfect choice for first-timers in Copenhagen, as well as seasoned visitors wanting to explore nearby Vesterbro and Frederiksberg.
Design
Inside, the hotel feels like an intimate townhouse with a series of lounges with cosy sofas, marble coffee tables, art books and plush rugs. We visited in December, so there was a stylish Christmas tree by the window and rose-tinted baubles and paper stars hanging from the ceiling.
A terracotta-tiled conservatory, with striking murals of the lady herself sipping a Martini (I’m guessing), leads out to a leafy courtyard garden and pergola for meetings and parties. There’s also a seasonal rooftop bar for dinner and drinks with a view.
Check-in was quick and friendly and we were kindly given a free upgrade to a Superior Room on the first floor. Even the hallways are pretty with pastel pink walls and a jazzy black and white striped carpet.
The Room
Our room was an absolute beauty, designed in a calming, natural colour palette with plenty of daylight and space. It was also very quiet and peaceful, especially considering it’s in a busy part of town.
The king-size bed was ever so comfortable, covered in high quality cotton linen with plump pillows, a decorative patterned headboard and art prints above. Needless to say, we slept blissfully every night (no overheating, hard mattresses or noisy corridors here).
Other room features include a large flat-screen TV with streaming access, music system, cosy sofa and armchair, work desk, vases and ornaments by HAY and a sleek, goose-neck Bodum kettle with coffee and Yogi herbal teas.
A fun touch is the vanity table with a light bulb mirror and a cute ‘Joanne’ pink organza scrunchie for getting ready in style. These feminine accents certainly give the hotel more character and set it apart from the rest.
The room feels truly homely as everything functions well and has been thoughtfully designed – there’s no ‘putting up’ or ‘making do’ at Joanne’s.
The Bathroom
The gorgeous mushroom-tiled bathroom has a powerful walk-in shower, luxurious underfloor heating, thick and fluffy towels and deliciously-scented full-size bathroom products made exclusively for the hotel.
Joanne’s restaurant
We didn’t eat at the hotel on this occasion, as we had dinner plans at nearby Propaganda and wanted to try Hart Bageri for breakfast. However, next time we would make time to visit the hotel’s stunning restaurant, Joanne’s. The design is warm and maximalist with boho furnishings and artefacts inspired by travel.
The menu is contemporary Italian with crowd-pleasing burrata, salumi, pasta and risotto paired with Negronis and spritzes.
The hotel has a 24-hour gym and regularly yoga classes, however a sauna or steam room would really take it to the next level.
The Grand Joanne is a chic yet easy-going hotel where you can feel comfortable and well cared for. If you’re planning a city break in Copenhagen, make sure you stay chez Joanne.
Parisian style meets Danish design at Coco Hotel, a sustainable boutique hotel in Copenhagen’s hip Vesterbro neighbourhood.
Coco opened in 2019 and has become popular among travellers for its chic, affordable rooms and verdant inner courtyard where locals cycle over to spend their evenings over glasses of natural wine.
You may already be familiar with its owner – it’s the first hotel from Copenhagen Food Collective (known as Cofoco), the brains behind buzzing Copenhagen restaurants like Høst, Scarpetta, Les Trois Cochons, Vaekst and Vespa.
Arrival
It’s impossible to miss Coco Hotel on Vesterbrogade with its colourful Parisian-style striped awnings and traditional pavement cafe tables. We arrived after 5pm and found the hotel beautifully decorated for Christmas and in a rather jolly mood, as guests were midway through the complimentary wine hour.
We were warmly welcomed by the friendly, dynamic team and swiftly given the old school brass tassel key to our room (don’t worry, they take care of it while you’re out).
Cafe Coco & Coco Bar à Vin
The reception curves around to the open-plan Cafe Coco, a casual space with French art posters, bistro-style tables and cosy nooks. Here you can enjoy light meals including morning pastries and organic coffee, healthy avocado toast and burrata for lunch and an evening cheeseboard with charcuterie and sourdough.
From 4pm, the cafe and leafy courtyard seamlessly become Coco Bar à Vin, offering over 150 different wines carefully chosen by the sommelier.
The Room
We were instantly charmed by our cute, bohemian Small Double Room and found it slightly more spacious than expected. It reminded me of Hotel Amour and Le Pigalle in northern Paris, but with a sense of Nordic simplicity.
The neutral greige walls were complemented by stylish rattan furniture, a brass clothes rail and a retro photography print above the wooden headboard custom-built by local furniture makers Københavns Møbelsnedkeri.
The double bed was extremely comfortable with a plush Auping mattress, organic cotton linen and plump pillows – we slept very well during our stay. The large windows opened out to the courtyard (so the room was nice and quiet) and there was also a flatscreen TV, free wifi and a gourmet organic snack tray.
The hotel’s 88 rooms range from a petite Single Room to a spacious Junior Suite and there is a Family Suite with a separate room and Playstation 4 for kids.
The Bathroom
The bathroom was petite and spotlessly clean with smooth pastel pink tiles, a walk-in shower, fully opening windows (a rarity in hotels these days), eco-friendly Hopal toiletries and a gorgeous Laboratorio Olfattivo handwash. I was particularly impressed with the powerful underfloor heating, which made the room feel even more cosy.
Breakfast
Each morning, we started the day with breakfast at Delphine, the hotel’s bright and spacious sister restaurant just across the road. The organic breakfast buffet was simple but high quality with a selection of freshly-baked breads, flaky pastries, Danish cured meats and cheeses, soft boiled eggs, pomegranate and coconut chia pudding and a selection of fresh juices.
Some scrambled eggs and bacon would have made it feel more indulgent, but clearly the hotel has a healthier approach.
Amenities
Coco Hotel is nothing like Copenhagen’s many corporate hotels, so you won’t find a business centre, event spaces or a gym. Instead, you can play ping pong in the 5th floor games room and take advantage of the hotel’s health and wellbeing partnerships with Vesterbronx Gym, Ara’Kai beauty, AIRE Ancient Baths Copenhagen and STUDIO 41 Pilates.
Sustainability
Denmark is officially the second greenest country in the world (just behind Sweden) and Green Key certified Coco Hotel has its own clever sustainability practices. Cofoco owns a solar park in Jutland, which powers the hotel and the entire restaurant group with clean, green energy. Coco Hotel also partners with Eden Reforestation Projects to help plant trees in Kenya.
Location
Coco Hotel is in the heart of lively Vesterbro surrounded by notable restaurants, cafes, bars and bakeries and conveniently, an easy 10-minute walk from Central Station. Also nearby is the Meatpacking District, where you can dine around hotspots like Fleisch, Warpigs, Mother and Hija de Sanchez. For a spot of culture, Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, the National Museum of Denmark and the iconic Tivoli Gardens are just 20 minutes away on foot.
Impressions
Coco Hotel is the perfect choice for a relaxed, budget-friendly city break, especially if you love characterful hotels in a cool, creative area. It has plenty of Wes Anderson-style eccentricities but everything functions well and it generally exceeded my expectations.
I booked the hotel for the first time with Mr and Mrs Smith, as the special perk for members was a complimentary daily breakfast – an offer that’s hard to pass up! If you book directly with the hotel, you can enjoy the Friends of Cofoco 20% discount across all sixteen restaurants for up to eight people.
There’s nowhere quite like Copenhagen at Christmas, especially when you stay somewhere just as memorable as the destination itself. 25hours Hotel Indre By opened this spring and it truly captures the magic of the Danish capital.
I’ve stayed at 25hours Hotels in Cologne and Hamburg, however each house is totally unique, so there was a lot to discover.
The hotel sprawls across a grand 19th century building which was once a porcelain factory, followed by a paper mill in the 1800s and later University of Copenhagen’s school of theology and law. References to the building’s heritage can be found throughout the hotel, as art and knowledge meet for a stylish sleepover.
Its Indre By (inner city) location couldn’t be any better, especially for Copenhagen first-timers, as it’s right in the middle of the action, between the historic Round Tower and the bustling Kobmagergade shopping street.
Designed by Martin Brudnizki Design Studio, the hotel is a wonderland of colour, echoing the rich palette that you will see on the streets of Copenhagen’s old town. Antique and vintage finds sit among bespoke pieces by Danish designers and makers, keeping the air miles to a minimum.
Arrival
Walking through the front door, we were immediately dazzled and overwhelmed by the size of the residence. Within moments we were at the centre of The Assembly Bar, a light-filled atrium lounge with exotic wall tapestries, comfy sofas and a fabulous island bar.
This inviting bar leads off to the reception and a warren of chilled out guest spaces, from the retro, neon glow of the Vinyl Room to the bijou, blood red Love Library.
In the middle of the lobby is a Harry Potter-esque whirlwind book sculpture and vintage typewriters (for writing love letters from a faraway land), inspired by the building’s paper mill history. There’s also the 25h things shop with a curated selection of local products and unusual finds – ideal for cool souvenirs.
Check-in was friendly and welcoming and we were swiftly navigating the myriad of brightly-coloured hallways to our room on the first floor.
The Room
The hotel boasts 243 rooms, ranging from the cosy Medium Single to the impressive Gigantic suite at 55-59sqm. Continuing the hotel theme, the room have two distinctive styles – ‘passion’ or ‘knowledge’. Judging by the curtains artfully illustrated with a tangle of naked bodies, our Medium room was clearly in the passion style!
The room was absolutely stunning and generously sized with high ceilings and large windows looking out to the shopping street below. Pale lemon and inky grey-blue hues cover the walls, with polished parquet floors and decorative red and white tiles around the open-plan bathroom area. The style of the room is maximalist and homely with a cork wall adorned with well-chosen artwork, plus vibrant local craft pieces, books and trinkets dotted around.
There is a comfy seating area with a large Smart TV, free wifi and best of all, a free minibar stocked with fritz-kola, mineral water, local craft beer and sweet and savoury snacks. There’s also a free FREITAG bag to use during your stay, which can also be bought on departure.
The king-size bed was extremely plush and comfortable with signature 25hours embroidered pillows and a furry owl friend for company.
The bathroom sink area may be open-plan but there’s plenty of privacy with a separate toilet and walk-in shower room with full-size STOP THE WATER eco-conscious bathroom products, fluffy towels and a powerful hairdryer.
NENI Kobenhavn
Those familiar with 25hours Hotels will know the joys of dining at NENI, Haya Molcho’s rapidly-growing Balagan-style restaurant brand. At NENI Kobenhavn, you can feast on sharing dishes with Mediterranean, Persian and Austrian influences, including home-made hummus, chargrilled aubergine, popcorn falafel, sabich, chicken shawarma, grilled pulpo and stone oven whole cooked fish.
It’s a spacious, colourful restaurant and is open for lunch and dinner everyday – perfect after a long day of travelling. For a stylish nightcap, there’s also the Boilerman Bar, a dimly-lit neighbourhood speakeasy in the basement.
Cafe Duse
After a day of exploring Copenhagen, there’s nothing better than warming up at Cafe Duse, the hotel’s cosy ground floor cafe from Italian pastry chef Melissa Forti. Named after the Italian actress Eleanora Giulia Amalia Duse, the cafe is the epitome of Italian elegance and has become a popular local spot for a teatime treat or aperitivo.
The counter is filled with Forti’s authentic Italian cakes such as torta di mele e Calvados, tiramisu and baba, as well as red velvet layer cake, cookies and brownies.
We sat next to the Christmas tree and watched the world go by over rich, velvety cioccolata calda and a selection of five delightful mignons. It was just magical!
Breakfast at NENI
In the morning, we headed down to NENI for a delicious breakfast and were sat at a cosy corner booth. The generous buffet is laden with creamy scrambled eggs, crispy bacon and sausages, cured meats and Danish cheeses, freshly-baked bread, mini pastries and scrumptious lemon cake, yoghurt with dried fruits and seeds and a colourful array of raw veggies and olives with cream cheese, hummus and labneh.
There’s also a self-service drinks bar with freshly-squeezed orange or apple juice, a wide selection of artisan loose-leaf teas (my favourite 25hours signature) and strong filter coffee. You can also order a barista-made cappuccino or latte and indulge in some bubbles.
Copenhagen is best explored by bicycle, so it’s worth making use of the hotel’s partnership with Berlin-based Schindelhauer and renting a bike for the day. Getting around is made even easier with a tour map of the city’s hotspots, curated specially for 25hours.
If you have any energy left, there’s also a wellbeing area, including a fitness studio with technogym equipment, yoga mats and an outdoor sauna. In the summer, this space is set up for sunbathing with loungers and is conveniently on the same floor as the lovely secret garden.
25hours Hotel Indre By is an absolute gem, expertly weaving local charm with whimsical design and a sense of uncomplicated luxury. The warm, friendly staff go the extra mile to make guests feel at home and with so many facilities, you’ll want to spend as much time there as possible. It’s hard to pick a favourite 25hours hotel, but the Copenhagen house truly blew me away and I will definitely make it my go-to address when visiting Copenhagen.
When I last visited Copenhagen five years ago, there were very few luxury hotels, but now the Danish capital is full of interesting places to stay.
On my recent trip, I was excited to stay for one night at Villa Copenhagen, a stylish eco-friendly five star hotel. Opening to much anticipation in 2020, Villa is well-located for exploring the city, close to the famous Tivoli Gardens and Central Station and within walking distance of the vibrant Meatpacking District.
The hotel is housed in a listed Neo-Baroque building that was once the Central Post & Telegraph HQ and boasts an impressive 390 rooms and suites. The hotel’s size is key to understanding what Villa is about – it’s a grand railway hotel with designer touches and certainly not a boutique hotel.
The Lobby
Walking through the arched entrance, the first impression of the hotel is a vast, modern atrium with plenty of daylight from the striking glass roof. The open-plan public area comprises the reception, self-service check-in desks and the Courtyard Bar (designed by Shamballa Jewels), where you can relax and enjoy light meals, coffee and drinks. DJs also play there on Friday and Saturday evenings.
Another cool feature is Passagen, the hotel’s design and lifestyle store offering a curated selection of homewares by raawii, Maria Black jewellery and fragrances for the body and home by Skandinavisk.
Check-In
We arrived around midday, so it was a little busy and it took some time to check in. Since we booked through Preferred Hotels & Resorts, we were kindly upgraded to a Superior Plus King Room and happily, it was ready on arrival.
It’s also worth noting that Villa is part of Nordic Choice Hotel Group, which operates Scandi design hotels such as Hotel at Six, Sankt. Petri and The Thief Oslo, so members can actually bypass the queue and check in via the app.
The Room
Our Superior Plus King Room on the first floor was an absolute dream with contemporary interiors by London’s Universal Design Studio and carefully-chosen pieces by Danish designers. It felt spacious and airy with high ceilings and tall windows that you can fling wide open.
The room is designed in natural, cool shades and soft textures with highlights of marble, brass, oak and opal glass. I was particularly taken with the sleek marble-topped console table and the heavenly king-size bed with a large linen bedhead and charcoal drawing by Berlin-based Norwegian artist Bente Stokke.
Room features include a large LCD TV, speaker, wifi, large fitted wardrobe, table and chairs, an upholstered wool bench and a coffee machine with Illy coffee pods and a separate kettle. There’s also a premium minibar and elegant glass tumblers on a brass tray for a decadent night cap.
Sadly, the Chromecast wasn’t working and the front desk wasn’t able to offer a solution, so we were left with basic access to seven or eight Danish channels. Nigella’s Christmas Special with subtitles kept us amused while we got ready for dinner, but it appears to be a regular problem for guests here and is surprising for a five star hotel of this calibre.
The Bathroom
The bathroom is stylish and calm with hand-crafted tiles, grey marble sink and black chrome fittings. There is a powerful walk-in rain forest shower, wooden stool, large fluffy towels, bathrobes and full-size natural products by Skandinavisk.
Unfortunately there was a water drainage issue and my relaxing shower led to the bathroom filling with water alarmingly quickly.
The Swimming Pool
The jewel in the crown of the hotel is the spectacular, eco-friendly 25m outdoor swimming pool, naturally heated with surplus energy from the hotel’s cooling systems. The freezing Copenhagen weather didn’t entice me to peel off the layers and go for a dip, but in the warmer months, this is definitely the place to be.
The only drawback is that you need to pre-book your free 30-minute swim and sauna slot and any extra time is charged. It makes sense, given the large number of guests and recent restrictions, but swimming against the clock could feel a bit rushed.
Dinner in the Meatpacking District
That evening, we walked over to the Meatpacking District for a five-course dinner at Fleisch. It’s a fantastic restaurant with a cosy atmosphere and stunning food – well-worth visiting.
If you don’t want to venture too far out (especially in the cold), book a table at KONTRAST, Villa’s modern brasserie with a short menu of fresh, creative dishes using organic, seasonal ingredients. There’s also the seductive, dimly-lit T37 cocktail bar for inventive mixed drinks over a game of chess.
Breakfast
After a blissful night’s sleep, we headed down for breakfast to the lower ground dining room, housed in the former sorting room of the Post & Telegraph Office. It’s one of the biggest breakfast rooms I’ve ever seen, with two tea and coffee stations on both sides and a central open kitchen.
We were encouraged to pre-book a table and this did seem to help with the flow of guests and hygiene control during Covid restrictions, as it all ran smoothly with plenty of space between tables.
The breakfast buffet is plentiful with scrambled eggs, crispy bacon, sausages, pancakes, an elaborate display of cured meats, smoked salmon and Danish cheeses, chocolate chia seed pudding, granola and yoghurt. There’s also a chef on hand to make omelettes and fried eggs cooked to order.
The real highlight, however, is the in-house RUG Bakery. You can taste a selection of fabulous pastries and cream-filled buns that easily compete with Copenhagen’s top bakeries. There seems to be a global trend of opening bakeries in luxury hotels, but rarely are these baked treats included with breakfast.
Villa Copenhagen is a stunning hotel with a great concept and I would definitely visit again for the beautiful design and RUG Bakery breakfast. There were a few issues that would be frustrating during a longer stay, but if you can add a reasonably priced Sunday night at Villa to your trip (like we did), I would thoroughly recommend it.
Copenhagen has so many great places to eat, from leading Michelin-starred restaurants to artisan bakeries with the flakiest pastries, and you’ll definitely want to plan your city break around them. The standard of food and hospitality is very high in the Danish capital and you can easily find expert cooking, superior produce and a hyggelig atmosphere all across town.
Eating out there can be expensive for visitors, but I’ve found the best way to enjoy Copenhagen is to order the set dinner menu at a good restaurant, as they are usually well-composed and offer excellent value (as well as fuelling up for the day with a big hotel breakfast).
I first visited Copenhagen a few years ago and had a memorable five-course dinner at Höst, delicious sourdough pizza at Mother, gourmet burgers at Cocks and Cows at Hotel SP34 and warming street food at the Torvehallerne food hall. This time, we discovered more gems and further explored the vibrant Kødbyen (Meatpacking District). Here are some top places to add to your list…
BÆST
BÆST by Michelin-starred chef Christian Puglisi appears on every ‘best pizza in the world’ list and it’s definitely an essential stop on any pizza pilgrimage.
This game-changing Nørrebro restaurant takes a uniquely Danish approach to Italian cooking and has its own sustainable eco system. Fresh ingredients are sourced from Puglisi’s organic Farm of Ideas, while the artisan cheeses and charcuterie are made upstairs in the micro-dairy and salumeria and bread comes straight from the oven at Mirabelle bakery next door.
Pizza, however, is just one aspect of the kitchen’s offering, and you can feast on sharing plates such as BÆST speck and mozzarella, Burrata with Hokkaido pumpkin and grilled herb oil, Chicken thighs with miso glaze and Grilled rib-eye with kale, elderflower and capers. The full BÆST Experience and Sunday Brunch offers a selection of small plates, pizza and dessert, so you can try a bit of everything.
As we were short on time, we enjoyed a lighter lunch of two pizzas, which were served one at a time for sharing. The first pizza – Tomato passata, garlic, BÆST Stracciatella and oregano – was definitely our favourite. The dough was nicely blistered and ever so light and the combination of the extra-juicy tomatoes, creamy Stracciatella, slivers of punchy garlic and fresh micro-herbs was absolutely dreamy.
Pizza number 7 – Savoy Cabbage, smoked BÆST Mozzarella, Hindsholm sausage and Pecorino Romano – was indulgent and complex with high quality meat, a drizzle of oil and a surprising tartness from the cheese. I’d love to go back and try even more of the menu next time.
Fleisch
Copenhagen’s Meatpacking District is packed full of outstanding restaurants and bars and you could easily spend every night there working through them all. One of the best is Fleisch, a white tiled butcher shop, bar and restaurant with a surprisingly cosy atmosphere.
From the name of the restaurant, you might expect it to be a full nose-to-tail experience, but the style of cooking is actually on the classic side. We visited in the evening for the five-course butcher’s menu filled with tempting, varied dishes. To begin, we grazed on moreish Serrano ham and springy sourdough bread with salted butter, while waiting for our sharing starters.
Ceviche of pike perch with yellow chilli, lime, ginger, shallots, radish and black sesame was incredibly fresh and tangy and a real contrast to the hearty, satisfying Crispy croquette of game with stewed kale.
Sirloin beef tartare had a silky texture and mature flavour and it went perfectly with the flavourful pickled parsley roots, porcini mayo and root chips.
The main dish of Fried duck breast, duck sausage, stewed white cabbage, glazed beetroot, prunes and port wine sauce was an absolute delight with rich, seasonal flavours and exceptional, tender meat.
The meal ended on a decadent note with a luscious dessert – Cherry sorbet, cherry compote, creme anglaise and dark chocolate.
If you book one indulgent dinner in Copenhagen, make it Fleisch and you won’t be disappointed.
Warpigs
Just around the corner from Fleisch is Warpigs, a temple of smoked meats, craft beer and rock music. This well-established brewpub specialises in authentic Texan-style barbecue and has an on-site brewery with 22 American-Danish beers on tap.
Warpigs is one of the most popular spots in the Meatpacking District and it can be hard to grab a seat on busy evenings, but it’s definitely worth the wait, especially since there’s no waiting around for your food. It has a bit of a school canteen vibe where you sit at a communal table and queue at the counter for the pit master to fill your tray with different meats, freshly carved and weighed to order. Then, it’s over to the bar to collect the drinks and within moments you can ravenously dig in!
We shared the Trooper Tray packed with 1/4lb spare rib, 1/4 pulled pork, 1/4 link sausage and two side, plus an extra 1/2lb of brisket. The sausages had a touch of curry spice and the meats were so tender and smoky with a punchy dry rub and a thin melt-in-the-mouth layer of fat on the brisket.
The mac and cheese wasn’t very cheesy and the sauce tasted like more of a beer-infused bechamel, but it was still rather scrumptious and the burnt end baked beans were tangy with a real chilli kick. We washed it all down with a delicious Existential Crisis IPA, full of aromatic honey notes.
The soundtrack was more ‘Friday night rock classics’ than the ‘death metal’ that is often mentioned in reviews, but the atmosphere was great and we had a lot of fun. I’ll never forget the entire place singing along to Radiohead’s Creep, forks waving in the air.
Hija de Sanchez
Hija de Sanchez is the place in Copenhagen for authentic Mexican tacos. Chef and restaurateur Rosio Sanchez moved from Chicago to Copenhagen to work at noma and opened her first taqueria in the Torvehallerne food market in 2015. There are now four Hija de Sanchez taquerias and the high-end Sanchez restaurant with a five-course tasting menu in Vesterbro.
Hija de Sanchez uses high quality local meat and vegetables and everything is home-made, from the tortillas to the sauces. For that authentic flavour, the corn and organic quesillo are imported from Mexico.
To try a bit of everything, go for the combo of the day with salsa, including one barbacoa taco, one pastor taco and one vegetarian taco. The meat tacos are rich, generously filled and finished with fresh herbs, however they’re some of the most subtle, singular tacos I’ve tried (keeping with tradition). We also enjoyed sides of tortilla chips and guacamole and red rice with peas, corn, pinto beans and fresh cheese.
Studio x Kitchen
It’s hard to find cafes with a neighbourhood feel in the city centre, but Studio x Kitchen on Dronningens Tværgade has that cosy, friendly vibe. It’s perfect for a light lunch or coffee break and everything is home-made, using high quality ingredients from local farms, and presented on pottery plates.
Go for their signature folded eggs from Søagergård with either Gammel Knas cheese and nduja butter or Birkemosegaard kale, preserved citrus vinaigrette and hazelnuts with home-made sesame focaccia – both delicious. There are also excellent flat whites and artisanal Japanese teas, plus tempting baked treats at the counter.
YOBURGER
On one of our nights in Copenhagen there was a big storm, so a low-key take-out burger was on the cards. We headed for the famous Gasolene Grill, but when it closed early for the evening all was not lost, as YOBURGER (a favourite of Emili Sindlev) was just around the corner.
We went big and ordered a double Yobacon’ Avo Menu each, which came with crispy skin-on fries and a can of soda. The burger was huge and delicious with two patties of ground Danish beef grilled perfectly medium, smoky bacon, half an avocado sliced, gooey American cheese, signature burger sauce, fresh tomato and lettuce all packed inside a Belgian butter brioche bun.
At 159 DKK, it’s probably the most I’ve ever paid for a gourmet fast food burger meal, but the quality was great and it seems in line with similar burger joints in Copenhagen.
Kafeteria
SMK (National Gallery of Denmark) is one of the best art galleries I’ve ever been to, with stunning architecture, excellent curation and a bit of everything on display, from the Dutch Masters to contemporary Danish sculpture. It’s also home to Kafeteria by chef and restaurateur Frederik Bille Brahe, who also operates the stylish Atelier September and Apollo Bar & Kantine.
We enjoyed a light lunch of warming, velvety Pumpkin soup with coconut yoghurt and seeds with fantastic sourdough bread.
Just when we were trying to be healthy, the little girl sitting next to us tucked into the most enormous stack of pancakes with mascarpone and maple syrup and I couldn’t help feeling a touch of food envy, but there’s always next time!
Hooked
One thing I love about Copenhagen is the abundance of fresh seafood, especially when it’s served in a casual street food style. Hooked began as a food truck at the city’s food markets and festivals and it became so popular that its first restaurant opened in 2017.
Its sixth location recently opened at Christianshavn, with a wallet-friendly 20% intro offer, so we popped along for a tasty lunch after an early morning of travelling. It’s a casual, cave-like restaurant where you can drop by or book a table.
I couldn’t resist ordering the deliciously authentic American lobster roll with warm pieces of fresh lobster doused in brown butter and lemon in a toasted brioche bun, finished with chive, mayo and thin crispy onions. It was served with a huge portion of Hooked’s signature chunky vinegar fries (so good) and a moreish truffle mayo dip as part of a combo.
Fish and chips was also excellent with a succulent fillet of pollack fried in spiced breadcrumbs, vinegar fries, pea mint mash and tartar sauce.
Conditori La Glace
There’s something truly magical about Conditori La Glace, Denmark’s oldest patisserie and tea salon (dating back to 1870). In the winter, there is a constant queue in front of the extravagant window displays laden with cakes and sweets, however it’s well worth the wait to get a table.
La Glace specialises in traditional Danish pastries (many named after composers, actresses and royals), confectionery and towering layer cakes. The signature hot chocolate is served in a silver jug with pots of fresh whipped cream and you can visit the counter for a refill.
We paired our hot chocolate with a slice of Cherry Christmas – a decadent, bright red cake with cherries, Christmas spices, mascarpone and an almond base.
We enjoyed La Glace so much that we went back the next day for another warming hot chocolate – it’s hard to resist!
The American Pie Co.
Stumbling across an authentic American pie shop in the middle of Copenhagen was a joyful and unexpected discovery and the aromas of apples and spice lured us in. The American Pie Co. – a cosy cafe and bakery on the corner of Skindergade – has a 1920s diner-meets-apothecary vibe with a big American flag and vintage pie pans adorning the walls.
There is a tempting array of both savoury and sweet pies at the counter – in classic flavours like pumpkin, cranberry, chocolate peppermint and brandy butterscotch.
We ordered a slice of Bourbon pecan pie and Salted apple caramel pie with big glasses filled with hot apple cider. Both pies were absolutely delicious and a good contrast and the hot apple cider was spicy and tangy without being overly sweet.
Slices of pie are also available for take-out and you can order whole pies in advance – I did wonder if we could sneak one back on the plane!
Have you been on a foodie trip to Copenhagen? Where are your favourite places to eat?
Eating out in Copenhagen can get pricey, but look out for those set lunch menus and you can eat very well. Odette is a cosy restaurant in the heart of Copenhagen’s old town and its home-made pasta is fantastic. We had the most delicious pasta dishes and garlic bread to share… ?? Bucatini, eggplant ragout, salciccia, marjoram and Parmesan. ?? Ravioli, pumpkin, ricotta, sage and Pecorino. ?? Bread made from Oland wheat with garlic and thyme. #copenhagen#foodie#denmark#pasta#pastatiktok#restaurant
We all know that Copenhagen is the official hygge city and this feeling of cosy contentment can be found in abundance at Ibsens Hotel.
Part of the boutique group Arthur Hotels, Ibsens is a contemporary urban design hotel occupying a prime spot in the hip Nansensgade area. Right in the centre of the city, it’s just five minutes walk from the dazzling Torvehallerne food market, the Botanical Garden and Nørreport station.
Arrival
On arrival, my first impression of this well-located, mid-priced hotel was that it felt homely and unpretentious with a friendly and relaxed vibe. Check-in was swift and easy and we took the opportunity to have a wander around the open-plan lobby that includes a counter cafe and plenty of space to work or chill out in arm chairs in front of the glowing fireplace. This is where the hotel hosts its daily Cosy Hour, where guests are treated to a complimentary beer or wine before heading out to dinner.
The lobby also has a large collection of artworks and handicrafts that give it a creative ambiance. In fact, Ibsens is the first hotel in the world to accept the alternative currency of ‘art money’ as payment, where emerging artists can use it to pay up to 50% of the room rate and share their inspiration.
The Room
Our X-Large room on the top floor was spacious and ever so charming with painted wooden rafters and a sloped ceiling. It was designed in a cool, neutral palette with a checked carpet floor and highlights of pastel blue and Chartreuse.
The room was furnished in a typically Danish style with a writing desk, LCD TV, plenty of lamps and a wool-felt statement chair. The double bed was extremely comfortable and covered in lovely textured linen and plump cushions from HAY.
The white tiled bathroom was simply functional and petite, however the shower had excellent water pressure and I liked the selection of Nordic Amber bathroom products.
That evening, we dined just three minutes away from the hotel at Höst, an atmospheric and stylish restaurant with a choice of tasting menu and lots of treats in between courses. I highly recommend booking a table there for a truly memorable and creative meal.
However, you don’t even need to leave the comfort of the hotel for some good food, as it houses no less than three eateries. There’s the casual Pintxos Tapas, sleek Japanese-Danish chain Sticks’n’Sushi and the smart Italian restaurant La Rocca that boasts an intimate courtyard for summer al fresco dining.
Breakfast
A real highlight of our stay at Ibsens Hotel was its fresh and seasonal Nordic breakfast with an array of high quality items sourced from local farms and bakeries. We particularly enjoyed the delicious dark chocolate and custard pastries, cured meats and cheese with rustic bread, individual glasses of Skyr yoghurt and fruits or honey and little sticks of chocolate (for the inner child).
Tea lovers will be particularly impressed with the handy tea station offering a selection of artisanal loose leaf teas for a proper morning brew. This tea is also available throughout the day at the cafe, should you wish to curl up in a cosy corner by the fireplace.
The hotel also has some thoughtful touches for guests such as bike rentals at reception, discounted day passes for the next door Ni’mat Spa and guest list admission to nearby Jazzhouse and Global for a night of live music. Also, guests can really feel at home by enjoying a sociable lunch with the hotel staff, served daily in the restaurant at Hotel Kong Arthur. It’s the first time I’ve heard about such an initiative and what better way to get acquainted with a city and hotel than talking with the friendly people behind it.
Ibsens is a wonderful, affordable hotel for those who appreciate a chilled-out stay in the heart of Copenhagen. Rooms range from Tiny for solo travellers to large Suites, so there’s something for all group sizes and budgets. I also highly recommend indulging in the Nordic breakfast, as hot drinks in Copenhagen cafes are surprisingly pricey and you’ll want to start the day with a proper caffeine hit and delicious baked goods.
Copenhagen has a thrilling food scene, whether it’s innovative Michelin star Nordic cuisine, tempting street food or classic Danish bites. In fact, there are so many destination restaurants, new openings and cool brunch spots that you might find it hard to tick them all off your wish list.
Here are a few foodie gems that we discovered during our recent first trip to Copenhagen…
Höst
One of the highlights of our trip was a fabulous dinner at the beautiful and atmospheric Höst. This casual fine Nordic dining restaurant offers a three or five course set menu with a number of inventive dishes in-between courses.
On this food journey, we feasted on delicacies from the Danish land and sea, experiencing a diverse range of flavours with a few ‘wow’ moments along the way.
The experience was flawless and struck the right balance between relaxed and ceremonious. Starting from around £40 for a three-course menu, it’s also great value and more accessible than some of Copenhagen’s high end restaurants.
Mother, in the hip Kødbyen (Meatpacking district), is a casual, buzzing Italian restaurant that serves up authentic Neapolitan pizzas from a wood-fire oven. This regenerated warehouse complex is filled with cool restaurants and bars such as Fiskebar, Gorilla, Paté Paté and Warpigs, and is the place to be for a weekend night out.
Mother has a casual, lively atmosphere and is a top pick if you’re in the mood for something hearty and rustic at a decent price.
While inspiration comes from Italy, Mother has a bit of Danish flair. Not only are the pizza toppings organic and mostly produced in Copenhagen, but the signature sourdough base is made from natural yeasts and purified seawater to make it easier on the stomach.
In the name of research, we tried two contrasting pizzas – a classic Margherita with plenty of creamy mozzarella, simple crushed tomatoes and a chewy, fluffy and nicely blistered dough, and the more adventurous Burning Love. This inventive pizza bianca, topped with mozzarella, potatoes, fried onions and røget spæk (a bit like lardo) was super-rich, like an Alpine tartiflette crossed with a pizza. I highly recommend sharing a few slices of each, as both are delightful and not to be missed.
Cocks & Cows
The burgers at boutique chain Cocks & Cows are often declared the best in the city and it’s easy to see why. We dined at Cocks & Cows inside the stylish SP34 Hotel on our first night there and wolfed down a Cheese ‘n’ Smoke burger and The New Yorker, accompanied by Salt and vinegar fries.
The medium-cooked, flame-grilled burgers were fantastic and generously-sized and we liked the cosy clubhouse feel of the restaurant. It’s definitely the place to satisfy a serious meat craving or attempt The Governator – a burger packed with double everything!
Torvehallerne
One of my favourite spots in Copenhagen was Torvehallerne, a dazzling food hall in the central Nørreport area. It has everything you could hope to find – gourmet Danish smørrebrød at Hallernes, Asian street food by LêLê Street Kitchen, Grød posh porridge, craft beers at Mikkeller & Friends Bottle shop and Summerbird Chocolate.
On a particularly chilly lunchtime, we warmed up over a bowl of delicious home-made soup at Unplugged Juice and couldn’t resist a Cinnamon chocolate snegl from the magnificent Laura’s Bakery.
There are so many tempting foodie bites to try at Torvehallerne that you might want to bring a big bag and stock up for later.
Copenhagen Street Food
Like most major cities, street food is big news and it’s done particularly well at the purpose-built Copenhagen Street Food. Conveniently located on Paper Island next to Freetown Christiania, this indoor food market is packed full of trucks and kiosks offering gourmet bites from around the world.
You can find typical Danish hot dogs at Pølse Kompagniet, Belgian stews and duck-fat fries at Copper and Wheat, Brazilian grilled meat at Brasa and Korean Bulgogi at Bulko. What’s not to love?
Lagkagehuset & Holm
A trip to Copenhagen wouldn’t be complete without copious amounts of Danish pastries. Lagkagehuset (or Ole & Steen as it’s known in the UK) has a number of stylish bakeries across Copenhagen and is a good option for an affordable bite at any time of the day. We found the pizza slices a hearty and surprisingly indulgent choice for lunch. They should definitely be followed with something sweet like a delicious cinnamon social, chocolate rumball or a double chocolate chip muffin.
Holm Bager, next to the sleek Illum department store, has a very similar offering and does a great carrot and walnut milk bun and a giant cinnamon swirl smothered in vanilla frosting.
Other temples of pastry in Copenhagen include Meyers Bageri, Sankt Peders Bageri and Andersen Bakery – try and sample them all, if you can handle it.
Are you tempted by the Copenhagen food scene? Where are your favourite spots for eating out in Copenhagen?
Photos by Chérie City (interiors by Höst and Mother)
A big highlight of our trip to Copenhagen was dinner at the stylish and atmospheric Höst. While Copenhagen boasts a number of high end Michelin starred restaurants and radical neo-bistros, Höst offers affordable fine Nordic dining in a casual yet inspiring setting.
A part of the Cofoco restaurant group, which also includes Väkst at Hotel SP34 where we enjoyed breakfast, Höst is located in the hip Nansengade quarter and it had a buzzing neighbourhood vibe when we visited on a snowy Monday evening.
The restaurant, which means ‘harvest’ in Danish, offers a seasonal set menu of either three or five course, however, this undersells the experience somewhat as it there are many treats in between the courses that make for quite a substantial meal.
We went for the three course dinner menu and were swiftly presented a magnificent appetiser of Juniper-smoked scallop with walnut, sheep’s milk yoghurt, apples and coriander. Our waitress set alight some of the surrounding ferns inside a sea shell to evoke scents of the wilderness. The dish tasted just as beautiful as it looked. The cured scallop was tender and tangy, and was complemented by a fresh, velvety apple emulsion and a mild, snow-like texture from the yoghurt.
Next up was our starter – Baked cod with Jerusalem artichoke, lumpfish roe and fish fumée, which was ladled over the fish at the table. The baked cod was warm and succulent, lightly dusted in hay ash and topped with a generous amount of lumpfish roe (a mildly-flavoured caviar). The fish fumée finished it off nicely with a smoky flavour and pieces of soft artichoke.
A rustic boule of freshly-baked sourdough was served on a bed of dried grains and was paired with a gloriously light and whipped salted Danish butter. I tried not to disrupt the rhythm of the courses too much by filling up on bread, but Steven got stuck in, as it was just so tasty.
Before moving on to the land, we had one last taste of the sea with Poached octopus with ink and blue mussel soup with pickled pear, dill and cress. This dish, with delicate octopus ribbons, was packed full of sweet and sour flavours and the very creamy soup was plesantly cut through with tart little cubes of pear and plenty of grassy fresh green herbs. It was intriguing and characterful and just the right size to not overwhelm.
For our main course, we were treated to Beef sirloin from Grambogaard with beetroot, onions, cep mushrooms and tarragon. The medium-cooked fillet of beef was surprisingly large and ever so tender, topped with a slow-cooked cep mushroom and onion sauce, a nest of fresh beetroot ribbons and finished with a rich, meaty jus. I loved how the beetroot elevated it from a typically indulgent beef dish to something more vibrant and visually-pleasing.
We were offered a short break before dessert to really savour the experience and then it was on to a very special palate cleanser of Pear sorbet with lemon verbena, salted Skyr yoghurt and sugar beet syrup. Our tastebuds had been lulled into contentment with the main course and this pre-dessert jolted them back into action so abruptly that we both almost jumped out of our seats (in a good way).
The first flavour to hit was the salty, whipped yoghurt, which was swiftly countered with the sticky, sweet beet syrup at the bottom. The pear sorbet was juicy and mellow and the powdered lemon verbena added a fragrant taste.
Our final flourish was a dessert of Birch bark ice cream with herbal chocolate, pear and caramel. It may look a little ‘out there’ but it was very moreish – the ice cream had an earthy flavour and the white chocolate crumble was subtle with just a slight hint of caramel and pear cider purée.
Our meal at Höst was so memorable and impressive and while there are still so many Copenhagen restaurants on my list, I’m tempted to return and see what’s on the menu. It doesn’t require noma or Geranium levels of advance booking, but tables can get snapped up quickly – you don’t want to miss this one!
Copenhagen is famed for laid-back style paired with cosiness and this was exactly what I wanted to experience on our first trip to the capital of Denmark. Hotel SP34 does Danish living really, really well with a forward-thinking approach to hospitality, as well as a few nods to convivial traditions.
Location
Part of the design-led Brøchner Hotels, the four star Hotel SP34 comprises three renovated townhouses on Sankt Peder Stræde in the charming Latin Quarter. It’s well-located for exploring Copenhagen and is within walking distance of the Tivoli Gardens, The National Museum of Denmark, shopping in the pedestrianised Strøget street and the leafy Ørstedsparken.
Arriving for Wine Hour
Conveniently, we arrived at Hotel SP34 in time for the daily Wine Hour and as you can imagine, the open-plan hotel lobby was buzzing with couples and friends sipping happily in front of the open fireplace – the epitome of hygge! The SP34 tends to attract an international, creative crowd and its hip lobby scene is a key part of its charm.
Check-in was quick and friendly and I couldn’t help admiring the staff’s stunning uniforms designed by cool Danish designer Stine Goya. After joining in the merriment with a warming glass of Port wine, we headed up to our Superior Double Room on the third floor.
The Room
The room was designed in a luxury bohemian style with furniture custom-made by Scandinavian designers. There were tones of wood and tan leather, moody grey walls, a jewel-like vintage pendant lamp (made specially for the hotel in Sweden) and a statement headboard with fun mini leather cushions. We also loved the typical Latin Quarter bay windows that offered a floor-to-ceiling view of the street below and added a touch of romance to the room.
The two twin beds were seriously comfy, with high quality white linen and proper pillows, as well as a large wall-mounted LCTV. It’s also worth noting that like all of the rooms, we had tea and coffee facilities with a selection of Pukka teas and there was also free high-speed wifi. The room didn’t have a refrigerator for drinks, however guests who book a suite can also enjoy an all-inclusive minibar concept in both the room and the lobby bar.
The bathroom had an urban monochrome feel with sleek white tiles, a powerful walk-in shower, concrete and metal units, fluffy towels and REN bathroom products (no conditioner though, so bring your own).
Burgers at Cocks and Cows
It’s a real treat having great restaurants in your hotel, especially after a day of travelling, and Hotel SP34 boasts three! Since we were having breakfast in Väkst in the morning, we went for gourmet burgers at the casual Cocks and Cows that has a few other locations in Copenhagen.
Its burgers are often named the best in the city and it’s easy to see why. My Cheese ‘n’ Smoke burger with bacon and Cheddar was so delicious with medium-cooked, flame-grilled beef, high quality toppings and tasty sauces. Steven went for the The New Yorker – flavourful and lean sliced chilli-garlic marinated steak inside a bun with aromatic tarragon mayo and creamy basil pesto. We shared a side of Salt & Vinegar Fries, which were golden and hand-chipped with the skin on, and more than enough for two.
Reeservations are essential, especially on a busy Saturday night, and once you’re in the service is super quick and friendly.
Breakfast at Väkst
In the morning, we were excited to have breakfast in Väkst, the beautifully-designed and highly-Instagrammable restaurant run by Copenhagen’s esteemed Cofoco restaurant group. It’s set across two floors with an indoor greenhouse and a staircase laden with plants – like a secret garden.
The organic breakfast was nicely put together by chefs in the open kitchen and while it was mostly Continental, there was the option to add hot items as extras. We feasted on freshly-baked croissants, apple and cinnamon cake, traditional rye bread with Danish salted butter, cold meats and yoghurt with fresh blueberries. It was a lovely way to start the day and we liked that over 90% of the items were organic and sourced locally.
Upon check-out we had the chance to see the lobby in the daylight and spotted some nice touches such as complimentary tea and coffee to take-out and a cabinet where you can buy high-end products and souvenirs.
Other interesting hotel features include an intimate 24-seater screening room with movie nights each evening as well as a seasonal rooftop terrace, the Din Nye Ven (Danish for Your New Friend) cafe-bar and a fitness room.
Hotel SP34 is an urban lifestyle resort with everything you need on your doorstep and is sure to appeal to design-conscious travellers who appreciate thoughtful touches and plenty of hygge. However, your head may also be turned by Brøchner Hotels’ latest property, the highly-anticipated Hotel Danmark opening in April. The hotels are less than ten minutes apart, so if you’re a curious hotel lover, why not try both? I know I will take any excuse to return to Copenhagen!
