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		<title>Paris Haute Couture S/S 10: Futuristic vs Historical</title>
		<link>http://cheriecity.co.uk/2010/02/07/paris-haute-couture-ss-10-futuristic-vs-historical/</link>
		<comments>http://cheriecity.co.uk/2010/02/07/paris-haute-couture-ss-10-futuristic-vs-historical/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 07 Feb 2010 23:06:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>cheriecity</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Designers]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[valentino]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Valentino red dress]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://cheriecity.co.uk/?p=1296</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[At the bi-annual couture shows in Paris, the collections and sometimes the models wearing them gets everyone gossiping, but this year it was 13-year old fashion blogger Tavi Gevinson, who was ruffling feathers with her ill-advised piece of Stephen Jones &#8230; <a href="http://cheriecity.co.uk/2010/02/07/paris-haute-couture-ss-10-futuristic-vs-historical/">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>At the bi-annual couture shows in Paris, the collections and sometimes the models wearing them gets everyone gossiping, but this year it was 13-year old fashion blogger <a href="http://tavi-thenewgirlintown.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Tavi Gevinson</a>, who was ruffling feathers with her ill-advised piece of Stephen Jones headwear &#8216;obscuring&#8217; the view on the front row of Dior.</p>
<p>As Tavi smartly pointed out, she is about half the size of the average fashion ed/celeb and the offending bow was shot with holes. Would any editor dare to strip <a href="http://dianepernet.typepad.com/" target="_blank">Diane Pernet</a> of her signature raised veil? <em>Non</em>, <em>pas du tout</em>!  So really, the crux of the matter is that the teen fashion prodigy has fast-tracked her way to the privileges that editors have spent years trying to cultivating and maintain and surprisingly enough, they don&#8217;t like it!</p>
<p><a href="http://cheriecity.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/tavi1.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1380" title="Tavi" src="http://cheriecity.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/tavi1.jpg" alt="" width="376" height="529" /></a></p>
<p>Couture is an industry clawing on by its teeth, so it&#8217;s no surprise that designers are consciously trying to appeal to a younger market &#8211; hence Tavi at Dior, Lady Gaga sporting Armani Privé and Valentino&#8217;s woodland neon nymphs.</p>
<p>The direction of the house of Valentino has been somewhat vague since the departure of Valentino Garavani.  His second set of predecessors and former Valentino accessories designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli began their assault on a new look brand with their romantic, sculptural A/W 09 collection, but this season they&#8217;ve gone wild and thrown the rulebook to the wind.</p>
<p>Valentino&#8217;s elegant woman has put her prim little suit in storage and turned into a to a cyber partygirl with a new best mate, Alice Dellal.  Blush and nude shades are carried over from the Autumn/Winter ready-to-wear collection, but this time they&#8217;re set off with flashes of fluorescent pink and yellow and silver (with more than a nod to Pam Hogg&#8217;s panelled catsuits).</p>
<p><a href="http://cheriecity.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/couture-valentino-dellal.png"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1297" title="couture valentino dellal" src="http://cheriecity.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/couture-valentino-dellal.png" alt="" width="381" height="600" /></a></p>
<p>Underneath the neon and sparkle, there are whispers of classic Valentino, with beautiful draping, volume and embellishment, but the pair really stick the knife in with their interpretation of  the iconic &#8216;Valentino red dress&#8217;.  There are three red dresses in the collection, the most outrageous being a red leather mini dress with waves of leather ruffles.</p>
<p>The sheer visors and &#8216;exotic bird&#8217; make-up seem to reference Avatar and the models certainly have an eco-warrior vibe.  This unashamed attempt to appeal to a younger, &#8216;new money&#8217; crowd hasn&#8217;t gone unnoticed, and their new rock &#8216;n&#8217; roll image has sent shockwaves through Valentino&#8217;s clique.</p>
<p>Valentino&#8217;s partner Giancarlo Giammetti labelled the collection a &#8216;ridiculous circus&#8217; and told <a href="http://www.wwd.com/" target="_blank">WWD</a> that both he and Valentino &#8220;are always supportive of the designers of Valentino, even if we don’t approve of their effort to be cool at all costs.&#8221;</p>
<p><a href="http://cheriecity.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/couture-val-done.png"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1302" title="Valentino Couture" src="http://cheriecity.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/couture-val-done.png" alt="" width="438" height="250" /></a></p>
<p>A polar opposite collection was John Galliano&#8217;s historical, equestrian collection that looked back to the work of Belle Epoque designer Charles Lamb, who was also the inspiration for Christian Dior&#8217;s New Look collection in 1947.</p>
<p>Galliano cracked the whip, as models were sent down the catwalk in Edwardian riding jackets with nipped-in waists and peplums, checked skirts with bustles and top hats with veils.  Next up was cocktail hour with the most beautiful jewel coloured, gathered chiffon skirts, embellished jackets, halter-neck bustier shirts and draped dresses in Duchesse satin.</p>
<p><a href="http://cheriecity.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/dior-couture.png"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1375" title="Dior" src="http://cheriecity.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/dior-couture.png" alt="" width="405" height="609" /></a></p>
<p>For evening wear, it was all about the most incredible ball gowns and Galliano found inspiration with &#8216;The Gibson Girls&#8217;, the illustrated feminine ideals at the turn of the century.  There were delicately structured satin bodices with voluminous, sculptural skirts in exquisite fabrics and a colour palette including dusky pink, raspberry, petrol, mauve and ice blue.</p>
<p>You can tell that Galliano lives for creating couture and the colours, craftsmanship and historical references make his shows the most anticipated of all.  Suzy Menkes acknowledged the beauty and emotion of the collection, but suggested that &#8220;it would be a fine thing if Mr. Galliano could just once make the starting point of Dior couture not fashion’s sweet memories but a clean sheet of paper on which he writes 2010.&#8221;</p>
<p><a href="http://cheriecity.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/dior-couture-shot.png"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1376" title="Dior couture" src="http://cheriecity.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/dior-couture-shot.png" alt="" width="488" height="250" /></a></p>
<p>It&#8217;s interesting that designers who have been at the helm of Valentino for just over two seasons should cut away from the house&#8217;s heritage so significantly, while Galliano, who has made Dior his own since his arrival in 1996, still references Christian Dior&#8217;s most prominent collections like an old friend.</p>
<p>With rejuvenated houses such as Balmain, Givenchy and Balenciaga excelling commercially but losing part of their original identity (plus the closure of Christian Lacroix), I would personally drape myself in raspberry tulle in support of Galliano&#8217;s nostalgia over a label who is in the painful midst of a personality crisis.</p>
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		<title>From the catwalk to Hackney&#8230;</title>
		<link>http://cheriecity.co.uk/2009/11/17/from-the-catwalk-to-hackney/</link>
		<comments>http://cheriecity.co.uk/2009/11/17/from-the-catwalk-to-hackney/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 01:58:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>cheriecity</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Accessories]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://cheriecity.wordpress.com/?p=536</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Inspired by Burberry&#8217;s new &#8216;social networking site&#8217;, Art of the Trench, I met up with my Italian friend Cristina for breakfast and a long-overdue trip to the Burberry Factory Outlet at Hackney Central (ah, the luxury of Bond Street shopping &#8230; <a href="http://cheriecity.co.uk/2009/11/17/from-the-catwalk-to-hackney/">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Inspired by <a href="http://uk.burberry.com/" target="_blank">Burberry&#8217;s</a> new &#8216;social networking site&#8217;, <a href="http://artofthetrench.com" target="_blank">Art of the Trench</a>, I met up with my Italian friend Cristina for breakfast and a long-overdue trip to the Burberry Factory Outlet at Hackney Central (ah, the luxury of Bond Street shopping just five minutes away).</p>
<p>Having heard rumours on the net about Burberry disciples hunting out jackets for a mere £80, we had high expectations and fully intended to emerge dressed like the slightly smug, <a href="http://thesartorialist.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Sartorialist</a>-snapped hipsters on the site.</p>
<p><a href="http://cheriecity.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/burberry-art.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-545" title="burberry art" src="http://cheriecity.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/burberry-art.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="751" /></a></p>
<p>The outlet is like a shining fashion beacon, almost temple-like, in the middle of a particularly non-descript part of Hackney. On arrival, we were asked to put all of our world belongings (apart from our purses, conveniently) in the lockers at the entrance. Usually I&#8217;d be horrified at the thought of being separated from my keys, phone and other handbag essentials, but it actually lent to more efficient browsing and I knew my possessions would be safe under the watchful eye of the burly security guards and stern Italian lady on the door.</p>
<p>Our hearts leapt when greeted by a large, checked, although slightly hideous bag at the front of the store, which was just £149.  We were ready to scoop up some of the more tasteful pieces, however, the so-called bargain was more of a mirage than a taste of things to come. The bags that you&#8217;d actually want to have on your arm, from the runway collections, were priced between £300 and £700, although this was a mighty discount from the original £1000+.</p>
<p>Discounts range from a shy 20% up to a massive 70%.  Cristina found a gorgeous silk and net cocktail dress in either brown or red that was reduced from £1230 to £120!</p>
<p><a href="http://cheriecity.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/burberry-shoes.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-546" title="burberry shoes" src="http://cheriecity.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/burberry-shoes.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="331" /></a></p>
<p>Burberry tend to go for one style of shoe for the catwalk shows, and low and behold, I spotted the black patent leather heels with ruched straps from the Autumn/Winter 08 show and the olive green lace-ups from the Spring/Summer 09 collection, all gracing the tootsies of models like Agy, Daisy, Irina and Sasha.</p>
<p>My tops picks of the trip included a delicate, iridescent silver mac for £150, some studded/warrior leather gloves for £89 and some incredible black lace-up, calf-lenth boots for just £200. Cristina hunted out a gorgeous silk and net cocktail dress in chocolate brown or berry red that was reduced from £1230 to £120!</p>
<p><a href="http://cheriecity.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/burberry-mac.png"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-538" title="burberry mac" src="http://cheriecity.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/burberry-mac.png" alt="" width="388" height="611" /></a></p>
<p>There are some more affordable items like perfume gift sets from £29, checked wool scarves from £69 and a selection of purses and jewellery, including the square warrior cuff from last summer.  The great thing about the Burberry outlet is that there are timeless, investment pieces that you buy for a snip of the price and can keep forever.  The prices aren&#8217;t exactly cheap, but if you&#8217;re in the market for one excellent quality bag or trench, then you can upgrade from high end high street to luxury for just a little bit extra.</p>
<p><a href="http://cheriecity.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/burberry-boots.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-542" title="burberry boots" src="http://cheriecity.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/burberry-boots.jpg" alt="" width="286" height="426" /></a></p>
<p>The outlet doesn&#8217;t offer refunds or exchanges, so make sure you&#8217;ve tried on your purchase, that there are no visible production faults and most of all, that you really love it.  It can be quite easy to kid yourself into liking the best of the pile in the name of a bargain! Come armed with Christmas money and scour the clearance rails with a fine tooth comb for the real discounts.</p>
<p>Burberry Factory Outlet, 29-53 Chatham Place, Hackney, London, E9 6LP</p>
<p>Opening hours: Monday &#8211; Saturday 10am-6pm, Sunday 11am-5pm.</p>
<p>How to get there:  Overground: Hackney Central   Tube: Bethnal Green + 106/254 bus to Hackney Town Hall or 20 minutes walk.</p>
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