Dutch designer Iris Van Herpen really knows how to create an atmosphere, from the cinematic, industrial music down to the models’ other-worldly, meditative expression. The attention to detail is absolutely mesmerising.
Iris Van Herpen left a lasting impression on me from last season’s Blow Presents… show and her Autumn/Winter 10-11 collection, ‘Synesthesia’ succeeded once again in leaving me temporarily speechless.
‘Synesthesia’ describes a state of dual cognitive senses, such as hearing colour, smelling motion or feeling sound and this perplexing condition characterises Iris Van Herpen’s Autumn/Winter 10-11 collection.
The winding knots, twists and volume of the leatherwork creates a trompe l’oeil effect and manipulates the senses.
Iris Van Herpen is a true fashion architect and her sculptural garments are painstakingly intricate and beautifully crafted. She creates those long, slinky strips using metallic leather and continues to work with Ecco Leather.
The Autumn/Winter 10-11 palette centres around bronze, gold, taupe, nude and black and dark purple, with many of the garments creating a two-tone effect. Her dresses externalise the inner bodily composition while exaggerating the female form with voluminous hips, curved busts and nipped in waists.
The accompanying look of the models was lucid and clinical with bleached eyebrows, pale glossy faces and milky lips and eyes. The cloud-like angel hair was styled by James Brown and added to their look of just being hatched from a laboratory pod.
After graduating from ARTEZ Institute of Arts in 2006, Iris Van Herpen assisted Viktor & Rolf and Alexander McQueen. She’s obviously taken inspiration from both designers’ artistic concept mixed with semi-couture detailing.
Iris Van Herpen brings drama, concept and intrigue to London Fashion Week and her shows continue to be among the most fixating, intense and awe-inspiring.
* All photos by: Chérie City