tulip bulbs

Coralie Aude Grassin hunts down Amsterdam’s top ‘must sees’, away from the museums and galleries:

Going to Amsterdam for a weekend? It is the most wonderful place to walk around – get lost in the cutest streets, walk around the canals, switch from buzzing atmospheres to oh-so-quiet neighbourhoods…

1- Classic advice but the best one to be part of the crowd: rent a bike for 10€ a day. You will find a wide variety of cycling accessories in the shops to personalise yours back home…get inspired by the thousands on your way.

2- Fall for Gouda.  It may have sound like a boring cheese when you saw it last in a supermarket but you will be amazed at the flavours: pesto, cumin, fennel…even olive and rocket!  Go for more mature ones if you love nutty tastes.  Cheese shops always have samples ready for you to taste the whole range.

3- Wander through the flower market, the best place to buy bulbs from tulips to amaryllis. The airport will only offer a small choice. Such a nice memory when you will see the blooms in your garden too.

4- Look out for the gorgeous art deco gems like the Tuschinski cinema. It was meant to look as glorious as an opera would: you can ask for love seats or a private box, where you can even enjoy a small lunch and a glass of wine.  Premières and special events are regularly held there.  Look out for the stars, who knows!

5- No need to spend a fortune on food.  Bars propose a variety of cheap local tapas such as those creamed meatballs (Bitterballen) for a few euros. Another classic in winter would be Erwtensop, a rich pea soup. We tried a plate of mature gouda, which was served with mustard – a surprising alliance.

You will also find Stroopwafels, a thin waffle sandwich filled with caramel.  Indonesian restaurants are also very present and are considered part of the national cuisine – same as Indian food in England.

6- Chocoholics just have to stop at Puccini Bomboni.  This elegant boutique has amazing chocolate bites in a rainbow of flavours: walnut, cranberry, cinnamon, tea and honey.  The cocoa is top quality, the flavours linger on your tongue and you will be dreaming of those when back home.

7- Step back in time in Wynand Fockink.  The timeless bar opened in 1679 and hasn’t changed much since.  Mix with the locals, admire the setting – wooden from floor to ceiling – and choose from their selection of 60 liquors.

Some are little poems in themselves, such as the rose-almond-orange one. Others are traditional – the Kraamannijs was made with star anise and given to mothers who had just given birth.  It comes in blue for a baby boy, pink for a girl.

The aperitifs are served in glasses that open up and allow the liquid to make a kind of bubble on top.  You are meant to slurp the first gulp when it is still on the counter.  Even better, they are only €2.50 each and you can buy bottles of your favourite flavour to take home.

8- Find peace at the Begijnhof – a convent dating back to the medieval times. The houses look like minute doll houses with impeccable gardens.  Sit in the courtyard to enjoy a ray of sunshine – it’s difficult to believe the high street is just a minute away…

9- Walk through Chinatown to discover the largest Buddhist temple in Europe – such a change of atmosphere after the traditional Dutch architecture.

10- Take some time to enjoy the tulips outside the city at Keukenhof – an unforgettable experience.  Hundreds of varieties will charm you. They remind me of the rose in St Exupery’s The Little Prince.

So pretty, they must have taken great care in unfolding each petal, as if it were an haute-couture dress.  This outing is fantastic with children as there are plenty of spaces for them to run, a mini farm and a playground.

Amsterdam proves a very poetic and romantic city.  We only used public transports from and to the hotel, as the ballads really are a treat.  Do not hesitate to ask the locals for help if you do feel lost – they probably are the kindest in Europe.  Plan three days rather than two as there is so much to be enjoyed!

Coralie Aude Grassin writes the blog, Tea Time in Wonderland.

All photos by Coralie Aude Grassin.