When I was invited to visit Costa Navarino a few weeks ago, I never imagined that it would feel so familiar, especially since it was my first time in Greece.
The reason why? This stunning luxury resort in the rural southwest Peloponnese was the location for Richard Linklater’s Before Midnight – the final volume of the spontaneous Euro love trilogy starring Ethan Hawke and Julie Delpy. The entire crew stayed at Costa Navarino and scenes were shot across the picturesque Messinian countryside, including the photogenic town of Pylos.
While Jesse and Celine’s Greek vacation was peppered with marital tension and one explosive hotel room showdown, they still couldn’t help but be charmed by the beauty of the region.
Costa Navarino is the vision of the late Captain Vassilis Constantakopoulos, a Messinia-born shipping magnate who wished to give back to the region through sustainable tourism (it remains a family affair with his sons continuing the ambitious development).
The Resort
The expansive Navarino Dunes area comprises a golf course, an untouched beach and two five star hotels managed by Starwood Hotels and Resorts. The Westin is tailored to families while The Romanos, a Luxury Collection Resort, offers romantic hideaway villas for couples.
Costa Navarino is all about understated elegance and tends to attract a chic, mostly European crowd. It’s an attractive haven for those after a sophisticated, peaceful getaway and the ambiance is suitably chilled out.
It’s also an eco resort with a number of green initiatives to promote sustainability in the region, which guests can learn more about at the innovative on-site Navarino Natura Hall.
Infinity Room
My home for three nights was an Infinity Room at The Romanos with its own individual infinity pool complete with a terrace and backdrop of lush greenery for plenty of privacy. I was really wowed by this magnificent outside view and loved that it could be seen both from the divine king-size bed and from the stone bathtub.
The spacious room was well-appointed in a palette of cream, blue and dark wood, with a plush cream sofa and coffee table, marble desk, large TV, double wardrobe and complimentary bottles of mineral water. The marble bathroom had a fantastic walk-in shower, bathtub, double sink and two full sets of exclusive products from the resort’s Anazoe Spa.
Turndown
At turndown each evening, I was provided with more complimentary bottled water and packets of Navarino Icons Pasteli (an ancient Greek snack made with sesame seeds and honey). The resort’s own food, arts and ceramics brand Navarino Icons offers gourmet Greek delicacies and its products are available across the region (even at the airport) and internationally at Dean & Deluca and Harrods.
The Agora
The Romanos villas are just a short walk from the agora which houses the hotel’s splendid marble lobby, designed to reflect the architecture and textiles of the region. We met here each morning and lounged on the chic white chaise-longues before heading out for the day’s activities.
Sailing Around Navarino Bay
The first morning at the resort was a chilled one with a relaxing sail around Navarino Bay onboard the majestic Navarino Sea. Our captain regaled us with tales from the historic Battle of Navarino as we cruised the waves, soaked up the sun and swam in the sea. We then headed back for a typical lunch of Greek salad, grilled talagani cheese, souvlaki and baklava outdoors at Souvlakerie.
Anazoe Spa
There’s nothing better after taking a flight than a good massage to get you feeling like yourself again. Anazoe Spa must be seen to believed – it’s an enormous temple of well-being with stylish interiors and a calming atmosphere. It’s worth arriving an hour ahead of your treatment to unwind in the sauna, herbal steam room and tropical showers and float around the whirlpool and saltwater jacuzzi.
Anazoe Spa boasts a varied spa menu and the speciality treatments are based on health and beauty practices of ancient Greece. I chose one of the signature massage treatments – Melisseus, the Spirit of Honey (5o minutes). My intuitive therapist Denise gave me a blissful full body massage and applied a hot honey compress to my back to soften and hydrate my skin.
Things To Do
Since we had a few hours of free time before dinner at Flame restaurant, I enjoyed a bit of pool time and explored the resort with a pot of cookies and cream from the ice cream parlour in hand (every sunny trip requires at least one ice cream).
There’s just so much to do at Costa Navarino, whatever your desired pace may be. If you’re active and sporty, discover the rural Messinian terrain with a bike ride, zip across the sea with exhilarating water sports or test your golf skills on the impressive 18-hole course.
Or to take it a little easier, you can shop for espadrilles and beach bags at the resort’s on-site boutiques, hit the beach, lounge by the outdoor swimming pools, learn how to make traditional Greek specialities with a cookery class (a real highlight of our trip) or channel Before Midnight’s Jesse and Celine by reflectling on the meaning of life with a hosted philosophy walk through the olive groves.
It’s also pretty cool being a kid at Costa Navarino, as young VIPs have their own specially designed hubs – Cocoon for babies and toddlers and SandCastle for children aged from four to twelve years old. Kids can enjoy the indoor basketball courts, ten-pin bowling at The Diner, an indoor cinema and best of all, the Aqua Park complete with three slides and play pools.
While Costa Navarino has everything on the doorstep, there’s no need to be confined to the resort. In fact, guests are encouraged to explore the region and complimentary use of a BMW for up to three hours ensures it’s done in style.
Pylos
The nearby town of Pylos is a must-see destination, with its pretty harbour, bright blue tavernas, local boutiques and terrace cafes in the main square where you could easily spend a few lazy hours. It’s also home to the well-preserved New Navarino Fortress, originally built by the Ottoman Turks in 1573.
Voidokilia Beach
I highly recommend driving to the beautifully rugged and untouched Voidokilia Beach – there are no sunbeds, bars or shops, just golden powdered sand and crystal clear waters.
On the way back, stop at the small town of Gialova for a seafood lunch or watch the sun go down over coffee and Greek spoon sweets on the charming promenade. It’s a very pretty town with stylish cafes and even a hipster ice cream shop called Mr Yogie – definitely worth a visit.
How to get there
Of course, accessing such a remote haven as Costa Navarino takes a little dedication. We travelled to Athens very comfortably with Aegean Airlines and from there it was a three and a half hour private transfer to the resort – a journey that is more enjoyable during the day since the route is framed by spectacular scenery.
Kalamata Airport is much closer (and serviced by Aegean Airlines during peak period), but the flight times were not on our side at this time. Either way, your patience will be richly rewarded as soon as you reach Costa Navarino and are welcomed with a chilled pomegranate and raspberry juice.
Costa Navarino is a truly magical resort, bridging luxury comforts with local character. It’s the perfect retreat for a stylish and rejuvenating stay in the beautiful Greek Peloponnese.
Rates at the two hotels at Navarino Dunes start from: The Westin Resort Costa Navarino: from €220, and The Romanos, a Luxury Collection Resort from €390. To book and for further information visit www.costanavarino.com
For further information on Anazoe Spa and the signature treatments available please visit www.anazoespa.com
Aegean Airlines offers daily flights from London Heathrow and London Gatwick to Athens. For more information please visit www.aegeanair.com
Chérie City was a guest of Costa Navarino
Photos by Chérie City and Costa Navarino
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