Philippe Starck hotel design

A highlight of a trip to Istanbul is the fantastic food. The streets are filled with the mouthwatering aromas of delicious ocakbasi chargrilled meat, honey-drench fresh baklava and freshly-pressed pomegranate juice. Here are some top picks for eating out in Istanbul…

Antiochia

Tucked away on a side street in Asmalimescit, Antiochia is an intimate, low-key neighbourhood restaurant that offers dishes inspired by the city of Antakya in Turkey’s sourthern Hatay region.

Owned by celebrity chef Jale Balci, Antiochia attracts a hipster crowd and the interiors are as unfussy as the simple menu (just around ten meze dishes and a few kebabs). The restaurant is tiny with less than 20 covers, so we were very lucky to score a walk-in table.

We started with two amazing meze dishes – Houmous and Aubergine with Yoghurt and Garlic – served with the most delicious, seemingly unlimited, flatbread rubbed with chilli. If you’re extra peckish, or are dining with a bigger group, a mixed meze plate is a good choice (the staff tried to push us towards this).

My Chicken Shish was marinated in spices and fresh herbs, then grilled to perfection on the charcoal grill. It was served on a thin chili wrap with a fresh tomato and sumac salad, a grilled tomato and green chili. Steven’s Beef Durum Wrap was filled with tender pieces of beef, onion and grilled tomatoes with a good dose of spice.

Having already filled up on sugar with afternoon tea earlier that afternoon, we thought it best to skip dessert. However, Antiochia is the place to try some authentic Turkish sweets such as Künefe (a cheese pastry soaked in syrup) or a walnut and eggplant dessert served with home-made ice cream.

Otherwise, you could grab some baklava or mastic ice cream from nearby Istiklal Caddesi, where cafes and sweet shops are open into the late evening.

Mama Shelter Istanbul

Staying and eating at Mama Shelter Paris was one of my favourite hotel experiences, so obviously we just had to check out Mama Shelter Istanbul. Located on a side street just off the bustling Istiklal Caddesi, Mama Shelter Istanbul has all of the eccentricity and character that you’d expect from the forward-thinking brand with cool interiors by Philippe Starck.

Alain Senderens and Jérôme Banctel’s Franco-Turkish menu is full of innovative yet comforting dishes and there is also a pizza menu.

As we visited during a religious holiday, it was very quiet, however I imagine it is the place to be in Beyoglu during the summer months with the open roof terrace and weekend DJ sets. There is even a glass cabinet of musical instruments to really get the party started.

I started with a zingy Mama Lemonade (9 TL) and Steven tried a punchy Gingerapple (13 TL), which were both served long and topped with fresh apple and strawberry.

The Marinated Chicken Skewers with Carrot Puree (33 TL) was absolutely delicious. The two large skewers of chargrilled chicken breast and thigh were tender and succulent (though less spicy than others I tried in Istanbul) and I really loved the smooth, rich and tangy carrot puree.

Steven tried the Yoghurt Kebab (34 TL) – tasty chargrilled lamb patties in a spicy tomato sauce served with torn pieces of flatbread, a hot green chili and cool saffron yoghurt.

We couldn’t resist trying Mama’s Chocolate Souffle (19 TL) for dessert. Served in a mini cast iron pot, the Chocolate Souffle had a soft cake texture with a gooey, molten middle and was accompanied by vanilla ice cream and a peanut brittle crisp.

Miyako at Swissotel The Bosphorus

Miyako is a great choice for authentic Japanese food in Istanbul. I recommend starting with some Ebi Tempura and Beef Tataki, followed by teppanyaki Grilled Chicken or Beef Tenderloin. Be sure to leave some room for Chocolate Pudding with Coco Banana Sauce and a glass of Umeshu Plum Wine.

Kubbeli Saloon Tea Lounge at Pera Palace Hotel

Afternoon tea in Istanbul is an absolute must and the grand dame of tea and cake is the historic Kubbeli Saloon Tea Lounge at Pera Palace Hotel. Enjoy a fabulous buffet afternoon tea in splendid surroundings to the sounds of a live pianist.

Tea is served in elegant silver pots and the selection of exquisite cakes, sweets and biscuits is so overwhelming that it’s almost impossible to try them all (a challenge for the most die-hard afternoon tea fans).

Karaköy Lokantasi

Istanbul’s hip Karaköy neighbourhood is not to be missed and we were delighted when the brilliant concierge at Shangri-La Bosphorus Istanbul was able to secure us a reservation at the immensely popular Karaköy Lokantasi.

Owned by Aylin Okutan and Oral Kurt, and designed by Autoban, Karaköy Lokantasi is a casual, affordable eatery with the boutique guesthouse Karaköy Rooms above. The atmospheric two-floor restaurant features pretty turquoise tiles inspired by the Topkapi Palace offers traditional Turkish meze and kebabs with a contemporary approach.

We started with some Houmous, which was smooth and full of flavour, topped with fresh chick peas and mint. I was a little disappointed that they serve wholemeal sliced bread rather than traditional Turkish flatbread, but it was tasty nevertheless.

Fried Shrimps (18 TL) were plump and ever so fresh, cooked in the most delicious chili, garlic and olive oil sauce.

My Grilled Meatballs (15 TL) were tender, satisfying and nicely charred on the outside. I found the small slice of potato rather dry and uninteresting, particularly as there was no sauce or yoghurt to perk it up. Steven’s Grilled Chicken (15 TL) was juicy and smoky, marinated with spicy chili and herbs.

Service had been swift throughout, but tailed off towards the end of the meal, so we ended up missing out on the chocolate pudding. Instead, we settled for the Semolina Cake with Cream (7 TL), which was a light and grainy sponge soaked with delicious sugar syrup.

Bej Karaköy

We found ourselves back in Karaköy at lunchtime and had heard good things about the Bej Karaköy. The cosy interiors are cool and arty and it seems to attract a creative crowd taking a break from visiting the nearby art galleries.

My Chicken Schnitzel (22 TL) was very tasty, served with chunky fries and a slice of lemon. Steven’s Grilled Cheese, Pesto and Tomato Sandwich (12 TL) was tasty and simple, served with a fresh green salad and cherry tomatoes. We washed them down with some Turkish tea (6 TL) served in a small glass on a pretty blue china saucer.

Service at Bej Karaköy was unfortunately rather charmless during our visit, which I hope was a one-off, as the place itself is great.

ADA Cafe & Bookstore

We spent our last few hours in Istanbul picking up some Turkish tea, baklava and Turkish delight on the Istiklal Caddesi in Beyoglu. Having spotted ADA Cafe & Bookstore earlier in the week, we stopped there for a quick bite before heading to the airport.

ADA Cafe & Bookstore is a slick book and music store with a casual restaurant serving Turkish and international dishes.

We ordered two Turkish teas and were served quickly by the friendly, efficient staff. My Chicken Shish (21 TL) was succulent and nicely charred, served with some average potato wedges, tasty Asian style vegetables and BBQ sauce.

Steven’s ADA Cheeseburger (18 TL) was cooked Turkish style on the charcoal grill and came with American cheese, potato wedges and a fresh sweetcorn and black olive salad.

ADA Cafe & Bookstore is a handy spot in Beyoglu’s busy shopping area for a relaxing lunch or afternoon Turkish tea and cake, plus there is a selection of English language books available.

Shake Shack

Why go to Shake Shack when Istanbul does grilled meat so well? Well, Shake Shack happened to be useful when we needed something quick and easy for a very late lunch after getting lost in Sultanahmet. Shake Shack hasn’t quite yet invaded Europe at present, with outlets only in London, Moscow and Istanbul, so it’s worth visiting if you want to try the now famous New York burger.

We visited the Tünel branch on Istiklal Caddesi, just a few minutes away from our hotel, and there was no queue so we were served immediately.

As expected, our ShackBurgers pretty much the same as the others we’d tried in Manhattan and London, but there are some fun local touches such as the Pistachio in Tünel and Tramway Treat concretes.

Perhaps because of the exchange rate, but it’s also somewhat cheaper than the London branch, so it’s not a bad bet for a speedy lunch fix.

Are you a fan of authentic Turkish food? Where is your favourite dining spot in Istanbul?

All photos by Chérie City

Staycations are my one of my favourite indulgences and Sanderson is such a fabulous destination hotel that it’s easy to forget all about London and the outside world.

Sanderson is a dreamy, surreal urban resort where innovative design is matched with a cool ambiance and friendly, attentive service. Part of the petite and perfectly hip Morgans Hotel Group, Sanderson is designed by Philippe Starck and there are a number of his witty touches to discover around the hotel.

The hotel is perfectly located in the heart of London’s shopping district, just a few steps from Tottenham Court Road, however my staycation was all about pure relaxation.

Agua Spa

I started my visit in a blissful state with the hotel’s signature Milk and Honey treatment at Agua Spa. This heavenly 55 minute full body treatment consisted of a dry brush exfoliation, followed by hot honey lightly massaged into my skin and rinsed away with warm milk and flannels. My therapist then slathered on fragrant rose oil to soften my skin, followed by a light head massage. I usually go for facials or massages when visiting a spa, so it was a welcome change to try a body treatment solely to condition and moisturise my skin.

Agua Spa has a very unique design – there are no walls dividing the 14 all-white treatment rooms, only billowing white drapes. I found the quiet hum of the therapists quite relaxing, but there are iPods available to block out any sound. The changing rooms and elegant relaxation lounge are ever so luxurious but best of all are the private meditation pods where you can unwind and watch TV behind your own curtain.

Madhatter’s Tea

After my spa treatment, the indulgence continued with Sanderson’s famous Madhatter’s Tea in the tranquil Courtyard Garden. Included in the afternoon tea is a glass of Laurent-Perrier Brut NV Champagne or one of three different cocktails. I chose the refreshing Lucid Spark – Camomile infused Cariel vanilla vodka shaken with fresh apple juice and elderflower cordial – and ordered a pot of Earl Grey tea.

We were served a plate of dainty rainbow coloured finger sandwiches, followed by a pretty stand filled with layers of traditional scones served with Alain Milliat strawberry preserve and clotted cream and scrumptious cakes. Sometimes afternoon teas can be too heavy on the sweets, however Sanderson offers a modest yet generously sized trio – The Queen of Hearts Strawberry and Cream Mousse, Chocolate Opera Rabbit’s Clock and a three layer ‘Drink Me’ bottle.

The afternoon tea finishes on a fun note with a Blueberry Lollipop that turns your mouth from hot to cold and a Hazelnut Praline Ice-Cream Lollipop coated in popping candy. The friendly staff asked on arrival if we had any food allergies and I was impressed that the pastry chef made an entirely new Chocolate Opera Cake avoiding coffee, just for me.

The Room

Before dinner, we had some time to get settled in to our rooms and chill out. My Superior King Room on the fourth floor was a serene sanctuary designed entirely in white, with just a few colour highlights. At the centre of the room is the magnificent king-size sleigh bed with adjoining work desk, on a large grey rug inspired by Voltaire’s handwriting. I meant to study the rug to see if I recognised which Voltaire novel the excerpt was taken from, but I was distracted by the bed, which was covered in the most exquisite Egyptian cotton linen and was exceptionally comfortable and inviting.

The bedroom also features a large flat screen HDTV on a sliding stand, iPod docking station, powerful air-conditioning, a full-length mirror, a well-stocked minibar, two bottles of complimentary mineral water and some cool Philippe Starck hand weights for an in-room workout (I couldn’t resist trying out the weights after dinner).

The only thing missing from the beautiful room is free wifi, which you might expect as standard from a such a youthful, design-led lifestyle brand.

Behind the sheer white curtain is a large open-plan bathroom and dressing area with plenty wardrobe and storage space. Instead of a bath tub, there is a slick walk-in shower, a full set of bathroom products by Malin + Goetz and bathrobes and slippers.

Dinner & Music in the Courtyard

Later that evening, we returned to Suka for supper and Sanderson Sessions, featuring Swedish/Australian duo Say Lou Lou. Twins Miranda and Elektra Kilbey performed their stunning debut single ‘Maybe You’ and a few as yet unreleased songs to a full crowd.

Saint Lou Lou’s sound is a mix of dreamy, panoramic synth pop and sultry, wistful vocals, but there’s a real power and intensity to their performance and they have lots of stage presence. It was exciting to see such a new band play outside of the typical gig environment and their first album, which they are currently recording in London, is sure to be on everyone’s radar soon.

At night, the courtyard garden at Suka twinkles with tiny tea lights and there is something romantic and fun about dining outside (under the heated lamps, of course). With the delicious Malaysian street food menu, it felt like we were transported from central London to a cool rooftop restaurant in the Far East, reminding me of my trip to Singapore earlier this year.

The menu at Suka is so appealing that it may be hard to choose, but the best way to experience the food is by ordering 2-3 dishes plus a sayuran (side dish) per person and then sharing. We started with a glass of Champagne and then tucked into authentic Chicken Satay, Crispy Squid, Beef Rendang, Wok-fried Noodles with Lobster, Spring Rolls and many other dishes. For dessert, I finished with the Berries with White Chocolate Sauce, which was a light and reasonably healthy way to end the meal.

Cocktails in the Purple Bar

For a great cocktail to match the fragrant, aromatic dishes, I highly recommend the excellent Lychee Martini – fresh lychees shaken with Bulldog Gin, sweetened with gomme syrup. The Long Bar gets lively and busy into the late evening, but for somewhere more intimate, try a bespoke cocktail at the residents only Purple Bar or play a game of pool in the Billiards Room.

Breakfast

After an excellent sleep in the divine bed, we regrouped for breakfast at Suka. I ordered Eggs Benedict and enjoyed a few freshly-baked mini pastries from the buffet, served with English Breakfast tea and fresh apple juice. The breakfast menu offers everything you could possibly want to start the day, whether it’s a full cooked breakfast, an indulgent Champagne breakfast or a healthy option.

Before leaving, we visited the Lobby Shop curated by Luna & Curious, offering unique prints, designer jewellery, homeware and quirky souvenirs – it’s easily one of the coolest hotel gift shops in the world.

Sanderson is the perfect base for style-conscious travellers who appreciate exceptional hotel facilities as well as a great city to explore. For Londoners, the Madhatter’s Tea or an evening of Malaysian street food and cocktails at Sanderson Sessions are absolute musts.

For more information and booking, visit: www.morganshotelgroup.com

Chérie City was a guest of Sanderson

Photos by Chérie City and Sanderson

Amazing Places to Eat Out in Istanbul