Muubaa is quickly becoming the ‘go to’ brand for innovative, butter-soft leather pieces and the Autumn 2011 collection could be the most desirable yet!
Muubaa are known for taking classic, masculine jacket styles and making them feminine and wearable with interesting design details that evoke catwalk trends.
Maple Quilted Biker, £299
The Autumn 2011 collection is made up of sleek biker jackets with quilted panels, elegantly slouchy jackets with cascading collars, long biker macs with waist-tie belts and Victorian-style jackets with delicate buttons.
Christiana Nicolaou, Design Director at Muubaa says of the Autumn ’11 collection:
“I’m really glad that we’ve moved the range even further edgy and with added design details such as removable sleeves (ie. The Charme Aviatress jacket) as I think it adds another dimension to the range. London is know as one of the most innovative capital cities in the world and I really want our range to add to the diversity and sophisticated street style that’s inherently London. The variety inspires me and it’s what is unique about our city.”
Yarrow Long Mac Biker, £389
Of course, now the leather look isn’t exclusive to jackets and Muubaa’s Autumn collection features modern investment pieces such as a long leather pencil skirt, skinny leather trousers, a full leather circle skirt and a minimal Hannah Marshall-style leather t-shirt dress.
The colour palette for Autumn 2011 is made up of earthy, distressed shades including black, bitter chocolate, pyrite grey, rust and coal.
The two best-sellers, I predict, would be the sheepskin gilet (a typical fashion editor’s choice) and the wonderful 3-in-1 Aviatress jacket with detachable sleeves and collar.
Leather has been all over the international catwalks and Autumn/Winter is all about mixing textures – tough leather with chunky knits, shearling with fine wool and soft leather with cashmere tailoring…the list is endless.
In fact, Muubaa’s long belted leather macs are perfect for channelling Haider Ackermann’s stunning Autumn/Winter 2011-12 looks at Paris Fashion Week (at a fraction of the price).
London is a city in constant change, but there’s something curiously traditional about Mayfair with its age-old tailors, gentlemen’s umbrella shops and dusty old arts institutions.
Mayfair has remained defiantly eccentric and there are only a handful of West End hotels where you can experience such character and charm…
Established in 1851, Flemings Mayfair is a real hidden gem – an elegant boutique hotel spread across six Georgian townhouses on the whimsically named Half Moon Street.
Tucked away on a peaceful semi-residential street, Flemings is just a short walk from bustling Green Park, the beautiful shopping arcades and gentlemen grooming shops along Picadilly.
On arrival we were met by Branca Sabbagh, the formidable Guest Services Director, who showed us to our room, which she had personally selected for us.
Our room was magnificent – spacious and beautifully designed in an palette of pearlescent beige, cream, ice green and purple, with accents of silver and glass.
Waiting for us on the table for each of us was a delicately wrapped gift of handmade biscuits with a welcome note.
This was a lovely touch, especially when we saw during our tour of the rooms that every guest receives such a sweet welcome.
Our room had all the comforts that you would want for a home away from home – tea and coffee making facilities, a writing bureau, plenty of comfy seating, lots of storage space, a large flat-screen TV, and a stack of lifestyle magazines to work through.
The king-size bed was heavenly with sumptuous linen and despite the central London location, we had a very peaceful sleep with very few disturbances.
The bathroom was large and covered entirely in marble, just like the traditional London palace hotels. We loved having the luxury of a separate bath and walk-in shower.
The bathroom was furnished with plenty fluffy towels, embroidered Flemings bath robes and slippers and bathroom spa products by Gilchrist & Soames – very fitting for a Mayfair hotel.
The warm, dimly-lit corridors at Flemings are lined with stunning black and white photographs depicting ‘the good life’, from screen goddesses in Hollywood to summer in the Mediterranean and legendary movie scenes.
A counterpoint to the contemporary design of the hotel is a beautiful, traditional stained-glass window, commemorating the opening of the hotel.
After settling in, we headed downstairs for a quick tour of the restaurant, salon and bar areas followed by an exquisite afternoon tea in the front room.
We ordered pots of Earl Grey and Darjeeling second flush tea from the extensive tea menu and worked our way through the cake stand of delights, starting with delicious finger sandwiches.
We munched on warm scones with clotted cream and jam, victoria sponge cake and a delectable range of mini pâtisserie, Primrose Bakery cupcakes and chocolate truffles.
The front room is so relaxing and homely that we made ourselves at home (albeit a much prettier home) and stayed for most of the afternoon. Staff left us to our own devices but came in every so often to top up our tea and offer more hot water.
Flemings has strong links with the Flemings art collection and features a piece of art from the collection in the front room every month.
In the evening we strolled into Soho for dinner at one of our favourite Japanese canteen restaurant, OSatsuma. The Chicken Katsu Curry (£8.50) is slow-cooked and comes in a massive china dish with steamed rice, a soy and ginger side salad and a pot of miso soup.
In the morning, we headed down to breakfast and were greeted by the lovely Darren, Food and Beverage Manager, asked us about our stay and the afternoon tea before showing us to our table.
The continental breakfast breakfast is simple, well-considered and of excellent quality.
We enjoyed a large pot of fresh coffee and ordered Eggs Benedict and a Cheese Omelette with toast from the cooked menu – both delicious.
Everything was beautifully presented and it’s lovely to have breakfast in the restaurant.
After we reluctantly tore ourselves away from the room, we had a tour of the guest rooms and luxury apartments with Branca. There are various colour schemes and rooms are carefully selected to be compatible with each guest’s requirements and duration of stay.
The apartments are mostly used by families staying in London for a number of nights and have a more traditional design than the contemporary hotel rooms.
What sets Flemings apart from other bijou townhouse hotels is the warm, familiar service. Staff are as attentive as you’d expect, but they make a point of remembering guests and building a rapport during the stay. The head staff are visibly proud of Flemings as though it were their own home and to see this dedication is something very special.
Flemings Mayfair is ideal for a first-time stay in the most charming part of London, a romantic getaway or an indulgent shopping weekend. Not only a stunning, design-led hotel, Flemings has such character and a warm atmosphere that you might never want to leave.
Moscow grand cafe culture meets with Parisian haute pâtisserie at Printemps’ pop up Fashion Cafe Pouchkine. Coralie Aude Grassin enjoys a very stylish afternoon tea…
Paris combines two passions: fashion and gourmet food. So much that pastry chefs have designed what could be called Haute Pâtisserie. Each season brings a catwalk of tastes, colours and creativity. A Parisienne would be as enthusiastic for Pierre Hermé’s lastest sweet collection as an elegant dress by Givenchy.
There is a new buzz in town – Café Pouchkine, a legend in Moscow, has opened a pop-up in Le Printemps, presenting exquisite ‘gâteaux à la mode‘.
I just could not resist having a look… well, being a cake-hunter, it was only professional to try them too!
Master pâtissier, Emmanuel Ryon, is quite a star already, having won the international pastry competition as well as been titled France’s best sugar worker.
He loved the challenge of working with two cultures, marrying the very best of each. He looked for inspiration in art books among other sources – you can see how they have been carefully structured, each detail balancing another, the colours chosen to attract the light.
They even achieve the jewel status with a chocolate powdery note or a touch of edible gold. Even macarons have dressed festively, each of them combining two flavours like lemon with a heart of caramel…
The textures are sumptuous. Each cake plays on complex layers – moist, melting, smooth, finger-licking good. We fell in love with:
The Rose Pouchkine – those elegant petals hide a pistachio biscuit with an orchard fruit compote, a cloud like yogurt cream and melting pistachio…
The Moskito – velvety and very cheerful in taste with its variations around pistachios with a vanilla cream and a touch of marzipan.
Simply called red fruit and poppy seed spongecake, this one is an irresistible poem which speaks of spring – biscuit flavoured with Bourbon vanilla, poppyseeds, gorgeous red fruit jelly, unctuous cream made with Russian cream cheese.
And our favourite, the Rose du Tsar – you will spend as much time admiring its perfection as savouring each spoonful. Chocolate mousse on a light brownie base, fragrant blackberry and jasmine jelly, and golden chocolate gems… how precious!
Why not try them with an aromatic tea or a traditional hot chocolate, served in an old-fashioned silver pot? Alternatively, you can buy a selection to take away and mind you, they survive the Eurostar quite well…
In celebration of Paris Fashion Week, Fashion Café Pouchkine has also created a range of delectable cakes inspired by the collections of designers including Chloé, Marni and Dries Van Noten.
But hurry, as Café Pouchkine is only to be enjoyed until March 26.
Coralie Aude Grassin discovers the delights of Paris’ chic, historical quartier, Le Marais…
A few things to do in the neighbourhood – a splendid place to stroll around with buildings made of golden stone, sculptures above the doors, shops, cafés and restaurants aplenty:
– Walk through the historical Jewish quarters – the main street is the rue des Rosiers. Stop at the traditional pâtisseries for a cake, bagel, or beautiful bread…
– Alternatively, enjoy a brunch or afternoon tea at Mariage Frères. I love their colonial decoration, beautiful wooden cases sheltering hundreds of different creations…
Pictures are not permitted but look closely at the reflection in the teapot to have a glimpse of the tea room with its glass roof!
We chose the classical brunch (32€). There is enough to be shared by two: a pot of tea of your choice, a freshly squeezed fruit juice, toasted brioche with their refined tea jellies, scrambled eggs with matcha tea, pink prawns brochette, spring rolls of smoked salmon, and a home made pastry (we chose the chocolate mousse cake with a filling of wild strawberries – unforgettable).
– Are you a museum fan? Try the Musée Carnavalet for a glimpse of the history of Paris – fascinating.
– Go street art hunting! You will find lots of surprises on the walls. If you do not know where to start, try with these Space Invader mosaics very popular in that neighbourhood.
– Let yourself be seduced by the perfumes of the Artisan Parfumeur on rue des Francs Bourgeois. Each of them are like a poem. Try those based on tea and blackberry!
– You will feel like knocking at all the doors – many have those gorgeous knobs…
– Look out for the 1900s pastry shops and bakeries. Though most have been transformed into shops, their handpainted illustrations are grade II listed – worth stopping!
Stay at Hotel du Petit Moulin, a luxurious city hideaway in the heart of Le Marais, designed by Christian Lacroix.
Where are your favourite places in Le Marais? Have you stayed at Hotel du Petit Moulin? Share your experiences below…
Coralie Aude Grassin steps into the magical, illustrated world of Christian Lacroix at Hotel du Petit Moulin…
Hidden in le Marais, the beating heart of the city, hides a tiny but luxurious hotel called Le Petit Moulin, which has been redecorated by the famous fashion designer Christian Lacroix.
The artist was seduced by this most unusual space, which used to be one of the oldest Parisian bakeries (Victor Hugo used to buy his bread here). It does retain its gorgeous and romantic original 1900 facade – easy to still be mistaken and walk by…
Step in the elegant lounge, reflecting the colours of the historical ceiling. The decoration mixes styles, colours, patterns – very Lacroix indeed. Each of the 17 rooms offers a different atmosphere, all inspired by the neighbourhood.
It is quite a surprise to push one door – will it be pop, zen, colourful as a rainbow? But wait, the journey starts from the lift…
Ours was number 202 and was created with travels in mind. Look at that Indian style panel! The ceiling still shows the wooden beams, celadon painted pillars add a lovely twist.
Every detail seems to have been thought of, even down to the the light switches!
The secret lies in the superposition of styles, collage, imitated stencil effects on the wall paper, collection of patterns and textures… The room was best enjoyed in the evening, the dimmed light playing elegant shadows, creating a rather magical effect.
The bathroom was more classical and very white, though others in the hotel prove more original, some with gorgeous heart shaped mirrors. On the side are Anne Semonin sample products – wonderfully aromatic. The exotic verbena bath gel is pure heaven after a day walking and shopping – it takes all the tensions away and leaves a gorgeous fragrance on the skin.
I was lucky to get a glimpse of the nearby room too – with its energetic fuchsia theme, it is sure to put you in the mood for a party. How could you not feel elegant and glamorous in such a surrounding?
Breakfast is served in the bar area, in which decoration is clearly influenced by Mondrian on once side, while offering a Lacroix sketch book style on the other. You end up gazing around, lost in details and forgetting that your cup of French coffee is getting cold in your hand…
The whole sour affair surrounding John Galliano and his subsequent expulsion from Dior has left us heartbroken and disappointed to see a dark, unpalatable side of the legendary master of couture.
The wounds are still fresh and Galliano’s financial involvement with LVMH is complex to say the least, but business must continue and a successor found.
So who could possibly replace John Galliano at the helm of Dior? Will the new designer take the maison in a completely new direction or look to the archives the restore a sense of stability? Take a look at the closest contenders…
Mutterings in fashion circles suggest that Italian designer Riccardo Tisci will make the move from fellow LVMH brand Givenchy. During his five years with Givenchy, Tisci has transformed it into a youthful, desirable brand with his dark, rock ‘n’ roll aesthetic.
The move would mirror Galliano’s own sidestep from Givenchy to Dior and although Tisci has made Givenchy his own, the cachet of Dior may prove an alluring option.
Alber Elbaz has also been named as a potential replacement and with his amiable nature and reverence to Lanvin’s heritage, he would be a desirable choice. But would Elbaz want or need to leave Lanvin while at the height of his career?
Olivier Theyskens charmed critics with his demi-couture at Rochas and developed a more wearable aesthetic at Nina Ricci. Fashion editors have been going mad for his sleek tailoring at Theory, but it’s possible that he’d jack in bon chic for a more creative role in the blink of an eye.
However, Theyskens’ anti-capitalist philosophy may constantly be at odds with Dior’s courting of a more trashing monogram-mad market, which defines most of the brand’s sales. He’s turned the job down twice already, but the current crisis could mean a more attractive offer from Dior.
Ironically, Anna Wintour recently claimed that the Rodarte sisters had the ‘Imagination and originality to be in the same spirit as a John [Galliano] or an Alexander.’ Now it could be time to put La Wintour’s prophecy to the test.
Kate and Laura Mulleavy have the gothic, theatrical sensibilities to continue Dior’s otherworldly aesthetic, but it’s questionable whether they would fit the corporate LVMH mould.
Other potential candidates are said to be from the LVMH stable – Phoebe Philo of Céline and the group’s golden boy Marc Jacobs.
Phoebe Philo’s minimalist-luxe vision for Céline is worlds apart from the playful decadence of Dior and would Marc Jacobs really leave Louis Vuitton, which seems to run perfectly in tandem with his eponymous label?
Who do you think will succeed John Galliano at Dior? Will Dior play it safe or take a chance on a younger designer?
Claridges Ballroom was transformed into a fantastical rural retreat, complete with birdsong, sleeping foxes and giant toadstools, ready for the arrival of Mulberry’s country girl.
The Mulberry show is a cherished highlight of the London Fashion Week schedule, as it is one of the few British brands that celebrates the English Eccentric.
After a few days of skeletal sternness on the catwalk, Mulberry warmed our hearts with woodland creatures, catwalk pooches, blackcurrant fruit juice and adorable toadstool cupcakes with radioactively bright red frosting.
Leading on from last season’s Secret Garden collection, the Mulberry girl gets back to her country roots and reacquaints herself with Roald Dahl’s ‘Fantastic Mr Fox’.
Inspired by Mulberry’s hunting, shooting and fishing heritage, the Autumn/Winter 11-12 collection is full of outerwear for country pursuits, albeit with luxe gold details from the new Tillie bag.
Staying true to the decadently dishevelled look, the Mulberry girl leaves the family pile for a ramble, throwing on a trusty duffle coat over an exquisite gold lamé, knife-pleat evening gown.
An autumnal palette of Mole Grey, Fox Brown, Conker and Red Onion was at play with accents of Bright Cabbage, Hedgehog Bronze, Foxglove Pink and Lavender.
Chunky corduroy duffle coats with matching a-line skirts appeared alongside quilted satin dresses embellished with floral sequins and prim knife-pleat silk collared dresses covered in Mulberry’s peace and love print.
A stand out look was a fuchsia silk drop-waist dresses under a boxy plum tweed blazer – a juxtaposition of matronly and girly.
Those who have invested in shearling jackets will be pleased to know that they’re here to stay, as well as macs, fuzzy gilets, shooting jackets and swing coats.
Mulberry certainly has the flesh under lock and key for Autumn/Winter with buttoned up collars, skirts that sit on the knee or the ground and sumptuous polo neck knits. Even when the old gal does shows a bit of leg, they are encased in scholarly ribbed knee socks that may or may not have been pinched from a teasing, raffish brother.
Seduction came from the smooth, silken, ever so slightly wind-swept locks created by Sam McKnight.
The next season looks were completed with Bayswaters embellished with adorable fox rivets, over-sized Alexas, current favourite the Tillie and the insanely covetable new Taylor bag.
Our furry friends will also be well equipped for the cold/front row with the rather stylish Tillie quilted dog mac or the Fisherman dog coat, complete with all of the same posh hardware.
Warning: such doggy apparel could make your pampered pooch feel so fierce that they try to start a rumble with a Pomeranian by-stander…poor Butters!
Catwalk images by Mulberry and venue photos by Chérie City.
Ada Zanditon has carved a reputation as the ‘one to watch’ when it comes to British sustainable fashion.
While many ethical designer play it safe and focus on ethical production as their niche, Ada presents a complex, architectural aesthetic that speaks to a younger, edgier buyer.
Ada Zanditon’s Autumn/Winter 2011-12 collection, ‘The Cryoflux’, took inspiration from the extreme climate of Antarctica. A palette of icy marine and navy were contrasted with warming shades of flame – reflecting natural fire and ice elements.
Ada builds on her signature geometric digital prints, incorporating them on a stunning, bandeau evening dress with gathered side detail and a beautifully cut jersey top.
My absolute favourite part of the collection was the elegant tailoring combining navy wool and black leather.
The panelled leather a-line dress is sure to be a best-seller and the exquisite 3/4 length culotte suit with ruched leather sleeves and contrasting lapels shows Ada’s skills as an innovative tailor.
The most beautiful piece in the collection has got to be this black and marine double ombre chiffon belted dress.
The fluid length, belted waist and fading away colour make wearable while being a statement piece.
I’m not sure I’ll be able to resist bagging this dress when it arrives at YoungBritishDesigners.com come Autumn!
Ada Zanditon has also collaborated on a jewellery collection with Luca Romanyi, with large, geometric piece crafted from printed tile, silver chain and vegetable-tanned leather.
The wrap-around heels were a talking point at the presentation and they reminded me of Zaha Hadid’s futuristic rubber designs for Melissa.
The Ada Zanditon presentation was my first foray into the disaster that was the new On|Off venue.
Designers shouldn’t be held accountable for the misjudged venue choice, that saw numerous international fashion editors left out in the cold due to ‘over-crowding’, but still, it’s impossible to ignore that this did impact on the atmosphere and efficiency of the presentation.
With all the crowds, I just couldn’t connect with the video and instead of putting it on a loop, perhaps a series of screenings would work better.
But really, I’d like to see Ada Zanditon get her own catwalk show. Her pieces and creative vision require the exposure of a proper show to give her the commercial boost that she deserves.
Come to Dalston, east London, and it’s more than likely that the sea of kaleidoscope hair colours and fierce patterned nails have come fresh from WAH Nails and BLEACH.
Now you won’t need to trek all the way to Dalston on the 149, just pop into TOPSHOP to get a brand new pastel-coloured, irreverent look during London Fashion Week.
BLEACH is a temple of grunge, with directional techniques including dip-dye, super bleaching and gradient colours.
BLEACH was founded by session stylist Alex Brownsell and Super Agent Sam Teasdale, who recreate editorial looks from their two-chair salon in Dalston.
Now, if you really wanted to do a proper Kurt Cobain, you’d dip your locks in strawberry Kool Aid, but unless you want to smell like a milkshake everyday, put yourself in the hands of the experts!
BLEACH opens in the basement of TOPSHOP Oxford Street from 18 February. For more info, visit: bleachlondon.tumblr.com
A shopping mall opening in Shoreditch probably should be treated with huge suspicion, but Boxpark is the antithesis of the usual temples of mass-produced stuff.
The world’s first pop-up shopping mall, Boxpark Shoreditch is made entirely of shipping containers, making it a low cost, low risk and fleeting retail concept.
The space will be made up of boxshops, housing 50 specially selected fashion, arts and lifestyle brands, galleries and cafes.
The purpose of Boxpark is to support emerging designers and small brands, allowing their businesses to grow without the high rent or lengthy contracts.
A Shoreditch boutique would usually be a distant dream for most new designers, so Boxpark could be a great platform to get exposure and test the market.
It will be interesting to see just how creative Boxpark will be and which brands will get involved. Watch this space for more news…
Boxpark Shoreditch is located at the Goodsyard and will open in August 2011. For more info, visit: www.boxpark.co.uk
Summer in Marrakech has long been top of my travel list – exploring the labyrinth of the Medina, shopping at the souks, eating authentic tagines and sipping mint tea at sundown.
If you’ve always marvelled at the ornate patterns on Moroccan architecture and ceramics, Marrakech riad Dar Les Cigognes is running a three-day Traditional Pottery Course in the centre of Marrakech in June.
The workshop will be led by Julio Miranda Thiel, a hugely successful potter originally from Chile and a long time resident of Marrakech.
Over the three days the group (limited to ten people) will take part in:
– Two half days in a local master potters studio – trying out local techniques and learning about the art of Moroccan pottery
– Visit to a number of galleries and stalls selling the best and most interesting pottery in Marrakech.
– Dinner hosted by Julio Miranda Thiel with talk on the artistic scene in Marrakech.
– Final night rooftop party with local dancers, flamethrowers, snake charmers and magicians.
Opposite the Royal Palace, Dar Les Cigognes was one of the first riad hotels to open in Marrakech and was originally a wealthy merchant’s house, dating back to the 16th century.
Dar Les Cigognes is now a stylish bolthole with individually designed rooms reflecting the culture and history of Morocco.
In between crafting pots and exploring the Medina, you can relax in the hammam, try a massage using Dar Les Cigognes’ own blended Argan oil or swim in the rooftop pool.
Rates from €570 (£480 approx) for three nights from 13th-16th June on a B&B basis at Dar Les Cigognes including 2 half days pottery course, gallery visits, hosted dinner and final night party.
Kara Belleville discovers a natural Chinese way to radiant skin at the John Tsagaris Clinic, Knightsbridge…
The guru who introduced natural Botox through facial acupuncture had almost every beauty editor in a spin. The youthful, bright and plump skin led to panic blocking his one hour sessions with an all together different kind of needle.
At John’s uber fabulous new Knightsbridge Clinic the latest treatment involves again his masterful hands (two huge balls of energy), his experience and wisdom of facial Shiatsu and the modern science of Hyaluronic acid. No needles. I am relieved.
Skin Poetry starts with facial shiatsu which invigorates facial energy and blood circulation. The facial muscles are then stretched and relaxed releasing all tension around the eyes. This is great if in the midst of a thumping migraine.
The Hyaluronic acid helps to drain puffiness and fluid retention giving a brighter, less stressed complexion.
I love that this treatment is called Skin Poetry – after a month of new year dieting, my skin poem was ‘grey is how my face starts the day’.
John, being a doctor in Chinese medicine draws from ancient therapies of a time gone by but these therapies create treatments which deliver healthy beautiful skin – timeless skin bliss!
I am booking in for my next 30 minute Skin Poetry (£110), as a monthly treat to keep my skin looking fresh and plump, the start of a healthy skin poem.
