south of France | cheriecity.co.uk

The Best Things To Do in Aix-en-Provence

August 15, 2017 by cheriecity

Aix-en-Provence is the most heavenly place to spend a lazy summer break. With bountiful rustic markets, charming cobbled streets and the scent of lavender in the air, there’s a lot to love about the slow-paced Provençal life.

Whether you’re visiting the Bouches-du-Rhône region for one of the many summer arts and music festivals, taking a day trip from nearby Marseille or simply nourishing your soul with delicious food, wine and views, here are a few things you must see in Aix-en-Provence…

SEE:

Outdoor Markets

One of the best things about a trip to Aix-en-Provence is its almost daily outdoor markets. The leafy squares of the old town overflow with the most colourful and ripe fruit and vegetables, local cheeses and saucissons, pungent spices, fresh seafood and even juicy, golden poulet roti with fat-roasted potatoes.

Other markets offer rare antiques, bric-a-brac, floaty embroidered cotton holiday clothes, hand-made lavender beauty products and of course flowers plucked from nearby fields. To get the best produce, arrive early and fill your panier before enjoying lunch on the terrace.

Atelier de Cézanne

A pilgrimage up the steep Lauve hill to Cézanne’s studio is a must when visiting Aix-en-Provence. Still intact with all of his furniture and work tools, the studio provides a rare glimpse into the private life of the ‘father of modern art’.

Cézanne spent the last four years of his life painting in this peaceful studio, climbing the hill each day from his house on rue Boulegon. It was here that he created masterpieces such as Grandes Baigneuses, overlooking views of fig and olive trees and the Verdon canal.

Hôtel de Caumont

Dedicate some time to exploring the aristocratic Mazarin district, beginning at the stunning Hotel de Caumont. This exquisite 18th century mansion was restored to its former glory in 2010 by Culturespaces and now runs as an art centre, hosting two exhibitions each year dedicated to great names in art (its film on Cézanne is shown daily). Currently on view is a major review of the French impressionist Sisley (until 15th October).

A perk of visiting the art centre is the exquisite Cafe Caumont, where you can enjoy a light lunch or tea and cake in one of the many pastel-hued salons. The elegant terrace also hosts regular jazz concerts throughout the summer, best enjoyed with a glass of rosé in hand.

Musée Granet

Housed in a refined 17th century building in the Mazarin district, Musée Granet features a diverse collection of over 600 paintings and sculptures. It also hosts major art exhibitions focusing on the 20th century, from Henri Cueco to American Icons.

Visit before the end of September to see new exhibition An Art Lovers Collection: Galerie Jeanne Bucher Jaeger Since 1925, featuring artists such as Picasso, Braque, Kandinsky and Giacometti.

Château La Coste

Drive just 25 minutes from Aix into the countryside and you will find Château La Coste, a magnificent winery and art centre. It features over 500 acres of sprawling vineyards punctuated with sculptures by some of the world’s leading contemporary artists, who were invited to react to the landscape and create.

A two-hour art and architecture walking tour offers the chance to view works by the likes of Jean Nouvel, Alexander Calder, Frank Gehry, Richard Serra and Tracey Emin.

At the centre is a striking minimalist glass building designed by Japanese architect Tadao Ando. Guarded by Louise Bourgeois’ imposing Crouching Spider sculpture, the centre is home to a bookshop, the fine dining Restaurant Francis Mallmann and the more casual Tadao Ando Restaurant.

The terrace cafe is the most joyful spot, where we enjoyed a simple and beautiful lunch of rocket, parmesan and pine nut salad, home-made quiche and fresh baguette followed by delicious sorbets and ice cream. Of course, a trip wouldn’t be complete without sampling the exquisite Château La Coste rosé, which was so refreshing, crisp and bursting with fruit.

EAT:

Angelina

For delicious, homely Italian food al fresco, head to local favourite Angelina. Go for light bruschetta, pesto pasta, Provençal specialities such as tripe and stuffed peppers or my choice of a piping hot lasagne straight from the oven.

It’s the perfect old town spot to sit and watch the world go by and is conveniently-located for Aix’s many music venues.

Marie-Georgette

If you can find this gem of a restaurant, hidden away off the Cours Mirabeau (it took me around half an hour and lots of asking for directions), you will be rewarded with a fantastic lobster roll and skin-on fries.

It takes food inspiration from New York and London and tends to attract a clued-up crowd looking for something a little different. You might even be tempted to dine here more than once!

La Tarte Tropézienne

The Tarte Tropézienne was created by Alexandre Micka in 1955, celebrating Brigitte Bardot while she was filming And God Created Woman in Saint-Tropez. It’s a light and fluffy brioche filled with vanilla creme and topped with sugar crumble – a real holiday treat.

Have you been to Aix-en-Provence? Where are your favourite Provençal hotspots?

Eurostar fares start at £99 for Marseille (from £199 in Standard Premier). For more information and booking, visit: www.eurostar.com

Chérie City was a guest of Eurostar and Bouches-du-Rhône Tourist Board

All photos by Chérie City

Hotels

Looking Ahead to 2016 Travels

December 31, 2015 by cheriecity

While some years can feel like months of simple coasting, 2015 was a significant year for me, with some blissful highs and a few lows that are now resolved. I don’t always like to categorise and evaluate my life by years, but it is worth stopping to reflect on everything we have to be thankful as a new beginning is on the horizon.

But let’s get the drama out of the way first, because if you’ve had any recent dealings with the ridiculousness that is the London rental market, you will surely share our frustrations. For half of 2015, there was a constant dark cloud hovering over us, with the threat of having to leave our first home together (where we’ve lived since 2008), as our landlord was selling up. Cue months of living on edge and in limbo, but finally, a new buy-to-let landlord meant we were able to stay in our little Hackney nest and now travel plans can resume, knowing that all is well at home.

Positive moments in 2015 were work successes for both of us, seeing old friends and making new ones, and getting engaged in our spiritual home of Paris. So, looking back on the year, here are a few of my favourite travel moments of 2015 and a peek at the exciting things that 2016 has in store…

Costa Navarino

My first trip to Greece was an epic one, staying at the beautiful south-west Peloponnese eco resort, Costa Navarino. It was one of my favourite press trips, with the best possible travel companions, fantastic dining, breathtaking scenery and magical sunsets. If you’re already looking ahead to a summer break, Costa Navarino should be at the top of your list.

Berlin

It had been a while since I visited Berlin, so I was excited to head back and see how much it had changed over the years. I loved exploring the hip neighbourhood of Mitte and strolling around the leafy Tiergarten. Highlights were staying at the majestic Hotel Adlon Kempinski and discovering foodie delights at NENI, Yumcha Heroes and Princess Cheesecake.

Aix-en-Provence and Marseille

In the summer, I took a trip on the Eurostar to the south of France to explore beautiful Aix-en-Provence and the neighbouring port city of Marseille. Aix is a really magical place and I loved strolling around the markets and visiting Cezanne’s studio, the Hotel Caumount art centre, the American Icons exhibition at the Granet Museum and taking a trip into the countryside to the must-see Chateau La Coste.

I was also pleased to revisit Marseille and really explore the historic Panier and hip Cours Julien districts, enjoy the evening charm of the Old Port and spot some of France’s best street art.

The Cotswolds

This year, I managed to visit the Cotswolds for the first time – twice in the space of a few months, in fact. My first jaunt was to the ila spa barn to experience the new Gold Cellular Age-Restore collection at the source. It was a very special afternoon, as I spent some one-on-one time with its inspirational founder Denise Leicester and get a rare glimpse of the ila world.

My second Cotswolds jaunt was for a festive shopping break, staying at the gorgeous Kings Head Cirencester. It was the perfect start to the festive season, with a heavenly Lubatti treatment in the hotel’s spa, traditional turkey roast, lashings of Michael Bublé (sadly not in person) and a magical illuminated trail through the Westonbirt Arboretum.

2016 and beyond

In February, I’ll be reunited with the Celebrity Cruises Destination Bloggers as we all take on an Ultimate Caribbean Cruise in two parts. I’ll be exploring the Caribbean with Suzanne and Elle, starting with Cartagena and then on to George Town, Grand Cayman, finishing in Fort Lauderdale. My first trip to the Caribbean with Celebrity Cruises was so memorable, so I can’t wait to catch some much-needed winter sun and see as much as I can of these dream destinations.

In the tradition of saving the best ’til last, 20th May 2016 will be the day I get married. Since Steven and I are both passionate about travel, we’ve decided to get hitched in one of our favourite places in the world…Central Park, New York! It will be an intimate ceremony with just close family and any friends who are available for a spring jaunt to New York. I’m sure there will be a few stresses to come, but so far I’ve really enjoyed planning a special trip that all of us will love and making the travel arrangements.

We will be spending two weeks in the US and will be flying with Virgin Atlantic and staying for four nights at five star Midtown hotel, The Westhouse. I chose this forward-thinking hotel (the sister of The Quin and The Refinery) for its beautiful design, great location just a few blocks from the west side of Central Park and also its innovative amenity programme.

I’m not usually a fan of resident’s fees when hotels charge for amenities that should be included, but this one offers good value with daily breakfast, afternoon tea, evening wine and canapes and a range of drinks throughout the day, as well as the usual free wifi etc. This clubhouse atmosphere at The Westhouse seems ideal for a breezy, luxurious stay in New York and I’m looking forward to relaxing on the terrace or in the den with our family over a glass of Champagne at the end of a busy day.

The next steps are writing vows with our wedding officiant Sarah, deciding on a restaurant for a low-key reception (any suggestions welcome) and planning those details such as a good photographer, hair and nail appointments, flowers and a fabulous cake. We also have an extra week after the wedding to explore the East Coast and have a few ideas of how we’d like to spend it.

Here’s to a successful and inspiring 2016. What does the new year bring for you? Where will your next travel adventures take you to?

Photos by Chérie City (hotel images by The Westhouse)

France, Hotels - Design, Hotels - Luxury

Hotel Sezz opens in Saint-Tropez

August 13, 2010 by cheriecity

The stylish, contemporary Hotel Sezz Paris opens its Côte d’Azur sister retreat, Hotel Sezz Saint-Tropez, with all the design features that you’d expect from the trend-setting group.

Set within a secluded woodland area just minutes from the Plage de Canebiers beach, Hotel Sezz Saint-Tropez is a boutique 37-room resort centred around a concrete-luxe outdoor swimming pool.

Designed by architect Jean Jacques Ory and designer Christophe Pillet, the luxury villas look out to the terrace,bringing a bit of nature and feature neutral decor with statement colours and bespoke designer furniture.

Renowned Michelin-star chef Pierre Gagnaire (of Sketch in Mayfair) heads up Colette, the hotel’s Mediterranean restaurant named after the iconic writer Sidonie-Gabrielle Colette.

The restaurant is relaxed and informal during the day but becomes one of Saint-Tropez’s most glamorous spots in the evening, with many guests starting their night with a coup at the Dom Pérignon champagne bar.

Wellness is also a priority and guests can book rejuvenating treatments at Spa Sezz, in exclusive partnership with French skincare brand, Payot. Or you could just laze around by the pool and order cocktails from the pool bar.

Hotel Sezz is just a few minutes outside Saint-Tropez and the hotel provides a shuttle bus into town, so you can go for an apéritif and a game of pétanque with the Lagerfeld crowd at Club 55.

Hotel Sezz Saint-Tropez is a member of Design Hotels and can be booked through www.designhotels.com

* Chérie City has not yet graced the sun loungers at Hotel Sezz Saint-Tropez, so cannot personally recommend this hotel. If you’re planning a trip or have already been, please come back and comment on your experience.

Bars, Beach, France, Hotels, Hotels - Budget, Hotels - Design, Hotels - Luxury

From Prado to Palm Beach, Marseille

October 24, 2009 by cheriecity

Ever since studying French hip hop and the lyrics of rap group IAM at uni, I’ve been intrigued by Marseille. So, to get some end of summer sunshine, Steven and I booked a cheap Ryanair flight and headed to the south of France for three nights.

Marseille is like an intruder on the chichi vibe of the Côte d’Azur (its nickname is planète mars) due to being a large port town with North African influences and a laid-back Mediterranean culture. It can be a bit dodgy in places (we almost got pickpocketed in the old port), but it’s ancient history and super friendly people add to its rugged charm.

vieux port

Being on a pretty tight budget, we decided to spend two nights at the moderately priced Mercure Marseille Prado and stay for the last night in the luxurious Pullman Palm Beach spa hotel.

I’m not usually a fan of big chain hotels, as they always seem to have more properties than they can cope with, but Mercure has been pretty good to me over the years.

This one was comfortable and basic (we got it for £156 for two nights and wouldn’t pay much more) but the highlight was the incredible breakfast, served on the terrace each morning. The hot selection was dubious, but there was a good selection of mini pastries, fresh baguette, local cheeses and heavenly buttermilk pancakes with maple syrup.

The location is quite far out from the centre on foot, but it took less than 1o minutes on the metro and it is just 20 minutes down the tree-lined avenue to Prado beach and our next stop, the Pullman Palm Beach.

ocean view at Pullman Palm Beach

The Pullman Palm Beach is a sleek design hotel that overlooks the famous Corniche J.F Kennedy, next to a yachting club, and has an outdoor infinity pool, jacuzzi, sauna and gym.

We stayed in a double patio room which was decorated in a subtle nautical style and featured prints by a local artist, a massive flatscreen TV and the most incredible bed that felt like you were curled up inside a marshmallow.

The bathroom had both a shower and a bathtub, bois d’orange toiletries by Roger & Gallet, some seriously fluffy bathrobes and velvety slippers – everything you need for a relaxing spa stay.

bedroom at Pullman Palm Beach

Most of the guests were business delegates and I was so tempted to gatecrash their champagne and macaroon receptions at night (I resisted, of course), but there are probably more regular travellers in the high summer. This wasn’t a bad thing though, as we almost had the pool and sauna to ourselves.

The Pullman Palm Beach is all about relaxation, so it’s very quiet and peaceful, especially in the library on the first floor, where you can read coffee table books and international newspapers in an armchair, overlooking the sea.

Library

We didn’t eat at the restaurant, although the food looked amazing, but we had a drink at the bar before going into town for dinner.

We had a Piña Colada and a Tequila Sunrise (both 12 Euros) from the classic cocktail menu, but maybe a spirit or beer would be better, as they were a bit too weak and filled with ice.

We got a massive tasting plate of olives, nuts and tapenade bruschetta with our drinks though, as well as a sunset view, so it was a great way to start the night.

Pullman at night

The best thing about the Pullman is that staff are around when you need them, but they leave you to go about your day without hassle. The spa facilities were amazing and there was no shortage of towels, sunbeds, extra toiletries and even free healthy snacks in the spa area. We were even upgraded to an ocean view room on arrival.

We got a good deal at £130 a night, as a double room at walk-in price costs upward of £300 and it was quite simply one of the best hotels I’ve ever stayed in and was worth every penny. I’m already plotting a way to return next year – I wonder if Marseille has a film festival to be reviewed?

Mercure Marseille Prado, 11 Avenue de Mazargues 13008 Marseille

Pullman Palm Beach, 200 Corniche J.F Kennedy 13007 Marseille