Gemma Slack showed her A/W 2010 collection in a presentation at Vauxhall Fashion Scout, complete with a promotional film and a live performance from Chew Lips.
For Gemma’s third collection, the silver tribal collars and oriental hats of Spring/Summer 10 have been replaced with draped gold chains and intricate facial jewellery – a collaboration between Gemma and Katie Rowland Jewellery called Rowland Vs. Slack.
Black leather panelled and sheer body con dresses continue the super heroine, gothic aesthetic, but they are less structured and certainly more wearable than last season’s rigid silver cone skirts.
For the winter season, Gemma has worked with more texture, using wool and embossed leather.
There are references to Jean-Paul Gaultier’s exaggerated femininity with the integrated suspender belt, structured bustiers and ‘pierced nipples’ holding up a layer of diaphanous chiffon.
Gemma Slack’s woman is part fierce biker girl and part elegant vamp. Many of the pieces are actually based on classic tailoring, like the asymmetric, long black dress and the sculptural tulip skirt.
The Autumn/Winter 10 collection doesn’t make such an intense impact as the last season’s but it’s the attention to details like leather-trimmed hems and the contrast between the fuzzy and smooth fabrics that really appeal.
There’s a bit of Gareth Pugh (Gemma’s one-time mentor) in the cropped jacket with an almost blow-up leather collar and the jumper with studded elbow pads echoes Ashish.
Despite the Catwoman and 80s references, Gemma Slack’s pieces are very modern and simultaneously complement and fetishise the female body. It would have been great to see the garments on female models, as the sheer panels and cut-away sections leave some styling questions. Plus, it would make the clothes look even damn sexier!
All photos: Cherie City