Copenhagen has become a destination to watch for design hotels and the most anticipated opening has to be the new 25hours Hotel Paper Island Copenhagen. It arrived in July this year on Paper Island, joining its fabulous older sister 25hours Hotel Indre By, just across the water in the city centre.
Paper Island
What makes this hotel truly special is the story behind its unique setting. For 300 years, Christiansholm island was only used for military and industrial purposes, housing shipyards, coal warehouses and paper factories. Only in the past few years has it become accessible to all, following extensive development. The newly-named Paper Island (Papirøen) has become a popular hotspot by the waterside with urban housing, cultural institutions, shops, restaurants and Broens Street Food where you can find the famous Gasolene Grill.
Location
There’s no need to worry about being marooned on a remote island, as the hotel is very well-connected with a pedestrian and cycling bridge to colourful Nyhavn and Christianshavn metro is just a 15-minute walk away. In fact, it offers the best of both worlds – a peaceful, open setting by the water and close proximity to the city’s main attractions.
Christianshavn’s historic cobbled streets and picturesque canals are just moments away, as well as Freetown Christiania and idyllic Holmen. The hotel is also perfectly positioned for a night at the Royal Danish Opera House.
Design and architecture
25hours Hotel Paper Island boldy squares up to ‘old Copenhagen’ across the harbour with fearlessly modern yet whimsical architecture designed by COBE Architects. The hotel evokes the nostalgia of a Scandinavian summer house with seaside and maritime motifs, created by Gothenburg-based design team Stylt Trampoli.
The hotel
Glowing neon signs directed us towards the hotel in the dark and we immediately felt its warm, laid-back atmosphere. The open-plan lobby is adorned with sailboats and wooden oars and has a small shop selling cute souvenirs, snacks and even pick and mix sweets.
The reception reminded me of a boat rental shop at a childhood summer camp – very wholesome and sporty. On arrival, we were warmly welcomed by Laura at the front desk and given plenty of information about the hotel and its facilities.
The cosy lounge feels homely and relaxing with a beautifully-decorated Christmas tree and a roaring fireplace. It leads on to the wonderfully-named Lobster Lounge, a cool space for meetings and events.
Dining
The hotel features three different spaces for refuelling at any time of the day. Tiger Lily takes a modern approach to south Asian cuisine and was created by the team behind Hamburg’s popular Vietnamese canteen O-Ren Ishii. Enjoy an array of sharing plates including fresh salads, spicy tom yum soup, Japanese ramen, aromatic Thai curries and smoky grilled meats.
Nomad Day Bar is a chilled out, all-day cafe with Social Brew coffee and freshly-baked pastries where you can read delightful art books and watch the world go by.
Victory is one of Copenhagen’s coolest cocktail bars and it just happens to be on the top floor of the hotel. What could be better than creative cocktails in a seductive space with enviable views over the city, just moments from your room?
The room
The hotel’s 128 rooms range from a cosy medium to the family-friendly gigantic with a separate living area and Schindelhauer bicycle. They all feature a unique room number sign, designed by local creatives.
Our large room on the seventh floor was an absolute delight with large, slanted windows framing spectacular views of the harbour and the Opera House. Curling up on the window seats with colourful cushions and watching the boats go past was ever so relaxing. It’s definitely worth upgrading to a large room and requesting a high floor for this perk.
The room is styled like a Danish seaside cabin with white wood-panelled walls, highlights of maritime blue and pine wood and beachy artwork above the bed.
Room features include a large Smart TV, music speaker, writing desk, plenty of storage space, air-conditioning, free wifi and a free FREITAG bag to use during your stay, which can also be bought on departure. Only the extra large rooms come with tea and and cofee facilities, however all rooms include a free minibar stocked with fritz-kola, beer, mineral water, local craft beer mixed nuts and a bar of vegan chocolate.
The king-size bed was extremely comfortable, covered in high quality linen with 25hour hotels’ signature cheeky embroidered pillows. A stuffed Danish cod was our jolly bedfellow for the night too.
The bathroom
The room is open-plan, so next to the bed is a large sink with underneath storage space and mirror and a powerful walk-in shower with glossy grey tiles (of course, the toilet is separate). The cotton towels are thick and wide and there are full-size organic aromatherapy bath products in stylish glass bottles by Soeder, a Swiss natural bodycare brand.
Breakfast
After a peaceful night’s sleep, we headed down to Tiger Lily for a leisurely breakfast (and wait out the morning storm). The breakfast buffet was generous and inviting, filled with scrambled eggs (or omelettes cooked to order), bacon and sausages, cured meats and local cheese, yoghurt, freshly-baked breads and flaky pastries.
25hours hotels tend to offer a local speciality at breakfast and here, it’s ebleskiver. These traditional Danish pancakes look like big snowballs, but they’re unbelieveably fluffy and light inside. I couldn’t resist a second round and was pleased to see them at the cafe (and at the Christmas markets in the centre).
There’s a self-service drinks bar with freshly-squeezed juices, artisan loose-leaf teas and filter coffee. You can also order a barista-made coffee and indulge in some bubbles. Breakfast is really good here, so I’d recommend adding it for the full 25hours experience.
Around Paper Island
After checking out, we decided to explore the island and ramble towards Refshaleøen, a former industrial site transformed into a cultural hub. Copenhagen Contemporary is a fantastic art space and we were blown away by the immersive exhibitions from Marta Minujín and James Turrell. Lille Bakery is perfect for a hearty lunch with some of the best sourdough rye bread in the city and there’s also local summer favourite La Banchina, Hart Bageri and Michelin-starred Alchemist.
You can also shop like a Copenhagener at GANNI Postmodern in Christianshavn, taste and buy fermented vinegars and oils for your own kitchen in the greenhouses at noma projects and marvel at Danish design at the magical ferm LIVING boutique just opposite the hotel.
To get around town quicker, rent a Schindelhauer bicycle from the hotel and take advantage of their curated cycling map.
Overall
25hours Hotel Paper Island is perfect for travellers that love a quirky, memorable place to stay. The central location, excellent facilities and friendly service make it an ideal base for a fun city break all year round.
While 25hours Hotel Indre By has an ecclectic, bohemian townhouse vibe, the Paper Island house leans into the nostalgic holiday ambiance and it’s really hard to choose between them.
Are you tempted to stay? Use the code 25h_helloautumn for 15% off the best flexible rate when booking direct. For more information and booking, visit: www.25hours-hotels.com.
Chérie City was a guest of 25hours Hotel Paper Island
The Greek gods have been shining down on Oma, one of London’s best new modern Greek restaurants (and definitely the hit of the summer). I visited for lunch a while ago and it was easy to see why this industrial-chic taverna hits the spot.
Location
Chef & restaurateur David Carter (of Smokestak & Manteca) has taken over two floors on Bedale Street overlooking the iconic Borough Market. Walk in through the casual, moody Agora souvla bar, past the open grill with meats slowly sizzling on the spit, and head upstairs to brighter, sleeker Oma.
The restaurant
At the heart of Oma is the busy yet zen open kitchen with a live-fire grill and a crudo bar with glistening whole fish and seafood (‘oma’ is the Greek word for raw, after all). Around it is bar seating and tables with floor to ceiling street views, which the front of house staff manage with charm and ease. There’s also a covered, heated terrace for watching over the hustle and bustle of Borough Market.
The chefs
David Carter is joined by Ecuadorian chef Jorge Paredes (formerly executive chef at Sabor) and Nick Molyviatis (previously head chef of Kiln). Their global food influences can be traced on the menu, making interesting additions to Oma’s journey through the Greek islands.
The food
The dips and breads are an absolute must and the perfect start to a meal of sharing dishes. Hummus, masabacha and green zhoug was velvety and aromatic with lovely, crunchy chickpeas and a dusting of sumac. Babaghanoush, tahini and jerusalem artichoke crisps had a smoky flavour with a touch of zestiness and the golden artichoke crisps added texture.
The bagel-like açma verde was irresistable – fluffy and glossy with a gorgeous swirl of garlic and herbs. We also enjoyed the wildfarmed laffa – a lightly blistered flatbread made with plenty of olive oil to keep it moist.
I was immediately drawn to the lobster bisque börek and it was just as luxurious as it sounds. The pastry was unbelieveably crisp and oozing with a lavish shellfish sauce, finished with a flurry of grated cheese.
A staple of the Oma menu is their take on a Greek giouvetsi, a tomatoey orzo stew with meat or seafood, cooked slowly in a traditional clay pot. Wild red prawn giouvetsi, deep-fried prawn butter was just on the right side of decadent with rich flavours, tender orzo and six top notch scarlet prawns. It’s a real treat to find wild red prawns on a menu and the moreish orzo stew was a delight.
We passed over the crudo section of the menu, but in hindsight, a zesty gilt head bream ceviche would likely cut through the indulgent flavours with a touch of freshness. Otherwise, we ordered rather well for lunch and left feeling satisfied – for dinner, perhaps add some skewers or salads.
Impressions
Oma is the perfect restaurant for a special occasion with enticing dishes, accomplished cooking and inspiring surroundings. I will definitely be back to try Agora, which offers a few of the same dishes as Oma but with a focus on smaller skewers, wood oven flatbreads and rotisserie meats.
To celebrate my milestone birthday this year, I knew it had to be something truly memorable to mark the occasion. After falling in love with Poland on recent trips to Wroclaw and Krakow, I was keen to see what the capital city Warsaw had to offer. There are plenty of luxury hotels in the city, but the absolute pinnacle of hospitality is Raffles Europejski Warsaw.
Not only is the iconic Europejski a true Polish landmark, but the hotel is significantly more attainable (as a special treat) than some Raffles properties that start at four figures per night. Since we were staying in Warsaw for five nights, we took time out from exploring to relax and fully immerse ourselves in the Raffles experience.
Location
Raffles Europejski Warsaw is located on the prestigious Royal Route, next to the Presidential Palace and the Polish National Opera. It also overlooks the Tomb of the Unknown Solider in Saski Gardens and is a short walk from the picturesque Old Town (a UNESCO World Heritage Site).
The hotel
Hotel Europejski was built by Italian-Polish architect Enrico Marconi and opened to much fanfare in 1857. It quickly became the place to stay and socialise and has famously hosted Marlene Dietrich, The Rolling Stones and the Kennedys. Most of the neo-Renaissance building was decimated during the Second World War and was subsequently rebuilt and turned into a restaurant. Following a major five-year reconstruction, it reopened as Raffles Europejski Warsaw in 2018.
The lobby
Despite the hotel’s grandeur, the entrance is discreet and fuss-free. The marble lobby is awash with vibrant colours and you’re immediately met with decorative touches like a neon sculpture, fresh flowers and ornate chandeliers.
Set designer Boris Kudlicka and Warsaw-based architects WWAA have created joyful interiors that celebrate Polish art and craftsmanship. In fact, the hotel boasts a collection of almost 500 works by 120 contemporary Polish artists.
Dining
Walking through the lobby promenade, you will find the Michelin-listed Europejski Grill and the signature Long Bar, home to the Warsaw Sling (a local spin on the famous Singapore Sling created at Raffles Singapore in 1915).
Also not to be missed is Lourse Warszawa, a bijou patisserie serving exquisite cakes, hand-painted chocolates, ice cream, biscuits and preserves. Raffles reimagined Swiss confectioner Laurent Lourse’s historic literary cafe (Fryderyk Chopin had been a regular), continuing its story as one of the best places for afternoon tea in Warsaw.
Shopping
At the other side of the lobby is the Europejski Boutiques luxury shopping gallery with Poland’s first Hermès store, alongside Brunello Cucinelli, HE Concept Store and Aston Martin.
Check-in
On arrival, our bags were swiftly taken care of and we were warmly greeted by the reception staff. We took a seat at the desk to check in and were offered a choice of two rooms – a Raffles Room on the second floor or a Deluxe Room on the pavillion side of the building. After taking a spin around both rooms, we were drawn to the Deluxe Room, as it had high ceilings and lots of daylight flooding in from the large windows.
The room
Our Deluxe Room was an absolute dream, designed in cool, neutral shades with sumptuous fabrics and beautiful parquet floors. The focal point of the room is the magnificent king-size bed with a statement headboard and Art Deco bedside lamps, custom-made linen and plush down bedding.
Room features include a large flatscreen TV, work desk with a Raffles writing set, a selection of books curated by the Art Collection Manager, Nespresso machine and kettle with teas, minibar and complimentary mineral water.
After going out for lunch and a stroll through the Old Town, we came back to a beautiful birthday cake with strawberries, fresh cream and delicate flowers from Lourse Warszawa. It was absolutely delicious and such a lovely surprise!
A 24-hour butler service is also included, however we didn’t require much assistance. Our butler did come to the room to oversee our room service order and helped us turn off the audio in the bathroom, so they’re clearly very attentive.
There was also a dedicated turndown service, preparing the room for sleeping with cotton mats and embroidered slippers by the bedside, drawn curtains, dimmed lighting and a refresh of the bathroom area.
The bathroom
We were also wowed by the Art Deco-style marble bathroom with a separate soaking tub (lavender bath salts included), powerful rainfall shower, double sink, underfloor heating, thick cotton towels and face cloths and plush bathrobes.
The bathroom products by exclusive French perfumer Blaise Mautin were also a joy to use, with subtle, harmonious notes of bergamot, petit grain, sweet orange and vetiver.
The spa
One of the reasons we chose Raffles Europejski Warsaw was its fabulous, award-winning spa, which is available to guests everyday. It’s one of the most luxurious, well-maintained spas I’ve ever visited with a serene ambiance and excellent facilites.
The spa has six treatment rooms and restorative treatments using products by Sisley and Aromatherapy Associates. The water circuit includes a heavenly endless upstream indoor pool, powerful sauna and steam room, tropical experience showers and ice fountain. There’s also a state-of-the-art gym, open 24-hours a day, spacious changing rooms and cosy relaxation rooms with bottles of still and sparkling water.
Room service
For the ultimate birthday indulgence, we ordered room service burgers and watched movies. After running around exploring the city’s restaurants every night, it felt like such a treat to slow down and chill out.
The Europejski black angus steak burger came with free-range bacon, burnt shallots, Polish Gouda and sour cucumbers in a brioche bun with a generous portion of hot, crispy French fries – definitely one of my favourite burgers ever.
Breakfast
After a blissful night’s sleep, we headed down to Europejski Grill for a delicious breakfast. The continental buffet had plenty of choice and was neatly presented with home-baked bread and viennoiserie (the best almond croissants I’ve ever tasted), cured meats and fish, artisanal cheese, sliced fruit, yoghurt and cereal.
The full Raffles Europejski Breakfast also includes a main dish and side to order – we went for organic Eggs Benedict and Eggs Royale with sides of avocado topped with dukkah.
There are no theatrics such as the live cooking stations and mimosa trolleys that you often find in five star hotels, but all of the food is high quality and locally sourced and there’s a welcome calmness to the dining room.
Check-out
When we managed to tear ourselves away from our cocoon to check out, we were very kindly given chilled bottles of water for the journey and a big box of hand-painted chocolates from Lourse Warszawa. What could be better than that?
Impressions
Raffles Europejski Warsaw is an incredibly beautiful hotel with superior amenities, however it’s the staff that really make it shine. I’ve never felt so welcome and valued in a hotel before and they made my birthday unforgettable with so many thoughtful touches. I promised to come back and I really meant it – there will always be something to celebrate!
There’s nothing better than a city break to kick off the warmer months, so I was thrilled to be invited to explore the Polish city of Krakow with Jet2holidays. I fell in love with Poland on my first trip to Wroclaw and recently celebrated my birthday in Warsaw, so I was curious to see how Krakow would compare.
Krakow may be the second largest city in Poland but it is by far the most popular destination for travellers and it’s easy to see why – it simply has it all! Not only does the Polish zloty exchange rate make it ideal for cheap holidays, but this fascinating city is very walkable, modern, friendly and safe.
Dating back to the 7th century, Krakow is one of the oldest cities in Poland and was once the country’s capital. It was named the European Capital of Culture in 2000 and is a UNESCO City of Literature, so it has plenty to offer for a weekend break.
The flight
We chose flights from Newcastle Airport and the journey couldn’t have been easier, as we sailed through the newly-upgraded security area in just a few minutes (it was awarded Best Small Airport 2023 for a reason). The departure lounge was buzzing and jolly with mostly couples and groups of friends ready to board their flights to Krakow with Jet2. Boarding was remarkably quick and efficient and the plane seats were nice and comfortable, so the 2 hour 30 minutes flight time flew by.
Krakow Airport is easy to navigate and the best way to travel into the city is the airport train, which arrives at the Central Station in just 20 minutes. Uber and Wolt are also very cheap, convenient options.
The hotel
We stayed in the centre of Krakow for three nights and were booked into PURO Krakow Stare Miasto with Jet2holidays. This fabulous design hotel is conveniently located next to Central Station and the modern Galeria Krakowska shopping mall, plus there is a tram stop just on the doorstep.
PURO is a popular Polish boutique hotel group, known for its cool design aesthetic, tech focus and ‘home away from home’ social spaces. I’ve previously stayed at PURO hotels in Wroclaw and Warsaw and this one certainly didn’t disappoint (there’s also another PURO in the city’s Kazimierz neighbourhood).
Our Classic Room on the second floor was cosy and calm with retro wood panelling, plush red furnishings and large windows letting in plenty of natural daylight. The double bed was extremely comfortable with high quality linens and there was a large flat screen TV – perfect for crashing out after a long day of exploring.
The bathroom also had a powerful walk-in shower, fluffy towels and lovely, full-size bathroom products by Polish skincare brand Alba 1913. Everything in the room is operated by iPad, including lighting, temperature, calls to reception and housekeeping requests.
Each morning, we enjoyed a wonderful buffet breakfast in Hint restaurant with everything you could want to start the day well. I particularly liked the selection of dishes made fresh to order including avocado and poached egg on toast, a Croque Madame and blueberry porridge. There is also a free coffee machine in the lounge (a PURO signature), so you can enjoy a hot drink at any time, day or night.
Here are some of the best things to pack into a long weekend in Krakow…
Krakow Old Town
The historic centre of Krakow was established as a merchants’ town in the 13th century and holds UNESCO World Heritage status. It’s full of charm with cobbled streets, Cracovian street lamps, pastel-hued buildings and horse-drawn carriages.
At the heart of the Old Town is the impressive Rynek Glowny, one of the largest medieval market squares in Europe. Among the popular restaurants, pavement cafes and colourful historic houses, there are a number of monuments to look out for.
The Renaissance-era Cloth Hall was once the centre of commerce for travelling merchants and today you can still find interesting local products including Polish pottery, amber necklaces and woven textiles. The upper floor of the hall features the Sukiennice Museum, housing the largest permanent collection of 19th-century Polish painting and sculpture.
On the main square, you can also find St Mary’s Basilica, the Old Town Hall Tower and Rynek Underground Museum. Also, look out for Eros Bendato (known as ‘the head’), a striking bronze sculpture by Polish artist Igor Mitoraj (1944-2014).
Planty park
Planty park encircles the historic centre with 3km of urban greenery and benches to sit and watch the world go by. It reminded me of parts of New York’s Central Park and is the perfect spot to refuel over coffee and pastries.
Interesting sights along the way include the Barbican fortification, Krakow University’s Collegium Medicum, the baroque Juliusz Slowacki Theatre, idyllic water fountains and the Jadwiga and Jagiello monument.
Wawel Castle
Wawel Royal Castle sits majestically at the top of Wawel Hill, overlooking the Vistula River. The castle was originally built in the 11th century in the Gothic style and was later developed by King Casimir III the Great and extended around around the imposing Italian-styled courtyard.
The Renaissance palace is now a museum comprising five separate areas, including the State Rooms, Crown Treasury and Armoury, Royal Private Apartments, Lost Wawel and the Exhibition of Oriental Art. The museum features an extensive collection of Italian painting, ceramics, porcelain (look out for the playful pug vases), goldsmith’s work, clocks and armour.
You can also venture down into the Dragon’s Den, climb to the top of the Sandomierska Tower, visit the royal gardens or catch a live concert in the courtyard. There’s so much to see that you should plan to spend at least half a day here.
Wawel Castle is free to visit on Mondays from 10am to 4pm, however you need to pick up timed entry tickets for the areas you want to see on arrival at the ticket office.
Kazimierz
Kazimierz is Krakow’s historic Jewish quarter and from the 14th to the 19th century, it was an independent city of its own. It’s now a hotspot for cool restaurants, cafes and bars, however its cultural heritage remains present. Here, you can see the Old Synagogue (dating back to the 1400s), Hebrew wall murals, the Galicia Jewish Museum and listen to klezmer bands performing at the traditional Jewish restaurants lining picturesque Szeroka street.
Kazimierz is also home to bohemian Jozefa street filled with art galleries and cafes and Schindler’s List Passage, a small alleyway used as a filming location for Steven Spielberg’s Oscar-winning Schindler’s List.
Plac Nowy is the beating heart of Kazimierz with restaurants and bars lining the square. In the daytime, it’s home to quirky flea markets selling menorahs and vintage cameras and at night, it’s where everyone goes for late-night munchies.
Zapiekanka, a popular Polish version of a French bread pizza, is sold with a number of toppings from a former fish market building. You can also find enormous kebabs, shawarma and falafel smothered in hummus – a great cheap eat in Krakow.
Museum of Contemporary Art in Krakow MOCAK
Museum of Contemporary Art in Krakow MOCAK is a fantastic contemporary art gallery in the modern Zablocie district. It focusses on art from the last two decades, across all mediums, and the building itself (designed by Claudio Nardi) is quite spectacular.
We loved the Food in Art temporary exhibition with sculptures of golden junk food and patchwork apple cores as well as the Weaves exhibition with intricate woven maps of the world and transformed Persian carpets.
If you’re a guest at PURO Krakow Stare Miasto, you can pick up free tickets to MOCAK at reception – a perk not to be missed!
Manggha Museum of Japanese Art and Technology
Manggha Museum of Japanese Art and Technology celebrates the art and culture of Japan with an impressive permanent collection and interactive exhibitions. Opened in 1994 by Andrzej Wajda and Krystyna Zachwatowicz, Manggha was originally part of the National Museum in Krakow before being granted museum status in its own right.
This stunning building, designed by Japanese architect Arata Isozaki, is perched on the bank of the Vistula river and boasts great views over the city.
The current Background exhibition explores the world of manga, anime and video games with comic books and prints from animation company Studio Ghibli and video game designer Hideo Kojima. Hiroshige: A Journey into the Woodblock Print showcases the work of Japanese ukiyo-e master Utagawa Hiroshige (1797–1858), who left behind over 5,800 works. We had the chance to create our own woodblock prints on postcards, which made fun souvenirs.
It’s worth planning a visit around lunch or afternoon tea to try the excellent Cafe Manggha. We loved the Japanese teriyaki sets with steamed rice, miso soup, edamame, pickles and fresh fruit, washed down with a pot of hojicha roasted green tea and an iced matcha latte.
Krakow street food
Krakow has a fantastic food scene with everything from cheap and hearty street food and traditional Polish cuisine to hip neighbourhood spots and fine dining restaurants. Of course, a trip to Krakow wouldn’t be complete without trying some of the local street food delicacies.
Obwarzanek Krakowski
The famous obwarzanek Krakowski is an absolute must and can be found at bright blue carts around the city’s parks and main streets for a mere 2 zloty. What makes them so special? These golden, braided bread snacks look like a cross between a bagel and a pretzel (but are regarded as neither, so don’t make this faux pas) and are finished with salt, poppy or sesame seeds.
The obwarzanek dates back to the 1600s and was given PGI (Protected Geographic Indication) status in 2010, meaning that it is unique to the region and cannot be copied. They’re baked twice a day in the Malopolskie Province and only stay fresh for a few hours, so be sure to grab one right away.
Oscypek
Head to Krakow’s charming Maly Rynek (Little Market Square) and be dazzled by the stalls of tempting Polish street food. Here, you can try oscypek, a delicious smoked cheese made of salted sheep milk from the Tatra mountains. Enjoy them grilled and doused in cranberry sauce – the contrasting sweet, sour and smoky flavours really work.
You can also find enormous grilled Polish sausages and pork knuckles, home-made iced gingerbread and Polish sweets.
Paczki
If you love doughnuts, try paczki and be prepared to have your mind blown. Paczki dough is richer than regular doughnuts, making them lighter and more fluffy. Dobra Paczkarnia on central Florianska street offers paczki in an overwhelming number of fillings, finished with a choice of glaze or powdered sugar. I reccommend trying the chocolate rum and apple cinnamon flavours – you might even want to take a box for the flight home.
Judah Food Market
Judah Food Market in Kazimierz is a great spot for some tasty street food, especially when it’s sunny. Local food trucks offer bites such as zapiekanki, hot dogs, pierogis, loaded baked potatoes, gourmet burgers, chimney cakes and barista coffee.
Krakow restaurants
The Black Duck
For an indulgent Cracovian feast, look no further than Czarna Kaczka (The Black Duck) in the Old Town. As the name suggests, their speciality is roasted black duck, served in different ways, alongside traditional Polish dishes. We went big and ordered the whole roasted duck stuffed in Galician style, served with Silesian dumplings, roast potatoes, red cabbage and cranberries with both mushroom and blackcurrant sauces.
Our lovely waitress ceremoniously cut through the duck with scissors at the table and the red fruit stuffing tumbled out – it was absolutely epic. The duck was so tender and worked perfectly with the fluffy dumplings, tart fruits and creamy sauce. I would make a pilgrimage back to Krakow for the duck alone.
Bufet KRK
Bufet KRK in Kazimierz is one of Krakow’s hottest restaurants (for now, as least) and luckily we managed to score a table for lunch. It’s a new concept from Przemyslaw Klima, co-owner and head chef at two-Michelin-starred restaurant Bottiglieria 1881.
Bufet takes a modern approach to nostalgic childhood dishes, using high quality local produce. We started with golden, crunchy croquettes with pork cheek, Cheddar and kimchi mayo and refreshing chicory with nuts, Jura Bleu cheese and gooseberry.
They were followed by excellent Duroc pork schnitzel, burnt butter and capers and lamb sausage, green peas, mint and plum barbecue sauce, accompanied by some decadent French fries with truffle mayo and Parmesan.
Be sure to leave room for the heavenly Karpatka with rhubarb – it’s a must! The cooking and service was of a very high standard and I can see Bufet gaining Michelin Guide recognition in the near future.
Molam Thai Canteen & Bar
If you’re craving authentic South-east Asian flavours, head to Molam Thai Canteen & Bar, a lively eatery awarded with a Michelin Bib Gourmand. Inspired by Bangkok street food, Molam offers authentic sharing plates from all four regions of Thailand, alongside creative, aromatic cocktails.
We grazed on flavourful pad see ew (stir-fried rice noodles), grilled pork belly in Haeng Lae glaze. grilled chicken thigh with Nahm Jim Jaew dipping sauce and pik gai tod chilli wing with sweet fish sauce glaze. Everything we tried was deliciously rich and punchy, however it’s worth adding a salad to bring a touch of freshness.
Nolio Pop
On the first night, we hopped on the tram to try Nolio Pop, a modern pizzeria in lively Kazimierz. We had the most fantastic cacio e pepe fried pasta with Parmesan sauce and potato croquettes with smoked mozzarella and nduja mayo, followed by delicious, authentic Neapolitan-style pizzas topped with burrata, basil oil and salami.
Nolio Pop is open until 11pm/12am everyday and no reservations are needed, so it’s perfect if your flight arrives in the early evening.
Krakow is the perfect destination for an affordable, exciting city break and there’s so much to see and do around the city. I would love to go back and see the magic of the Christmas markets on the main square.
Have you visited Krakow on a city break? Where are your favourite places to visit?
Chérie City was a guest of Jet2holidays, however all thoughts and opinions are my own.
Glasgow is such a fun, vibrant city for a weekend break and with such a thriving food scene, you’re guaranteed to eat well. There are plenty of exciting spots in the city centre, but you don’t want to miss the West End for cute neighbourhood cafes and top restaurants around Finnieston, Hyndland and Byres Road near the University.
Here are some recent discoveries to add to your list…
Ox and Finch
Ox and Finch is one of Finnieston’s hottest restaurants, retaining a Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand for over ten years. Chef patron Jonathan MacDonald (previously head chef at Formula One) returned to his home city to open Ox and Finch in 2014 and has built on his success with popular Southeast Asian restaurant Ka Pao in Edinburgh and Glasgow.
Just around the corner from Kelvingrove Park, this Sauchiehall Street bistro has a casual, urban-rustic feel with cosy leather booths and an open kitchen to watch the chefs at work. The menu is equally relaxed with well-priced, creative small plates designed for sharing. Seasonal Scottish ingredients are expertly enhanced by Mediterranean and Asian flavours.
I dined solo and enjoyed a few dishes for a light(ish) lunch. Confit duck salad, tahini dressing and pistachio dukkah was an aromatic twist on a bistro classic with tender morsels of meat, bitter leaves, fresh herbs and a crunchy pangrattato.
I also loved the rich, melt-in-the-mouth pan-fried pork belly with charred, wilted radicchio and sharp rhubarb. Somehow, I chose two dishes with bitter elements, but a rather majestic, chocolatey dessert proved to be balm for the tastebuds.
Bare Bones chocolate blancmange with malt cream and salted honeycomb was absolute bliss with contrasting gelatinous, airy and crunchy textures. It rounded off a joyful, interesting meal with friendly service – I’ll definitely be back for more!
SHUCKS
SHUCKS is a fabulous Scottish seafood bar and restaurant from the team behind Brett and Michelin-starred Cail Bruich. The two-floor eatery on leafy Hyndland Road feels glossy and new with a bold nautical palette of blue, mustard and burnt orange (reminding me of Wes Anderson’s The Life Aquatic). It’s unpretentious yet there’s an air of decadence with the promise of fresh lobster, oysters and Champagne from the trolley.
Head chef Shaun Haggarty’s menu showcases the finest produce from across Scotland (sourced from the Glasgow Fish Market) and flirts with Japanese, Indian and Mexican influences. I tried the lunch menu, which is excellent value with two courses for £25 or three courses for £30.
Shellfish chowder was rich and pungent and came with grilled bread and velvety brown crab butter for next level dipping. It’s rare to find a lobster roll on a set menu and this one was actually one of the best I’ve ever tasted (even if it technically included prawns). The generously-packed prawn and lobster roll was so luxurious and had a sweet, smoky flavour from the grilled corn and lango mayo. Crispy, golden tater tots finished it off perfectly!
I headed to Byres Road for dessert, but there’s a rather tempting giant pistachio profiterole, crème brûlée or affogato.
Chaakoo
Chaakoo first brought the ever popular Bombay cafe concept to central St Vincent Street in 2016 and it now has another restaurant in the West End and one in Edinburgh. It echoes the OG Dishoom in both menu and style (think sepia family portraits, smoked mirrors and cosy booths), however it’s significantly lighter on the wallet.
We managed to get a balcony table at the split-level city centre restaurant (it’s constantly busy, so booked ahead) and enjoyed an indulgent Indian feast. It’s all about family style sharing dishes with a tantalising offering of fried pakora and samosa, curries, biryani and Irani kebabs cooked in the open kitchen’s tandoor, robata and traditional khule grill.
Everything was high quality and generously-sized but the stand out dishes were the crispy fried vegetable pakora, velvety butter chicken with lots of tender, slow-cooked meat and the incredible chicken tikka smoked on whisky chips with a cooling homemade mint chutney.
Chaakoo also offers great value lunch deals with a choice of Thali trays or a grill and curry set meal – perfect for a quick bite.
Paesano Pizza
Great Italian food is easy to find in Glasgow, thanks to the enterprising spirit of the city’s large Italian community. Many arrived from mostly from Tuscany in the 1920s and set up successful businesses including ice cream parlours, cafes and pizza restaurants. The new Neapolitan pizza wave hit Glasgow, like most major cities, and is said to have been spearheaded by Paesano Pizza, whose first pizzeria opened in 2015 in Merchant City (there’s now another in the West End).
The Miller Street restaurant is big and boisterous with pizza pies flying out of the open kitchen at speed and Negronis knocked back with gusto. The pizza-making, however, is much more serious, as the all-Italian team of Pizzaioli follow the traditional Napoletana process and everything is sourced from Italy. The dough is proved for over 24 hours and heated at 500 degrees in the artisan wood-fire pizza oven built specially in Naples.
The pizza we tried was quite a beast with a huge amount of toppings, almost verging on too much. The dough was light and chewy with a nicely blistered crust and finished with plenty of juicy tomato sugo, creamy fior di latte and fresh basil. With excellent pizza starting at just £7.90 (the most expensive being under £13), it’s the perfect spot for a fun night out in Glasgow.
Kember and Jones
Kember and Jones is a popular neighbourhood cafe, deli and bakery on Byres Road in the West End. It’s known for its all-day brunch dishes, gourmet sourdough sandwiches and tempting home-made cakes. They also produce their own coffee beans and operate an off-site coffee roastery.
I stopped by for a warming hot chocolate made with dark chocolate flakes and a slice of the most decadent vanilla chai cake.
Tantrum Doughnuts
Stepping out of Glasgow Central Station, what could be a more welcome sight than an artisan doughnut and coffee shop? Tantrum Doughnuts is home to the city’s best hand-crafted doughnuts and it’s become a real local success story.
Owners Iain and Erika started their doughnut business at food markets and festivals, drawing on their pastry and hospitality industry skills. Their first shop opened in 2015 in the West End and there are now three locations across Glasgow.
What makes Tantrum stand out from the rest? They work with local producers to offer creative, seasonal doughnuts finished with home-made fruit jams, custards and toppings. The flavours are all tantalising and range from a simple birthday cake ‘old fashioned’ ring to the bestselling crème brûlée with Madagascan vanilla bean custard and a crunchy torched sugar top.
Having tried a few different flavours, my favourites were the glazed pistachio and hibiscus topped with candied nuts and milk and cookies dusted with chocolate crumble. It would be crazy not to grab a box to take home on the train.
Have you tried any of these Glasgow eateries? Where are your favourite places to eat out in Glasgow?
Grand Joanne is one of Copenhagen’s most talked about new lifestyle hotels and it’s safe to say that it lives up to the hype. The Danish capital’s hotel scene has flourished in recent years, establishing its reputation as a style city. With gorgeous new residences such as Coco Hotel, 25hours Hotel Indre By and Villa Copenhagen, there’s never been a better time to visit.
The hotel
Set across six floors of a newly-restored building from the 1800s, the hotel is illuminated with a warm, golden glow. With a cute hot chocolate cart and pastel pink bicycles lined up in front of the cinema-style entrance, it was instantly clear that this grande dame was going to be a winner.
Location
The hotel is nestled on a corner of central Vesterbrogade within walking distance of the Tivoli Gardens, the bars and restaurants of the Meatpacking District and Central Station. Its convenient location makes it the perfect choice for first-timers in Copenhagen, as well as seasoned visitors wanting to explore nearby Vesterbro and Frederiksberg.
Design
Inside, the hotel feels like an intimate townhouse with a series of lounges with cosy sofas, marble coffee tables, art books and plush rugs. We visited in December, so there was a stylish Christmas tree by the window and rose-tinted baubles and paper stars hanging from the ceiling.
A terracotta-tiled conservatory, with striking murals of the lady herself sipping a Martini (I’m guessing), leads out to a leafy courtyard garden and pergola for meetings and parties. There’s also a seasonal rooftop bar for dinner and drinks with a view.
Check-in was quick and friendly and we were kindly given a free upgrade to a Superior Room on the first floor. Even the hallways are pretty with pastel pink walls and a jazzy black and white striped carpet.
The Room
Our room was an absolute beauty, designed in a calming, natural colour palette with plenty of daylight and space. It was also very quiet and peaceful, especially considering it’s in a busy part of town.
The king-size bed was ever so comfortable, covered in high quality cotton linen with plump pillows, a decorative patterned headboard and art prints above. Needless to say, we slept blissfully every night (no overheating, hard mattresses or noisy corridors here).
Other room features include a large flat-screen TV with streaming access, music system, cosy sofa and armchair, work desk, vases and ornaments by HAY and a sleek, goose-neck Bodum kettle with coffee and Yogi herbal teas.
A fun touch is the vanity table with a light bulb mirror and a cute ‘Joanne’ pink organza scrunchie for getting ready in style. These feminine accents certainly give the hotel more character and set it apart from the rest.
The room feels truly homely as everything functions well and has been thoughtfully designed – there’s no ‘putting up’ or ‘making do’ at Joanne’s.
The Bathroom
The gorgeous mushroom-tiled bathroom has a powerful walk-in shower, luxurious underfloor heating, thick and fluffy towels and deliciously-scented full-size bathroom products made exclusively for the hotel.
Joanne’s restaurant
We didn’t eat at the hotel on this occasion, as we had dinner plans at nearby Propaganda and wanted to try Hart Bageri for breakfast. However, next time we would make time to visit the hotel’s stunning restaurant, Joanne’s. The design is warm and maximalist with boho furnishings and artefacts inspired by travel.
The menu is contemporary Italian with crowd-pleasing burrata, salumi, pasta and risotto paired with Negronis and spritzes.
The hotel has a 24-hour gym and regularly yoga classes, however a sauna or steam room would really take it to the next level.
The Grand Joanne is a chic yet easy-going hotel where you can feel comfortable and well cared for. If you’re planning a city break in Copenhagen, make sure you stay chez Joanne.
Eating out is the highlight of any trip to Barcelona and the city’s food scene is more exciting than ever. Beyond the obligatory gooey tortilla and mountains of croquetas, you can find creative Lebanese small plates, seafood paella at a beachfront xiringuito, moreish loaded fried chicken or award-winning Neapolitan pizza.
Barcelona is still very good value for such a popular major city with an abundance of fresh, Mediterranean produce, so you’re guaranteed to eat well. Here are a few top places to add to your list…
Albé Barcelona
Albé means ‘my heart’ in Lebanese and the name perfectly fits a place with such feeling and warmth. This stylish Eixample ‘gastrobar’ has an upscale, romantic feel with a dimly-lit, plant-filled atrium and a brighter, more relaxed bar area.
Chef Pachi Rodriguez expertly weaves Lebanese and Catalan flavours, creating an enticing menu that’s made for sharing.
We started with a luscious gin and basil cocktail and grazed on velvety smoked labneh with zaatar, eggplant dust and Lebanese bread. This was followed by some bite-size snacks – fresh and delicate red prawn from Palamós baklava, Albé’s signature falafel and the most indulgent wild boar brioche with royal sauce.
Iberian cheek over French toast, demi-glace, smoked sour cream and pickled turnip was an absolute delight, as was the fragrant, rich acorn-fed duck magret with freekeh, bimi and bigarade sauce. We also loved the beautifully-presented charred cauliflower with browned and smoked butter.
We finished with the most decadent chocolate cake with cardamom and orange blossom caramel. It was such a memorable meal with exemplary service and fabulous dishes – I’m still daydreaming about it right now.
La Pepita
La Pepita is the kind of neighbourhood tapas bar that you always hope to find on a trip. It’s so popular among locals (and the guests at Seventy Barcelona opposite) that there’s a queue almost every night, however Mini Pepita has recently opened a few doors down to squeeze everyone in.
It has a bustling, unpretentious vibe with industrial-style interiors and cute graffiti from guests on the walls. Traditional tapas dishes are reimagined with Asian and French influences and creative flavours run through every dish on the menu.
We loved the snack size steak tartare, piquant patatas bravas and the moreish red shrimp croquettes with romesco sauce.
Sautéed beef tenderloin with Café de Paris sauce, eggplant and baba ganoush was tender and aromatic, however the standout dish was the unbelievable Can Pepi fried chicken with sweet and sour green curry vinaigrette and tangy pickled cabbage.
It’s essential to leave room for a heavenly matcha green tea cheesecake with cherries in syrup and ginger ice cream. Cocktails are also reasonable and generously-sized – go for a classic Negroni or Aperol spritz.
This modern, industrial-chic pizzeria in Eixample fires up Neapolitan-style pizza with a difference. Instead of typically importing ingredients from Italy, it uses the finest seasonal, organic produce sourced from local Catalan farms.
Chefs Rafa Panatieri and Jorge Sastre worked in the kitchens of Michelin-starred restaurants including Portal de Echaurren and Nectari before meeting as part of the Roca brothers’ team in Barcelona. They later realised their dream of a unique, sustainable ‘farm to pizza’ concept with two restaurants in Gracia and Eixample.
The burrata stracciatella, tomato and basil pesto pizza was an absolute joy – juicy, aromatic and indulgently creamy with a chewy, blistered crust. Also, don’t miss out on some exceptional salumi made in-house – we loved the thinly-sliced roasted porchetta with sucking pig hollandaise sauce.
Xiringuito Escriba
Is there anything better than sharing a magnificent paella overlooking the beach? Our dreams came true at Xiringuito Escriba, a casual restaurant opened by Joan Escribà on Bogatell Beach in 1992 that specialises in rice, fideuà and fresh seafood.
In the mood to try a bit of everything, we went for the surf & turf paella. We munched on some croquetas and watched the hourglass with anticipation as our rice simmered away in the oven.
When it arrived it was enormous with a majestic whole scampi and bountiful, lightly scorched chicken, pork ribs, mussels, cuttlefish, vegetables and mushrooms. We were given a wooden spoon to pull away the gloriously caramelised socarrat at the bottom of the pan.
The paella was so hearty and satisfying, however if you find room for dessert, Escribà has long been known for fine pastries.
Doppietta
For a fun night of gorgeous fresh pasta, salumi and spritzes, look no further than Doppietta in the cool Sant Antoni neighbourhood. This lively modern trattoria from the team behind Benzina (just next door) focusses on specialities from Brescia, chef Nicola Valle’s home city in northern Italy.
Doppietta is above all known for its magnificent sharing plates of artisanal salumi with all of the fixings. Choose your own selection of three or five Italian cheeses and cured meats and it will be sliced to order at the in-house salumeria and presented at the table with little pots of olives, marmellata, pickled vegetables and freshly-baked bread.
The fresh pasta is also fantastic, served family style for sharing. Both the indulgent gnocchi with red shrimp, peas and lemon and cavatelli with white chicken ragu and pecorino really hit the spot. Be sure to leave room for the delicious chocolate salami and refreshing orange and ginger sorbet.
El Xampanyet
There may be a queue down the street for a seat at El Xampanyet, but it’s totally worth the wait! This traditional tapas bar in El Born, next to the Picasso Museum, has been around since 1929 and is much-loved among locals and visitors. It’s not exactly a hidden gem, but inside you can revel in the unchanged atmosphere of ‘old Barcelona’.
Colourful ceramic tiles and vintage signs adorn the walls, the tiny marble tables hold just a few plates and the bar is filled with tasty snacks. El Xampanyet is named after its own house Cava, which is a steal at just a few Euros a glass.
For a light lunch, we went for super fresh prawns cooked in lots of garlic and olive oil, gooey tortilla and slow-cooked chickpeas with pork rinds. The food is fantastic and the staff are so warm and friendly – it’s definitely one to add to your list.
Four Corners
The Hoxton Poblenou really knows how to please its hotel guests and locals, serving up epic Detroit-style pizza and tempting Italian-American sides.
Four Corners on the ground floor is many wonderful things – a slice shop with adjoining bodega, an outdoor pizza terrace for those balmy evenings and a breezy, relaxed dining room.
We started with a big bowl of Caesar salad with chicken and some chunky mozzarella sticks with spicy arrabbiata sauce. The vodka meatball pizza was unbelievable with plump meatballs, lots of juicy red sauce, fresh basil and a mix of cheddar cheese, Pecorino and Parmesan, giving it a mega cheese pull and crunchy edges.
The small pizza (four slices) is more than enough for two people, making it excellent value – what more could you want?
Xuba Tacos
Xuba Tacos in Eixample is known as the best taqueria in the city and it’s easy to see why. In 2021, two Michelin starred chef Antonio Sáez and hotel director Raul Salcido (both formerly of Hotel Arts Barcelona) teamed up to put their own modern spin on Mexican street food.
There’s a good selection of traditional tacos and quesadillas, plus creative chef’s specials with sirloin steak, fresh tuna, roast duck, foie gras and truffles. Handmade blue corn tortillas are piled high with tender spit-roasted meats, fresh veggies and herbs and authentic Oaxaca cheese (add as much spicy salsa macha as you can handle).
It’s hard to pick a favourite between the grilled beef steak tacos with red sauce and avocado, al pastor with marinated roast pork, pineapple, spring onion and cilantro and the grilled chicken quesadilla. Guacamole and blue corn chips are also a must!
Enlagloria Salad House
If you’re craving some greens after all of those croquetas, head to Enlagloria Salad House for a speedy, healthy lunch. This high end salad house chain by entrepreneur Gloria Rodés is Barcelona’s answer to sweetgreen, offering seasonal composed salads and a ‘create your own’ option.
Go for a vitamin-rich miso salmon bowl with artichokes and quinoa or the signature kale Caesar salad with tender rosemary chicken, crispy chickpeas, Parmesan and hemp seeds – so delicious. There’s also a free water station with chilled filtered still and sparkling water to keep you hydrated.
Vitrina Barcelona
Vitrina Barcelona is an indie coffee shop on the ground floor of Magatzem 128, a petite design hotel in Eixample. Hotel guests can roll downstairs for a light breakfast or afternoon caffeine fix, however it’s also a popular neighbourhood spot for locals with their laptops or a quick take-out coffee.
The strong matcha lattes are fantastic, as well as the home-made almond babka and vegan iced lemon and poppyseed cake.
At lunchtime, you can enjoy a hearty sourdough grilled cheese or loaded avocado toast.
L’Atelier Barcelona
L’Atelier Barcelona is a world-class bakery and pastry school run by renowned pastry chefs Ximena Pastor and Eric Ortuño. With sleek, futuristic interiors and a counter laden with exquisite treats, L’Atelier is the perfect spot for afternoon tea or an elevated coffee and croissant breakfast.
We tried the signature cornet croissants – one stuffed with lemon meringue and the other with raspberry, mascarpone and vanilla glaze – and they were so deliciously crisp and bursting with flavour.
Have you been to any of these Barcelona eateries? Where are your favourite places to eat out in the city?
Our summer holiday was spent rediscovering Barcelona and we wanted to find a hotel that has it all. Seventy Barcelona proved to be the perfect urban resort with everything under one roof. In fact, it was often hard to leave this sanctuary of calm.
The Hotel
This sleek, modern design hotel opened in 2019 and is located in Barcelona’s central Eixample district, within walking distance of the Passeig de Gràcia, Casa Milà and La Sagrada Família. It may have the spirit of an independent hotel, however it’s part of a local group that includes Hotel 1989, Hotel REC and The Corner.
Arrival
Walking through the doors, the open-plan lobby immediately feels calm yet cosmopolitan with the buzz of guests checking in and locals visiting for coffee meetings. It also seems to be a hotspot for luxury fashion and beauty brands to host events in its many conference spaces (we noticed a major perfume house was in residence during our stay).
The gleaming White Hall is quite breathtaking with floor to ceiling windows letting in lots of natural light. Books are stacked high in the clubby library and among the leafy plants there’s an elegant spiral staircase leading up to a cosy nook.
Check-in
Check-in was efficient and welcoming and the receptionist kindly offered us bottles of mineral water as we headed out for lunch while waiting for our room to be ready. The front desk team were fantastic throughout our stay and assisted with daily spa bookings and scored us a last-minute reservation at La Pepita, a wonderful tapas bar just over the road.
The Room
Rooms at Seventy range from a House Room to the impressive Duplex Suite. Our spacious Seventy Room, overlooking Calle Córcega, was an absolute dream with fresh, modern interiors in a monochrome palette. Despite its city location, it had a luxury beach club feel with wood panelling and a mini patio with shutters blocking out the metropolis below.
Room features include a large Smart TV with HDMI and USB connection, luxury minibar, Nespresso machine and a separate kettle with a selection of teas, powerful air-conditioning and speedy free wifi.
The double bed was ever so sumptuous with crisp cotton linen and extra plump monogrammed pillows (there’s a pillow menu too, but the hotel’s choices were spot on). Needless to say we had a very peaceful night’s sleep.
The Bathroom
The stylish marble-effect bathroom has a powerful walk-in shower with full-size ABC bath amenities, bathrobes and slippers, fluffy towels and hair straighteners (a thoughtful touch).
The Rooftop
The jewel of the hotel has to be the fabulous Urban Beach Club on the seventh floor rooftop. We spent a lot of time relaxing on the solarium’s candy striped sunloungers and dipping into the glorious pool surrounded by fragrant white flowers.
The nautical-style lounge also offers light bites, tapas and ice cold drinks so you don’t need to go too far to refuel. Nothing says ‘holiday’ quite like a tucking into a juicy burger and Champagne by the pool.
The Spa
Another perk of staying at Seventy Barcelona is the award-winning spa. The softly-lit wellness area features a wonderful heated pool with hydromassage, a dry sauna and a steam bath. Hotel guests can enjoy the water circuit for 30 minutes a day for free and this can be booked by the front desk or the spa reception. It really was a restorative experience and the highlight of our stay. Organic and vegan treatments are also available in the treatment rooms.
Breakfast
Breakfast is a big affair at Seventy and you can choose to sit in the idyllic couryard garden or a comfy booth in The Kitchen & Timeless.
The meticulously-managed buffet breakfast has everything you could possibly want to start the day, including home-made cakes, cold-pressed green juice and a fun Cava cart for morning Mimosas. Everything is high quality and well-presented, so it’s definitely worth it.
Shortly after our visit, an exciting new restaurant from chefs Nino Redruello, Patxi Zumarraga and Jaime Santianes (the team behind Fismuler) opened on the ground floor. Molino de Pez takes inspiration from La Ancha, a family-run Madrid restaurant with over 100 years of history, using seasonal local ingredients cooked on an open fire grill and wood.
Seventy Barcelona is the perfect place to stay if you want to balance exploring Barcelona with some serious relaxation. Not only is it stylish and impressive, but the attentive service and central location make it an unbeatable choice.
Milan is the perfect weekend break destination, as you can whizz around the city’s best cultural sites and still have time for some shopping. It may be viewed as a ‘working city’ compared to picturesque Venice and Florence, but Milan certainly has a great energy in the warmer months.
Food is also high on the agenda, whether it’s tucking into a rich Milanese risotto in a neighbourhood osteria, exquisite Prada-approved pastries at the most fashionable bakery in town or fresh pasta and profiteroles in a secret garden in lively Navigli.
Here are a few Milan addresses to add to your travel list…
Al Fresco
Al Fresco is one of the prettiest restaurants in Milan with a beautiful garden courtyard for outdoor dining. Not only is it elegant and picture perfect, but the food is truly delicious.
We started with two fantastic pasta dishes – an indulgent Rigatoni cacio e pepe with crispy guanciale and the rich, flavourful Pici with double tomato, olive oil, fresh basil and 36-months aged Parmigiano Reggiano.
This was followed by a classic Milanese veal cutlet served with crunchy home-made potato chips and a juicy Grilled beef tenderloin with chimichurri sauce, friggitelli and roasted onions.
It’s also essential to leave some room for the magnificent Big profiterole filled with vanilla ice cream, custard and poured dark chocolate and the lighter Zabaglione with Moscato di Pantelleria and buttery langues de chat. The owners are so warm and hospitable, ensuring that every guest leaves with a little bag of home-made biscuits and a taxi for rolling on home.
Osteria Della Darsena
Osteria Della Darsena is a cosy, typically Milanese restaurant nestled between the Darsena and the Naviglio Grande. It has a timeless, neighbourhood feel with flowing wine and a concise menu of Lombardy’s most iconic dishes.
We started with the glorious, aromatic Milanese risotto and rich, rustic Home-made pappardelle with wild boar ragu. The portion sizes were so big that I had to change my order from the Milanese veal cutlet to a lighter Burrata with vegetable caponata. Beef cheeks with potato cakes were so tender and hearty with no less than four enormous chunks to get through.
If you’re staying in the Navigli area, it’s a great choice for a memorable, relaxed evening and you definitely won’t leave hungry.
Berberè
Berberè is renowned for its healthy, sharable pizza made with living sourdough and high quality Italian ingredients. Established in 2010, it now has outposts across Italy and two in London (Clapham and Kentish Town).
The Navigli restaurant is cool and colourful with exposed brick walls and an open kitchen and counter. It’s set among some lively bars on Via Vigevano, where the party literally spills out onto the street, so you could spend a fun night out there.
We ordered one red and one white pizza – Prosciutto crudo from Norcia with Apulian burrata, rocket, fior di latte and orange olive oil and Norma with oven-roasted aubergines, tomato, fior di latte, grated smoked ricotta and fresh basil. They were both high quality and substantial yet very different – Norma was rich and smoky while the prosciutto had freshness and a unique flavour from the orange oil.
Mercato Centrale
Having visited Mercato Centrale in Florence, I was happy to discover an outpost in Milan. This fabulous, two-floor street food market is conveniently located inside Milan’s grand Central Station, making it the perfect stop for your first bite in the city.
It has a modern, industrial style with graffiti and posters on the walls. Chefs and artisans have curated each kitchen where you can find an array of Italy’s regional dishes, alongside sushi, dim sum, smash burgers and Texas barbecued ribs. Many of the vendors welcome you with tasty morsels on sticks, so you can see what grabs your attention.
Sergio Barzetti’s tomato and mozzarella arancini and Milanese risotto are essentials. We also enjoyed the foccaccia with golden, thinly-sliced potato and rosemary and a cassata Siciliana from Sabato Sessa.
The market is open daily from 7am until midnight and there are lots of food talks and cultural events.
God Save the Food
God Save the Food has long been a favourite lunch spot among stylish Milanese (Chiara Ferragni is a fan) with outposts across the city. It’s known as a speedy lunch spot with modern interiors and balanced dishes such as quinoa bowls, salads, club sandwiches and wok stir-fried noodles.
Before spending the afternoon at the Pinacoteca di Brera, we had a quick lunch on the terrace at God Save the Food Brera on the charming Piazza del Carmine. The Caesar salad with herby poached chicken, crispy bacon, parmesan flakes and crunchy croutons was so tasty and subtantial – perfect for a quick refuel on the go.
Sant Ambroeus
Sant Ambroeus is an established part of Milan’s city life, where fashion and business players meet for a power breakfast and the inimitable ‘sciure‘ hold court over afternoon tea.
The original pastry shop on Corso Giacomo Matteotti (close to the Teatro alla Scala) was established in 1936, but later closed in the 1980s to focus on US expansion. Luckily, it returned to its original home in 2022 with a new restaurant offering and a reimagined look by designer Fabrizio Casiraghi.
There are a few nods to its American cousins with a signature cheese burger and New England lobster roll on the menu, however teatime is all about Italian pastry at its finest.
We enjoyed pots of Earl Grey tea from the wonderful La Via del Tè (they have a delightful store in Brera) and shared the signature Sant Ambroeus princess cake.
This light, dome-shaped sponge cake is layered with raspberry jam and custard under a veil of orange marzipan – absolute perfection!
If you’re in Milan around Christmas, be sure to visit Sant Ambroeus for a luxury, hand-made panettone – a seasonal speciality from the Lombardy region.
Marchesi
A stroll around the breathtaking Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II wouldn’t be complete without teatime at Pasticceria Marchesi. The historic Milanese pastry shop was established in 1824 and is now owned by Prada with three locations in the city.
Its pistachio-hued tea salon on the first floor is ideal for people watching over a hot drink and a carefully-chosen cake from the counter (the waiters are ready to make helpful recommendations).
We enjoyed another exquisite pastel pink princess cake and pistachio cream cake with a molten, thick hot chocolate and a richly-roasted Italian coffee.
If the queue for the tea salon is just too long, you can usually walk straight into the adjoining espresso bar that has the same pastries and admittedly a more lively atmosphere.
Princi
Princi broke many hearts when it departed London, but good news, you can find it all over Milan. This chic cafe and bakery serves up pizza al taglio, colourful salads and traditional pastries all day long. We enjoyed some foccaccia slices smothered in gooey mozzarella, washed down with an excellent freshly-squeezed orange juice.
It’s worth looking out for the nearest Princi when you’re out and about for a quick, casual and reasonably priced lunch. We even picked up a few treats to take to the airport.
Have you visited Milan recently? Where are your favourite places to eat?
Edinburgh has become one of my favourite cities for a stylish weekend break. Not only is it a beautiful city with incredible architecture and (mostly) free national museums, but there are so many new hotel and restaurant openings to discover.
On my recent trip, I just had to stay at Eden Locke, the debut outpost of Locke aparthotels in Scotland. Staying at a Locke apartment means more space and home comforts than your average hotel, topped off with Insta-worthy interiors.
I’ve previously stayed at Kingland Locke in Dalston and Leman Locke in Aldgate and loved the vibe of both London properties, so I was excited to see how Eden Locke would compare.
Location
Eden Locke has a typically Scottish sense of understated elegance, set across an 18th century Georgian mansion on prestigious George Street in the New Town (a UNESCO Heritage Site). It’s perfectly located among Edinburgh’s high end shops and restaurants and is within walking distance of the verdant Princes Street Gardens, Scottish National Gallery and St Andrew Square. The Old Town and Waverley Station are around 15 minutes on foot.
Design
Like most Locke properties in the UK, Eden Locke has been designed by acclaimed New York architects Grzywinski+Pons. They have expertly transformed a rather sober building into a dreamy, pastel-hued sociable residence. There is a subtle tropical feel to the public areas with wicker chairs and sprawling plants, plus highlights of gold and striking mustard that can be found throughout.
Arrival
It instantly feels like a cool place to stay, as you walk into the light-filled, open-plan pistachio and vanilla coffee bar and lounge. The reception desk is seamlessly perched at one side of the bar and there are plenty of smiling, friendly staff on hand to welcome guests and store luggage – we never noticed any queues.
Mayvn Cafe
Before heading out for lunch at the brilliant Noto, we had a quick caffeine refuel at Mayvn Cafe, Eden Locke’s third wave coffee shop, natural wine bar and co-working space by local experts, Common. It’s also a port in the storm for Edinburgh locals, who flock here for the excellent coffee, juices and pastries and laptop-friendly atmosphere.
The Studio
Our first floor Mezzanine Studio was a real gem with large Georgian windows flooding the space with natural light, perfectly showing off the pretty two-tone pastel walls. The homely, open-plan lounge features Locke’s signature L-shaped sofa in an attractive pistachio shade with a bright coral lamp, shaggy rug and a large Smart TV with Google Chromecast and Apple box.
The Kitchen
The powder blue kitchen has all the designer essential for a long or short stay with a marble dining table, handy dishwasher, washer/dryer, fridge/freezer, oven/hob and gold cooking utencils. There’s also a kettle with ground coffee and Field Work Teas and fresh milk in the fridge.
The Bedroom
The bedroom on the upper floor feels cosy and slightly separated with a comfortable double bed with a torteoiseshell padded headboard, a colourful wool throw, luxurious waffle bathrobes and slippers and plenty of storage space.
The Bathroom
Contrasting the pastel aesthetic with touches of bold mustard, the bathroom is sleek and well-sized with a powerful rainfall shower, fluffy cotton towels and Kinsey Apothecary bath products.
Eden Locke has 72 studios and suites in various sizes, but it’s worth booking a brighter studio on the front of the building.
There is no gym or spa, however every apartment has a yoga mat and the hotel has a partnership with East Side Yoga and fitness app Fiit, so you can sign up for 30 days free access to over 700 online workouts.
Eden Locke is a fabulous base for exploring Edinburgh, especially if you’re looking for a home away from home. I would definitely stay again and am keen to check out Locke’s upcoming openings in Berlin, Copenhagen and Paris.
Coco opened in 2019 and has become popular among travellers for its chic, affordable rooms and verdant inner courtyard where locals cycle over to spend their evenings over glasses of natural wine.
You may already be familiar with its owner – it’s the first hotel from Copenhagen Food Collective (known as Cofoco), the brains behind buzzing Copenhagen restaurants like Høst, Scarpetta, Les Trois Cochons, Vaekst and Vespa.
Arrival
It’s impossible to miss Coco Hotel on Vesterbrogade with its colourful Parisian-style striped awnings and traditional pavement cafe tables. We arrived after 5pm and found the hotel beautifully decorated for Christmas and in a rather jolly mood, as guests were midway through the complimentary wine hour.
We were warmly welcomed by the friendly, dynamic team and swiftly given the old school brass tassel key to our room (don’t worry, they take care of it while you’re out).
Cafe Coco & Coco Bar à Vin
The reception curves around to the open-plan Cafe Coco, a casual space with French art posters, bistro-style tables and cosy nooks. Here you can enjoy light meals including morning pastries and organic coffee, healthy avocado toast and burrata for lunch and an evening cheeseboard with charcuterie and sourdough.
From 4pm, the cafe and leafy courtyard seamlessly become Coco Bar à Vin, offering over 150 different wines carefully chosen by the sommelier.
The Room
The hotel’s 88 rooms range from a petite Single Room to a spacious Junior Suite and there is a Family Suite with a separate room and Playstation 4 for kids.
We were instantly charmed by our cute, bohemian Small Double Room and found it slightly more spacious than expected. It reminded me of Hotel Amour and Le Pigalle in northern Paris, but with a sense of Nordic simplicity.
The neutral greige walls were complemented by stylish rattan furniture, a brass clothes rail and a retro photography print above the wooden headboard custom-built by local furniture makers Københavns Møbelsnedkeri.
The double bed was extremely comfortable with a plush Auping mattress, organic cotton linen and plump pillows – we slept very well during our stay. The large windows opened out to the courtyard (so the room was nice and quiet) and there was also a flatscreen TV, free wifi, a selection of art books and a gourmet organic snack tray.
Tea and coffee facilities and a mini fridge would offer some home comforts, however they are not offered due to the hotel’s environmental policy.
Edit: we enjoyed Coco Hotel so much that we visited again in 2024 and stayed in a Superior Double Room with bright blue walls, overlooking the street. Everything was excellent and it was worth choosing the larger room for more space, although I did prefer the Christmas tree view over the courtyard.
The Bathroom
The bathroom was petite and spotlessly clean with smooth pastel pink tiles, a walk-in shower, fully opening windows (a rarity in hotels these days), eco-friendly Hopal toiletries and a gorgeous Laboratorio Olfattivo handwash. I was particularly impressed with the powerful underfloor heating, which made the room feel even more cosy.
Breakfast
Each morning, we started the day with breakfast at Delphine, the hotel’s bright and spacious sister restaurant just across the road. The organic breakfast buffet was simple but high quality with a selection of freshly-baked breads, flaky pastries, Danish cured meats and cheeses, soft boiled eggs, pomegranate and coconut chia pudding and a selection of fresh juices.
Some scrambled eggs and bacon would have made it feel more indulgent, but clearly the hotel has a healthier approach.
Amenities
Coco Hotel is nothing like Copenhagen’s many corporate hotels, so you won’t find a business centre, event spaces or a gym. Instead, you can play ping pong in the 5th floor games room and take advantage of the hotel’s health and wellbeing partnerships with Vesterbronx Gym, Ara’Kai beauty, AIRE Ancient Baths Copenhagen and STUDIO 41 Pilates.
Sustainability
Denmark is officially the second greenest country in the world (just behind Sweden) and Green Key certified Coco Hotel has its own clever sustainability practices. Cofoco owns a solar park in Jutland, which powers the hotel and the entire restaurant group with clean, green energy. Coco Hotel also partners with Eden Reforestation Projects to help plant trees in Kenya.
Location
Coco Hotel is in the heart of lively Vesterbro surrounded by notable restaurants, cafes, bars and bakeries and conveniently, an easy 10-minute walk from Central Station. Also nearby is the Meatpacking District, where you can dine around hotspots like Fleisch, Warpigs, Mother and Hija de Sanchez. For a spot of culture, Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, the National Museum of Denmark and the iconic Tivoli Gardens are just 20 minutes away on foot.
Impressions
Coco Hotel is the perfect choice for a relaxed, budget-friendly city break, especially if you love characterful hotels in a cool, creative area. It has plenty of Wes Anderson-style eccentricities but everything functions well and it generally exceeded my expectations.
A Geordie weekend brunch is serious business, so be prepared for some next level scran with killer portion sizes that will set you up for the day. From perfect pancake stacks and French toast to spicy Shakshuka and Eggs Benny, morning food reigns supreme here and the local love for hash browns is real!
Here are some of the best places for an all-day breakfast fix in Newcastle upon Tyne…
Aidan’s Kitchen
Let’s start with a banger… Aidan’s Kitchen is one of my favourite brunch spots not just in Newcastle, but anywhere! This petite cafe on the corner of Starbeck Road in Sandyford is dedicated solely to breakfast and brunch and draws a big crowd every day.
Chef Aidan Jackson takes a creative approach to classic morning dishes and uses top ingredients from local suppliers including Northern Rye. You can enjoy delights such as Jalapeno eggs royale, Shakshuka, French toast and unreal pancake stacks.
Favourites are the rich Beef shin ragu on toasted sourdough with tangy salsa verde and a fried egg and the indulgent Braised ham hock with sautéed field mushrooms, buttery scrambled eggs and smooth hollandaise sauce on toasted sourdough. The full English breakfast is also hard to beat.
It’s essential to find some room for Aidan’s signature pancake stacks loaded with dulce de leche, bananas, chantilly cream and chocolate shavings. They also come in half portions (still monster-sized) so you can share some for dessert.
Gosforth folk can now also get a piece of the breakfast action at newly-opened Little Aidan’s – it’s petite but just as yummy!
Cook House
Local favourite Cook House has long been the crown jewel of Newcastle’s Ouseburn Valley and now it has the ultimate recognition from the critics, gaining a prestigious Michelin Plate in 2021.
Chef, author and restaurateur Anna Hedworth started Cook House in two converted shipping containers, after leaving a career in architecture for the kitchens of London’s Rochelle Canteen and Quo Vadis and hosting regular supper clubs.
Cook House now has a permanent home at Foundry Lane Studios, set across two floors with a provisions stores, garden and sunny outdoor terrace. It has a cosy, rustic feel with a striking wall mural, dried flowers and a roaring wood burner. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Cook House’s menu follows the seasons and highlights the best local produce.
We visited for brunch and were impressed with the sizzling skillet of Baked eggs in cream with ham and curried leeks with sourdough toast – so unique and satisfying. We were also wowed by the lighter yet heavenly Spiced pancakes with apple compote, sultanas, almond crumble, Greek yoghurt and honey.
We washed them all down with a flat white and fresh mint tea and they also make home-made shrubs, cordials and syrups.
Kiln
Another Ouseburn gem is Kiln, an all-day cafe, bar and restaurant set in a former car garage just moments away from the canal. As the name reveals, Kiln also houses its own ceramics studio, where potter Jun Rhee creates pots, vases and tableware for clients including the UK’s top Michelin-starred restaurants.
Kiln’s dishes are a mix of Middle Eastern and Northumbrian cuisine – creative and richly-spiced, using ingredients by top local producers and bread made in-house. The menu changes frequently, but we can highly recommend the delicious Flat iron steak with fried egg, salsa verde and sourdough and Sea bass fillet open sandwich with cherry tomatoes and garlic aioli.
The Kiln team have also recently opened Patina, an ambitious restaurant, cafe, bakery and arts space in Edinburgh – one to add to your list for any Scotland trips.
BURDS
BURDS is one of the best places to enjoy brunch in Jesmond, whether it’s on the glorious, leafy sun terrace in the summer or in the cosy Gatehouse cafe during the colder months. Chef Ross Sinclair’s dishes are always super indulgent and generously-sized, using the best local produce from the likes of Charlotte’s Butchery.
Everything we’ve tried at BURDS has been next level, so you can’t go wrong with the Eggs Benny, an induldent grilled cheese with cherry cola ham, shakshuka or my personal favourite, The Muff – a luxury McMuffin dupe with a homemade pork patty, crispy bacon, golden hash brown, fried egg, American cheese and ketchup on a toasted English muffin.
If you have any room left, the counter is filled with delicious baked goods from Pet Lamb Patisserie and nearby Cake Stories.
Smoke & Sear Kitchen
Smoke & Sear Kitchen started as a local food truck and then took up residency at the Quayside’s HWKRMRKT. Its new home on Heaton Road may look like a cute caff with wood-panelled decor, but it is in fact a temple to live-fire cooking over wood and charcoal.
High-welfare meat is sourced from legendary butcher Block + Bottle, just a few doors down, and given the Smoke & Sear treatment in a Josper charcoal oven and wood-fired smoker.
I was wowed by the Steak and eggs – strips of flat iron steak with fried eggs, sweet fire-roasted red pepper sauce and house green sauce. Equally delicious is the Steak supper – strips of bavette steak in signature Newcastle Brown Ale marinade with garlic butter, apple slaw, salsa verde, remoulade sauce and home-made triple-cooked fries. A side of crunchy, salty home-made hash browns is also a must, to scoop up all of those yummy home-made sauces.
Beyond steak, the menu is full of tempting dishes like coconut prawn sandwich, Toon pastrami on Northern Rye sourdough, beer-braised short rib burger and mac ‘n’ cheese bombs.
Harvest Canteen
Harvest is a chilled out coffee house with plenty of outdoor seating on St George’s Terrace in Jesmond. It’s the flagship cafe from Ouseburn Coffee Company (OCC), whose expertly roasted coffee can be found at food markets around the north east, as well as the coffee bar in Fenwick Food Hall.
The Harvest all-day breakfast and brunch menu isn’t huge, but you can find poached eggs on toasted sourdough with a range of toppings, Avocado smash, toasted crumpets, honey granola with yoghurt and berries and scrumptious pancakes with fresh strawberries, ice cream and chocolate sauce.
Cafe 21 at Fenwick
Since opening in 2006, Cafe 21 at Fenwick has been known as Newcastle’s ‘fashion cafe’, tucked away in the corner of the department store’s French Salon, among rails filled with Roksanda, Ganni, Stine Goya and Proenza Schouler.
It’s the more casual daytime offering from Chef Terry Laybourne’s popular restaurant group, which includes the Quayside’s acclaimed 21, St. Vincent and The Broad Chare pub (with a Michelin Bib Gourmand), plus Porterhouse Butcher and Grill and Saltwater Fish Company at Fenwick Food Hall.
They do a fantastic, authentic Croque Madame loaded with gooey cheese, bechamel and honey-roast ham, served with a dressed green salad and cornichons. I usually order it with a side of crispy French fries and a pot of Rington’s Earl Grey Tea. It’s also worth trying the delicious truffle burger, steak frites or the signature Cheddar cheese and spinach souffle.
Flore
For the prettiest brunch in town, look no further than Flore. This dreamy cafe and patisserie in historic Central Arcade has a Parisian feel with pastel pink interiors, hand-painted wall murals, marble counters and chequered floors.
Brunch is varied and generously sized with fluffy foccaccia sandwiches, breakfast tacos and Eggs Benny with pink Hollandaise and Dutch baby pancakes. There’s also an extensive range of colourful lattes and hot chocolate to go with colourful layer cakes, brownies and cookies.
Don’t miss out on the yummy Sirloin steak and fried eggs with caramelised onions and chimichurri on sourdough.
Quay Ingredient
There’s nothing better than a hearty breakfast at local institution Quay Ingredient followed by a brisk walk along the Quayside. It’s a small, cheerful coffee house nestled under the Tyne Bridge, offering well-priced brunch dishes with a few surprises.
The Full English is an epic feast with all of the fixings and should only be attempted if you bring your appetite. Otherwise, go for a traditional Geordie stottie filled with bacon and a fried egg, Dutch pancakes or their creative versions of Eggs Benedict with tempura tiger prawns or confit duck and plum Hollandaise.
Be sure to leave some room for a gooey, molten Nutella brownie, it’s definitely worth it!
Grey Owl
You really can’t miss Grey Owl, as its numerous glass chandeliers bathe elegant Grey Street in a warm, golden glow. This stunning cafe and cocktail bar in a former jewellers next to the Theatre Royal is the little sister of nearby high-end restaurant Hibou Blanc. It’s a stylish spot to start the day over a tasty breakfast, refuel during a shopping trip or enjoy after-work Negronis with a charcuterie board and fresh oysters.
The brunch menu is quite concise, but we found the Eggs Benedict and Turkish Eggs to be high quality and perfectly cooked.
Have you been to any of these Newcastle brunch spots? Where are your favourite places?