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Designers, Fashion, London, London Fashion Week

LFW Day 3: Harriet’s Muse presentation

February 22, 2010 by cheriecity

After spending the afternoon trawling around central London’s H&M stores for some serious Sonia Rykiel shopping, I headed back to Vauxhall Fashion Scout for the the Harriet’s Muse presentation. At first I thought I’d missed all the action, with fashion folk toasting a handful of dresses and a vacant gold backdrop.

About 20 minutes later, Sophie Anderton and two impossibly lithe models took part in a live photo shoot to showcase the garments. Sophie has been a regular on the front row at the Vauxhall Fashion Scout shows this season and is taking an interest in emerging designers.

Despite her ‘train wreck’ reputation, Sophie cut a statuesque, dignified figure in her photo shoot and showed off her amazing body with some angular poses. It seems like Sophie is making a statement this season by trying to shake off that tacky reality TV image and getting back to the industry that made her famous – fashion.

Harriet’s Muse was a wise choice of designer for Sophie to be associated with, as it’s strong, sexy and ultra feminine. The Autumn/Winter 10-11 collection, entitled Armoured & dangerous is inspired by the idea of body armour and the durable, abrasive shell of a beetle.

This is achieved through sharp tailoring, quilted textures and hand-embroidery in metallic thread. Each look had a different silhouette, focusing on pointed, jutted out hips, nipped in waists and volume around the legs.

The make-up was severe femme fatale (ignoring this season’s no mascara trend) and the messy up-dos with statement silver hair pins added to the spiky, insect-inspired aesthetic.

The asymmetric, scale-effect corsets were a great addition to otherwise very simple black party dresses. There appeared to be a few too many black cocktail dresses in somewhat unoriginal shapes that would have benefited from some more inspiring detailing or finishes from the designers.

Similarly, the deep teal silk dresses were beautifully cut, but they needed something extra, other than the lovely embroidered beetles to make them really stand out.

The highlight of the collection was the artfully tailored, belted tulip coat with asymmetric quilted detailing. It evokes 80s Yves Saint Laurent ‘Le Smoking’ and uses sophisticated draping with good use of volume.

This voluminous batwing dress also caught my attention for its minimal, Grecian silhouette. The shoulder bow lifts the garment and stops it becoming too dense. The dress was in deep contrast to the next look with a luxurious black satin corset and full skirt that just screamed seductive pirate girl.

Illustrator Stephen Stone was on hand to sketch the dresses and he even did some portraits of the audience before the show started. The minimal, fluid line drawings with lucid splashes of colour are so beautiful, I’d love to cover my walls in them!

Harriet’s Muse Autumn/Winter 10-11 collection is cohesive and somewhat commercial, with a strong focus on partywear. The use of luxurious fabrics and accomplished tailoring are designers Cheryl and Craig’s strong points and their following is sure to increase with this playful, vampy collection.

Designers, Fashion, London, London Fashion Week

LFW Day 3: Doii Paris at Vauxhall Fashion Scout

February 22, 2010 by cheriecity

It’s the third day into London Fashion Week and the majority of the fashion industy has swapped vertiginous heels and blazers for flat military boots and wool coats. Perhaps the sartorial shift had something to do with swapping Sunday morning in bed with coffee and the Sunday Times Style for a typically delayed show or the pouring rain outside, but the coquettish Doii Paris show quickly lifted everyone’s spirits.

This is the first time that Korean designer Doii Lee is showing at London Fashion Week and her show was arguably one of the prettiest, among a sea of asymmetric panel dresses.

Doii’s Autumn/Winter 10-11 collection was inspired by her favourite Russian fairytale, Babushka, and the folklore influences are present on all of the striking, bohemian pieces.

The first part of the collection was all about bold rose print dresses with translucent sequins, coats trimmed with white faux fur, rose covered headpieces and those shoes! These gorgeous cherry red, platform courts with printed silk ankle-tie were awarded their own post on The Fashion Scout daily blog, as they really are just so stunning!

The models looked impossibly fresh, with tumbling curls, red lips, rosy cheeks and dewy skin – no slicked-back androids there!

The Doii Paris collection reminds me very much of Blumarine’s colour-bursting prints, Moschino’s bold romanticism and KENZO’s crafted, patchwork-inspired detailing.

The purpose of the digital prints is to tell a story and Doii does this with playing cards, winter landscapes, skulls and even bottles of wine. It is a style also seen in Romeo Pires’ Spring/Summer 10 collection, which featured a collage of checkered flags, skeletons and apples.

The second part of the collection focused on an adorable coral, red and turquoise print depicting birds and monsters. The whimsical print featured on very feminine and wearable trench coats, romantic ruffle dresses and a full-length gown.

Next up was more detailed, abstract digital prints in floaty silk dresses and an Eastern kimono-style shift dresses panelled with grey jersey.

Then came the lace – a delicate lace party dress with a structured bodice (very Daisy Lowe), a lace wool two-tone coat and a 50s minimal lace dress with bell sleeves and contrasting printed detailing.

Metallics also featured with this dainty drop-waisted, printed dress with soft-spun gold cuffs and waistband and translucent sequins. Wool coats also got the Doii treatment, with colourful fabric-covered buttons, polka dot lapels, faux fur trims and printed tie-belts.

The show culminated with a model dressed in a black fur and embroidered print coat with an oversized fringed bonnet – very elegant, old world Parisian. I wonder if Doii took inspiration from that other stylish Parisian, the inimitable Diane Pernet, with her signature black veil…

Doii Lee graduated with BA Hons in Fashion Design and Knitwear from Central St Martins in 2002 and soon after started her career with John Galliano in Paris. The next year, she was approached by Antoni Marras, the new art director at KENZO, and worked for KENZO Défilé Studio.

She presented the first collection of Doii Paris during Paris Fashion Week, October 2006 and is now based in London. Doii’s work is so intricate, exquisitely tailored and optimistic, which is a real breath of fresh air this season!

* All photos by Chérie City

Designers, Fashion, London, London Fashion Week

LFW Day Two: Jacob Kimmie at Vauxhall Fashion Scout

February 21, 2010 by cheriecity

Jacob Kimmie’s show was one of the highlights of the Vauxhall Fashion Scout schedule and his collection was certainly the most dramatic, much helped by the spectacular Masonic Temple location.

The self-taught South-African designer’s monochrome A/W 10-11 collection, ‘Pilgrims’ was inspired by modern Aztec spirituality, Inca temples and religious rituals. The delicate ruffles and bright colours of previous seasons have been replaced with a strong, sleek and forceful interpretation of femininity.

The first section showed long, draped dresses with cut-away panels, ‘primitive’ pleats and faux layering – all in a palette of black. With plunging necklines and major leg splits, the dresses take on an unusual ‘seductive Puritan’ image.

Then came short, knife-pleat tunics with sequinned snoods and the most covetable, luxurious chunky knit, hooded coat (labelling it a cardigan seems like a big understatement). Some dresses were shadowed with veils of black tulle, giving the impression of a dark, serious bride.

The next phase was all about cream with pristine, linear wool coats adored with sumptuous feathers. Kimmie combined the ‘pilgrim’ influence with 60s minimalism, showing sober, sculptural dresses with long sleeves and luxurious draping.

The monochrome styling added to the dramatic effect, with the designer adding black cotton or sheer white tights and bare legs to transform the look. The models’ hair was scraped back into a plaited bun (another ‘primitive’ reference) and the make-up was all about heavy, black eyes, flawless skin and nude lips.

The finale saw a model in an intricately embellished silk and tulle bridal dress, carrying….a baby!! I know there’s been a lot of raised eyebrows over press and buyers bringing their kids to London Fashion Week, but this tiny tot actually made its way onto the catwalk.

Carried royally in a bespoke white leather harness, the baby was blissfully unfazed by the tribal drum music and stern-looking models, and seemed to be having a jolly old time.

Unless Jacob Kimmie is answering a calling for designing baby wear, which I very much doubt, I’d say that the presence of le bébé is rather a statement on concepts of pre-marital purity and religious ritual. This was probably lost on most of the crowd, as everyone seemed elated to see such a little cutie pie on the catwalk…and why not?

One of the most striking parts of the collection was the laser-cut leather masks and necklaces. Jacob Kimmie collaborated with leather artist, Ginta Siceva on the accessories and her incredible designs were on display at the LFW exhibition in Somerset House. Leather gloves were supplied by Aspinals of London and after the show, everyone was talking about those chunky knit arm warmers!

Jacob Kimmie’s work seems to be getting more conceptual and his A/W 10-11 collection has a much stronger impact than past seasons. It really is an exceptional collection, as it is simultaneously aggressive and romantic, striking and unified.

Kimmie has simplified certain aspects like colour and ornamentation and concentrated on texture and precision tailoring. By becoming more focused, his garments have adopted a new sophistication and significance.

All photos: JacobKimmie.com

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Designers, Fashion, London, London Fashion Week

LFW Day Two: Iris Van Herpen @ Vauxhall Fashion Scout

February 21, 2010 by cheriecity

Dutch designer Iris Van Herpen really knows how to create an atmosphere, from the cinematic, industrial music down to the models’ other-worldly, meditative expression. The attention to detail is absolutely mesmerising.

Iris Van Herpen left a lasting impression on me from last season’s Blow Presents… show and her Autumn/Winter 10-11 collection, ‘Synesthesia’ succeeded once again in leaving me temporarily speechless.

‘Synesthesia’ describes a state of dual cognitive senses, such as hearing colour, smelling motion or feeling sound and this perplexing condition characterises Iris Van Herpen’s Autumn/Winter 10-11 collection.

The winding knots, twists and volume of the leatherwork creates a trompe l’oeil effect and manipulates the senses.

Iris Van Herpen is a true fashion architect and her sculptural garments are painstakingly intricate and beautifully crafted. She creates those long, slinky strips using metallic leather and continues to work with Ecco Leather.

The Autumn/Winter 10-11 palette centres around bronze, gold, taupe, nude and black and dark purple, with many of the garments creating a two-tone effect. Her dresses externalise the inner bodily composition while exaggerating the female form with voluminous hips, curved busts and nipped in waists.

The accompanying look of the models was lucid and clinical with bleached eyebrows, pale glossy faces and milky lips and eyes. The cloud-like angel hair was styled by James Brown and added to their look of just being hatched from a laboratory pod.

After graduating from ARTEZ Institute of Arts in 2006, Iris Van Herpen assisted Viktor & Rolf and Alexander McQueen. She’s obviously taken inspiration from both designers’ artistic concept mixed with semi-couture detailing.

Iris Van Herpen brings drama, concept and intrigue to London Fashion Week and her shows continue to be among the most fixating, intense and awe-inspiring.

* All photos by: Chérie City

Designers, Fashion, London, London Fashion Week

Gemma Slack A/W 10 presentation @ Vauxhall Fashion Scout

February 19, 2010 by cheriecity

Gemma Slack showed her A/W 2010 collection in a presentation at Vauxhall Fashion Scout, complete with a promotional film and a live performance from Chew Lips.

For Gemma’s third collection, the silver tribal collars and oriental hats of Spring/Summer 10 have been replaced with draped gold chains and intricate facial jewellery – a collaboration between Gemma and Katie Rowland Jewellery called Rowland Vs. Slack.

Black leather panelled and sheer body con dresses continue the super heroine, gothic aesthetic, but they are less structured and certainly more wearable than last season’s rigid silver cone skirts.

For the winter season, Gemma has worked with more texture, using wool and embossed leather.

There are references to Jean-Paul Gaultier’s exaggerated femininity with the integrated suspender belt, structured bustiers and ‘pierced nipples’ holding up a layer of diaphanous chiffon.

Gemma Slack’s woman is part fierce biker girl and part elegant vamp. Many of the pieces are actually based on classic tailoring, like the asymmetric, long black dress and the sculptural tulip skirt.

The Autumn/Winter 10 collection doesn’t make such an intense impact as the last season’s but it’s the attention to details like leather-trimmed hems and the contrast between the fuzzy and smooth fabrics that really appeal.

There’s a bit of Gareth Pugh (Gemma’s one-time mentor) in the cropped jacket with an almost blow-up leather collar and the jumper with studded elbow pads echoes Ashish.

Despite the Catwoman and 80s references, Gemma Slack’s pieces are very modern and simultaneously complement and fetishise the female body. It would have been great to see the garments on female models, as the sheer panels and cut-away sections leave some styling questions. Plus, it would make the clothes look even damn sexier!

All photos: Cherie City

Designers, Events, Fashion, London

Romeo Pires Spring/Summer 10 @ LFW

October 5, 2009 by cheriecity

Romeo Pires’ Spring/Summer 10 show kicked off with cosmos and mojitos, which is always better than queuing in the rain. This is design duo Nicholas Humphrey and Sergio Pires’ second collection at LFW and they picked up where they left off last season with their signature art-inspired graphic prints.

The collection featured diaphanous silk collared shirt dresses and jumpsuits, beginning with monochrome and graduating into colour-bursting prints.

The monochrome pieces showed a more feminine, dreamy take on a tuxedo and skeleton prints were also featured.

The second part of the collection saw graphic colour prints emblazoned with checkerboards, apples, Roy Lichtenstein-inspired tableaux, mystical swirls and geometric blocks.

The majority of the collection was created using silk and includes sheer blouses, tailored shorts and beautifully draped jumpsuits. A perfectly wearable and cohesive Spring/Summer collection if ever there was!