London Fashion Week SS12 | cheriecity.co.uk

Designers, Fashion, London, London Fashion Week

LFW SS12: Michael Van der Ham

September 22, 2011 by cheriecity

Michael Van der Ham is one of London’s most promising new designers and the anticipation of each collection has brought an international crowd. The BFC are a constant presence at his shows (a good sign of support) and the front row was scattered with the likes of Sarah of Colette, Hamish Bowles, Anna Dello Russo and Lulu Kennedy.

A long way from the crushed velvet and jewel colours of Autumn/Winter 11-12, the new collection is a breezy mix of sheer silk-chiffon and heavier tweed and shimmering brocade in a fresh palette of azure, coral, turquoise, magenta, lavender, navy and lashings of white.

A key influence for Van der Ham was the photographer Joseph Szabo, not in relation to the style or fabric, but the kind of girl he was designing for. A teacher, photographer and author, Szabo is known for capturing the beauty and emerging sexuality of teenage girls (back in the 70s, of course).

Michael Van der Ham’s signature patchwork and collaging of vintage and luxurious fabrics with varying weights and textures is developed further. Many of the dresses feature layering and draping of contrasting fabric, like a sash, and silk skirts have the home-made look of a long silk scarf wrapped around the body and sewn up as a dress (a nod to grunge and Szabos young girls).

The A-line shift dresses and body-skimming draped skirts will be a godsend for Michael Van der Ham devotees who found Autumn/Winter’s crushed velvet pieces unforgiving.

The focus on separates continues with vibrant printed silk shirts in slim-cut trousers in cotton sateen and tailored tweed jackets. It’s a pristine, intelligent look with clean lines – feminine yet with a boyish cut.

The new prints including abstract brush strokes, confetti and feather prints are used lightly and seem to snake around the body in a very subtle way. The sheer t-shirts worn over long printed dresses

The dresses usually steal the show, but the shoes and accessories are so insanely gorgeous, they deserve a mention. I adored the two-tone felt and glittery tweed bags with a Chanel-esque woven fabric and metal chain strap.

I immediately zoomed in on the exquisite printed fabric t-bar heels and with good reason too – they were the work of Christian Louboutin! The shoes come in six variations of Michael’s collage prints and are sure to be major sellers.

Matthew Stone created a very cool 90s-inspired show soundtrack and Luke Hersheson gave the models girly grunge-luxe hair that was lightly tousled and centre-parted. The sparkling blue and lavender eye make-up and creamy, lucid skin by M.A.C gave the models a youthful radiance that was central to the look.

Michael Van der Ham’s SS12 collection could be his most commercially successful yet, as the collection is so diverse and democratic. Whether it’s fine tailoring, a multi-fabricated statement dress or a daytime print dress, Michael Van der Ham is the one to invest in for the next season.

For more info, visit: www.michaelvanderham.com

Designers, Fashion, London, London Fashion Week

LFW SS12: Mulberry at Claridges Ballroom

September 20, 2011 by cheriecity

Mulberry is always the most anticipated show of the season, not just because of the celeb quota and Mulberry-clad pooches on the front row, but because it’s a super fun experience from start to end.

This season, Mulberry took us on a mini trip to the seaside and like any good day out, there was pink lemonade and Mulberry ripple ice-cream, served from a Mulberry ice cream van by a troupe of dashing ice cream men.

The red carpet was flanked by over-sized ice cream cones and inside Claridges Ballroom was a menagerie of Mulberry-branded animal balloons that guests could take away at the end of the show.

While many designers at London Fashion Week take reference for Spring/Summer 2012 from exotic climes such as Marrakesh or the poolside parties in Miami, Mykonos and Ibiza, Mulberry’s new collection is inspired by the English seaside – even on the soggiest of days.

Creative director Emma Hill looked back to her memories of trips to the seaside and her reference points were walking along Brighton and Blackpool pier, sticks of rock, donkey rides, ‘kiss me quick’, amusement arcades, carousel animals, candyfloss and ice cream vans.

The first section of the collection was all about sports-luxe with slouchy drawstring dresses, 70s style baseball tops, loose leather shorts, casual raincoats and the most adorable trapeze-line kagool – all in a colour palette of Lemon Sherbet, Wheat Field, Plaster Pink and Nettle Green.

Sam McKnight gave the models’ hair a seductive, volumised, ‘un done’ look (very 60s mod) and the flashes of pastel pink and sea green through the ends suggest a run-in with some candy floss. Make-up by Mathias Van Hooff was fresh and girly and referencing the outdoor weather with rosy cheeks.

The sporty theme continues with pieces in pea or mint green with highlights of powder pink. The cotton drill material gave the clothes a kind of granny-chic look, but the ribbed leggings, cute animal tees and vertiginous doll heels added a more quirky edge.

A key look was the lollipop dress worn over a baseball shirt that reminded me of a retro ice lolly.

One of my favourite looks was the plastic animals print dress with stunning lace overlay. The lace theme continues on a skirt suit and a full-length dress with cropped sleeves (definitely one for Florence Welch) and the animal print is also featured on a blouse.

Unsurprisingly, white and pastels were all over the runway for SS12, but fear not, Mulberry have pulled through with some darkness. The hooded trench coat in Nightshade Blue (worn with a tulle maxi skirt) is a perfect trans-seasonal piece and there is even a dog coat to match.

Another favourite from the Nightshade Blue collection was a slouchy long-sleeved jersey dress with dark blue star sequins.

There was also some seriously covetable evening-wear pieces with all over gems, for the Mulberry girl that’s going to a posh party after her day out on the pier.

Edward Enninful’s undone-luxury styling is an excellent match for Mulberry’s English Eccentric heritage. Mulberry girls are never perfect and polished, they might have a scraped knee or candyfloss in their hair, but that’s part of the charm.

I noticed more subtle metal hardware on the clothes this season. Perhaps this marks a new simplicity, as last season the embellishments were a strong feature of the garments. An antidote to Autumn/Winter 11’s flats and practical shoe boots, the new shoes are stacked and sky-high, to be worn with short socks.

Classic Mulberry bags get an update with cookie-edge detailing on the Bayswater and Lily and adorable teddy rivets on the Alexa and Lily. Also new is the Travel Collection featuring a travel day bag and a travel camera bag in leather, lizard or mixed materials.

The front row at Mulberry was stellar as ever with those in attendance including Kate Moss, Kristen Stewart, Olivia Palermo, Mary Charteris and the incredibly stunning Irina Lazareanu. But the real stars of the show were the ever-increasing number of little Mulberry-clad dogs. Mulberry Crufts next year, anyone?

For more info, visit: www.mulberry.com

Designers, Fashion, London, London Fashion Week

LFW SS12: Jacob Kimmie at Vauxhall Fashion Scout

September 18, 2011 by cheriecity

Jacob Kimmie returns to Vauxhall Fashion Scout with ‘Rhapsody’, inspired by religion and the decorative opulence and restrained sexuality that is entwined. The stunning collection includes sheer monochrome, digital prints, full tulle skirts and of course, his signature bridal pieces.

He began the show with a sense of subtle, dark seduction that would continue through the whole collection. A slim-fitting black midi-length dress with cropped sleeves featured vertical mesh panels that revealed the contours of the body – an intelligent baring of the flesh.

Mesh and tulle full skirts, slim pencil skirts and black or cream palazzo pants were worn with sheer high-collared chiffon blouses with delicate ruffles.

A black satin dress that was reminiscent of those worn at a conservative communion was styled with a simple black veil and diamond crucifix – a striking, slightly eerie image.

The style of this simple dress with a light veil was continued but with an eye-catching dove print on the skirt – another religious symbol.

I couldn’t help noticing that the statuesque, mesmerising black models were sent down the runway in succession wearing garments from the same series.

A minor detail if we were talking about any other designer, but given the influence of Jacob Kimmie’s formative years spent in apartheid South Africa and the political context of his work, it’s possible that this was a conscious statement tied in closely with the concept of the collection.

Long sheer chiffon dresses, mere whispers of fabric, had a ghost-like movement and featured stunning digital prints in shades of black and grey, with one in a palette of soft reds – reminiscent of Ungaro at its best.

Jacob Kimmie’s Spring/Summer 2012 collection is a much more wearable than his earlier intricate, demi-couture laser-cut pieces and the silhouettes are more feminine than his avant-garde Autumn/Winter 2011 collection.

Perhaps this move towards a slightly more commercial, yet still edgy look could make Jacob Kimmie’s collections accessible to a wider audience and gain him the recognition that he truly deserves as one of London’s most talented, technically brilliant designers.

For more info and to see previous collections, visit: www.jacobkimmie.com

All photos by Chérie City.