Tapas is always a good idea, especially when it’s as good as this! BiBo Dani García opened last summer at the new Mondrian Shoreditch on Curtain Road and it’s already become known for its authentic Spanish dishes and cool atmosphere.
BiBo is a vibrant, casual-luxe concept from three Michelin-starred Andalusian chef Dani García, with outposts in Madrid, Ibiza, Marbella, Tarifa and Doha. It pays homage to time-honoured Andalusian recipes and cooking techniques with a few touches of aromatic Japanese flavours.
Walking down the stairs of the bright, contemporary Mondrian, you immediately feel the warmth of BiBo with its gorgeous terracotta walls, dimmed lighting and breezy Med vibes. The Spanish influences run through the stylish interiors with sculptures of shoals of fish, rustic decorative wall plates and plush brown leather banquettes.
The spacious open-plan restaurant features an open kitchen where you can watch the chefs at work, as well as a central island bar and high tables for a quick bite. There’s also a leafy, deep red-hued courtyard and private dining room, where you can imagine having the most fabulous flamenco party or romantic wedding reception.
BiBo can get lively on the weekend with DJ sets and flowing sangria (it is Shoreditch, after all), but our Monday lunchtime visit was chilled out and thoroughly relaxing. I was particularly drawn to the express lunch set menu, as every dish was something I definitely would have chosen – when does that ever happen?
We were seated at a comfy booth and ordered drinks while waiting for the plates to arrive without any effort or decisions required. It was then that I noticed the attention to details like embroidered linen napkins, ice cold frosty glasses, stunning tableware and a buzzing soundtrack at just the right level. BiBo is already an established brand and its confidence shows.
Everything is made to share and our table quickly filled up with five fantastic dishes. Croquetas de jamón ibérico were gooey, dense and generously filled with the finest coating of crispy breadcrumbs, topped with a slice of top quality Jabugo jamón ibérico (from the Huelva region of Andalusia).
Gambas fritas with spicy mayo were plump and juicy, served piping hot with fresh coriander in the lightest, crunchy filo pastry, almost like delicate wontons.
Patatas bravas are a staple of any good tapas lunch, but their success depends on the quality and abundance of the sauce and the crispiness of the potatoes. Dani García’s were the most interesting I’ve tried, as they were fried with an extra-crunchy coating, almost like breadcrumbs, and topped with a luscious, piquant tomato sauce, velvety aioli and finely chopped chives.
Oxtail brioche with salsa bull and pulled oxtail stew was an absolute treat. The steamed brioche buns were ever so fluffy and moreish, packed with rich, tender slow-cooked meat and a generous dollop of smooth, glossy salsa bull emulsion.
It’s hard to believe that our star dish would be a big plate of greens, but there was something truly magical about the Broccolini and kale salad with black sesame mayo and peanuts. It was just so tangy, refreshing and umami-rich with a smokiness from the charred broccolini, crunchy textures from the nuts and a slight chilli kick.
Lunch ended on a high with the most decadent Caramelised rice pudding for dessert. The sauce was so luxurious and creamy, scented with vanilla and orange blossom, and the bomba rice had a refined, pearl-like texture. It was finished with a golden brûlée crust that cracked rather satisfyingly.
BiBo has to be one of the best new hotel restaurants in London and the express lunch menu is certainly generous and well-composed. If you’re already a fan of the city’s well-established tapas bars like Barrafina, Brindisa and José Pizarro, you won’t be disappointed here. I’m already really tempted to return for the lobster paella, more tapas and a slice of Basque cheesecake.
The BiBo Shoreditch express lunch menu is priced at £25 per person and is available between 12pm and 2.30pm everyday. For more information and booking, visit: www.grupodanigarcia.com
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