I’ve often envied New Yorkers who are surrounded by a wealth of delis and able to call a local one their own. The joy of wolfing down a sandwich packed full of hot cured meat at the counter, however, is now a lot closer to home at Monty’s Deli, the east London Jewish deli that opened just last year.
Owner Mark Ogus developed a loyal following on the London’s street food scene at Maltby Street Market and Bermondsey Arch before setting up his dream deli in an old Hoxton bakery with chef Owen Barratt. Named after Mark’s grandfather Monty, this friendly neighbourhood deli is all about authentic, time-honoured Jewish soul food, with more than a dash of Shoreditch cool.
Everything is made from scratch at Monty’s, including the house-cured meats, the boiled-then-baked bagels, meticulously-plaited chocolate babka and even mustard. That’s what makes it particularly special, leading those ‘in the know’ to compare it to New York’s famous Katz’s Deli, 2nd Ave Deli and Canter’s in LA.
Like many Londoners, Brick Lane’s Beigel Bake is my go-to spot for an overflowing salt beef bagel, however there are some gaps in my knowledge of Jewish cuisine. I was keen to try latkes, real-deal chicken soup with matzah balls and dispell the notion that I don’t like pastrami – all of which were ticked off the list in one big brunch.
Monty’s Deli is best-known for its signature sandwiches, including a Reuben, Mensch or Meshuggener, however weekend brunch brings more of a twist to the classics. Eggs feature prominently, as well as French toast, bagel boards and a loaded hot dog.
We started with a bowl of Chicken soup, which was comforting with a meaty, schmaltzy flavour and much less salt than I’d expected. Slow-cooked over two days, the soup was filled with springy yet dense kneidlach made with matzah meal, short silken noodles and chunky carrot, topped with fresh dill. You can also order the Big soup, which is served in a tureen and can easily feed four.
Salt beef, latkes and eggs was a great brunch all-rounder. The house-cured salt beef was flaky, moist and just the right side of fatty with an aromatic juniper flavour. The generously-sized latkes had a golden, crunchy exterior with a soft shredded potato centre and they went perfectly with the orange-yolk free-range eggs and light coleslaw with a drizzle of hot sauce.
Another hit was a New York brunch staple – Pastrami egg & cheese. The pastrami was tender with a smoky, peppery flavour and the egg was fluffy with an oozing centre, all packed inside a soft, glazed challah bun and finished nicely with a slice of Swiss cheese and a slick of punchy mustard. It was so satisfying and flavourful and turned out to be my unexpected favourite dish.
We washed everything down with some really good Iced teas packed with lemon and fresh mint. Of course, it would be mad to leave without a bag of bagels from the take-out counter, as well as slices of the most fantastic babka, plaited with high-quality dark chocolate.
Monty’s Deli is the kind of place that leaves you planning your next visit, whether it’s for an enormous Reuben special or Baked cheesecake and filter coffee. In fact, it will soon be even easier to get your hands on one of their bagels, as Monty’s Deli is set to expand across London and eventually nationwide, following a successful crowd-funding campaign. Now that’s something to be excited about!
All photos by Cherie City
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