It’s the third day into London Fashion Week and the majority of the fashion industy has swapped vertiginous heels and blazers for flat military boots and wool coats. Perhaps the sartorial shift had something to do with swapping Sunday morning in bed with coffee and the Sunday Times Style for a typically delayed show or the pouring rain outside, but the coquettish Doii Paris show quickly lifted everyone’s spirits.
This is the first time that Korean designer Doii Lee is showing at London Fashion Week and her show was arguably one of the prettiest, among a sea of asymmetric panel dresses.
Doii’s Autumn/Winter 10-11 collection was inspired by her favourite Russian fairytale, Babushka, and the folklore influences are present on all of the striking, bohemian pieces.
The first part of the collection was all about bold rose print dresses with translucent sequins, coats trimmed with white faux fur, rose covered headpieces and those shoes! These gorgeous cherry red, platform courts with printed silk ankle-tie were awarded their own post on The Fashion Scout daily blog, as they really are just so stunning!
The models looked impossibly fresh, with tumbling curls, red lips, rosy cheeks and dewy skin – no slicked-back androids there!
The Doii Paris collection reminds me very much of Blumarine’s colour-bursting prints, Moschino’s bold romanticism and KENZO’s crafted, patchwork-inspired detailing.
The purpose of the digital prints is to tell a story and Doii does this with playing cards, winter landscapes, skulls and even bottles of wine. It is a style also seen in Romeo Pires’ Spring/Summer 10 collection, which featured a collage of checkered flags, skeletons and apples.
The second part of the collection focused on an adorable coral, red and turquoise print depicting birds and monsters. The whimsical print featured on very feminine and wearable trench coats, romantic ruffle dresses and a full-length gown.
Next up was more detailed, abstract digital prints in floaty silk dresses and an Eastern kimono-style shift dresses panelled with grey jersey.
Then came the lace – a delicate lace party dress with a structured bodice (very Daisy Lowe), a lace wool two-tone coat and a 50s minimal lace dress with bell sleeves and contrasting printed detailing.
Metallics also featured with this dainty drop-waisted, printed dress with soft-spun gold cuffs and waistband and translucent sequins. Wool coats also got the Doii treatment, with colourful fabric-covered buttons, polka dot lapels, faux fur trims and printed tie-belts.
The show culminated with a model dressed in a black fur and embroidered print coat with an oversized fringed bonnet – very elegant, old world Parisian. I wonder if Doii took inspiration from that other stylish Parisian, the inimitable Diane Pernet, with her signature black veil…
Doii Lee graduated with BA Hons in Fashion Design and Knitwear from Central St Martins in 2002 and soon after started her career with John Galliano in Paris. The next year, she was approached by Antoni Marras, the new art director at KENZO, and worked for KENZO Défilé Studio.
She presented the first collection of Doii Paris during Paris Fashion Week, October 2006 and is now based in London. Doii’s work is so intricate, exquisitely tailored and optimistic, which is a real breath of fresh air this season!
* All photos by Chérie City