Jacob Kimmie

Jacob Kimmie returns to Vauxhall Fashion Scout with ‘Rhapsody’, inspired by religion and the decorative opulence and restrained sexuality that is entwined. The stunning collection includes sheer monochrome, digital prints, full tulle skirts and of course, his signature bridal pieces.

He began the show with a sense of subtle, dark seduction that would continue through the whole collection. A slim-fitting black midi-length dress with cropped sleeves featured vertical mesh panels that revealed the contours of the body – an intelligent baring of the flesh.

Mesh and tulle full skirts, slim pencil skirts and black or cream palazzo pants were worn with sheer high-collared chiffon blouses with delicate ruffles.

A black satin dress that was reminiscent of those worn at a conservative communion was styled with a simple black veil and diamond crucifix – a striking, slightly eerie image.

The style of this simple dress with a light veil was continued but with an eye-catching dove print on the skirt – another religious symbol.

I couldn’t help noticing that the statuesque, mesmerising black models were sent down the runway in succession wearing garments from the same series.

A minor detail if we were talking about any other designer, but given the influence of Jacob Kimmie’s formative years spent in apartheid South Africa and the political context of his work, it’s possible that this was a conscious statement tied in closely with the concept of the collection.

Long sheer chiffon dresses, mere whispers of fabric, had a ghost-like movement and featured stunning digital prints in shades of black and grey, with one in a palette of soft reds – reminiscent of Ungaro at its best.

Jacob Kimmie’s Spring/Summer 2012 collection is a much more wearable than his earlier intricate, demi-couture laser-cut pieces and the silhouettes are more feminine than his avant-garde Autumn/Winter 2011 collection.

Perhaps this move towards a slightly more commercial, yet still edgy look could make Jacob Kimmie’s collections accessible to a wider audience and gain him the recognition that he truly deserves as one of London’s most talented, technically brilliant designers.

For more info and to see previous collections, visit: www.jacobkimmie.com

All photos by Chérie City.

Jacob Kimmie’s show was one of the highlights of the Vauxhall Fashion Scout schedule and his collection was certainly the most dramatic, much helped by the spectacular Masonic Temple location.

The self-taught South-African designer’s monochrome A/W 10-11 collection, ‘Pilgrims’ was inspired by modern Aztec spirituality, Inca temples and religious rituals. The delicate ruffles and bright colours of previous seasons have been replaced with a strong, sleek and forceful interpretation of femininity.

The first section showed long, draped dresses with cut-away panels, ‘primitive’ pleats and faux layering – all in a palette of black. With plunging necklines and major leg splits, the dresses take on an unusual ‘seductive Puritan’ image.

Then came short, knife-pleat tunics with sequinned snoods and the most covetable, luxurious chunky knit, hooded coat (labelling it a cardigan seems like a big understatement). Some dresses were shadowed with veils of black tulle, giving the impression of a dark, serious bride.

The next phase was all about cream with pristine, linear wool coats adored with sumptuous feathers. Kimmie combined the ‘pilgrim’ influence with 60s minimalism, showing sober, sculptural dresses with long sleeves and luxurious draping.

The monochrome styling added to the dramatic effect, with the designer adding black cotton or sheer white tights and bare legs to transform the look. The models’ hair was scraped back into a plaited bun (another ‘primitive’ reference) and the make-up was all about heavy, black eyes, flawless skin and nude lips.

The finale saw a model in an intricately embellished silk and tulle bridal dress, carrying….a baby!! I know there’s been a lot of raised eyebrows over press and buyers bringing their kids to London Fashion Week, but this tiny tot actually made its way onto the catwalk.

Carried royally in a bespoke white leather harness, the baby was blissfully unfazed by the tribal drum music and stern-looking models, and seemed to be having a jolly old time.

Unless Jacob Kimmie is answering a calling for designing baby wear, which I very much doubt, I’d say that the presence of le bébé is rather a statement on concepts of pre-marital purity and religious ritual. This was probably lost on most of the crowd, as everyone seemed elated to see such a little cutie pie on the catwalk…and why not?

One of the most striking parts of the collection was the laser-cut leather masks and necklaces. Jacob Kimmie collaborated with leather artist, Ginta Siceva on the accessories and her incredible designs were on display at the LFW exhibition in Somerset House. Leather gloves were supplied by Aspinals of London and after the show, everyone was talking about those chunky knit arm warmers!

Jacob Kimmie’s work seems to be getting more conceptual and his A/W 10-11 collection has a much stronger impact than past seasons. It really is an exceptional collection, as it is simultaneously aggressive and romantic, striking and unified.

Kimmie has simplified certain aspects like colour and ornamentation and concentrated on texture and precision tailoring. By becoming more focused, his garments have adopted a new sophistication and significance.

All photos: JacobKimmie.com

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