Mulberry is always the most anticipated show of the season, not just because of the celeb quota and Mulberry-clad pooches on the front row, but because it’s a super fun experience from start to end.
This season, Mulberry took us on a mini trip to the seaside and like any good day out, there was pink lemonade and Mulberry ripple ice-cream, served from a Mulberry ice cream van by a troupe of dashing ice cream men.
The red carpet was flanked by over-sized ice cream cones and inside Claridges Ballroom was a menagerie of Mulberry-branded animal balloons that guests could take away at the end of the show.
While many designers at London Fashion Week take reference for Spring/Summer 2012 from exotic climes such as Marrakesh or the poolside parties in Miami, Mykonos and Ibiza, Mulberry’s new collection is inspired by the English seaside – even on the soggiest of days.
Creative director Emma Hill looked back to her memories of trips to the seaside and her reference points were walking along Brighton and Blackpool pier, sticks of rock, donkey rides, ‘kiss me quick’, amusement arcades, carousel animals, candyfloss and ice cream vans.
The first section of the collection was all about sports-luxe with slouchy drawstring dresses, 70s style baseball tops, loose leather shorts, casual raincoats and the most adorable trapeze-line kagool – all in a colour palette of Lemon Sherbet, Wheat Field, Plaster Pink and Nettle Green.
Sam McKnight gave the models’ hair a seductive, volumised, ‘un done’ look (very 60s mod) and the flashes of pastel pink and sea green through the ends suggest a run-in with some candy floss. Make-up by Mathias Van Hooff was fresh and girly and referencing the outdoor weather with rosy cheeks.
The sporty theme continues with pieces in pea or mint green with highlights of powder pink. The cotton drill material gave the clothes a kind of granny-chic look, but the ribbed leggings, cute animal tees and vertiginous doll heels added a more quirky edge.
A key look was the lollipop dress worn over a baseball shirt that reminded me of a retro ice lolly.
One of my favourite looks was the plastic animals print dress with stunning lace overlay. The lace theme continues on a skirt suit and a full-length dress with cropped sleeves (definitely one for Florence Welch) and the animal print is also featured on a blouse.
Unsurprisingly, white and pastels were all over the runway for SS12, but fear not, Mulberry have pulled through with some darkness. The hooded trench coat in Nightshade Blue (worn with a tulle maxi skirt) is a perfect trans-seasonal piece and there is even a dog coat to match.
Another favourite from the Nightshade Blue collection was a slouchy long-sleeved jersey dress with dark blue star sequins.
There was also some seriously covetable evening-wear pieces with all over gems, for the Mulberry girl that’s going to a posh party after her day out on the pier.
Edward Enninful’s undone-luxury styling is an excellent match for Mulberry’s English Eccentric heritage. Mulberry girls are never perfect and polished, they might have a scraped knee or candyfloss in their hair, but that’s part of the charm.
I noticed more subtle metal hardware on the clothes this season. Perhaps this marks a new simplicity, as last season the embellishments were a strong feature of the garments. An antidote to Autumn/Winter 11’s flats and practical shoe boots, the new shoes are stacked and sky-high, to be worn with short socks.
Classic Mulberry bags get an update with cookie-edge detailing on the Bayswater and Lily and adorable teddy rivets on the Alexa and Lily. Also new is the Travel Collection featuring a travel day bag and a travel camera bag in leather, lizard or mixed materials.
The front row at Mulberry was stellar as ever with those in attendance including Kate Moss, Kristen Stewart, Olivia Palermo, Mary Charteris and the incredibly stunning Irina Lazareanu. But the real stars of the show were the ever-increasing number of little Mulberry-clad dogs. Mulberry Crufts next year, anyone?
For more info, visit: www.mulberry.com
