It’s all GO at London Fashion Week and I’ve made it my mission to check out all of the best new off-schedule designers that are soon to be the next Marios, Emilio or Louise – Gray or Goldin, both pretty fab in my opinion!
I missed the ioannisdimitrousis show on the first day, as I was still working away – freelancers can’t make such outrageous demands, y’know. But from what I’ve seen, his Spring/Summer 10 collection, he has continued his fishnet knits and added disc sequins, flower embellishments and contrasting panels, aka stripes. But he has really embraced the spirit of Spring with his fresh take on monochrome and delicate silver and the collection features cropped tuxedo jackets, romantic button-down skirts, checked shirts and modified summer dresses. There’s something Chanel Cruise collection about this dress – I love it!
So, my first show of the season was Blow PR’s catwalk show at Royal Festival Hall. Blow always pick up on the most imaginative emerging designers and I was just dying to see Charlie Le Mindu’s hair sculptures in ‘real life’.
First up was a quick guest appearance from Joe, of Blue Peter fame (I’m sorry, I don’t know who he is) modelling… some clothes – best ask someone else about that one.
Charlie Le Mindu opened the show with an amazing Eiffel tower headpiece and from there we had hair-covered giant lips (think a Lulu Guinness purse after a blowdry), a plaited hair burka, hair-covered sunglasses and . There was even a tufty fringe of hair on the amazing Tuk for Charlie Le Mindu brothel creeps! Kap Bambino were responsible for the amazing soundtrack and I know that L7 was definitely played, but I forget what else, as I was so astounded by the models.
Next up was Gemma Slack with her superheroine-inspired second collection of badass leather, proper studs and metal armour plates. Cones play a massive part in the collection, from Gaultier-style cone bra tops (complete with pierced nipples) and circular skirts to a futurist metal e-collar and oriental hats.
Like the Motley Crue soundtrack would suggest, her vision comes from 80s hair-metal girls and fetishised comic book characters. Gemma’s girl is unapologetically sexual and powerful and of course has an incredible cutaway bikini for lounging ’round the pool on Sunset Strip…jealous, moi?
Gemma spent two years as an apprentice to Gareth Pugh and it’s clear that the experience has made her into a bit of a perfectionist, creating really well-formed, striking pieces. I could go on about her for ages, but I’ll move on…
Up next was Lina Osterman with a sophisticated, gothic and well-tailored collection. It was her first catwalk show since graduating from Central St Martins and it also showcased her new jewellery collection featuring chunky silver rings and dirty metal chains.
Like many Swedish designers, Lina is more interested in design than colour and used a palette of black, navy and a momentary flash of white. The collection features cropped blazers, belted coats, skin-tight jeans with studded knee-pad details. Lina has developed a darker edge from the simple deconstruction aesthetic of her first label Pudel and the faces half covered with net and bowl cuts (styling by Robbie Spencer) add a subdued goth rock element.
Iris Van Herpen finished the show with an exquisite, fluid and complex collection. Iris explores the movement of the human body, focusing on waves and radiations surrounding it. She interprets how these lines may appear through the incredible manipulation of leather and ponders a future where we can actually see them.
This would explain the great energy of the pieces, from endless spirals and almost tribal marks to uniformly abbrasive ‘metal shavings’. Iris also referenced Burmese ornamental neck rings, metal animal skulls and the concept of waves attacking and protecting the body. The beige and gold dress was breathtakingly detailed and the oil-slick black pieces really expressed Iris’ rather fearful vision of the future.
So, after such a great and varied show, I went to check out what was going on at Blow PR Presents…Juniors downstairs. The kids were having a blast, getting their hair and make-up done, putting together their own outfits even crazier than those in the East End and being snapped by We Are Photogirls. Future fashionistas in the making, for sure!
Later on, I hit the exhibition, drank some Chambord and champagne in the media lounge and caught up with some of the ELLEuk.com girls of past and present taking street style pics and making good use of the Toni & Guy Blow-Out Bar.
Next stop, Steve J and Yoni P presentation followed by the Bryce d’Anice Aime show…more to follow!
Fashion folk and spottings: V.V Brown, Diane Pernet, Kate Nash, Paloma Faith, Katie Jane Garside, Caryn Franklin, Brix Smith-Start, Portia Freeman, Michael Tempranillo, Dani Stahl, Johnny Make-up, Jameela Jamil, Tommy Ton, Angela Buttolph.
All images (expect ioannisdimitrousis) by Neily Alimohamadi/cheriecity