Edinburgh has become one of my favourite cities for a stylish weekend break. Not only is it a beautiful city with incredible architecture and (mostly) free national museums, but there are so many new hotel and restaurant openings to discover.
On my recent trip, I just had to stay at Eden Locke, the debut outpost of Locke aparthotels in Scotland. Staying at a Locke apartment means more space and home comforts than your average hotel, topped off with Insta-worthy interiors.
I’ve previously stayed at Kingland Locke in Dalston and Leman Locke in Aldgate and loved the vibe of both London properties, so I was excited to see how Eden Locke would compare.
Location
Eden Locke has a typically Scottish sense of understated elegance, set across an 18th century Georgian mansion on prestigious George Street in the New Town (a UNESCO Heritage Site). It’s perfectly located among Edinburgh’s high end shops and restaurants and is within walking distance of the verdant Princes Street Gardens, Scottish National Gallery and St Andrew Square. The Old Town and Waverley Station are around 15 minutes on foot.
Design
Like most Locke properties in the UK, Eden Locke has been designed by acclaimed New York architects Grzywinski+Pons. They have expertly transformed a rather sober building into a dreamy, pastel-hued sociable residence. There is a subtle tropical feel to the public areas with wicker chairs and sprawling plants, plus highlights of gold and striking mustard that can be found throughout.
Arrival
It instantly feels like a cool place to stay, as you walk into the light-filled, open-plan pistachio and vanilla coffee bar and lounge. The reception desk is seamlessly perched at one side of the bar and there are plenty of smiling, friendly staff on hand to welcome guests and store luggage – we never noticed any queues.
Mayvn Cafe
Before heading out for lunch at the brilliant Noto, we had a quick caffeine refuel at Mayvn Cafe, Eden Locke’s third wave coffee shop, natural wine bar and co-working space by local experts, Common. It’s also a port in the storm for Edinburgh locals, who flock here for the excellent coffee, juices and pastries and laptop-friendly atmosphere.
The Studio
Our first floor Mezzanine Studio was a real gem with large Georgian windows flooding the space with natural light, perfectly showing off the pretty two-tone pastel walls. The homely, open-plan lounge features Locke’s signature L-shaped sofa in an attractive pistachio shade with a bright coral lamp, shaggy rug and a large Smart TV with Google Chromecast and Apple box.
The Kitchen
The powder blue kitchen has all the designer essential for a long or short stay with a marble dining table, handy dishwasher, washer/dryer, fridge/freezer, oven/hob and gold cooking utencils. There’s also a kettle with ground coffee and Field Work Teas and fresh milk in the fridge.
The Bedroom
The bedroom on the upper floor feels cosy and slightly separated with a comfortable double bed with a torteoiseshell padded headboard, a colourful wool throw, luxurious waffle bathrobes and slippers and plenty of storage space.
The Bathroom
Contrasting the pastel aesthetic with touches of bold mustard, the bathroom is sleek and well-sized with a powerful rainfall shower, fluffy cotton towels and Kinsey Apothecary bath products.
Eden Locke has 72 studios and suites in various sizes, but it’s worth booking a brighter studio on the front of the building.
There is no gym or spa, however every apartment has a yoga mat and the hotel has a partnership with East Side Yoga and fitness app Fiit, so you can sign up for 30 days free access to over 700 online workouts.
Eden Locke is a fabulous base for exploring Edinburgh, especially if you’re looking for a home away from home. I would definitely stay again and am keen to check out Locke’s upcoming openings in Berlin, Copenhagen and Paris.
For more Edinburgh travel ideas, read my reviews of:
Parisian style meets Danish design at Coco Hotel, a sustainable boutique hotel in Copenhagen’s hip Vesterbro neighbourhood.
Coco opened in 2019 and has become popular among travellers for its chic, affordable rooms and verdant inner courtyard where locals cycle over to spend their evenings over glasses of natural wine.
You may already be familiar with its owner – it’s the first hotel from Copenhagen Food Collective (known as Cofoco), the brains behind buzzing Copenhagen restaurants like Høst, Scarpetta, Les Trois Cochons, Vaekst and Vespa.
Arrival
It’s impossible to miss Coco Hotel on Vesterbrogade with its colourful Parisian-style striped awnings and traditional pavement cafe tables. We arrived after 5pm and found the hotel beautifully decorated for Christmas and in a rather jolly mood, as guests were midway through the complimentary wine hour.
We were warmly welcomed by the friendly, dynamic team and swiftly given the old school brass tassel key to our room (don’t worry, they take care of it while you’re out).
Cafe Coco & Coco Bar à Vin
The reception curves around to the open-plan Cafe Coco, a casual space with French art posters, bistro-style tables and cosy nooks. Here you can enjoy light meals including morning pastries and organic coffee, healthy avocado toast and burrata for lunch and an evening cheeseboard with charcuterie and sourdough.
From 4pm, the cafe and leafy courtyard seamlessly become Coco Bar à Vin, offering over 150 different wines carefully chosen by the sommelier.
The Room
The hotel’s 88 rooms range from a petite Single Room to a spacious Junior Suite and there is a Family Suite with a separate room and Playstation 4 for kids.
We were instantly charmed by our cute, bohemian Small Double Room and found it slightly more spacious than expected. It reminded me of Hotel Amour and Le Pigalle in northern Paris, but with a sense of Nordic simplicity.
The neutral greige walls were complemented by stylish rattan furniture, a brass clothes rail and a retro photography print above the wooden headboard custom-built by local furniture makers Københavns Møbelsnedkeri.
The double bed was extremely comfortable with a plush Auping mattress, organic cotton linen and plump pillows – we slept very well during our stay. The large windows opened out to the courtyard (so the room was nice and quiet) and there was also a flatscreen TV, free wifi, a selection of art books and a gourmet organic snack tray.
Tea and coffee facilities and a mini fridge would offer some home comforts, however they are not offered due to the hotel’s environmental policy.
Edit: we enjoyed Coco Hotel so much that we visited again in 2024 and stayed in a Superior Double Room with bright blue walls, overlooking the street. Everything was excellent and it was worth choosing the larger room for more space, although I did prefer the Christmas tree view over the courtyard.
The Bathroom
The bathroom was petite and spotlessly clean with smooth pastel pink tiles, a walk-in shower, fully opening windows (a rarity in hotels these days), eco-friendly Hopal toiletries and a gorgeous Laboratorio Olfattivo handwash. I was particularly impressed with the powerful underfloor heating, which made the room feel even more cosy.
Breakfast
Each morning, we started the day with breakfast at Delphine, the hotel’s bright and spacious sister restaurant just across the road. The organic breakfast buffet was simple but high quality with a selection of freshly-baked breads, flaky pastries, Danish cured meats and cheeses, soft boiled eggs, pomegranate and coconut chia pudding and a selection of fresh juices.
Some scrambled eggs and bacon would have made it feel more indulgent, but clearly the hotel has a healthier approach.
Amenities
Coco Hotel is nothing like Copenhagen’s many corporate hotels, so you won’t find a business centre, event spaces or a gym. Instead, you can play ping pong in the 5th floor games room and take advantage of the hotel’s health and wellbeing partnerships with Vesterbronx Gym, Ara’Kai beauty, AIRE Ancient Baths Copenhagen and STUDIO 41 Pilates.
Sustainability
Denmark is officially the second greenest country in the world (just behind Sweden) and Green Key certified Coco Hotel has its own clever sustainability practices. Cofoco owns a solar park in Jutland, which powers the hotel and the entire restaurant group with clean, green energy. Coco Hotel also partners with Eden Reforestation Projects to help plant trees in Kenya.
Location
Coco Hotel is in the heart of lively Vesterbro surrounded by notable restaurants, cafes, bars and bakeries and conveniently, an easy 10-minute walk from Central Station. Also nearby is the Meatpacking District, where you can dine around hotspots like Fleisch, Warpigs, Mother and Hija de Sanchez. For a spot of culture, Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, the National Museum of Denmark and the iconic Tivoli Gardens are just 20 minutes away on foot.
Impressions
Coco Hotel is the perfect choice for a relaxed, budget-friendly city break in Copenhagen, especially if you love characterful hotels in a cool, creative area. It has plenty of Wes Anderson-style eccentricities but everything functions well and it generally exceeded my expectations.
A Geordie weekend brunch is serious business, so be prepared for some next level scran with killer portion sizes that will set you up for the day. From perfect pancake stacks and French toast to spicy Shakshuka and Eggs Benny, morning food reigns supreme here and the local love for hash browns is real!
Here are some of the best places for an all-day breakfast fix in Newcastle upon Tyne…
Aidan’s Kitchen
Let’s start with a banger… Aidan’s Kitchen is one of my favourite brunch spots not just in Newcastle, but anywhere! This petite cafe on the corner of Starbeck Road in Sandyford is dedicated solely to breakfast and brunch and draws a big crowd every day.
Chef Aidan Jackson takes a creative approach to classic morning dishes and uses top ingredients from local suppliers including Northern Rye. You can enjoy delights such as Jalapeno eggs royale, Shakshuka, French toast and unreal pancake stacks.
Favourites are the rich Beef shin ragu on toasted sourdough with tangy salsa verde and a fried egg and the indulgent Braised ham hock with sautéed field mushrooms, buttery scrambled eggs and smooth hollandaise sauce on toasted sourdough. The full English breakfast is also hard to beat.
It’s essential to find some room for Aidan’s signature pancake stacks loaded with dulce de leche, bananas, chantilly cream and chocolate shavings. They also come in half portions (still monster-sized) so you can share some for dessert.
Gosforth folk can now also get a piece of the breakfast action at newly-opened Little Aidan’s – it’s small but just as good!
Cook House
Local favourite Cook House has long been the crown jewel of Newcastle’s Ouseburn Valley and now it has the ultimate recognition from the critics, gaining a prestigious Michelin Plate in 2021.
Chef, author and restaurateur Anna Hedworth started Cook House in two converted shipping containers, after leaving a career in architecture for the kitchens of London’s Rochelle Canteen and Quo Vadis and hosting regular supper clubs.
Cook House now has a permanent home at Foundry Lane Studios, set across two floors with a provisions stores, garden and sunny outdoor terrace. It has a cosy, rustic feel with a striking wall mural, dried flowers and a roaring wood burner. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Cook House’s menu follows the seasons and highlights the best local produce.
We visited for brunch and were impressed with the sizzling skillet of Baked eggs in cream with ham and curried leeks with sourdough toast – so unique and satisfying. We were also wowed by the lighter yet heavenly Spiced pancakes with apple compote, sultanas, almond crumble, Greek yoghurt and honey.
We washed them all down with a flat white and fresh mint tea and they also make home-made shrubs, cordials and syrups.
Kiln
Another Ouseburn gem is Kiln, an all-day cafe, bar and restaurant set in a former car garage just moments away from the canal. As the name reveals, Kiln also houses its own ceramics studio, where potter Jun Rhee creates pots, vases and tableware for clients including the UK’s top Michelin-starred restaurants.
Kiln’s dishes are a mix of Middle Eastern and Northumbrian cuisine – creative and richly-spiced, using ingredients by top local producers and bread made in-house. The menu changes frequently, but we can highly recommend the delicious Flat iron steak with fried egg, salsa verde and sourdough and Sea bass fillet open sandwich with cherry tomatoes and garlic aioli.
The Kiln team have also recently opened Patina, an ambitious restaurant, cafe, bakery and arts space in Edinburgh – one to add to your list for any Scotland trips.
BURDS
BURDS is one of the best places to enjoy brunch in Jesmond, whether it’s on the glorious, leafy sun terrace in the summer or in the cosy Gatehouse cafe during the colder months. Chef Ross Sinclair’s dishes are always super indulgent and generously-sized, using the best local produce from the likes of Charlotte’s Butchery.
Everything we’ve tried at BURDS has been next level, so you can’t go wrong with the Eggs Benny, an induldent grilled cheese with cherry cola ham, shakshuka or my personal favourite, The Muff – a luxury McMuffin dupe with a homemade pork patty, crispy bacon, golden hash brown, fried egg, American cheese and ketchup on a toasted English muffin.
If you have any room left, the counter is filled with delicious baked goods from Pet Lamb Patisserie and nearby Cake Stories.
Claremont Teahouse
Pair your brunch with a specialist loose-leaf brew at Claremont Teahouse next to Newcastle University at Haymarket. This all-day tea and coffee house is owned by Dot Bagels, so you can get a next level bagel fix (including the legendary Salt on Chilli Road or a North East Parmo) alongside classic breakfast and lunch dishes.
The buttermilk pancakes and the enormous Full English are both fantastic and available all day.
Smoke & Sear Kitchen
Smoke & Sear Kitchen started as a local food truck and then took up residency at the Quayside’s HWKRMRKT. Its new home on Heaton Road may look like a cute caff with wood-panelled decor, but it is in fact a temple to live-fire cooking over wood and charcoal.
High-welfare meat is sourced from legendary butcher Block + Bottle, just a few doors down, and given the Smoke & Sear treatment in a Josper charcoal oven and wood-fired smoker.
I was wowed by the Steak and eggs – strips of flat iron steak with fried eggs, sweet fire-roasted red pepper sauce and house green sauce. Equally delicious is the Steak supper – strips of bavette steak in signature Newcastle Brown Ale marinade with garlic butter, apple slaw, salsa verde, remoulade sauce and home-made triple-cooked fries. A side of crunchy, salty home-made hash browns is also a must, to scoop up all of those yummy home-made sauces.
Beyond steak, the menu is full of tempting dishes like coconut prawn sandwich, Toon pastrami on Northern Rye sourdough, beer-braised short rib burger and mac ‘n’ cheese bombs.
Harvest Canteen
Harvest is a chilled out coffee house with plenty of outdoor seating on St George’s Terrace in Jesmond. It’s the flagship cafe from Ouseburn Coffee Company (OCC), whose expertly roasted coffee can be found at food markets around the north east, as well as the coffee bar in Fenwick Food Hall.
The Harvest all-day breakfast and brunch menu isn’t huge, but you can find poached eggs on toasted sourdough with a range of toppings, avocado smash, toasted crumpets, honey granola with yoghurt and berries and scrumptious pancakes with fresh strawberries, ice cream and chocolate sauce.
Cafe 21 at Fenwick
Since opening in 2006, Cafe 21 at Fenwick has been known as Newcastle’s ‘fashion cafe’, tucked away in the corner of the department store’s French Salon, among rails filled with Roksanda, Ganni, Stine Goya and Proenza Schouler.
It’s the more casual daytime offering from Chef Terry Laybourne’s popular restaurant group, which includes the Quayside’s acclaimed 21, St. Vincent and The Broad Chare pub (with a Michelin Bib Gourmand), plus Porterhouse Butcher and Grill and Saltwater Fish Company at Fenwick Food Hall.
They do a fantastic, authentic Croque Madame loaded with gooey cheese, bechamel and honey-roast ham, served with a dressed green salad and cornichons. I usually order it with a side of crispy French fries and a pot of Rington’s Earl Grey Tea. It’s also worth trying the delicious truffle burger, steak frites or the signature Cheddar cheese and spinach souffle.
Quay Ingredient
There’s nothing better than a hearty breakfast at local institution Quay Ingredient followed by a brisk walk along the Quayside. It’s a small, cheerful coffee house nestled under the Tyne Bridge, offering well-priced brunch dishes with a few surprises.
The Full English is an epic feast with all of the fixings and should only be attempted if you bring your appetite. Otherwise, go for a traditional Geordie stottie filled with bacon and a fried egg, Dutch pancakes or their creative versions of Eggs Benedict with tempura tiger prawns or confit duck and plum Hollandaise.
Be sure to leave some room for a gooey, molten Nutella brownie, it’s definitely worth it!
Grey Owl
You really can’t miss Grey Owl, as its numerous glass chandeliers bathe elegant Grey Street in a warm, golden glow. This stunning cafe and cocktail bar in a former jewellers next to the Theatre Royal is the little sister of nearby high-end restaurant Hibou Blanc. It’s a stylish spot to start the day over a tasty breakfast, refuel during a shopping trip or enjoy after-work Negronis with a charcuterie board and fresh oysters.
The brunch menu is quite concise, but we found the Eggs Benedict and Turkish Eggs to be high quality and perfectly cooked.
Have you been to any of these Newcastle brunch spots? Where are your favourite places?
There’s nowhere quite like Copenhagen at Christmas, especially when you stay somewhere just as memorable as the destination itself. 25hours Hotel Indre By opened this spring and it truly captures the magic of the Danish capital.
I’ve stayed at 25hours Hotels in Cologne and Hamburg, however each house is totally unique, so there was a lot to discover.
The hotel sprawls across a grand 19th century building which was once a porcelain factory, followed by a paper mill in the 1800s and later University of Copenhagen’s school of theology and law. References to the building’s heritage can be found throughout the hotel, as art and knowledge meet for a stylish sleepover.
Its Indre By (inner city) location couldn’t be any better, especially for Copenhagen first-timers, as it’s right in the middle of the action, between the historic Round Tower and the bustling Kobmagergade shopping street.
Designed by Martin Brudnizki Design Studio, the hotel is a wonderland of colour, echoing the rich palette that you will see on the streets of Copenhagen’s old town. Antique and vintage finds sit among bespoke pieces by Danish designers and makers, keeping the air miles to a minimum.
Arrival
Walking through the front door, we were immediately dazzled and overwhelmed by the size of the residence. Within moments we were at the centre of The Assembly Bar, a light-filled atrium lounge with exotic wall tapestries, comfy sofas and a fabulous island bar.
This inviting bar leads off to the reception and a warren of chilled out guest spaces, from the retro, neon glow of the Vinyl Room to the bijou, blood red Love Library.
In the middle of the lobby is a Harry Potter-esque whirlwind book sculpture and vintage typewriters (for writing love letters from a faraway land), inspired by the building’s paper mill history. There’s also the 25h things shop with a curated selection of local products and unusual finds – ideal for cool souvenirs.
Check-in was friendly and welcoming and we were swiftly navigating the myriad of brightly-coloured hallways to our room on the first floor.
The Room
The hotel boasts 243 rooms, ranging from the cosy Medium Single to the impressive Gigantic suite at 55-59sqm. Continuing the hotel theme, the room have two distinctive styles – ‘passion’ or ‘knowledge’. Judging by the curtains artfully illustrated with a tangle of naked bodies, our Medium room was clearly in the passion style!
The room was absolutely stunning and generously sized with high ceilings and large windows looking out to the shopping street below. Pale lemon and inky grey-blue hues cover the walls, with polished parquet floors and decorative red and white tiles around the open-plan bathroom area. The style of the room is maximalist and homely with a cork wall adorned with well-chosen artwork, plus vibrant local craft pieces, books and trinkets dotted around.
There is a comfy seating area with a large Smart TV, free wifi and best of all, a free minibar stocked with fritz-kola, mineral water, local craft beer and sweet and savoury snacks. There’s also a free FREITAG bag to use during your stay, which can also be bought on departure.
The king-size bed was extremely plush and comfortable with signature 25hours embroidered pillows and a furry owl friend for company.
The bathroom sink area may be open-plan but there’s plenty of privacy with a separate toilet and walk-in shower room with full-size STOP THE WATER eco-conscious bathroom products, fluffy towels and a powerful hairdryer.
NENI Kobenhavn
Those familiar with 25hours Hotels will know the joys of dining at NENI, Haya Molcho’s rapidly-growing Balagan-style restaurant brand. At NENI Kobenhavn, you can feast on sharing dishes with Mediterranean, Persian and Austrian influences, including home-made hummus, chargrilled aubergine, popcorn falafel, sabich, chicken shawarma, grilled pulpo and stone oven whole cooked fish.
It’s a spacious, colourful restaurant and is open for lunch and dinner everyday – perfect after a long day of travelling. For a stylish nightcap, there’s also the Boilerman Bar, a dimly-lit neighbourhood speakeasy in the basement.
Cafe Duse
After a day of exploring Copenhagen, there’s nothing better than warming up at Cafe Duse, the hotel’s cosy ground floor cafe from Italian pastry chef Melissa Forti. Named after the Italian actress Eleanora Giulia Amalia Duse, the cafe is the epitome of Italian elegance and has become a popular local spot for a teatime treat or aperitivo.
The counter is filled with Forti’s authentic Italian cakes such as torta di mele e Calvados, tiramisu and baba, as well as red velvet layer cake, cookies and brownies.
We sat next to the Christmas tree and watched the world go by over rich, velvety cioccolata calda and a selection of five delightful mignons. It was just magical!
Breakfast at NENI
In the morning, we headed down to NENI for a delicious breakfast and were sat at a cosy corner booth. The generous buffet is laden with creamy scrambled eggs, crispy bacon and sausages, cured meats and Danish cheeses, freshly-baked bread, mini pastries and scrumptious lemon cake, yoghurt with dried fruits and seeds and a colourful array of raw veggies and olives with cream cheese, hummus and labneh.
There’s also a self-service drinks bar with freshly-squeezed orange or apple juice, a wide selection of artisan loose-leaf teas (my favourite 25hours signature) and strong filter coffee. You can also order a barista-made cappuccino or latte and indulge in some bubbles.
Copenhagen is best explored by bicycle, so it’s worth making use of the hotel’s partnership with Berlin-based Schindelhauer and renting a bike for the day. Getting around is made even easier with a tour map of the city’s hotspots, curated specially for 25hours.
If you have any energy left, there’s also a wellbeing area, including a fitness studio with technogym equipment, yoga mats and an outdoor sauna. In the summer, this space is set up for sunbathing with loungers and is conveniently on the same floor as the lovely secret garden.
25hours Hotel Indre By is an absolute gem, expertly weaving local charm with whimsical design and a sense of uncomplicated luxury. The warm, friendly staff go the extra mile to make guests feel at home and with so many facilities, you’ll want to spend as much time there as possible. It’s hard to pick a favourite 25hours hotel, but the Copenhagen house truly blew me away and I will definitely make it my go-to address when visiting Copenhagen.
Tapas is always a good idea, especially when it’s as good as this! BiBo Dani García opened last summer at the new Mondrian Shoreditch (now Virgin Hotels London Shoreditch) on Curtain Road and it’s already become known for its authentic Spanish dishes and cool atmosphere.
BiBo is a vibrant, casual-luxe concept from three Michelin-starred Andalusian chef Dani García, with outposts in Madrid, Ibiza, Marbella, Tarifa and Doha. It pays homage to time-honoured Andalusian recipes and cooking techniques with a few touches of aromatic Japanese flavours.
Walking down the stairs of the bright, contemporary hotel, you immediately feel the warmth of BiBo with its gorgeous terracotta walls, dimmed lighting and breezy Med vibes. The Spanish influences run through the stylish interiors with sculptures of shoals of fish, rustic decorative wall plates and plush brown leather banquettes.
The spacious open-plan restaurant features an open kitchen where you can watch the chefs at work, as well as a central island bar and high tables for a quick bite. There’s also a leafy, deep red-hued courtyard and private dining room, where you can imagine having the most fabulous flamenco party or romantic wedding reception.
BiBo can get lively on the weekend with DJ sets and flowing sangria (it is Shoreditch, after all), but our Monday lunchtime visit was chilled out and thoroughly relaxing. I was particularly drawn to the express lunch set menu, as every dish was something I definitely would have chosen – when does that ever happen?
We were seated at a comfy booth and ordered drinks while waiting for the plates to arrive without any effort or decisions required. It was then that I noticed the attention to details like embroidered linen napkins, ice cold frosty glasses, stunning tableware and a buzzing soundtrack at just the right level. BiBo is already an established brand and its confidence shows.
Everything is made to share and our table quickly filled up with five fantastic dishes. Croquetas de jamón ibérico were gooey, dense and generously filled with the finest coating of crispy breadcrumbs, topped with a slice of top quality Jabugo jamón ibérico (from the Huelva region of Andalusia).
Gambas fritas with spicy mayo were plump and juicy, served piping hot with fresh coriander in the lightest, crunchy filo pastry, almost like delicate wontons.
Patatas bravas are a staple of any good tapas lunch, but their success depends on the quality and abundance of the sauce and the crispiness of the potatoes. Dani García’s were the most interesting I’ve tried, as they were fried with an extra-crunchy coating, almost like breadcrumbs, and topped with a luscious, piquant tomato sauce, velvety aioli and finely chopped chives.
Oxtail brioche with salsa bull and pulled oxtail stew was an absolute treat. The steamed brioche buns were ever so fluffy and moreish, packed with rich, tender slow-cooked meat and a generous dollop of smooth, glossy salsa bull emulsion.
It’s hard to believe that our star dish would be a big plate of greens, but there was something truly magical about the Broccolini and kale salad with black sesame mayo and peanuts. It was just so tangy, refreshing and umami-rich with a smokiness from the charred broccolini, crunchy textures from the nuts and a slight chilli kick.
Lunch ended on a high with the most decadent Caramelised rice pudding for dessert. The sauce was so luxurious and creamy, scented with vanilla and orange blossom, and the bomba rice had a refined, pearl-like texture. It was finished with a golden brûlée crust that cracked rather satisfyingly.
BiBo has to be one of the best new hotel restaurants in London and the express lunch menu is certainly generous and well-composed. If you’re already a fan of the city’s well-established tapas bars like Barrafina, Brindisa and José Pizarro, you won’t be disappointed here. I’m already really tempted to return for the lobster paella, more tapas and a slice of Basque cheesecake.
The BiBo Shoreditch express lunch menu is priced at £25 per person and is available between 12pm and 2.30pm everyday. For more information and booking, visit:www.grupodanigarcia.com
There’s nowhere quite like Mallorca and I can’t help being drawn back to the island year after year. It might be something to do with Palma’s incredible food scene where there’s always a cool new restaurant by a renowned chef or a cosy coffee shop with the best pastries in town. That’s before we even talk about the new wave of Neapolitan pizzerias, Scandinavian bakeries and healthy vegan spots.
Here are some of my top recent discoveries to add to your Palma dining list…
Xalest at Concepció by Nobis
Concepció by Nobis opened just last year in a 16th century former soap factory in the heart of Palma’s Old Town. It’s the first boutique design hotel outside of Scandinavia for the renowned hospitality group, juxtaposing a minimalist Nordic aesthetic with Mallorcan architecture. Having already stayed at Nobis hotels Miss Clara and Hotel J in Stockholm, I couldn’t wait to visit for dinner and also have a good look around.
Ground floor restaurant Xalest, headed up by award-winning chef Xema Álvarez, offers creative tapas, pintxos and sharable signature dishes. It’s cosier than you might expect from a hotel restaurant with a sophisticated yet relaxed ambiance – perfect for a chilled out lunch or dinner.
We ordered the most indulgent oxtail sandwich, traditional tortilla, spicy patatas bravas with fresh herbs and luxurious croquettes with Iberian ham and red prawn. We were also wowed by the rich, slow-cooked veal cheeks with truffled mashed potato and crispy leek – so decadent and satisfying.
The menu is surprisingly varied and many of the dishes also come in half-size portions, so you can try a bit of everything. Also, don’t hesitate to explore the open-plan lounge and adjoining wine bar, as well as the stunning outdoor pool, where you can dine in the evenings.
Naan Street Food
There’s always a new restaurant opening in Santa Catalina, but Naan Street Food remains one of my all-time favourites. It’s a cosy spot with a cute surf shack vibe, offering tasty street food bites from around the world. They like to put their own spin on typical dishes, but everything is always done well with a home-made feel.
It’s essential to start with the fluffy, shareable naan topped with crushed almonds and fresh coriander, cooling yoghurt sauce and moreish corn hummus. We also loved the sticky, umami-rich crispy chicken yakitori with kimchee and truffle mayo.
I can never resist ordering the indulgent lobster roll with sauteed half lobster on brioche, avocado, kimchee, tahini and crunchy sweet potato fries.
The crispy seabass sandwich with pickles and fries was another hit, although I’d be tempted to try the fish tacos or the signature butter chicken next time.
Santa Chiara Pizzeria
Palma’s pizza game keeps getting stronger with the recently-opened Santa Chiara Pizzeria. Located in the northern Bon Aires quarter, just around the corner from the brilliant Pizzeria 500 Grados, this contemporary Neapolitan pizzeria is the real deal and already a local favourite. It also stands out from the rest with slick white metro tiles, rustic wooden tables and splashes of neon, plus a stylish outdoor terrace.
Santa Chiara offers a mix of classic and more creative pizzas, as well as a few pasta dishes, all made with authentic Italian ingredients.
We visited for lunch and ordered a simple Santa Marinara pizza with San Marzano tomato, garlic, oregano and olive oil and the signature Santa Chiara with San Marzano tomato, burrata stracciatella, walnut and basil pesto. They were both absolutely heavenly with bubbly, blistered dough, juicy tomato sauce and creamy stracciatella.
Prices are very reasonable, starting at just 7.50 Euros, and it’s also open every day for lunch and dinner, so it’s a good one to add to your list.
Fika Farina
Fika Farina is officially the first Swedish sourdough bakery in Palma, founded by Mattias Mårtensson and Jimmy Groth. This little gem on Calle Sindicato fires up traditional Scandi treats all day long and is open for your pastry fixes from morning to night, every single day.
Fika Farina takes authenticity to the next level, sourcing its butter and flour from small Swedish producers, including Lilla Harrie Valskvarn (Sweden’s oldest flour mill).
The counter is filled with glorious kanelbullar, cream-filled semla, mazarin, montaña de coco, dark rye bread and gourmet sandwiches. We visited for breakfast and loved the sticky, aromatic cinnamon and cardamom buns – it’s hard to pick a favourite!
Rosevelvet Bakery
Rosevelvet Bakery is a cosy all-day bakery and cafe, tucked away on Carrer de la Missió. Owner Rosa was inspired by the brunch scene on a trip to New York and became one of the first to bring pastrami sandwiches, American cookies and frosted layer cakes to the island.
It’s the perfect spot to refuel over a hearty breakfast burrito, kimchee grilled cheese, Turkish eggs or avo toast. There’s also a counter filled with tempting cheesecake, red velvet layer cake, banoffee and banana bread – impossible to resist!
We visited for breakfast and enjoyed a flaky, iced cinnamon bun and a buttery Swedish morning roll covered in fine spiced sugar with an excellent flat white coffee and loose-leaf English breakfast tea. I can’t wait to return and check out their new Santa Catalina bakery and cafe.
Arabay Coffee
Arabay Coffee may look like your typical third-wave coffee shop, but it has been roasting coffee since 1952 and now has stores across Mallorca, Menorca, Ibiza and Madrid. At its impressive, three-floor flagship store in Palma’s Placa Major, you can relax over an expertly-made coffee, shop for professional barista equipment and take a masterclass in espresso or latte art at its training academy.
Arabay only uses 100% Arabica beans and its coffee is organic, environmentally-friendly and Fairtrade. You can find all sorts of speciality coffee from chemex to cold brew, as well as tempted iced summer drinks.
Go for a potent, rich-roasted iced latte, or if you’re in the mood for some barista theatre, try the iced chai latte which is finished with blow-torched cinnamon.
Have you been to any of these restaurants and cafes in Palma? Where are your favourite places to eat out on the island?
One Hundred Shoreditch opened its doors earlier this year, replacing the landmark Ace Hotel. Luckily, the game-changing Lore Group was quick to snap it up and within a speedy five months, a second London hotel joined its portfolio, which includes Sea Containers London, Pulitzer Amsterdam and Riggs Washington DC.
The Shoreditch High Street hotel certainly feels more grown-up than its predecessor with an elevated look and a brand new concept for its six restaurants and bars. I’ve stayed in this property a few times over the years (anyone remember when it was the Saint Gregory?), so I was excited to see how it had changed.
Arrival
We visited during the first heatwave of the summer and were blasted with delightfully glacial air-conditioning on arrival (well, it was 35 degrees, after all). The friendly, efficient staff made check-in a breeze and kindly gave us a welcome postcard offering three complimentary food and drink options for each guest. We could choose from a glass of wine in the restaurant, coffee and cake at the coffee shop or a pizza in the lobby.
Since it was already midday, we took the time to explore the open-plan lobby and enjoy some cooling drinks with two stone-baked pizzas served straight to our sofa – what could be better than that? By the time we had finished lunch, our room was ready and we took the rather atmospheric blood red lifts up to the sixth floor.
The Studio
Our Studio on the sixth floor was huge and designed in soft shades with a luxurious wool carpet, large paper pendant light and an exposed concrete ceiling. This natural palette was punctuated by a floor-to-ceiling woven tapestry and bespoke artwork in the most striking blue shades by Jacu Strauss, creative director of Lore Group.
I also loved the plush white linen sofa spanning the entire width of the room and the decorative vases filled with eucalyptus and dried flowers.
Room features include a dining table, large TV, tea and coffee facilites, free wifi and plenty of plugs and USB ports. There’s also a luxury minibar stocked with east London treats and stylish glassware, including carafes that you can fill with unlimited still and sparkling water from the station next to the lift on each floor. We really appreciated being able to grab our own filtered water, especially in the scorching heat – hopefully more London hotels will follow this green initiative.
The king-size bed was absolutely heavenly with a white linen headboard, top quality cotton sheets and lots of plump pillows.
The Bathroom
The white tiled bathroom was simple and modern with a large bath and shower, wooden stool, fluffy towels, bathrobes and a full set of products by New York-based perfumers D.S & DURGA in the signature Debaser scent.
They are my holy grail of luxury hotel toiletries (just beating Byredo at Miss Clara Stockholm), as I have a few of their candles at home and the body range is actually quite hard to find in the UK. It was a real treat to try out these products and they were even more fabulous than I’d imagined.
Dinner at Goddard & Gibbs
That evening, we enjoyed dinner downstairs at Goddard & Gibbs, the hotel’s buzzing seafood restaurant inspired by fishing villages and coastal towns around the country. The wood-panelled walls from its days as Hoi Polloi remain and the space has been given an upgrade with a new adjoining wine bar, terrazzo tables and bold artwork in maritime yellow. Not much has really changed though, as it’s still an east London fashion spot, having hosted a number of parties and events already this year.
Head chef Tom Moore’s varied menu features dishes such as Maldon oysters, Soused red mullet, Hake Kyiv, Fish and Chips and a signature Angus beef burger. While the fish options were tempting, we were swayed by the steak on the very well-priced set menu (two courses £23/three courses £27).
Beef onglet (cooked medium rare) was so tender and juicy, served with punchy salsa verde and a silver cone of hot, crispy French fries. We also loved the freshly-baked Sourdough milk buns with cultured butter – perfect for mopping up the sauce.
G&G’s dessert game is strong, so be sure to leave plenty of room. The Insta-worthy Fried doughnut with malt ice cream, miso caramel and peanut dust was truly decadent with rich umami flavour from the miso. Surprisingly though, my favourite was the velvety Honey and sesame tart with zesty grapefruit and luscious salted milk ice sorbet.
The Rooftop Terrace
After dinner, we checked out the dreamy, Palm Springs-inspired rooftop bar, decorated with touches of pink marble, rose gold lamps, succulents and hanging plants. It was absolutely packed with Londoners making the most of the balmy weather and panoramic views of the city over plates of tacos, fried chicken and crab burgers, washed down with margaritas.
For a more intimate nightcap, there’s also the downstairs Seed Library by London cocktail guru Mr Lyan. The hotel has a lot of eating and drinking spaces to try, so you could easily stay local for a relaxing weekend stay.
Breakfast
In the morning, we headed back down to Goddard & Gibbs for a hearty breakfast. We’d expected to order dishes like pancakes and Eggs Royale from the menu, but were told the breakfast offering had recently changed to a self-service buffet on weekends.
It all worked out fine though, as we made up our own superb Full English breakfasts with extra sausages and enjoyed the array of home-made pastries, yoghurt, muesli and cured meats and cheeses, washed down with excellent coffee, a pot of strong Good and Proper Tea and orange juice freshly-squeezed to order.
Everything was exceptionally high quality and tasty, but there could have been a few more items available like waffles, muffins or chia pudding to make it more interesting.
Location
One Hundred Shoreditch has an unbeatable location for exploring East London, within walking distance of Brick Lane, Spitalfields and Columbia Road Flower Market. Just around the corner is design-led Redchurch Street with hotspots such as Earl of East, Reformation, A.P.C, BAO Noodle Shop, Jolene bakery and Allpress Coffee. It’s also worth walking down to Liverpool Street for quick links to the city centre via the Elizabeth Line and of course gourmet Italian treats at EATALY London
One Hundred Shoreditch is a stunning hotel with equal measures of style and comfort, but it’s the welcoming, experienced staff that take it to the next level. It marks a new chapter for Shoreditch and is set to be the place to be this summer – I can’t wait to go back!
When the sun is shining, there’s nothing better than going for a leisurely weekend brunch and finding a new favourite. Kiln in Newcastle has been high on my list for a while, so I was excited to visit and try the new brunch menu.
Kiln is a fabulous all-day cafe, bar and restaurant set in a former car garage in the heart of Ouseburn. This picturesque valley by the Quayside was named one of the “coolest neighbourhoods in the world right now” by TimeOut. It’s characterised by its post-industrial, repurposed buildings containing artisan bakeries, craft breweries, independent shops and art galleries. The area is lively and creative but still feels peaceful by the waterside.
Kiln has a cool yet welcoming feel with cosy booths, Scandi-style wooden tables and ink blue walls adorned with colourful risograph art prints. It’s also dog-friendly and has a lovely outdoor terrace for summer dining.
What really makes Kiln stand out from the rest is the pottery studio, where you can watch South Korean potter Jun Rhee at work. Jun’s exquisite ceramics are in high demand locally and he has also created tableware for Michelin-starred chefs and TV shows such as BBC Master Chef and BBC Great British Menu. You can enjoy these fantastic plates, bowls and cups during your meal and buy some new ones to take home.
At Kiln, everything from the bread to the sauces is prepared in-house daily using the finest local ingredients. The brunch and dinner menus have Mediterranean and Middle Eastern influences and there’s plenty of choice for vegetarians and vegans.
We started with some cooling drinks – a zesty and refreshing Homemade lemonade and an aromatic Hibiscus and pomegranate spritz with torn fresh mint and lots of ice.
Everything on the brunch menu sounded tempting, but I couldn’t resist trying the Flat iron steak with fried egg, salsa verde and sourdough. The perfectly seared steak (from local hero Charlotte’s Butchery) was exceptionally tender, well-seasoned and generously sized. It was well complemented by the runny fried egg and vibrant, punchy salsa verde. I also liked how the sourdough had been lightly toasted and rubbed with sea salt and olive oil – a small detail that makes all the difference.
Just as satisfying was the Sea bass fillet open sandwich with cherry tomatoes and garlic aioli. The fish looked magnificent and was ever so fresh with a bold, smokey flavour and crispy skin. Oozing roasted tomatoes brightened the flavours and there was a touch of richness from the oily garlic aioli. The fired Egyptian sourdough pita was also deliciously fluffy and lightly charred on the edges.
We saw some beautifully-presented dishes coming out of the kitchen and will definitely return to try the Shakshuka with Greek feta and focaccia, Scrambled eggs with asparagus, Kale with chilli oil and fried eggs and Home-made Kiln granola.
Of course, we couldn’t resist ending with something sweet, so we chose a dessert from the menu and an enormous slice of cake from the counter. Chocolate mousse had a velvety, whipped texture and I was amazed to find it was both vegan and gluten free. It was served with some tangy orange segments and crushed toasted hazelnuts.
We were somewhat defeated by the mountainous vegan Chocolate cake, which had the most indulgent buttercream frosting and a light texture. The desserts were washed down with a strong, rich-roasted Flat white using beans from St. Martin’s Coffee Roasters and a fragrant Jasmine loose-leaf tea.
Kiln is a real local gem with incredible food, a soulful vibe, reasonable prices and of course, fantastic pottery. The team behind Kiln is soon to open Patina, a sister restaurant in Edinburgh, and I can’t wait to see what exciting things they’ve come up with.
On my recent trip to Edinburgh with my mum, I wanted to find somewhere fabulous for us to have a relaxed, memorable lunch. I remembered spotting Noto last year and discovered it had been awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand and was Marina O’Loughlin-approved, so we just had to try it.
Noto is a stunning restaurant in Edinburgh’s New Town, nestled among some of the city’s foodie hotspots on cobbled Thistle Street. It’s the more casual offering from acclaimed Scottish chef Stuart Ralston – chef-owner of Aizle, a six-course tasting menu restaurant at the stylish Kimpton Charlotte Square.
Noto takes inspiration from Stuart’s time spent living and working in New York and is named after his friend, the late food photographer Ben Noto. An enigmatic line drawing of Noto welcomes you inside and sets the mood for a convivial, enjoyable meal.
Inside, the restaurant feels both urban and rustic, decorated in natural, earthy tones with simple walnut seating, twisted twig sculptures, dried wild flowers, exposed bulbs and tall windows letting the daylight stream in. It’s been named one of Scotland’s most beautiful restaurants by Condé Nast Traveller and it’s easy to see why.
Noto offers a tempting menu of small plates and larger sharing dishes with Mediterranean and Asian influences, using the finest local Scottish produce. While some neo-bistros can feel restrictive, there is a plenty of choice here and the freedom to order exactly what you fancy. It’s also worth noting that the full menu is served in both the dining room and the adjoining bar.
Shortly after ordering, our drinks arrived with frosty glasses and we started grazing on some freshly-baked Company sourdough, served with an enormous mound of velvety local butter topped with delicate wisps of roasted chicken skin.
This was soon followed by the most decadent Anster croquette and truffle. These little flavour bombs were ever so crunchy and potent with a generous covering of finely-shaved Anster, a tangy artisan cow’s milk cheese made in Fife.
Because one cheese dish just isn’t enough, we also ordered Burrata, romesco, chilli, toasted sourdough. The creamy, top quality burrata was perfectly complemented by the rich, nutty and slightly piquant romesco and the sourdough tasted even better when toasted and rubbed in olive oil and sea salt.
We were keen to explore the menu’s Japanese influences and couldn’t resist the Chicken yakitori, umeboshi, egg yolk. The skewers of marinated chicken thigh were succulent and nicely charred, topped with spring onion, sesame seeds and sticky Japanese plum. The egg yolk cured in soy sauce made them even more satisfying.
The most complex dish we tried was Aubergine tonkatsu, kimchi and pickled ginger. The aubergine managed to retain its flavour through the crunchy panko coating and was elevated by the tangy, fragrant flavours of chunky kimchi, refreshing pickled ginger, sesame and Japanese mayo with a dusting of togarashi.
It’s essential to leave room for dessert, as you won’t want to miss the heavenly Chocolate, miso, hazelnut. Smooth Michel Cluizel dark chocolate ganache sat atop a malty, gooey miso caramel and toasted whole hazelnuts, finished with a scorched whirl of light-as-air Italian meringue. It was quite spectacular and a real treat for chocolate lovers.
Equally delicious but much lighter was the delicate, spring-like Wye valley rhubarb, diplomat and pink peppercorn. The buttery shortbread pastry case was filled with an airy diplomat cream studded with vanilla seeds, a refreshing rhubarb sorbet and pretty meringue candy sticks.
Lunch at Noto was an absolute delight and everything from the food to the style of the restaurant felt soulful, modern and well-considered. If you’re visiting Edinburgh for the Fringe Festival or a weekend break (be sure to stay at nearby Eden Locke), Noto should be at the top of your list.
Music lovers will feel thoroughly at home at Sir Adam Hotel, a contemporary design hotel in creative Amsterdam-Noord. Set across eight floors of the impressive A’DAM Tower with fabulous views over the IJ River, this spectacular hotel is steeped in rock ‘n’ roll splendour.
Location
A’DAM Tower opened as a hub for music and entertainment in 2016, with industry neighbours such as Gibson, Sony, Semifest and A’DAM Music School. It may be on the other side of all the action, however Centraal Station is just five minutes away via the free ferry over the water and the city centre is around 20-minutes walk.
Design
Designed by New York studio Icrave, Sir Adam maintains the industrial style of the A’DAM Tower with exposed concrete walls, ceilings and columns. This raw aesthetic is layered with music-inspired artwork, slouchy leather sofas, polished wood floors and floor to ceiling windows framing stunning river views.
Arrival
Arriving at Sir Adam, you can immediately feel its fun, relaxed vibe at The Hub, the hotel’s open-plan lobby and lounge. It’s a bright space with floor-to-ceiling windows where you can kick back with a cocktail or beer on the slouchy sofas and play on the retro arcade games, ping pong and table football.
It’s also home to The Butcher Social Club, where you can grab one of Amsterdam’s tastiest burgers until after mightnight and refuel with a full breakfast the next morning seven days a week.
The Room
Check-in was super friendly and we shimmied our way up the room in the amazing disco lift (and later took the karaoke lift back down). We were kindly upgraded to a spacious Sir Deluxe City View with views over the IJ – perfect for those glorious summer sunsets.
The room’s stark concrete structure is given warmth with plush leather and fur textiles, padded window seats, mood lighting and the kind of Persian carpets you find in recording studios.
A Gibson guitar and photo prints of rock royalty adorn the walls and there’s a Crosley Cruiser record player with a selection of classic vinyl. We had a great time working through the records we chose from the lobby’s music library and DJing to the crowds below.
There’s also a SmartTV, open wardrobe, vintage-style telephone, minibar, complimentary bottled water and an Illy espresso machine and tea set.
The king-size bed, covered in 300-thread-count cotton linen, was unbelievably comfortable and difficult to leave. Happily, the hotel gave us an extra-late check-out on the last day, so we could enjoy a reviving shower and an afternoon nap before heading to the airport.
The Bathroom
The semi open-plan bathroom features a separate walk-in rain shower and toilet, a basin in the room with full-size Dead Clean products and plenty of thick, fluffy towels.
The Butcher Social Club
Dinner on the first evening was a no-brainer – we simply headed downstair to The Butcher Social Club for a gourmet burger. We both ordered The Butcher Burger with Dutch Edam cheese, signature sauce and all the fixings, plus crunchy fries, a side of onion rings and the most delicious baba ganoush dip.
It’s a real crowd-pleaser with a wide selection of inventive burgers, boozy milkshakes and vegan options. Breakfast is flexible too with the choice of a full buffet or a la carte morning dishes like Eggs Benedict, pancakes, waffles, granola, pastries and smoothies. We kept it light with tea and croissants, as we wanted to check out some Amsterdam brunch spots.
Location
We spent most of our time out exploring Amsterdam in the sun, however the hotel also features a gym and recording studio and the team can arrange curated cultural experiences with local guides.
A’DAM Tower is a destination in itself with a lookout observation deck on the 20th floor and rooftop swings over the water below, the revolving Madam restaurant with 360 degree views over the city and the adjacent EYE Film Museum.
Sir Adam is an absolute gem with plenty of home comforts, dynamic and helpful staff and a convenient location. It’s also great value for money, if you book at the right time and take advantage of the regular special offers. I definitely want to check out more Sir Hotels in Berlin, Hamburg, Ibiza and Barcelona.
All photos by Chérie City
For more Amsterdam travel ideas, read my reviews of:
When I last visited Copenhagen five years ago, there were very few luxury hotels, but now the Danish capital is full of interesting places to stay.
On my recent trip, I was excited to stay for one night at Villa Copenhagen, a stylish eco-friendly five star hotel. Opening to much anticipation in 2020, Villa is well-located for exploring the city, close to the famous Tivoli Gardens and Central Station and within walking distance of the vibrant Meatpacking District.
The hotel is housed in a listed Neo-Baroque building that was once the Central Post & Telegraph HQ and boasts an impressive 390 rooms and suites. The hotel’s size is key to understanding what Villa is about – it’s a grand railway hotel with designer touches and certainly not a boutique hotel.
The Lobby
Walking through the arched entrance, the first impression of the hotel is a vast, modern atrium with plenty of daylight from the striking glass roof. The open-plan public area comprises the reception, self-service check-in desks and the Courtyard Bar (designed by Shamballa Jewels), where you can relax and enjoy light meals, coffee and drinks. DJs also play there on Friday and Saturday evenings.
Another cool feature is Passagen, the hotel’s design and lifestyle store offering a curated selection of homewares by raawii, Maria Black jewellery and fragrances for the body and home by Skandinavisk.
Check-In
We arrived around midday, so it was a little busy and it took some time to check in. We were kindly upgraded to a Superior Plus King Room and happily, it was ready on arrival.
The Room
Our Superior Plus King Room on the first floor was an absolute dream with contemporary interiors by London’s Universal Design Studio and carefully-chosen pieces by Danish designers. It felt spacious and airy with high ceilings and tall windows that you can fling wide open.
The room is designed in natural, cool shades and soft textures with highlights of marble, brass, oak and opal glass. I was particularly taken with the sleek marble-topped console table and the heavenly king-size bed with a large linen bedhead and charcoal drawing by Berlin-based Norwegian artist Bente Stokke.
Room features include a large LCD TV, speaker, wifi, large fitted wardrobe, table and chairs, an upholstered wool bench and a coffee machine with Illy coffee pods and a separate kettle. There’s also a premium minibar and elegant glass tumblers on a brass tray for a decadent night cap.
Sadly, the Chromecast wasn’t working and the front desk wasn’t able to offer a solution, so we were left with basic access to seven or eight Danish channels. Nigella’s Christmas Special with subtitles kept us amused while we got ready for dinner, but it appears to be a regular problem for guests here and is surprising for a five star hotel of this calibre.
The Bathroom
The bathroom is stylish and calm with hand-crafted tiles, grey marble sink and black chrome fittings. There is a powerful walk-in rain forest shower, wooden stool, large fluffy towels, bathrobes and full-size natural products by Skandinavisk.
Unfortunately there was a water drainage issue and my relaxing shower led to the bathroom filling with water alarmingly quickly.
The Swimming Pool
The jewel in the crown of the hotel is the spectacular, eco-friendly 25m outdoor swimming pool, naturally heated with surplus energy from the hotel’s cooling systems. The freezing Copenhagen weather didn’t entice me to peel off the layers and go for a dip, but in the warmer months, this is definitely the place to be.
The only drawback is that you need to pre-book your free 30-minute swim and sauna slot and any extra time is charged. It makes sense, given the large number of guests and recent restrictions, but swimming against the clock could feel a bit rushed.
Dinner in the Meatpacking District
That evening, we walked over to the Meatpacking District for a five-course dinner at Fleisch. It’s a fantastic restaurant with a cosy atmosphere and stunning food – well-worth visiting.
If you don’t want to venture too far out (especially in the cold), book a table at KONTRAST, Villa’s modern brasserie with a short menu of fresh, creative dishes using organic, seasonal ingredients. There’s also the seductive, dimly-lit T37 cocktail bar for inventive mixed drinks over a game of chess.
Breakfast
After a blissful night’s sleep, we headed down for breakfast to the lower ground dining room, housed in the former sorting room of the Post & Telegraph Office. It’s one of the biggest breakfast rooms I’ve ever seen, with two tea and coffee stations on both sides and a central open kitchen.
We were encouraged to pre-book a table and this did seem to help with the flow of guests and hygiene control during Covid restrictions, as it all ran smoothly with plenty of space between tables.
The breakfast buffet is plentiful with scrambled eggs, crispy bacon, sausages, pancakes, an elaborate display of cured meats, smoked salmon and Danish cheeses, chocolate chia seed pudding, granola and yoghurt. There’s also a chef on hand to make omelettes and fried eggs cooked to order.
The real highlight, however, is the in-house RUG Bakery. You can taste a selection of fabulous pastries and cream-filled buns that easily compete with Copenhagen’s top bakeries. There seems to be a global trend of opening bakeries in luxury hotels, but rarely are these baked treats included with breakfast.
Villa Copenhagen is a stunning hotel with a great concept and I would definitely visit again for the beautiful design and RUG Bakery breakfast. There were a few issues that would be frustrating during a longer stay, but if you can add a reasonably priced Sunday night at Villa to your trip (like we did), I would thoroughly recommend it.
Throughout lockdown, I longed for the familiar pleasures of walking the streets of Paris. Stopping at a boulangerie for freshly-baked pastries, an indulgent bistro dinner of steak frites and spending hours exploring a museum.
At the end of last year (pre-Omicron travel madness), my wish was granted and I spent a magical few days in the French capital with my mum. The streets were noticably quieter than usual, apart from the crowded Champs-Élysées, but it still felt like the same, charming Paris.
Here are some of the fantastic places we visited on this whirlwind trip…
La Samaritaine
Our first stop was La Samaritaine, the iconic Pont-Neuf department store that reopened last summer after being closed for over 16 years. LVMH has transformed the historic 19th century building from a bazaar selling everything under the sun to a shimmering temple of luxury. It really is spectacular!
All of the top tier designer brands are there, as you would expect, but what makes the store stand out is its modern, playful approach, with the quirky Boutique de Loulou lifestyle shop, the incredible beauty hall filled with cult products and cute patisserie counters by Bogato and Dalloyau.
We met my friend Coralie for a long-overdue coffee at Parisienne, a casual cafe by Petit Plisson with classic French pastries and light salads. It’s a great spot to know about for a quick refuel.
We stayed until the early evening and then walked along the Seine, over to the Left Bank for dinner.
La Laiterie Sainte Clotilde
La Laiterie Sainte Clotilde on Rue de Bellechasse is a gorgeous little bistro by Jean-Baptiste Varenne, housed in a former dairy. It’s a real neighbourhood gem with a mostly Parisian crowd and lovely staff who really look after you well.
To start, we had a creamy, velvety Pumpkin soup and a punchy Roasted cauliflower with harissa – both were full of flavour and well-seasoned.
We couldn’t resist the tender, juicy Steak with peppercorn sauce and sautéed baby potatoes. It was a classic done exceedingly well with very high quality meat, a moreish sauce and more crispy potatoes than you could ever ask for.
Dessert was an indulgent Gateau ‘Chardon’ au chocolat, which had a rich yet light fondant texture inside. I would definitely visit again, as it’s an interesting yet dependable place for a good dinner, however I’d be keen to try the weekday lunch set menu at 30 Euros for 3 courses.
Thierry Mugler: Couturissime
Fashion exhibitons at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs are always spectacular and I’m so pleased we had the opportunity to see the most recent opening, Thierry Mugler: Couturissime. This major exhibition explores the couturier’s stellar career with works dating from 1973 to 2014. It feels especially poignant and vital since his passing in January this year.
The world of Mugler is truly glamorous and exotic, which the curator has expertly captured across both floors. Be prepared to be wowed by rows of mannequins in cutting-edge ready-to-wear, sculptural haute couture and iconic stage costumes worn by the likes of Beyoncé, Lady Gaga, Linda Evangelista and Jerry Hall.
The exhibition has an immersive feel with scene-setting light and soundscapes and a subtle trail of the famous fragrance ANGEL, complete with an enormous, diamond-encrusted bottle to admire.
You can also delve deeper with rare photographs signed by Guy Bourdin, Helmut Newton and Ellen von Unwerth, as well as unpublished archives and mesmerising films of pivotal catwalk shows.
I could have easily spent hours there, but we were also keen to see the Cartier Islamic Arts exhibition just across the hall. It featured the most dazzling fine jewellery with enormous diamonds and gems, ancient sculptures and miniature paintings.
Café de Flore
For a moment of Paris nostalgia, we headed over to the Left Bank for a light lunch at the historic Café de Flore on Boulevard Saint-Germain. After a bit of queuing we were seated at one of the coveted terrace tables – perfect for indulging in the time-honoured sport of people watching.
While the location is undeniably fabulous, the excruciatingly long wait to be served and the unexpectedly bland Soupe a l’oignon gratinée made it my least favourite meal of the trip. Next time I’ll play it safe and stick to the excellent chocolat chaud and tarte tatin.
La Grande Épicerie
The afternoon still ended on a sweet note with a sweep around La Grande Épicerie, the magnificent food hall at Le Bon Marché department store on Rue de Sèvres. We refuelled over an exquisite Tarte framboise and Praline cake and pots of Earl Grey tea from the patisserie.
Paris food halls are an absolute joy and this one is widely regarded as the best in town. Every time I visit, I promise myself to book an apartment for a week and cook with these exquisite ingredients.
Aux Crus de Bourgogne
After some more shopping and strolling around the Left Bank, we headed to the lively Montorgueil quarter for dinner at Aux Crus de Bourgogne on Rue Bachaumont. This historic bistro was revived by new owners Jérôme and Stéphane Dumant in 2019 and is known for its regional French gastronomy cooking and Burgundy wines.
It was once a haunt of writer and cultural minister André Malraux, although today you could imagine Wes Anderson perched at a table, scouting his next filming location.
The return of the great French brasserie (a trend bubbling away in Paris over the last few years) really satisfies the craving for familiarity and rollicking good times, especially in this age of uncertainty. This is definitely something you can find here, feasting on hearty Lyonnaise dishes and having a laugh with the most charming waiters in Paris.
We had the most fantastic Poulet au vin jaune & morilles, which was served in a rustic copper pot with spongey morels to soak up the rich, creamy sauce. Coq au vin was equally indulgent and boozy with the finest farm-style chicken that you can only seem to find in France and ribbons of fresh tagliatelle.
For dessert, we did the unthinkable and ordered Mousse au chocolat & Madeleine twice, just in case it wasn’t so sharable. Little did we know that it would be a monster-sized mousse filling an entire Le Creuset pot with two giant madeleines. However, I don’t regret a thing, as it was so thick and velvety and the madeleines were crispy and golden, straight from the oven – a moment of absolute heaven!
Montmartre
We made the most of a bright and sunny morning and climbed up the millions of stairs to the Sacré-Cœur. It was lovely to explore Montmartre and follow the winding, cobbled paths and spotting pretty landmarks like Le Lapin Agile, Place du Tertre, Le Consulat, Place Dalida and La Maison Rose.
A new discovery was Vignes du Clos, an urban winery on a sunny hillside in Montmartre. Paris’ oldest vineyard was created as a green space by the City of Paris in 1933 to protect the plot of land from being developed.
It’s generally closed to the public, but in October, the vineyard opens the gates for guided tours as part of the city’s Fête des Vendanges (a five-day grape harvest festival).
Hotel Amour
After such arduous hill climbing, we were ready for lunch at Hotel Amour, one of my old favourites in Pigalle. It always has a good vibe and sitting at a table overlooking the garden is just delightful.
We both managed to squeeze in one last Steak frites and it was a winner (although I would have liked it to come with a sauce).
Galeries Lafayette Gourmet
Our last stop of the trip was the wonderful Galeries Lafayette Gourmet, which has changed a lot since I last visited. The most exciting part for me is the deli, bakery and patisserie section that takes up almost the entire ground floor.
It was a chance to load up on baked goods from Babka Zana, a cute bakery in the 9th arrondissement that has a counter here. We tried the sticky, delicious Babka rolls in rich Chocolate hazelnut and fragrant Pistachio and orange blossom flavours.
It was also a good call to bring home a large Babka cake, packaged majestically in a pastel pink and gold box, to keep the Paris memories going.
Hotel Keppler
Our home for the weekend was the elegant Hotel Keppler, designed by Pierre-Yves Rochon, located in a Haussmanian building on a quiet street just off the Champs-Élysées.
The hotel features 48 guest rooms and suites (some with balconies and Eiffel Tower views), plus two cosy library lounges and a fitness room and sauna.
Our Executive Room was bright and comfortable with timeless black, white and vibrant yellow accents. The large marble bathroom had a TV in the mirror, a powerful shower and bathtub, fluffy bathrobes and slippers and a full set of Hermès Eau D’Orange Verte bathroom products.
Breakfast was served downstairs overlooking the leafy private courtyard and everything was excellent. The buffet was petite but full of high quality items like scrambled eggs and crispy bacon, pancakes and crepes, cured meats and salmon, French cheese, luxury yoghurt and fruit juice. You can also order fresh eggs and omelettes cooked to order.
The lovely staff took good care of us, serving freshly-made coffee and tea and a basket of pastries and baguette to our table. It was the highlight of our stay and definitely worth booking.
We didn’t spend much time in the hotel on this trip, as we were out exploring from morning to night, but it was still a very enjoyable stay.
Have you been to Paris recently? Where are your favourite places to visit?
