Michael Van der Ham is one of London’s most promising new designers and the anticipation of each collection has brought an international crowd. The BFC are a constant presence at his shows (a good sign of support) and the front row was scattered with the likes of Sarah of Colette, Hamish Bowles, Anna Dello Russo and Lulu Kennedy.
A long way from the crushed velvet and jewel colours of Autumn/Winter 11-12, the new collection is a breezy mix of sheer silk-chiffon and heavier tweed and shimmering brocade in a fresh palette of azure, coral, turquoise, magenta, lavender, navy and lashings of white.
A key influence for Van der Ham was the photographer Joseph Szabo, not in relation to the style or fabric, but the kind of girl he was designing for. A teacher, photographer and author, Szabo is known for capturing the beauty and emerging sexuality of teenage girls (back in the 70s, of course).
Michael Van der Ham’s signature patchwork and collaging of vintage and luxurious fabrics with varying weights and textures is developed further. Many of the dresses feature layering and draping of contrasting fabric, like a sash, and silk skirts have the home-made look of a long silk scarf wrapped around the body and sewn up as a dress (a nod to grunge and Szabos young girls).
The A-line shift dresses and body-skimming draped skirts will be a godsend for Michael Van der Ham devotees who found Autumn/Winter’s crushed velvet pieces unforgiving.
The focus on separates continues with vibrant printed silk shirts in slim-cut trousers in cotton sateen and tailored tweed jackets. It’s a pristine, intelligent look with clean lines – feminine yet with a boyish cut.
The new prints including abstract brush strokes, confetti and feather prints are used lightly and seem to snake around the body in a very subtle way. The sheer t-shirts worn over long printed dresses
The dresses usually steal the show, but the shoes and accessories are so insanely gorgeous, they deserve a mention. I adored the two-tone felt and glittery tweed bags with a Chanel-esque woven fabric and metal chain strap.
I immediately zoomed in on the exquisite printed fabric t-bar heels and with good reason too – they were the work of Christian Louboutin! The shoes come in six variations of Michael’s collage prints and are sure to be major sellers.
Matthew Stone created a very cool 90s-inspired show soundtrack and Luke Hersheson gave the models girly grunge-luxe hair that was lightly tousled and centre-parted. The sparkling blue and lavender eye make-up and creamy, lucid skin by M.A.C gave the models a youthful radiance that was central to the look.
Michael Van der Ham’s SS12 collection could be his most commercially successful yet, as the collection is so diverse and democratic. Whether it’s fine tailoring, a multi-fabricated statement dress or a daytime print dress, Michael Van der Ham is the one to invest in for the next season.
For more info, visit: www.michaelvanderham.com
